Anyway, what you can do on a wooden edge is not important.
Quote from: jwi on January 24, 2017, 07:51:15 amLast three-four months I've done all my hangboarding using the open crimp and I've seen a small improvement on small holds for the first time in years. YMMVInteresting, you've got better gains on small holds from open crimp training compared to half crimp training?
Last three-four months I've done all my hangboarding using the open crimp and I've seen a small improvement on small holds for the first time in years. YMMV
Last three-four months I've done all my hangboarding using the half crimp and I've seen a small improvement on small holds for the first time in years. YMMV
Quote from: jwi on January 24, 2017, 07:51:15 amAnyway, what you can do on a wooden edge is not important.Don't let Nibs hear you say that!
I think it's because the proper half crimp - fingers at 90 degrees, depending on relative length of pinky - has the greatest crossover effect on both full crimp and dragging. It stresses the pulleys but without creating acute angles and mechanical locks (thumb over) as the full crimp, and it also stresses the tendons like in a dragging prehension. Moreover, the half crimp is the less favourable angle, so it's the most beneficial to train.
Luke - yeah man that must put you at the "weaker" end of the spectrum. That's not really a bad thing though cos for a given grade, weaker must surely mean more talented. Probably shows my biases but I reckon strength must be loads more easy to train than talent...
Really interested in this topic.... It's really had a noticiable difference on bouldering / sport cruxs.
One strange thing I've noticed is that I climbed 7A+ 3 years ago and my grades have barely budged since then. I've never really found myself getting that much stronger from "just going climbing" which I have done plenty of over the years. I did a lot of board climbing last year which I reckon helped me break my grade plateau last year but finger strength didn't improve much, if at all.
would generally 'expect' to do a 7A or 7A+ in a session season...
no-one has yet mentioned sloper strength yet either.. I'm amazed that no-one has any max hang numbers on that (I can do the 35's with +20kg).. possibly of more use for the scrittle..
To add to this, word on the street is the average strength of a 7c sport climber/7B boulder is being able to hang 85-90% of body weight on a 20mm edge one armed. Which to me would be taking off 7- 11kg. I reckon I'd need way more assistance than that. Something to work towards...
Quote from: tomtom on January 24, 2017, 01:47:15 pmwould generally 'expect' to do a 7A or 7A+ in a session season... sorted
Question for you then SF, what sort of boulder grades/improvement are you seeing with this newly honed 1/2 crimp strength?
is this for 5 seconds?
Quote from: nai on January 24, 2017, 01:56:03 pmQuote from: tomtom on January 24, 2017, 01:47:15 pmwould generally 'expect' to do a 7A or 7A+ in a session season... sorted Pah. Got my first new 7A+ of the year on Sunday... :p
Quote from: 36chambers on January 24, 2017, 01:59:43 pmis this for 5 seconds?Yeah. Lattice assessment hangs are 5 seconds. Not sure they have to be 1/2 crimp though. My notes from Toms TrainingBeta podcast:7B+ = 95%8A/+ = 100-110%
Pah...How many times to you hit a flat 20mm edge that is horizontal...? Ever? .
Quote from: tomtom on January 24, 2017, 01:47:15 pmPah...How many times to you hit a flat 20mm edge that is horizontal...? Ever? .Prettysure you've just described the finish "jug" on BSD...
Not sure I've ever jumped sideways and up to a hold on my BM before
Quote from: Murph on January 24, 2017, 02:26:03 pm7B+ = 95%8A/+ = 100-110%Looks like my right hand is in the 8A/+ range and my left is ~7B+. That coincides quite nicely with my actual climbing ability.
7B+ = 95%8A/+ = 100-110%