[dave]

Check it out, trying to plan ahead to Summer 2017. Wife come down with chronic vestibular neuronitis, so short of a drastic recovery in the next couple of months we can't bank on anything involving boats, planes, or the hassle of going abroad. So we're looking at NW Scotland.

Keen to find somewhere as a decent base/s for a week or two up there with wife and kids. Beaches, scenery, photography, stuff to do (not necessarily "attractions") but also some bouldering. Will be up there end July/early August, so prime midge season, so I'm mainly thinking places that catch a bit of breeze, and trying to find a base within striking distance of good bouldering.

Obviously certain places spring to mind, Torridon, Reiff, Ardmair and whatnot. Keen to avoid shit that'll be midge death, waterlogged landings, shite rock, stuff needing tons of pads etc. I must admit Reiff looks great, hard to tell from the web how well documented it is, how spread out etc. As any parent knows time may be at a premium for climbing windows. Is Ullapool a decent base? Lochinver? Any knowledge gladly received.

There's always Skye too, but my limited experience of bouldering there made me think the bouldering is a poor second to the main event, and being in the shadow of the ridge but probably unable to get up there might kill me.

[Johnny Brown]

So a ferry is out but not a massive drive? I'd go to the Outer Hebrides, but there's a ferry obvs.

[bigtuboflard]

I'd suggest Tiree for an all round family holiday but not one necessarily with loads of bouldering, though it really depends if you want somewhere which is mainly a family holiday with the odd option of a spot of bouldering on an afternoon here and there, or, somewhere with extensive bouldering options and then try and find somewhere nearby which ticks most of the remaining boxes.

As an island, its superb (well, in my opinion anyway), no midges to speak of as generally breezy, lots of wildlife (seals a plenty, otters, even orcas), some of the best beaches in the UK, lots of water based sporting options (SUP, windsurf, kitesurf, just surf). Just don't expect a prime bouldering venue...

Also, does really depend on what Johnny B says, are long car journeys in but long ferry journeys out? As its about 4 hours on the ferry there from Oban.

[Johnny Brown]

Ah, labyrinthitis. There is some previous discussion in the forum.

[fatneck]

Ah, labyrinthitis. There is some previous discussion in the forum

Indeed (although I couldn't find it), my missus is now nearly fully better but it was proper grim for a while - feel free to PM for more info Dave...

[SA Chris]

Dave, been round that area a lot, got loads of options, but as first option of things to do with wife, binlids etc, then Ullapool would be a good choice. We had a great week at a cottage near Rhue lighthouse, great views to summer isles, up Loch Broom, across to An Teallach.

There is some bouldering in walking distance and on ardmair beach, reiff in the woods about 20 min drive, Reiff an hour. Ullapool has loads of walks, boat trips, swimming pool, play park, tons of eating options from caffs to fine dining. Some goods jeeptrack cycling if you want to take bikes plus can hire row boats etc down at campsite at Ardmair. The Ullapool bouldering guide lists tons of options I never explored.

Alternatively

[dave]

Reminder folks, a ferry is a boat too. Shitload of water underneath it is the clue there.

Ah, labyrinthitis. There is some previous discussion in the forum.

It's not labyrinthitis, vaguely similar type of thing but distinctly different.

Cheers for the Ullapool knowledge Chris, it's sounding like a decent bet at the minute. Another thing going for it is that going up via Inverness it looks actually a shorter drive than Skye, despite being a shitload further north.

[Johnny Brown]

Wikipedia does not agree with you.

[dave]

Sucks to be wikipedia right now. Both terms often used incorrectly to describe anything with broadly similar diagnosis, but labyrinthitis is supposed to be inflammation of the labyrinth (cochlea & vestibule) whereas vestibular neuronitis is infection/damage to the vestibular nerve. Obviously.

[GazM]

I'd second Chris on the Ullapool shout Dave - it probably get better weather than Skye too. Plenty of pleasant walking, from coastal bimbling to munro bashing.  Easy access to sandy beaches up Lochinver way and plenty of good bouldering. Ardmair beach is a very family-friendly bouldering spot but Reiff in the Woods is probably a better venue.  Stuff at Reiff is good too but a bit more spread out. IanT is probaby the best to give you local beta, he frequents UKB but him and Lawrence work in Northwest Outdoors so just drop in for a chat if you're about.

[dave]

Anyone know where this is? Looks Reiff-ish.

[tomtom]

Cool, Craig-y-longridge by the sea

If you go there and film, please try and have less than 2:45 of 'getting to the crag' shizzle before any climbing

[dave]

It'll all be eyepopping spherical fisheye drone footage, timelapses, and distracting slider shots n shit.

[Coops_13]

Don't go to Reiff too late in the summer, it is basically one big big on a peninsula. Worst midges I've ever had...

[dave]

Don't know what a "big big" is, but we'd be there end July/early Aug, non negotiable.

[Johnny Brown]

but labyrinthitis is supposed to be inflammation of the labyrinth (cochlea & vestibule) whereas vestibular neuronitis is infection/damage to the vestibular nerve. Obviously.

Well the Vestibular disorders association says:

"Neuritis (inflammation of the nerve) affects the branch associated with balance, resulting in dizziness or vertigo but no change in hearing. The term neuronitis (damage to the sensory neurons of the vestibular ganglion) is also used.

Labyrinthitis (inflammation of the labyrinth) occurs when an infection affects both branches of the vestibulo-cochlear nerve, resulting in hearing changes as well as dizziness or vertigo."

So effectively neuritis is a subset of labyrinthitis. Not 'vaguely similar' as you put it. The more important diagnosis seems to be whether the root cause is viral (usual supposition) or bacterial). Obviously I'm not here to dick wave about my medical googling ability; I have some experience. Ellie has suffered from Labyrinthitis for years, as has Falling Down (chronic I believe). El Mocho was struck down with it severely (literally couldn't walk) a week before our Bugaboos trip. He got some strong drugs, we delayed our transatlantic flights by a week, and he complained of of finding onsighting 5.12 a bit harder than usual. People live with and around this. Writing off boats and planes six months up front seems extreme given the information you've provided. FD particularly might have some advice for you. Good luck with it anyway it seems minging.

[Fiend]

Faaaark. Didn't see this was about Scotland not like Nova Scotia.

First up some random shit I sent to my brother about a general Scotland tour:

Scotland West Coast tour:

I suggest:

Glasgow > Crianlarich > Glen Coe > Oban > ferry to Craignure (Mull) > Fionnphort > Tobermory > ferry to Lochaline or Kilchoan > Fort William > Mallaig > ferry to Armadale (Skye) > Sligachan > Dunvegan > Portree > Kyle Of Lochalsh > Applecross > Torridon > Gairloch > Ullapool > Scourie > Durness > Tongue > (optional detour to Thurso/Orkney) >Inverness > home.

This will basically take you around the most awesome scenery and locations around, skipping over some of the lesser bits and without much doubling back. There's a bit of zig-zagging but it's for a reason, to get the best out of the area. Have a look on a map and it should all make sense. I haven't given details for all the places below as they are either obvious or easily Googled. Town-wise Ullapool is very pleasant, Tobermory is quite cute, and Portree seems nice, Fort William and Oban less so.

Views & Walks:

1 - The Lost Valley, Glen Coe
Glen Coe is pretty spectacular in itself, and this 40 minute stroll up a steep path and river gorge leads to a delightful hanging valley.
2 - Erraid, Mull
Drive on past Fidden, park at the road end farm, walk down the track and across tidal sands to Erraid. Walk south-west for 20 minutes and you'll reach one of the most beautiful hidden beaches anywhere. Picnic and swim.
3 - Steall Bridge, Glen Nevis
Drive into Glen Nevis and to the road end. Park and walk 15 minutes up the gorge path to pop out into a stunning surprise meadow and waterfall. Picnic and explore.
4 - Neist Point, Dunvegan
Drive out from Dunvegan. When the road stops, you've reached the furthest Westerly point you can drive to in Scotland! The panorama of 100 miles of Outer Hebrides with the lighthouse in front is unmissable, and yes I have climbed the big rock spire .
5 - Old Man Of Storr
Well worth a walk up to this dramatic rock spire amongst a bizarre otherwordly landscape.
6 - Diabeg / Torridon
Just a beautiful place to be. Drive through Torridon hamlet towards Diabeg and partway along you get an amazing viewpoint back up Loch Torridon. Continue to Diabeg for a lovely wee hamlet there.
7 - View down Loch Maree
Worth a 5 minute detour up from Kinlochewe to the viewpoint near the top of the hill en-route to Achnasheen.
8 - Corrieshalloch Gorge, Braemore Junction
A splendid hidden gorge and waterfall. Really rather good.
9 - Boat trip, Ullapool
The Ullapool area is stunning in itself, taking a boat trip out around the islands puts the magnificent coastline in even better perspective.
10 - Lochinver
Detour around beneath Stac Pollaidh and Suiliven to see some of the most beautiful mountainscapes around.
11 - Sandwood Bay, Kinlochbervie
Park near Sheigra, and follow a well-used track for 5 miles to the epic beach at Sandwood Bay. Camp out or just paddle. And yes I did climb the stack
12 - Talmine Beach, Tongue
The whole North Coast has beautiful beaches, but this one has cows that roam on it too. What will Bamba think?

Campsites:

1 - Fidden, Mull
Normal, lovely campsite at the very end of Mull. Very spacious and well exposed to avoid midges, stunning sunsets.
2- Achintee Farm hostel, Glen Nevis
Not a campsite but if you fancy a bit of luxury this peaceful B&B / hostel is nice and friendly.
3 - Sligachan, Skye
A useful and scenic campsite with an apparently good pub nearby. Also one of the midgiest sites in Scotland along with Torridon. Dunvegan campsite or wild camping at Neist are alternatives.
4 - Torridon
A proper campsite with flat ground, showers, toilets, all for the bonus price of completely free. Beware midges.
5 - Loch Maree wild camp
Drive down the little track to the North West end of Loch Maree. Skim, swim, and sleep.
6 - Gruinard Bay wild camp
En-route from Gairloch to Braemore Junction. Look for the excellent expansive beach. Gets a little bit of traffic but convenient and great views.
7 - Ardmair
A normal campsite in an exceptionally nice bay with mountain backdrops and a good pebble beach nearby.
8 - Scourie
A normal campsite above a beautiful bay that cleverly has lots of flat tiers so everyone gets a sea-view.
9 - Sheigra semi-wild camp
Drive down to Sheigra just past the Sandwood Bay parking. Just past the cemetery is well-used camping in guess what another delightful bay.

Food & drink:

1 - The Drover's Arms
Touristy but quirky and friendly, honest pub food and they've got a genuine stuffed haggis in the entranceway.
2 - The Clachaig, Glen Coe
I've only been once but food was nice, it's got a good reputation and can be busy.
3 - Ninth Wave Restaurant, Fhionnphort
I haven't been but I've seen it advertised and it looks really nice posh cuisine, even good enough for Mum!
4 - The Nevis Inn, Glen Nevis
Pretty much the opposite to the above - a single barn room full of benches and scruffy walkers. As close as it gets to an old skool Viking vibe, and pretty good pub food.
5 - The Granary, Portree
A cafe restaurant in the square in Portree. I've only been once but we had a marvellous fish lunch - crispy baby squid and trio of smoked fish salad were pretty much flawless.
6 - Ben Damph, Torridon
A good pub adjoining the Torridon Hotel, sort of gastro-pub food and rather nice.
7 - Mountain Coffee Company, Gairloch
Good coffee, even better cakes, and a nice hippy vibe inside. The scones are so big they have their own gravitational field and could last you all day.
8 - Chinese takeaway, Gairloch
I've been twice. It's good. Not as good as a proper authentic restaurant but definitely a cut above the Glasgow average.
9 - Old Gairloch Inn, Gairloch
Good normal pub food and generally a pleasant place.
10 - Ceilidh Place, Ullapool
More upmarket gastro-pub food, usually very good. Nice breakfasts too.
11 - Curry house, Ullapool
Like the Chinese, a pleasant surprise to get good quality exotic food this far North. Definitely worth it if you fancy curry.
12 - Cocoa Mountain, Durness
Enough chocolates to kill a horse. Go in hungry, come out fat (and poor!). Good coffee too.

Warnings:

Midges:
A true West Coast midge attack can't be described or even imagined, but only experienced (and *possibly* survived). They can be appallingly bad in summer, and are at their worst on still, cloudy days especially during the evening. Wind is absolutely crucial, any breeze about 5-10mph will force them to hide. Strong sunlight can also put them off. Keep checking the weather for the wind direction and make sure your camping is exposed to it. Take Mosi Guard / Deet / Smidge and a midge headnet if needed.

Ticks:
They can bad in areas with lots of ferns, heather and long grass, but are not usually a problem on trails, tracks, or beaches. Wear long trousers or socks, check your legs and undercarriage after walking through vegetation. Use a pair of tweezers or a scalpel to get them off, do not twist or squeeze them as that can leave bits behind. Better to lose a bit of skin than have a bit of tick left in you.

Weather:
The West Coast of Scotland is by far the wettest place in the entire United Kingdom, and this applies during summer too. Later in August and especially into September it should be better but it can be a complete washout too. The coastal fringes can escape the worst of it and be better than the mountains inland (e.g. Gairloch area can be much better than Fort William). Again keep eye on the forecast. If the weather is coming from the West, the East of Scotland is usually much drier but also much less interesting. Around all of the West Coast tour there are hostels and BnBs available if you need to dry out, although very little indoor activities of interest.

Highlighted some shizzle fo yo. In particular midges, fucking horrendous as you'd expect but with the right wind you'll be fine and guess what somewhere exposed right out on a peninsula gets that wind. (I've climbed at Loch Tollie Crags, in the trees, in mid-summer, on a grey day, and got away with it with the breeze).

Boulderizzle. The whole area has lots of options,being based in Ullapool would be good, you have civilisation there, can head North to boulder and South to Gairloch for more scenery etc. Reiff is great, Reiff In The Woods is good (and exposed enough), Ardmair Beach is decent but a lovely convenient spot to be with the family. Torridon OBVZ, Ardmair Crag for decent "base of the crag" stuff, Inchbae on the way has some hidden gems.

That does indeed look like Reiff, not sure where though, gut instinct says far end of the peninsula tho?? Here's some more stuff (sorry for abrupt start to music on first one):

[SA Chris]

Anyone know where this is? Looks Reiff-ish.

I might be stating the obvious, but near Stoer lighthouse? If anyone know Ian Taylor will

[dave]

Anyone know where this is? Looks Reiff-ish.

I might be stating the obvious, but near Stoer lighthouse? If anyone know Ian Taylor will

Yeah sounds like it could be.

[GazM]

Yeah, it's up at Stoer.  I've never been so not sure exactly where, but it looks beautiful.

[dave]

Obviously I'm not here to dick wave about my medical googling ability;

Perish the thought.

I should have realised that this is 2016, so the professional opinion of experts can't compete with a quick google.

[Coops_13]

Don't know what a "big big" is, but we'd be there end July/early Aug, non negotiable.

Aha that'd be big bog! Ok, pack the midgey repellent and pray for wind if you're going to Reiff.

[dave]

Nice one. Looks like potential for sitters to those steeper ones at Reiff?

[Fiend]

Yup very likely but why ruin a great problem, this isn't the Peaks you know 

There's a lot more stuff and more harder, steeper stuff around too. Dan V's development on the Bouldering Cliff has some spectacular, if high, problems, although I think the hardest one is a sitter on overhanging smears 

[dave]

Do you not have 10ft square bits of crag up there with dozens of numbered polished holds to do eliminates on? I'm not driving up there for nothing. Get your act together Scotland.