[Nibile]

Is everyone on holidays?

Power Club

Mon - board climbing, very very close to project. Three goes, always stuck the crux, then fell off completely exhausted. Was very tired though before starting. One of the most phisically intense problems I've ever set. Absolutely brilliant, climbs so well.
Tue - rest.
Wed - board climbing. Tired but still good goes on project.
Thu - climbing class.
Fri - board climbing. Even closer on project. Lots of volume, really cool session with friends.
Sat - rest.
Sun - board climbing, DID MY PROJECT! Took a while, set it and started trying it last Winter, then obviously sacked it through the whole Summer, then it took a couple of months during this Autumn and this entire week of attempts. Basked in glory and cut the session short after it. Brilliant. So satisfied.

Very glad that the week dedicated to just trying the project paid off. Very thin line though, the problem was desperate. Success and failure were separated by almost unnoticeable factors. Played all my cards, from the dehumidifier to Antihydral, from perfectly sanding the rubber of my shoes to resisting the urge of a weights or boxing bag session.
All worth it.

[Duma]

Sun - board climbing, DID MY PROJECT! Took a while, set it and started trying it last Winter, then obviously sacked it through the whole Summer, then it took a couple of months during this Autumn and this entire week of attempts. Basked in glory and cut the session short after it. Brilliant. So satisfied.

Nice one Lore

[tommytwotone]

I thought the same thing Nibs!


For once I actually have a contribution.


M: finally got in with physio about crocked elbows. Not (as I'd assumed) tennis elbow, but shoulder / posture leading to ulnar nerve impingment. Felt posiitive knowning what the problem was and that I could do something about it
T: Nowt.
W: Nowt.
T: Worked from home, went for a 5km run on lunch. Undid all good work by going out for beers with a mate in the evening.
F: Nowt.
S: 90 mins at wall taking it very easy.
S: Woke up feeling surprisingly OK / not sore. Took Una swimming , then while she was doing some drawing sketched out plans for my cellar woodie. Later on had a walk round the park. Undid all good work by eating a mammoth fish and chip supper.

[fried]

M- Rest
Tu - Indoors, a bit tired, but ticked off 2x'6B' 2h.
W - Rest
Th - Su - Early family Christmas, mostly drink and try to stop kids flying mini-drones into my TV.

I'd even forgotten what day it was.

[Luke Owens]

M: Core

T: Boardroom - 2 x 10 mins LI-Aerocap on the auto-belay

Moonboard - Tried 6C+ a few times, close to latching crux move.

Close on a crimpy 6B+ last move nails.

Finished off with a Ben Moon 6B+ - Happy with that!

Circuit Board - 5 x 1 min on 1 min off HI-Aerocap

15 mins LI-Aerocap as a warm down.

W - S: Nothing... Family illness and acceptance that I've strained my A2's on both middle fingers, bizarre to of done both at the same time. Never been unable to climb on them but the pain has increased slightly after every session.

Aching fingers a couple of weeks ago, sudden jump in board volume and lack of sleep must of resulted in the strains. Seems to of occurred gradually. Annoying as the board training was going well.

Been doing the water treatment Lewis reaction thing, massaging and voodoo flossing, no swelling and less painful to touch, almost completely pain free.

Going to train endurance at the wall later and just climb open handed. Shame I'm too weak to climb open handed on the board, maybe I should use this as an opportunity to get strong on this grip type?

[Murph]

Nice one Lore. An inspiration as usual.

STG get thru Christmas without too much damage
MTG achieve new levels of strength and power. 147
LTG grit 7A lime 8A

(New self-imposed power club rule - no more reporting of secret training)

M-
T-campus session. Sets of:
1-3-5-7 RH first easier than LH first
1-4-touch6
1-43-43-43 bumps
1-42-42-42 bumps
145s
W-
T-campus session. Sets of:
145
125 (I like these)
F-works evening session. Turned out pretty knackered after the day before.
S-
S-

Sleep been awful again. Tried explaining to kids how much I need 8hrs but there's no reasoning with 1 or 3 year olds....

Anyone got/can recommend decent campus progression workout routines?

[nai]

Felt posiitive knowning what the problem was and that I could do something about it
T: Nowt.
W: Nowt.
F: Nowt.

Was that the advice

[Duma]

Goals:
Good winter bouldering season,
8A (Hunters Roof? Full Power?)and 8b by next June
In shape for SA next summer.

Body Audit: R shoulder still not right - trying to change posture at work but habits hard to break...
Sleep: fine atm.

M: TCA, first session on Mothership finals problems from the weekends' comp. really pleased, managed all but one, and that one in 2 halves and big overlaps. Particularly happy with the one I didn't complete as it was pretty undercutty and I'm shit at them - and need to improve for Hunters roof. Busted after.(6.5~hrs)
T: nowt, Christmas sorting. (~6.5hrs)
W: TCA, rest of the Mothership had been reset. Plan was to finish off the last finals problem, but wasn't close which was disappointing. Had an ok session on the other new stuff that had been put up though. (~6.5hrs)
T: nowt, cinema and Christmas organizing (~5.5hrs)
F: nowt, out for fancy dinner. (~6.5hrs)
S: nowt, stressful day involving airport drives followed by cancelled flights/holidays. Worked out ok though.(~9hrs)
S: nowt, plan was to try and get out somewhere, poss Dinas, but yesterdays events meant other priorities. Successfully finished Christmas prep though, and great roast at the pub. (~7.5hrs)


70kg 

[36chambers]

M: finally got in with physio about crocked elbows. Not (as I'd assumed) tennis elbow, but shoulder / posture leading to ulnar nerve impingment. Felt posiitive knowning what the problem was and that I could do something about it

welcome to the ulnar nerve issues club

M:
T: 50 board. Slow starter but a good session, made good progress on a number of "moderate" problems I've been trying.   
W: core (I think)
T:
F:
S: Short session on Zoo York, with too few pads and no spotter, so just working the moves into the cut loose. Way more consistent than last time.
S: Almscliff. "Active rest". W9 gym ball core and deadlifts.

This past month I've been slacking with the antagonistic stuff and (although I've been climbing reasonably well) I have also been feeling quite lethargic in general, almost to the point in which I'm tempted to start running again. Why does grit season have to coincide with the festive season? Anyway, this evening I'll start with a tabata session and take it from there.

[duncan]

M: finally got in with physio about crocked elbows. Not (as I'd assumed) tennis elbow, but shoulder / posture leading to ulnar nerve impingment. Felt posiitive knowning what the problem was and that I could do something about it

Good luck. Should include pecs. stretching and  mid-thoracic spine mobilising exercises.

DID MY PROJECT! ... All worth it.

Inspiring stuff as ever.


STG: Rehab. shoulder, stop weight-gain.
MTG: project a 7b. Manage life's stresses more effectively (specific goals here but not for ukb).
LTG: Font 7A. 7b+. E5. Tempi Moderni August 2017 + one other long, hard and free
BHAG: Chant du Cygne

M - Shoulder sore from Portland previous day.
T - Shoulder rehab. exercises.
W - Westway: very easy laps on autobelay.  Shoulder sore.
T -
F - Shoulder rehab. exercises, reintroduced bicep curls. Much worse after this.
S -
S -
M - Westway: trivially easy laps on autobelay. Shoulder sore.
T -
M -
T - Revised shoulder rehab. exercises. No exacerbation, hurrah!
F - Shoulder rehab. exercises. Step-ups x 20 mins.
S - Shoulder rehab. exercises. Step-ups x 20 mins. Hip and trunk exercises.
S - Shoulder rehab. exercises. Hip and trunk exercises.

A poor two weeks for climbing or training - and I’m fat - but there have been several positive developments. Work is a bit easier. A couple of strong partners are interested in going to the Dolomites next summer, Terradets is looking good with accommodation booked and three others confirmed, and I’ve got several other interesting trips ‘in development’. Just need to shake off this shoulder issue and get down to training. I do now feel I’ve got a better idea what’s the issue - mechanically - and hopefully with a concerted period of rehab.ing over the break I can start climbing properly in January. Probably best leave bouldering for a couple of months and just focus on getting a good aerobic base. This wouldn’t be a bad thing given one summer objective involves 6c+ after 24 pitches but less ideal for long term improvement.

Plan: work on hip and shoulder every day. Very easy climbing, outdoors if weather permits. Uphill fitness x3/week.

[Nibile]

Cheers guys!
 

[Luke Owens]

Sun - board climbing, DID MY PROJECT!

Yes beast! Nice one!

Video?

[Nibile]

Unfortunayely not! It was quite unexpected to be honest.
The problem is the one I linked on my Power Club entry last week, this one


Fell for almost the entire week going for the left hand blue undercling. Nasty 7th move. I got my ass handed to me for setting that move.

[Muenchener]

STG: Get to the top of a moonboard by any means whatsoever.
MTG (Spring 2017): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: Beastmaker max hangs in the morning before work. Trying to establish a new training habit: fingerboarding as a regular supplement to my normal training, instead of just a substitute when I can't make it to the wall for whatever reason.
   Office Christmas party. in which I allowed an evil colleague from Cuba to lure me into switching from beer to rum for the later part of the evening. Oops.
T:   Feeling unwell, not surprisingly. Son also feeling unwell - hopefully not for the same reason - so no bouldering wall for us this evening.
   An hour mobility / shoulder rehab / kettlebells / core
W: OK, the *plan* was to supplement wall sessions with fingerboarding. But with the amount of family stuff to deal with in the run-up to Christmas, the reality this week is Beastmaker max hangs: better than nothing.
T: 
F:
S: Family Christmas preparations. Listened to Stevie on the Power Company podcast whilst ironing.
S: Wall, Freimann. Nine routes up to 6b+. A spectacularly weak session, unsurprisingly since I don't think I've had a rope on since October. In fact I'm so out of practice, I forgot I needed to pack one of those "harness" thingies and had to rent one. It was horrible.
   So now I have two months to acquire some power endurance before I head to Spain in the spring. Should be feasible.

[nai]

Mon - max hangs. Still disappointing. Neck didn't like it.

Tue
AM - Board - tried to get an AnCap circuit going but was struggling with lack of actual climbing recently. Bouldered sub maximally for 30 minutes
high rep/low weight shoulder workout

PM - HI AeroCap

Wed
AM - Yoga class - different instructor (how do they "teach" with their eyes closed?), lower intensity, too much about feeling energy and being centred for my liking, preferred last weeks subtle brutality.

PM - LI AeroCap

Thu
AM - Deep Tissue massage. Deeper and more painful than last week
Eve - 20 mins flexibility yoga

Fri -  Quite Sore!
couldn't get going to climb
shoulder workout around 75% intensity
30 minutes flexibility

Sat - worked out an AnCap circuit and did a set before realising I probably wouldn't have chance to repeat it until January so there was little point. Bouldered instead. Managed some moves from max-out problems worked on a few months back but couldn't link any together. Surprised to manage that even tbf.
Few weights

Sun - family christmas shizzle = nowt

[measles23]

DID MY PROJECT!

Great first post for club - looks like Hubble training 

M- 1. BM2k max hangs 1/2 crimp on small crimps: 10 sets up to +50x5s
     2. BM2k max hangs full crimp on small crimps: 7 sets up to +40x6s
T-  1. BM2k max hangs 1/2 crimp on small crimps: 9 sets up to +40x3s
     2. BM2k max hangs full crimp on small crimps: 7 sets up to +30x6s
W- Rest
T- Rest
F- Rest
S- BM2k max hangs 1/2 crimp on small crimps: 10 sets up to +55x4s
S- Stoke AW: Few one foot probs to V3, did moonboard project mebbe 7B (in real money); Alison now doing moves on the moonboard..
Campus board 3 sets per side 4-1 x3 drop downs
Ring dips 3x3

[tomtom]

Nice one Nibs.

Starting power club thread this week was like 20 people stood at the edge of a cold swimming pool waiting for someone to dive in first...

M: Stockport wall. First time I'd climbed in over a week. I was great! Not often I say that, but everything felt good. Movement, co-ordination, strength, figuring out problems etc.. really good session. Probably incorrectly graded problems but it was good to be back...

T: Work

W: Work

Th: God what a shit forecast.. for those in midweek climber club its been atricky week, good conditions in some places, penetrating clag in others Anyway, only mad fools and Shark and TomTom go to remergence when its dank - and it was probably the only dry bit of rock around for miles on Thursday. It was a pretty grim session to be honest, nothing to warm up on, moving badly. Went through the motions. Shark was climbing better - and had graduated from a block of cheese to a tupperware box of cheese chunks and cocktail sausages (I recon he'd raided someones Xmas party)... More amusement was had making owl hoots to confuse passing walkers - hidden in remergences foggy heights

Fr: Deadhangs. 35's and small crimps. Felt good.

Sa: Great day... Dickensien fog in Manchester when I left at 9:30 - lovely sunshine at Curbar. Met up with Plattsy (Hello!) at Trackside - usual warm up affair of flailing about on everything and flashing Trackside Spent a few skins trying Sidetrack and felt much stronger on it than last time, but just couldnt commit to flipping the LH around from gaston to regular. Weird problem - just can't get a happy body position on it.. Up to bad landing boulder. Sketched up bad lip and worked the throw on Muse... Got it!! (eventually!). Pleasant scenes up at BLanding and got some good beta from a fella there (Hello!) about Huffys - managed to pull on and it felt like it might go one day.... a project is born...

Su: Walk, lunch, Walk.

Good week.

[T_B]

M- P.M. Repeaters. 2 x 6 x 7 front 3, 1 x 6 x 7 back 3, 1 x 6 x 7 half crimp.
T - Lattice board. First session warming up then a few 40 moves with approx 5 mins rest and 1 x 44 moves. I realise this is woeful having since spoken to the Reeve/Sharples, but hey, you've got to start somewhere!
W - LI AeroCap
T - P.M. Works. Warmed up then straight on Motherboard. Met Bob who joined me. Best session yet. Did 1 x 7A+, 2 x 7B, 1 x 7B+ and made progress on a 7C. Then 7 x Murples.
F - 35 mins of AeroCap.
S -
S - Lakes family visit. Despite the weather being pretty good we had no pads! So went to Eden Rock as Mrs T_B was keen to climb on their infamous board, previously described by gme as "the best board in the country". The board is actually two boards - a 55 degree (SHAFT) and a 45 degree. We decided to try and summit the 55 degree using any sequence . Mrs T_B in heaven. Anyway, after much huffing and puffing I topped the board out. The easiest recorded problems are 7B+ and mine was probably about that. It's by far the hardest board I have ever been on and makes the School 50 and Motherboard seem very approachable. If you trained on this board you would climb Swiss 8B nay bother. Did some other circuit problems including one of the Beastmaker wood ones. Finished with 15 mins on the big circuit board (which didn't seem very well set - the only 'bad' thing about the centre). P.M. 5Km run around Cockermouth.

Almost felt like I was up to power on Thursday pm. Endurance has a long way to go though. Like Highball in Norwich, Eden Rock is a disproportionately good climbing centre for size of population, that proves bigger isn't always better. Worth a visit just to climb on the 55. Unless you're weak.

[shark]

Thanks nibs and congratulations crushing the project

Going to train endurance at the wall later and just climb open handed. Shame I'm too weak to climb open handed on the board, maybe I should use this as an opportunity to get strong on this grip type?

Errr yes. Surprised you haven't been already. IIRC it was pointed out some time ago that you were getting pumped on routes because you crimped everything. Not that I'm one to accept all advice offered

11.2-3

M. Noon Systems Training. Time to rearrange crusher crimp holds - getting too strong on benchmark moves. PB on AnCap routine. Eve Fingerboard. Open hand repeaters. Progress. Eve Yoga

T. PM Systems board. Gastons and throws practice. Progress on both.

W. Didnt sleep well. Early start. Interview in the morning. PM Checked out Crag X - soaked.

T. Didnt sleep well again. AM Fingerboard Warmup. Drove out. Awful clag. Would have turned back at Ringinglow except I was meeting TT. Incredibly Blind Date was dry We had an hour so on it before it started condensing. Best go I got left hand pocket but slipped off intermediate pebble. PM Foundry. Did a clutch of level 2's - some new. Worked on white black spots and made progress - did all the moves. Eve Fingerboard Half Crimp repeaters - tips were sore

F. Noon. Systems board. AnCap - almost matched Mondays PB but was a struggle. Think I was tired and didnt warm up thoroughly. Eve Drive to Devon

S. Eat, drink etc

S. Eat, drink etc Drive back from Devon


Last week of first three week block and generally pleased how its gone. However going forward there is a spanner in the works as I have been verbally offered a job  which looks 99% likely to go ahead.

I cant talk about it specifically because its not fully in the bag yet. In most respects its an incredible opportunity and dream job except there is a ballache commute involved and generally it will turn my current lifestyle upside down. If it goes ahead then instead of 'swanning around in an ethereal fashion' (to quote my brother) I will be buzzing around like a blue arsed fly with limited windows to climb and train and possibly less energy for it too. I will have to synchronise and plan stuff with my wife and family a lot more. However - it will be well worth it as I was becoming a bit jaded and needed an exciting (non-climbing) project to get stuck into and this is just what the doctor ordered. It will also make climbing a bit more special again when I do get out.

It may be that a Spring offensive on the Oak is impractical but on the other hand maybe that is no bad thing as I can do a longer strength build up for an attempt in the Autumn. Ill have to see how it goes.   

Trying to reverse recent weight gain this week in readiness for the old boys lattice re-test on Thursday
 

[dave]

Next England manager? Russian ambassador to Turkey? Give us a clue.

[shark]

Next England manager? Russian ambassador to Turkey? Give us a clue.

I'll PM you

[tommytwotone]

...I will be buzzing around like a blue arsed fly with limited windows to climb and train and possibly less energy for it too. I will have to synchronise and plan stuff with my wife and family a lot more...
 

i.e. you'll be just like the other 99% of us then!


Seriously though, congratulations - I'm wracking my brains to think what it might be as well.

[Doylo]

England managers position has gone so it must be the Turkey job.

[Luke Owens]

Going to train endurance at the wall later and just climb open handed. Shame I'm too weak to climb open handed on the board, maybe I should use this as an opportunity to get strong on this grip type?

Errr yes. Surprised you haven't been already. IIRC it was pointed out some time ago that you were getting pumped on routes because you crimped everything. Not that I'm one to accept all advice offered

It's the repeated half crimping on the board that's caused it. I can't even begin to imagine how hard open handing everything on a board must be?

I did a routes session last night, open handed everything and got just as pumped as I usually do...

Congrats on the job!

[shark]

...I will be buzzing around like a blue arsed fly with limited windows to climb and train and possibly less energy for it too. I will have to synchronise and plan stuff with my wife and family a lot more...

i.e. you'll be just like the other 99% of us then!

Yep

Seriously though, congratulations - I'm wracking my brains to think what it might be as well.

Thanks - though its not a done deal yet. And I know what you are saying - I thought I was unemployable too