[account_inactive]

I must be being stupid

I thought you were trying to say that V11 is font 8b

[Fingers of a Martyr]

u ain't dylan, everyones gettin mixed up in this thread.

[account_inactive]

So let me get this straight, the V11 he did was 8b

or

The 8b he did was V11?

WTF?

[Nigel]

That is Anasthesia V13, FA John Gaskins. Repeated by Ian Vickers, Si o'Conor.

Although for esoterica buffs Si did have a problem on his scorecard a while ago called Isla Debaser V12. The description was "steel traverse off Isla De Encanta", so Si has done a new V12 in Lancs. Don't know where it goes though - Si? There is a Gaskins V8 lurking just right of Isla but I don't know how it relates to Isla Debaser. This "V8" problem is V10/11 at least anyway!

[Fingers of a Martyr]

dylan u've lost me completly.

he did a v14 or 8b+ which got downgraded to v13 or 8b by gaskins. plus his two v11's or 8a's at the same location were both confirmed by gaskins. and a v12 as as well actually.

[Nigel]

On the subject of the Little Font problems, I would take the grades with a pinch of salt. Gaskins has been on some kind of mutant grading trip overt the last few years. At The Heart Of It All V13/14 (yeah right - V15?), Violent New Breed 9a+?? (erm - impossible!).

Little Women RH looks at least V14, as Si gave it. Well, frankly, it looks like a V15, into a V13 (Little Women. V11! Whatever).

[Fingers of a Martyr]

(Little Women. V11! Whatever).

hmmmm.... i remember when i questioned its grade on scottishclimbs i was given 'well gaskins says it is' response Nigel. :wink:

[Nigel]

I would still believe Gaskins as I haven't even tried it, and he's done it (in a session). It does look about V13 to me though! I would like to think that I could get close or do the moves on a V11 of this length. I can see by looking at it though that I'd be hard pushed to move  :?

[Fingers of a Martyr]

well i campussed the last 4 moves :  :

but couldn't even pull off the starting holds

[Greg C]

Plus the Art of War was not a traverse!
Still pains me looking at the fucking paint I did not manage to scrape off... :asshole:

[Fingers of a Martyr]

wot, so someone painted the holds that were allowed for the problem?

[dave]

if its the thing i think it is, theres a shitty vertical bit of woodwell, and theres a series of holds each with a red dot and next to each one is painted SOC99. Last time i went to a crag and did eliminates i managed without graffiti on the rock.

[Si O'Conor]

...

[c.j.d.]

Firstly, back to the original thread - nice one mr katz - beat me to it you little fucker!  Looks like i'll have to wait until sunday (hopefully!) for the third ascent (or the politically correct 'fourth ascent').  The stuff at little font looks prety hard, but |I thought 'little women and 'bright new colour' (shite) were scraping the barrel a tad!  Compare these problems to the heart of it all (this being awesome) and it makes you think slightly about quality control for the grade and all that...  Any how - back to work.  Well done young man, if i send, we shall have to go and get suitabley fucked up!

[Nigel]

While we're on the subject who was it who put the red dots on the Red Dot Traverse? Have they been hung for the crime yet?  :wink:

Nick Conway or Paul Cornforth I think. No is the answer!

whereas the individual who did the luminous pink spray canning of the Kaizen overhang & the rest of the roof had no morality whatseover  :evil:

I spent days scrubbing that mindless shit off....

You missed a bit.   [/quote]

[Mr.Burns]

The irony is, at least when I dotted AoW it had some purpous to it, whereas the individual who did the luminous pink spray canning of the Kaizen overhang & the rest of the roof had no morality whatseover  

I spent days scrubbing that mindless shit off....

Yeah vandalising crags is fucking aweful no matter how big or small the act of vandalisation is.

Wasn't is you Si that scratched "nice one dave" into woodwell?
 
I guess that was in your crazy days aswell! cos just saying thanx to dave is so not down with the kids.

[dave]

so who did paint SOC99 next to the holds then? somone else called SOC?

[Greg C]

Yeah Dave that was Socie McAndrews who used to climb in our parts a lot in the late ninties  :D I believe he was great mates with the legendary Borrowdale climber John The Gardener  

[Nigel]

Come on now Burnsaroonie, no one's ever been arsed about "Nice One Dave" or they would have scrubbed it off! Now there's even a problem named after it, it is part of the Woodwell fold.