[fried]

M/T - rest
W - Indoors, another good session, picked off another 2x'6B', Just trying to find moves at just under my limit, good progress on some '6C' stuff too.
Th - rest
Fr - Same as above, started feeling the '6B" stuff was getting too easy, went and tried a problem I'd failed miserably on 4 weeks ago, seemed pretty easy today. Good.
Sa - Wanted to get out, but family are arriving next week, too much to do.
Su - Cooked curry all day, cleaned, quick BM session with a glass of red wine.

Good progress indoors, obviously going to get spanked when I get back outside. No chance of getting on rock until after Chistmas, but got the whole week off, hoping for good thing weather wise and a decent spot, kelvvviiinnn.

[tomtom]

M -Th Down in Windsor on a course.
F: weather meh. Low level cold (Category 5 TomTomFlu) felt like doing nothing. In the end had an alright BM session working the slopers which i'd not done for years..
Sa: weather Meh again. dads Xmas booze up in town - ate a very large amount of meat at Bem Brasil. Excellent.
Su Horrible hangover... got into the bad books as I was due to look after TTjnr whilst MrsTT went on her Xmas boozing but was incapable so she had to take the bairn with her...

All in all a sub successful training week...

[Muenchener]

Su Horrible hangover... got into the bad books as I was due to look after TTjnr whilst MrsTT went on her Xmas boozing but was incapable so she had to take the bairn with her...

Sucks breath in through clenched teeth ...

[shark]

Thanks fried

11.0-11.2

M. AM Nice and cold again. Went to Remegence. Good conditions. Spent the day on Blind Date 7B+. In summary had 4 good goes going for right hand slot including 1 go where I got it but didnt hold it. Would have been good to have gone on this fresh rather than 4th day on
PM Fingerboard Open hand repeaters. A few finger rolls and wide pull ups at end.
Eve Yoga class

T. PM Systems Board. Throws practice (Power) Good improvement Then felt ravenous and tired so went to Morrisons for an omelette. Came back and did well on gastons too
Eve Systems board AnCap Thought it would be hopeless after 5 days on but did really well. Phone died and had to count down 2 mins in head between goes for the second set. Really noticed increased hip flexibility from yoga last night.

W. PM Foundry. 2.5hours of level 2 action on the new set. Started doing some autobelaying at end but tired and sore skin so sacked it off. Interesting mix of people and activities: Mase with the Youth Team inc Molly T-S. Steve Mac belaying his kids. Ben Moon and Haydn reinstalling Moon board with xmas LED light show. Keith and Ben Pritch on Wave.

T.

F. PM Greasy on Systenms board Good improvement on throws again. Then had a snack and a nap. Came back and did OK on gastons. Eve. Tried to do an AnCap session before leaving the office but board too greasy so sacked it off.
Eve Tired when got home but forced myself to do an FB session - glad I did - good progress on half crimp repeaters. A few finger rolls and wide pull-ups at end

S.PM Foundry. Quiet. Everyone recovering from Works Party? Bouldered with Mark Shea and Paul Reeve. Put time in on black and white spots with Paul. Did slopey Pink at end. Did a few aerocap laps on autobelay but was too cooked and started getting pumped. Called it a day. Monster sess

S. PM Weather was meh. I was feeling meh. Sick of indoors. Boys not up for going outside and I wasnt in the mood to hassle them. Went to eatswood (not been for 2 months nai!) Tom R and another Tom there. Mainly worked the moves to and from the sloping shelf and sections of the original with a long term view to doing "Back and There" which I'm guessing would weigh in at route 8b


This week has seemed to go on forever. Weather crapped out / got warmer after Monday which kept me indoors. One more hard week of training - thank god - then an easier week. Motivation waning, weight creeping back up - even ate bread   

Going for an interview this week (first in nearly twenty years) for a 12 month contract which I'm really excited about doing but it will totally fuck up my climbing and training it I get it
 

[Murph]

Motivation waning, weight creeping back up - even ate bread   

What's the thinking here? You trying HFLC or keto or something - or just trying to avoid bread/wheat?

[nai]

Motivation waning, weight creeping back up     

You can't be on it all the time.  I find it easier to be light (and motivated) for sport season if I let myself go a bit over winter.  2-3kg extra hardly matters for bouldering (or so I kid myself) and you'll feel supercharged when you drop it as Spring comes around.

[Murph]

STG - get my act together. think this has started
MTG - just a tiny bit of consistency. yep - two semi-planned sessions equals consistency in my world
LTG - it was Rubicon 8A but now it may as well be grit 7A. hey, its supposed to be an LTG, right?

M - Dan John podcast. The inventor of the goblet squat. This guy has written a lot about training. And he seems to have recommended everything at one time or another - train every day, train three times a week, train on weekends only etc. Made me realise it doesn't matter what the plan is so long as I do it in useful blocks. Did 50 pull ups (AKA secret trainng/the Foxx protocol), hamstring flexibility stuff and wrist flexibility (I'm one of those who can't touch toes or touch shoulder with back of hand or bend wrist to more than about 60 degrees. Shocking really).

T - Works. Did all the Pinkles to warm up for my first campus session. In hindsight too much of a warmup maybe. Did 10 "sets" of 1-3-5 leading with each arm with 2:30 minute rests. Missed maybe 3 or 4 attempts. Evening: 15 minutes of "prayer squats" which I figure tackles hip and wrist flexibility in one go. Hamstrings.

W - secret training, 300 KB swings, prayer squats, hamstrings.

T - Works. Second campus session. 20-25 blacks as warm up. Again too much of a warmup. Did 6 sets of 1-3-5 missing only two. Then did 4 sets of "bumps" going 1-4-3-4-3-4-3. They felt easier than 1-3-5. Then two attempts at 1-4-6. Learning point - don't save the hardest thing til the end. And do reaches for 1-4-6 before trying to land it. Good session though. Feels fine to be trying to tackle weakness.

F - Secret training. Late night beers

S - A rare hangover day.

S - Secret training. FB session - up to +38kgs but could only manage 7 seconds. Four sets of various one arm hangs. Still not firing properly for these. Still not a bad innings. 300KB swings, TRX - TYIs - 3 supersets of 10 reps of each position, prayer squats and hamstrings.

Weight - 65kgs this morning BMI 22.8. Not too shabby and it's good to have a bit of ballast for a training block.

[Muenchener]

STG: Get to the top of a moonboard by any means whatsoever.
MTG (Spring 2017): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: Bike one hour
   Shoulder rehab
T:   In Bremen with work. Had hoped to check out one of the (two) local bouldering walls. A four hour flight delay courtesy of Lufthansa scuppered that plan; instead I just barely had time for a quick gallop through the Christmas Market on the waterfront before it closed. Seemed like a Top Tip, way better than the ones at home. And a couple of extra rest days will probably do my dodgy shoulder no harm at all.
W: All day meeting in Bremen, evening flight home nearly on time.
T: Bike two hours
F: Beastmaker. Felt strong and set a pb on the small campus rung (8 seconds @ +20kg). There might be something in this "resting" malarkey after all.
S: Boulderwelt with M jnr. No hope on finger power problems (moonboard) - unsurprisingly considering max hangs yesterday. So adjourned to the circuit board where I very nearly flashed a 6c+ - got a bad foot sequence on the start first go, did it fairly easily second go. Not bad.
S: An hour mobility / shoulder rehab / kettlebells / core

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - board climbing, despite starting very tired managed to have a very satisfying session. Very close to climbing a project. PE low, very poor. Boxing bag.
Tue - rest.
Wed - dumbbell complex x3. Fast and furious.
Thu - rest.
Fri - rest. Smashed.
Sat - board climbing. Very close again on the project. This thing here Boxing bag.
Sun - board climbing, still close. Very strong  on lower part. Weights, isometric session. Traps work.

Very pleased about the project, I'm very close. It's quite hard and it's one of the best ones I've ever set and tried. The art of movement refinement and perfection. And power.
Next week will feature only board climbing with no weights or anything else.

[shark]

Motivation waning, weight creeping back up     

You can't be on it all the time.  I find it easier to be light (and motivated) for sport season if I let myself go a bit over winter.  2-3kg extra hardly matters for bouldering (or so I kid myself) and you'll feel supercharged when you drop it as Spring comes around.

Trouble is I struggled to shift it all last Spring

[shark]

Motivation waning, weight creeping back up - even ate bread   

What's the thinking here? You trying HFLC or keto or something - or just trying to avoid bread/wheat?

If HFLC means High Fat, Low Carbs then that's what I've been doing

[T_B]

M - Lunch HI AeroCap on Autobelays
T - Ill
W - 30 mins of moving around
T - Bouldering on Wave/bleaustone. New set. Did half a dozen L2s and 3 x L3s. Somewhat lacking in snap.
F - Max hangs. 4 x half crimp +25Kg, 2mins 30 secs rest. 3 x middle 2 + 10Kg, failed on 7 secs on rep 4. 2 mins 30 secs rest. 15 minutes Aero.
S -
S - Had afternoon free with Mrs T_B. Went to Curbar and warmed up on Mini Prow boulder (which was dry), but other stuff looked damp so sacked it off and went to Tor. Which was bone. She was keen to try Ben's. I managed to repeat it, which I was pleased with as I find it hard. Tried to do it again with the other finish but skin didn't like it. She suggests I try Keen Roof. Surprisingly all the moves to the crux are OK. The crux slap to the lip is a level up though!

Fingerboarding seems to be paying off. Will try and just increase the reps with the current weight I have now settled at. Lost a bit of weight from stomach bug.

[tomtom]

Motivation waning, weight creeping back up     

You can't be on it all the time.  I find it easier to be light (and motivated) for sport season if I let myself go a bit over winter.  2-3kg extra hardly matters for bouldering (or so I kid myself) and you'll feel supercharged when you drop it as Spring comes around.

Trouble is I struggled to shift it all last Spring

Maybe Santa could bring you a stomach staple voucher?

Looks nice out there this morning... having burned so many points re: hangover at the weekend, I daren't ask if I can go out....

[nai]

Motivation waning, weight creeping back up     

You can't be on it all the time.  I find it easier to be light (and motivated) for sport season if I let myself go a bit over winter.  2-3kg extra hardly matters for bouldering (or so I kid myself) and you'll feel supercharged when you drop it as Spring comes around.

Trouble is I struggled to shift it all last Spring

Again, I find it easier to shift when I've had enough/too much of all the nice things. It is a bit of a bugger to start but soon becomes habit again.  Maybe you need to think back to Autumn 2015, what motivated you then and what did you do that worked?

[T_B]

Maybe it's muscle?

Sport climbing makes you skinny, bouldering makes you heavy.

[tomtom]

Maybe it's muscle?

Sport climbing makes you skinny, bouldering makes you heavy.

Thats a nice way of looking at it

My 'seasonal' weight gain is usually made up of Christmas over indulgence.. hic.

[Coops_13]

STG: Heal elbow
MTG: More 7B/+s
LTG: 8A

M:
T:
W: Squash, lost 6-3
T:  Work Christmas party at London Zoo
F:  Works 10th birthday in Sheffield, only stayed till 2 as wanted to get out next day
S: Plantation. Rained a lot over night again... Zippy's was wet. Dried it a bit but felt so so weak, crucial sloper wet so I sacked it off (for the year). Checked out Higgar, all wet. Decided to go for a drive and went to Smallfield Roof. Did Larger Lout 6C+ and Dancing Man 7A+, really nice move but not hard once you've hit it once.
S: Burbage, super windy. Elbow killing me, unable to do anything. Not good

No climbing in the week to rest elbow, still bad at weekend if not worse. Gonna rest it probably from now till the new year, also going to try and see a doc this week.

[shark]

Maybe it's muscle?

Sport climbing makes you skinny, bouldering makes you heavy.

There may be something in that. Weighed 11.3 this morning but only 9.9% body fat. Good job I'm not doing weights

[SA Chris]

Bad week

M - Nowt
T - Weight session - arms.
W - Wall session felt jaded, 3 sessions in 6 days the previous week were probably a bit much, pruls tricepts a bit sore from weight session
T - Nowt
F - Nowt, large christmas lunch
S - Nowt, large curry + beer
S - ran 6 k in evening

4lbs heavier than last week this time.

[Duma]

Maybe you need to think back to Autumn 2015, what motivated you then and what did you do that worked?

didn't he go to canada and get whipped into shape by habrich?

[petejh]

STG: Secret winter goal.
MTG: first 8b+ (Mecca), spring.
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

After 4 weeks total rest from climbing - 3 from flu, 1 from planned rest - finally got back into the groove this week. Hadn't thought I'd bother with powerclub through the winter as I'm focused on training for mixed this year. But then I'm also keeping fingers strong for spring with 1 FB sesh and 1 boulder sesh so might as well record it on here.

M. Went out xmas tree hustling in a forest above Belfst.
T. Flew back from NI. Max hangs on beastmaker. First time trying these so just finding a baseline. Did 16kg, large slot, 5 reps x 10secs. 3min rest between reps. Feels like a smaller hold would be better - the bottom middle slot size would be ideal. Might put up a rung this size instead of using the BM.
W. Drytooling, Penmon. 2 laps TR solo by headtorch.
T.
F.
S. Core/Mobe sesh. Drytooling, Penmon. 4 laps TR solo by headtorch. Starting to get smooth again.
S.Boulder. Sheep Pen. Did Shell, Mr T (ace), Olive Ridley (ace), Klem's bulge high start, Klem's Bulge low start, Toe Dragon and Dog Shooter. Just cruising felt good. Psyched for a day a week on a few hard (for me) projs over winter - immediate springs to mind are Jerry's Prob at sheep pen and finish off Millennium Drive.


I've also, ummm... found an undeveloped Kilnsey. No exaggeration. One of the top 4 sport crags in the UK (Malham, Kilnsey, Diamond, 'X') hasn't even been developed yet. Unbelievable what's out there. Development starts next weekend. Hahahahaha yyfy!

[webbo]

Mon. Still full of cold. Aircraft museum with grandson.
Tue. Still ill.
Wed. Still ill.
Thu. Slightly better. Board session working a problem with screw on feet, can't quite do all the moves. Went ok apart from the occasional coughing fit.
Fri. Tried a bike ride 23.11 miles 1 hr 26 mins coughing up a fair bit of stuff. Felt reasonable and heart rate didn't go too high.
Sat. Board did problem from Thursday with a bit more working, worked some other stuff. Bike same rise as Thursday. Still feeling a bit shit.
Sun. Bike 26.66 miles 1 hr 41 mins tried riding up a steepish hill, went ok but still coughing a bit. Not bringing so much crap up tho.

[shark]

Maybe you need to think back to Autumn 2015, what motivated you then and what did you do that worked?

didn't he go to canada and get whipped into shape by habrich?

Good question nai.

The main losses were achieved after I came back putting into practice the ascetic learnings of the Habrich. It also helped that jet lag screwed my body clock and also Sonia was up for it too. Dropping below 11stone for the first time was exciting and I felt I was in a new world of possibility to see how low I could go and how long I could sustain it. Getting repeatedly high on the Oak kept it going. Second time round a lot of the novelty was gone maybe.

[nai]

Maybe it's muscle?

Sport climbing makes you skinny, bouldering makes you heavy.

There may be something in that. Weighed 11.3 this morning but only 9.9% body fat. Good job I'm not doing weights

Wouldn't that be ironic if the bouldering everyone told you to do to help with the Oak made you too heavy for the Oak  Anyway whatever fighting weight is there's no need to be at it until you're ready to rumble, if willpower is weakening then Eat, Drink, Train Heavy.

[nai]

Maybe you need to think back to Autumn 2015, what motivated you then and what did you do that worked?

didn't he go to canada and get whipped into shape by habrich?

Good question nai.

The main losses were achieved after I came back putting into practice the ascetic learnings of the Habrich. It also helped that jet lag screwed my body clock and also Sonia was up for it too. Dropping below 11stone for the first time was exciting and I felt I was in a new world of possibility to see how low I could go and how long I could sustain it. Getting repeatedly high on the Oak kept it going. Second time round a lot of the novelty was gone maybe.

Was what you did in Canada also part of the equation?  You seem to be more motivated by climbing outdoors than training (almost put proper in from of that ))  From memory you did a lot of trad and bouldering, basically loads and loads of different climbing. Aside from the physical adaptions (raised Aerobic threshold and stronger?) would there be anything in having refreshed your movement skills?

[36chambers]

M:
T: 50 board. Ridiculously busy, but I still managed to have a good session. Improving on the smaller holds. Piecing together an established hard "board 8grade" problem which consists of 5 moves of which I can just do the easiest. Can barely hold the positions, so have been making up similar easier problems using some of the holds to get use to them.
W:
T: 50 board. Very good session. Made light work of some problems that use to feel hard. 
F:
S: Cliff. Supporting GF on DWR. Played around on pointless eliminates.
S: Zoo York. Finally tried the top section which was reassuringly fine. Have officially done all the moves now. Cut loose move feeling fine, made better links than last session and everything felt easier in general. Had some feeble attempts from the start, but good progress overall.

[Duma]

I've also, ummm... found an undeveloped Kilnsey. No exaggeration. One of the top 4 sport crags in the UK (Malham, Kilnsey, Diamond, 'X') hasn't even been developed yet. Unbelievable what's out there. Development starts next weekend. Hahahahaha yyfy!

wtf?!?! Wales or NI?

[Duma]

Goals:
Good winter bouldering season,
8A (Hunters Roof? Full Power?)and 8b by next June
In shape for SA next summer.

Body Audit: Fingers ok, R shoulder still not right - trying to change posture at work but habits hard to break...
Sleep: lots over the weekend, so feeling ok.

Really can't remember much from last week
M: TCA on new whites, think finished off all but three. (~6hrs)
T: nowt. (~6.5hrs)
W: TCA, tired and poor session, did finish one more white though, 2 hard ones to go. (~7hrs)
T: TCA, very brief, still knackered but did a 7a+ ish circuit and then bimbled round about half the reds (5+ to 6B)(~6.5hrs)
F: nowt, work then picked up daughter. (~7.5hrs)
S: nowt. (~8hrs)
S: TCA afternoon with daughter, nice as haven't got to take her much since summer. Managed to do a bit myself too - comp problems from sat, did all but 2, not much impression on those though (not many attempts either though). Ran out of time to try finals. (~7.5hrs)

Really tired during week - fun to play on whites but weds and thurs sessions were pretty compromised by sleep. Caught up now but not ideal.

70kg 

[nai]

I've also, ummm... found an undeveloped Kilnsey. No exaggeration. One of the top 4 sport crags in the UK (Malham, Kilnsey, Diamond, 'X') hasn't even been developed yet. Unbelievable what's out there. Development starts next weekend. Hahahahaha yyfy!

wtf?!?! Wales or NI?

Yeah interesting but surely the big question is:

M. Went out xmas tree hustling in a forest above Belfst.
T. Flew back from NI.

How do you get an xmas tree on a plane?

[andy_e]

Through the cabin door, obviously.

[Murph]

If HFLC means High Fat, Low Carbs then that's what I've been doing

Yeah that's what I meant. I've never tried it, but was intrigued by all the HFLC/keto stuff going around these days, so listened to the Neil Gresham interview where he said it made weight loss effortless, he just wasn't hungry, and his friend who tried it said it made him "into a weapon".

Sounds ideal but bread and social and stuff. Might get stuck in after Christmas but there's more than one way to skin a cat.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[nai]

If you're the sort of person who only eats when they're hungry then it could work for you, if you like to pick then you end up grazing on some very calorie dense foods which add up very quickly.  Use a diet app like MyFitnessPal to keep track.

Gresh and DMC had good results because they did a lot of research and did it properly, I suspect my failing was doing half a job.

[nai]

goals - 

Dec - Feb proper training now hopefully

2017 - Powerplant, Raindogs, Nemesis, Anger Management, 7c onsight, E6.

Mon -
AM - Yoga class- good, enjoyed it, neck felt good afterwards.
PM - meant to try a gentle progression from repeaters to max hangs but got a bit carried away and ended up going all out.

Tue -
3x10mins LI AeroCap then spent just over an hour on circuits at the Works working out which ones will be best for AeroPow sessions.

Neck feels fucked again. Feel sure I've torn the Trap.

Wed - housework day. Slight delay after becoming irrationally angry with shark when he announced he was going scraping around for something to climb in such obviously rank conditions. Soon passed.

20 minutes beginners youtube yoga  PM

Thu
3x10mins LI AeroCap
2x20 mins youtube yoga (Warrior Strength (bit hard) & flexibility)

Fri -  Deep Tissue massage. Trap tear theory immediately dismissed.  A shed load of stiffness and knots found in shoulders and back, masseuse seemed genuinely surprised at the extent of knots, both in number and the size of some of them. Lots of the deep lying smaller muscles in a bad, bad way. Progress made though and booked in again for next week.

For anyone interested this is attributed to a number of bad habits that many if us probably fall into:

1. Not warming down properly after hard sessions.
We all know we should flush and stretch hard worked muscles but there's often not time or not inclination, keep trying as hard as we can then jump in the car and head home. I'll warm down next time....

2. Lack of supplementary exercises, antagonistics etc.

3. Not enough rest between hard sessions.
Further breaking down already broken down muscle before it's had chance to repair.  Again, an obvious thing and I should know better

4. Not enough non-climbing intervals throughout a climbing year/career.
Mustn't stop, I'll lose everything I've worked so hard for....

He also noted that my shoulders (boids and traps rather than delts) are underdeveloped so I will rely heavily on Lats when climbing, and suggested some exercises to address that.

Anyway I was sent home being warned I'd be sore for a few days so to take protein, use heat on the areas and to stretch, so:

Eve - 20 mins flexibility yoga

Sat - SORE! 20 minutes flexibility

Sun hungover  - couple of hours at mini works with daughter then supplemental weights back home

[SA Chris]

Su Horrible hangover... got into the bad books as I was due to look after TTjnr whilst MrsTT went on her Xmas boozing but was incapable so she had to take the bairn with her...

Sucks breath in through clenched teeth ...

Indeed. How is the doghouse this time of year? Chilly?

I remember our first NCT group headwetting night out, got utterly wankered and had to go out for a walk next morning with wife and new child in snowy wonderland with him in baby bjorn and me wondering if I vomited on the back of the baby bjorn if the vomit washed out as easily as the front. Saturday night 6 of the 7 of the original group were out together, 7 years to the day after the arrival of the first child.

[filz]

M: planks, weights
T: ring planks
W: Can't remember. Probably some theraband exercises during lunch break
T: Bouldering on rock after a while. Not bad.
F: Nothing
S: Working on my board. Removed all holds, cleaned up and set up my new wood holds. This week I will put in place all the holds. Psyched to try new problems
S: Bouldering. Conditions were not good. Some easy stuff then tried a 7c. I could barely do a couple of moves

[Nibile]

Some easy stuff then tried a 7c.

Which one?

[filz]

Some easy stuff then tried a 7c.

Which one?

Islero.

[petejh]

I've also, ummm... found an undeveloped Kilnsey. No exaggeration. One of the top 4 sport crags in the UK (Malham, Kilnsey, Diamond, 'X') hasn't even been developed yet. Unbelievable what's out there. Development starts next weekend. Hahahahaha yyfy!

wtf?!?! Wales or NI?

I know, it's mental what hasn't been developed. N.I. The new Yorkshire.

[Nibile]

Some easy stuff then tried a 7c.

Which one?

Islero.

I was sure.
Nevermind, in this case it's very simple. All you have to do for a quick ascent, is simply using all the holds of the adjacent problem, like all the other ascensionists have done, and then you can also call Islero soft. That's how they roll these days.

[petejh]

I've also, ummm... found an undeveloped Kilnsey. No exaggeration. One of the top 4 sport crags in the UK (Malham, Kilnsey, Diamond, 'X') hasn't even been developed yet. Unbelievable what's out there. Development starts next weekend. Hahahahaha yyfy!

wtf?!?! Wales or NI?

Yeah interesting but surely the big question is:

M. Went out xmas tree hustling in a forest above Belfst.
T. Flew back from NI.

How do you get an xmas tree on a plane?

Big coat.

I find it's nice to spruce up after a flight.

[measles23]

first campus session

At last!

69kg
Lighter week due to fatigue - mostly 2 session days

M- 1. Max hangs 1-arm pulley assist BM2k small crimp 1/2crimp: 10 sets up to -7kg x 5s
     2. Finger pull-ups (open hand to open crimp) 2-arm big crimp: 6 sets mostly +10 x 4s

T- 1. Max hangs 3 finger drag Metolius Central rung: 8 sets including a bunch of 0 x 5s
    2. Weighted pull-ups: 6 sets up to +55 x 2

W- 1. Max hangs 1-arm pulley assist BM2k small crimp 1/2crimp: 10 sets up to -6kg x 4s
     2. 2-arm hangs BM2k 1/2 crimp small crimps: 7 sets mostly +40 x 3s

T- 1. Max hangs 3 finger drag variety of holds: 10 sets up to +5 x 5s
    2. Weighted pull-ups/one-armers: 6 sets up to +55 x 1 + 4 single 1-armers per side

F-  1. Max hangs BM2k small crimps 1/2 crimp: 10 sets up to +50 x 4s
     2. Max hangs BM2k small crimps open crimp: 6 sets up to +40 x 2s
     3. Max hangs BM2k small crimps full crimp:  8 sets mostly +30 x 5s

S- Rest

S- Stoke AW: Handful one footed problems up to V3; other half climbing well, as was the boy - we're all pretty much at the same level now!
Handful of efforts on moonboard; have worked out a decent sequence to train on.
6 sets per side single 1-armers; decent quality
3 sets per side campus drop-downs (small rung 4 to 1)
3 x 3 ring dips

Half-way through my sick leave so time for half-term appraisal of the high frequency deadhanging:
45 fingerboard and 13 weighted pull-up/1-armer sessions in 5 weeks; all low volume/ high intensity (for me)
Body seems to have adapted well; no injuries/tweekiness; elbows and fingers fine - no obvious degradation, just a very slow incremental increase in max lifts. Overall a 10% increase in finger strength; not earth-shattering but I'd done a fair amount of fingerboarding and had reached my lifetime plateau before starting this program, so v chuffed to have broken plateau..

Would love to reach a 20% uplift, as that would equal 1-arming the BM2k small crimp in open crimp, and should translate into a meaningful difference on rock, so shall continue with the program (excepting obligatory Christmas "deload" week..)
 

[nai]

I find it's nice to spruce up after a flight.

Fir sure

[Murph]

S- Rest

At last!

Strong work Matt and some big training numbers there. Impressive use of your forced layoff.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[filz]

Some easy stuff then tried a 7c.

Which one?

Islero.

I was sure.
Nevermind, in this case it's very simple. All you have to do for a quick ascent, is simply using all the holds of the adjacent problem, like all the other ascensionists have done, and then you can also call Islero soft. That's how they roll these days.

Ok.. Next time I will try cheating

Inviato dal mio Nexus 6P utilizzando Tapatalk

[Nibile]

Some easy stuff then tried a 7c.

Which one?

Islero.

I was sure.
Nevermind, in this case it's very simple. All you have to do for a quick ascent, is simply using all the holds of the adjacent problem, like all the other ascensionists have done, and then you can also call Islero soft. That's how they roll these days.

Ok.. Next time I will try cheating

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No you won't. Because you know that if you try to, I'll suddenly spring out from behind the problem and break a few of your bones. 

[shark]

Maybe you need to think back to Autumn 2015, what motivated you then and what did you do that worked?

didn't he go to canada and get whipped into shape by habrich?

The main losses were achieved after I came back putting into practice the ascetic learnings of the Habrich.

Might the other contribution have been the shitloads of "easy" trad? Grand Wall, Freeway, etc. AeroCap with added soul?

I have looked back through my diary entries to see if I can glean what made the difference compared to this year and it isn't obvious. I was stronger this year but motivationally I think you could be on to something. From being in the pits of despair from burning my hand inApril and low expectations coming to Squamish (took 3 sessions to do Sardine when I started climbing again - formerly a warm up route) I then had a great time with you and got a lot of volume in then lost 7lbs when I got back and had a head start on theOak as it was quite cool at the tail end of the summer and good go up with Tommy who was still on summer hols. Hitting new high points then gave me an extra surge of enthusiasm in the autumn. This year there hasn't been quite the same excitement

[galpinos]

This year there hasn't been quite the same excitement

I imagine something like a bespoke training rung would help. Maybe ask Santa.......

[tomtom]

This year there hasn't been quite the same excitement

I imagine something like a bespoke training rung would help. Maybe ask Santa.......

With climb faster embossed on them! Winner!

[nai]

Unfortunately hanging faster won't help...

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[Luke Owens]

M: Boardroom - Progressively harder boulders as a warm-up. Moonboard, 2 x 6B+ and 6C tried varioud other problems.

T: Lunch: 30 mins Core

Eve: Plas Power - 2 x 10 mins LI-Aerocap

Board - Repeated an easy-ish problem and came up with a bunch of others. Also changed around some holds as the majority were small holds, need to work on big moves on big holds.

10 mins LI-Aerocap

W: 30 mins Core

T: Pillbox Wall - Tried Pill Box Original (nails) could only do the first 2 moves. Tried Mr Whippy and got some good foot beta, final throw feels miles, will try and use the more static undercut method next time. Few throws on Chocolate Wall.

F: Rest

S: Rest

S: Sheep Pen Boulders - 6A, 6B+/C, 6C+, 6C+, few goes on KoR which has been downgraded to 6C+, felt nails.