You can get it like a clamp with the right thigh to reach the second slot I think
Starting 12 week training programme this week. This should include sessions of 2xWave bouldering, 2xGastons&Throws practice, 2xAnCap, 2xAeroCap, 2xGeneral Strength and 2xFingerboard.Not looking forward to it - I'd much rather fart about on the grit but desperate measures are required
Did some more warm ups then me and Ben got to work unlocking moves on Clamp Arete Sit start 7A+. Good problem, We both did it - Bens first outdoor 7A+ (unless ity gets downgraded).
Wow, that's some weight through the bad left foot hold!
Throws and gaston practice. PM AnCap session Lunch Systems board Gastons and throws practice. PM Tired but managed an AnCap session.Didnt quite manage all the target training sessions
Quote from: shark on December 04, 2016, 06:38:25 pmThrows and gaston practice. PM AnCap session Lunch Systems board Gastons and throws practice. PM Tired but managed an AnCap session.Didnt quite manage all the target training sessionsWhy don't you create an AnCap circuit containing throws and gastons, that'd save you two sessions and you'd get used to fighting through them while powering out.
Swimming always seems to make my thoracic spine/shoulders feel better... or more worked should I say...
Quote from: shark on December 04, 2016, 06:38:25 pmDid some more warm ups then me and Ben got to work unlocking moves on Clamp Arete Sit start 7A+. Good problem, We both did it - Bens first outdoor 7A+ (unless ity gets downgraded). 6C on peakbouldering :/
Quote from: tomtom on December 04, 2016, 07:35:25 pmSwimming always seems to make my thoracic spine/shoulders feel better... or more worked should I say...generating movement and rotation in and around the thoracic is the idea. First few lengths I could barely turn enough to take a breathe but things did improve slightly.
stg - sort neck out, keep up the basics.Mon - Pilates for the first time in an attempt to resolve my back and neck issues. And, as it turns out, another chance for someone to tell me my posture's fucked. Burnt off by a 70 year old. Not sure.Tue - AM - Remergence for a couple of hours with Simon. Unbelievably poor but proved a nice warm up for....Lunch - base fingerboard session 10. Much better, performance as per session 6.Wed - HI AeroCapThu physioFri - AM - LI AeroCap 4x10minsEve - base fb session 11. Very good, slightly better than where I left off before the enforced break. Might be ready to move on to Maxxies but Sat - swim, as suggested by physio to help with neck, c800m. Again, unsure how much it will help.Sun - nowtBeen stretching & foam rolling everyday trying to sort this neck thing out but nothing seems to be helping. It's getting a bit frustrating now, giving yoga a go tomorrow and booked in for a deep tissue massage on Friday. Ommmmm.
Shark, surely a ladder to work blind date is more your style?Blind Date tip: to match the slots some people (me including) find it easier to first bob right hand up onto an inset slopey pebble thing, then go again to RH slot. Doesn't look like much but lifts your chest around the lip so makes it easier.After matching slots you can go straight up to lip with left foot still where it is on the little lip foothold, if pebble is not working for you.If you're getting close on BD i'd just sack off trying lime 7a+s like Jericho Road at all until spring now.
There's a good book called treat your own neck prob pick it up for a few quid* on amazon. Might help 👍