[galpinos]

Throws and gaston practice. PM AnCap session

Lunch Systems board Gastons and throws practice. PM Tired but managed an AnCap session.

Didnt quite manage all the target training sessions

Why don't you create an AnCap circuit containing throws and gastons, that'd save you two sessions and you'd get used to fighting through them while powering out.

Is AnCap strength endurance? The Anderson brothers mention in their TrainingBeta podcast that incorporating dynamic moves into their PE/Strength Endurance/no idea of the terminology workouts the mental gains of being able to make these moves when pumped is as valuable as the physical benefits*.

*or that's what they seemed to be saying to me......

[nai]

Yeah think they were saying you can't climb (or at least redpoint) at you limit without being dynamic so training should incorporate some dynamic  element. Seemed fairly obvious really, you always end up dynamic in the final throws of the final sets.

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[Murph]

basic strength training.....

very little correlation....

The Foxx comment was tongue in cheek (and directed primarily at myself) and I agree the contention that it isn't climbing training and such.

But, I for one could do a lot worse than to follow this simple example. This quest for the perfect training plan (paralysis of analysis) would be better terminated and replaced with 50 pull ups a day. Five sets of ten through the day would produce a helluvan adaptive response! Hmmm.



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[nai]

How about a month of 5x10 or more followed by a pyramid of reduced volume and added weight?

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[Murph]

How about a month of 5x10 or more followed by a pyramid of reduced volume and added weight?

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Sounds like a good challenge! I'm in.


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[36chambers]

This week's podcast - Jamie Foxx. Not obviously training related (but highly recommended nevertheless) it turns out Jamie starts every day with 50 pull ups, 100 press ups and 100 sit ups. That's right, this non-climber does more climbing training than half the members of power club. The habits of successful people, eh?

I thought this kind of thing was included under the guise of secret training. I can't be the only one who holds various things back from my Power Club entry because I know some of my competition friends read UKB...

[Duma]

...
Sleep: Bit poor, need some early nights this week.
...
M: ... (~6.5hrs)
T: ... (~6hrs)
W: ... (~6.5hrs)
T: ... (~6.5hrs)
F: ... (~7hrs)
S: ... (~7hrs)
S: ... (~6hrs)

From over on the blog pile:

http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/2016/12/failure-to-sleep-8hrs-failure-to-train.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed:+TrainingForClimbingBlog+(Training+for+Climbing+Blog)

Really need to go to bed earlier.

[Luke Owens]

...
Sleep: Bit poor, need some early nights this week.
...
M: ... (~6.5hrs)
T: ... (~6hrs)
W: ... (~6.5hrs)
T: ... (~6.5hrs)
F: ... (~7hrs)
S: ... (~7hrs)
S: ... (~6hrs)

From over on the blog pile:

http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/2016/12/failure-to-sleep-8hrs-failure-to-train.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed:+TrainingForClimbingBlog+(Training+for+Climbing+Blog)

Really need to go to bed earlier.

This is interesting, I get about 5 hours sleep a night (bed at 1am - 2am and up at 7am).

I've become completely used to it to the point I don't feel tired in the day but feel like I can't climb my best and on the verge of injury a lot of the time.

It's become a bad habit, I seem to have fallen into the habit by going climbing when the kids are in bed ~7:30pm getting home at 10:15pm, shower/eating/sorting out stuff for the next day takes me to about 11:30pm - 12am, then I finally get to relax for the first time of the day so end up chilling out for an hour or 2... not good. Then on the day's I'm not out it's become so normal to be up so late.

[fried]

My wife's alarm goes off at 6am, so I'd need to actually be sleeping at 10pm. Does anyone with a job really manage 8h per night?

I not only need to move house, I need to give up my job or chuck the missus out.

[Duma]

My alarm goes off at 6:25 - I actually get up at about 6:40. Maybe I should forgo the "snooze" and get straight up at 6:40.

On days for a year atm but spent the last ~11 yrs on shift.

I aim for getting average of 7hrs, but much more seems really hard.

[nai]

going climbing when the kids are in bed ~7:30pm getting home at 10:15pm, shower/eating/sorting out stuff for the next day takes me to about 11:30pm - 12am, then I finally get to relax for the first time of the day so end up chilling out for an hour or 2... not good. Then on the day's I'm not out it's become so normal to be up so late.

Is climbing not relaxing? 

[shark]

Throws and gaston practice. PM AnCap session

Lunch Systems board Gastons and throws practice. PM Tired but managed an AnCap session.

Didnt quite manage all the target training sessions

Why don't you create an AnCap circuit containing throws and gastons, that'd save you two sessions and you'd get used to fighting through them while powering out.

Is AnCap strength endurance? The Anderson brothers mention in their TrainingBeta podcast that incorporating dynamic moves into their PE/Strength Endurance/no idea of the terminology workouts the mental gains of being able to make these moves when pumped is as valuable as the physical benefits*.

*or that's what they seemed to be saying to me......

Sorry - I've not listened to or read anything by the Anderson brothers. Im sure it would only confuse me more than I am already.

Been thinking about this and I think Im going to keep the sessions separate for the time being from the AnCap routine even though both are on the systems board. The throws and gastons practice only takes 20 mins or so after warming up but is  powerful (particularly the throws)

I think it will be better to incorporate the throws and gastons into AeroPower circuits once I've built a bit more of a strength base on those moves. Ill be starting AeroPower sessions in the next 4 weekly cycle. AeroPower has been identified as my biggest (of many) weakness and is a key cause for getting shut down around on the Oak approaching the 2 minute mark

[lagerstarfish]

try finishing all of the climbing in less than 2 mins

 

[shark]

try finishing all of the climbing in less than 2 mins

 

 

[nai]

Been thinking about this and I think Im going to keep the sessions separate for the time being from the AnCap routine even though both are on the systems board.

I think it will be better to incorporate the throws and gastons into AeroPower circuits once I've built a bit more of a strength base on those moves. Ill be starting AeroPower sessions in the next 4 weekly cycle. AeroPower has been identified as my biggest (of many) weakness and is a key cause for getting shut down around on the Oak approaching the 2 minute mark

Knew you'd say that..

But maybe your weakness in AnCap is why you can't keep pulling through the moves despite being pumped.



Likely a bit of both

Not what I'd do and I reckon at least one of your weekly AnCap sessions should involve proper climbing (for injury prevention if nothing else, to avoid doing 12 sets of the same set of intensive moves twice a week is asking for trouble?) but realise you're just trying to fit everything in around life.

[Luke Owens]

going climbing when the kids are in bed ~7:30pm getting home at 10:15pm, shower/eating/sorting out stuff for the next day takes me to about 11:30pm - 12am, then I finally get to relax for the first time of the day so end up chilling out for an hour or 2... not good. Then on the day's I'm not out it's become so normal to be up so late.

Is climbing not relaxing? 

Ha, It is mentally relaxing but not physically... Maybe "first time I get to sit down and do nothing" would of been a better way of putting it.

[galpinos]

Ha, It is mentally relaxing but not physically... Maybe "first time I get to sit down and do nothing" would of been a better way of putting it.

Instead of sitting down doing nothing you could lie down doing nothing.....with your eyes closed......in bed.....in your jimmy jams?

[Luke Owens]

Ha, It is mentally relaxing but not physically... Maybe "first time I get to sit down and do nothing" would of been a better way of putting it.

Instead of sitting down doing nothing you could lie down doing nothing.....with your eyes closed......in bed.....in your jimmy jams?

I quite like sitting down doing nothing... but yes going to bed would be a better idea, just need to break the staying up late habit.

[Ally Smith]

DMAC says to go to bed too

http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.nl/2016/12/failure-to-sleep-8hrs-failure-to-train.html

[Duma]

DMAC says to go to bed too

http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.nl/2016/12/failure-to-sleep-8hrs-failure-to-train.html

yes.


like I said.

http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/2016/12/failure-to-sleep-8hrs-failure-to-train.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed:+TrainingForClimbingBlog+(Training+for+Climbing+Blog)

Really need to go to bed earlier.

[Luke Owens]

DMAC says to go to bed too

http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.nl/2016/12/failure-to-sleep-8hrs-failure-to-train.html

 

[tomtom]

Since the arrival of TT jnr I've got by on c.6 hours a night...

Frustratingly, when I'm away from home (with work) I am now in the habit of only sleeping for 6 hours so not able to take advantage....

[Duma]

Yeah that's the thing - I can "function" on 6ish, "get by" on 6.5, 7 feels "normal".
But I find it very difficult to get more even ignoring time constraints, as I wake up anyway after about 7 hrs, really I only get more if I spend >9hrs in bed and give myself time to doze.
And apparently I need to be getting even more to train effectively...

[Duma]

Yeah that's the thing - I can "function" on 6ish, "get by" on 6.5, 7 feels "normal".
But I find it very difficult to get more even ignoring time constraints, as I wake up anyway after about 7 hrs, really I only get more if I spend >9hrs in bed and give myself time to doze.
And apparently I need to be getting even more to train effectively...

[nai]

Power nap?

https://ylmsportscience.com/2016/12/06/sleep-habits-during-intensified-training-periods/