[tomtom]

A week plastique...

M:
T: SpockCity, Hull. No Leonard Nimoy, but I did bump into Dave M who I'd not seen for a while & was good to catch up and get mutually frustrated by problems. Discovered they'd re-set the sandpaper-room boiler room area and got rid of my favourite nearly can do problems. Still - a decent session
W:
Th: Depot at Lunchtime. Felt awful - like a low level all day hangover. It started on the weds and lasted for about 48 hours.. I get these from time to time - not sure why. Anyway, I was shit. Somehow managed to last 90 min there - nearly gagged over a coffee (its good java there..)... went home...
Fr: I moved into another year on the planet... Parents came over to visit grandson and provided babysitting opportunity. Got wasted on a G&T and two glasses of wine... oh and the weather was SHITE.
Sa: Parents left - had opportunity to climb after 12 - but weather was SHITE. Cooked various curry dishes for evening entertainment (couple of friends over). Ate lots slept.
Su: This really is one of the more uninspiring power club entries I've written. Talk about trying to glam up a pretty dull week. I think I need to jazz things up a bit. Maybe insult Shark a bit more ~ or something like that.. Anyway.. MrsTT had some all day teleconference shizz thing to do so I was minding TTjnr. We walked alot. Well, I walked alot, and he sat in a pram and gurgled/slept/gurgled/slept/dribbled. Finally had climbing clearance and went to the Depot.. Good session TBH (for plastic) - bumped into (I'm really sorry I don't know your name!) one of the gents who was at Fatnecks Ysgo weekender last year and had a good chat. I managed a purple I hadn't done before - and burned off someone strong on one of the reds he looked to be having a mare with. Well, I waited until he had left and then flashed it - so thats not really a burn off is it. Blah blah blah blah...

Anyway, where was I....

[Wood FT]

I managed a purple I hadn't done before - and burned off someone strong on one of the reds he looked to be having a mare with. Well, I waited until he had left and then flashed it - so thats not really a burn off is it. Blah blah blah blah...

Anyway, where was I....

99% a burn off but you should've shouted "he knows he's done well" hanging from the finishing jug with vanquished fo within earshot

[tomtom]

I managed a purple I hadn't done before - and burned off someone strong on one of the reds he looked to be having a mare with. Well, I waited until he had left and then flashed it - so thats not really a burn off is it. Blah blah blah blah...

Anyway, where was I....

99% a burn off but you should've shouted "he knows he's done well" hanging from the finishing jug with vanquished fo within earshot

I think he'd left the building.

I'm not much of a "FUCK YEAH - IN YOUR FACE MOTHER FUCKER" shouter type... except the many times I burn off Shark*..

*who's probably right now in the mobile/internet blackspot that is CragX

[T_B]

M - LI AeroCap. Felt surprisingly decent.
T - lunch Max Hangs. Warm ups then 3 x half crimp 25kg, 3 x middle 2 7kg, 2 x pinches 25kg l and r, but was using balls that felt too wrist tweaky. P.M. Wave nu set. 2hrs bouldering.
W - rest
T - Wave lunch. Warm up then 5 sets of L2 4x4s in 30 mins. P.M. Slumped at desk.
F - LI AeroCap
S - Ended up getting afternoon slot. EWood. Sunny but breezy. Basically mint but a bit too cold for me. 8 yrs since I last climbed here, so needed to work out the trav again. Did r-l inc Bonjoy's start first rp (just), didn't like the pockets on RR, spent ages working out middle section of reverse trav, then slipped off after middle bit a couple of times (tired/numb toes?). Then gunfire and we volunteered to leave when a man with a shotgun arrived who informed us there was a shoot 😐
S -

[tommytwotone]

Similarly uninspiring week for me...


Spent the whole of it stressed and not eating / sleeping properly after continuation of problems with drains (and their unsuccessful repair) at our house.


Culminated in an entertaining Saturday using my 4-hour window of opportunity to climb staying in to have a guy out to  pump a shin-deep cocktail of raw sewage and rainwater out of our cellar, only for it to have filled back up to ankle deep again by last night.


Other than that, I bought a foam roller and did some thoracic spine exercises, which seems to have helped my ongoing elbow problems (or perhaps I've just found something else more important to focus on!)...

[36chambers]

STG: Yorkshire classics
MTG:
LTG: 8B

M: Shoulder mobility
T: Indoors. 30 board. 2-5 moves on bad holds, good session.
W: Deadlifts
T: Indoors. 50 board. 1-4 moves on the smallest holds. Set some futuristic projects using holds/positions that I can barely hold in isolation. Most of the moves are actually pretty small. However, all I've managed so far is moving from some of the bad holds to "jugs" next to the holds I want to use and so forth. I love board climbing.
F:
S: Kendal Mountain Festival. Bumped into and got an awkward picture with Niall Grimes
S: Kentmere. Glorious day with snow everywhere but on the boulders. How a short play on Tourniquet 7C+/8A and now have the beta sorted and also made some good links. 

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - board climbing, very little volume, two goes on the circuit project, back to PB on second go. Light session.
Tue - rest.
Wed - foot on campusing +10 kg x10, hard, bad skin. Low int. PE, 2'30", poor but hopefully due to the previous routine. 25' boxing bag. Hard.
Thu - muscle snatch 5x5 36 kg. Climbing class.
Fri - rest, maybe, can't remember.
Sat - muscle snatch 2x3 41 kg, 5x5 36 kg; cleans 5x5 46 kg; 40' boxing bag. Exhausting, brilliant.
Sun - a couple of goes on circuit, poor. Temps back up to 18 degrees and 75% humidity. Dumbbell thruster 10x10. Shoulder walk 30"x5 46 kg, brutal.

Another heavy week, six days dining out. Lots of wine. Must sort things out. Mounted new lights at the board, fantastic.

[andy_e]

STG: Yorkshire classics

All of them?

[36chambers]

STG: Yorkshire classics

All of them?

Just the ones I have yet to done, which is only a few

[shark]

. except the many times I burn off Shark*..

*who's probably right now in the mobile/internet blackspot that is CragX

Keep fantasising. Back now - crag dry  but connies not so good 

[Duma]

Goals:
Good winter bouldering season,
8A (Hunters Roof? Full Power?)and 8b by next June
In shape for SA next summer.

Body Audit: fingers ok, R shoulder starting to complain after fairly heavy week, but hopefully yesterdays attention to it will help.

Sleep decent.

M: TCA, tweak of sequence meant finally got one of the two remaining Yellows, seemed to find this one really hard relative to others opinions. bit more work on Mothership green, no progress. Repeated some other steep stuff though. (~7hrs)
T: Bloc, very brief session as admin before overran, nothing to compare to here so not sure how well I was going, did a couple of fun things that felt tricky though (~7hrs)
W: TCA, can't remember, can't have been much of a session (~6.5hrs)
T: Redpoint, Winter series comp, only realised it was on mid afternoon but had decent go I think, completed all problems, 176 out of possible 200 IIRC (~6hrs)
F: Nothing, 2hrs amateur tree surgery which was fun though. (~6hrs)
S: TCA aft, Good session with a few folk down. Got the moves and 2 halves on one of 2 whites (last comp set) I'd not done, didn't quite have the beans for the link though. Then moved over to the other white - went reasonably quick so happy with that as I'd failed on this a couple of weeks ago. Then round to the Mothership, actually managed some micro progress on the green (holding move to sloper without accidental cheating toehook, then almost holding match)  (~8hrs)
S: TCA aft, greens (4 - 6A) to warm up, then load of core and shoulder stuff (~7hrs)

Fairly heavy week, 6 sessions, though a couple of them were short. Not climbing today and prob not tomorrow depending on how I feel.

69kg

[Sasquatch]

M-Notta
T-FB Max Hangs and repeaters.  Decent session.
W-Work/Travel
T-Work
F-Work
S-Routes at wall with Wife - OS 5 x 5.12...  Not bad for not having done any endurance in months...
S-Notta

[sxrxg]

Good session TBH (for plastic) - bumped into (I'm really sorry I don't know your name!) one of the gents who was at Fatnecks Ysgo weekender last year and had a good chat.

Good to meet you again Tom (it's Ste BTW), maybe see you at the Depot or the crag again soon.

[tomtom]

Hi Ste! I'm rubbish with names- good to see you and family again.

[Coops_13]

TG: Heal elbow, try to climb
MTG: More 7b/+s
LTG: 8A

M:
T:
W:
T: Arch to test out elbow as hadn't had symptoms for four days. Only lasted an hour after symptoms returned, not looking good for font!
F: Drove to Font overnight, torrential rain on the way. Bivvied in Apremont car park
S: Apremont, surprise tick of Crazy Horse after not too much time. Video here, excuse my mate's horrendous ticks:

Tried Onde de Choc, fingers not strong enough for that crimp Went to Clandestino at end of the day and ticked the left version. Spent the rest of the time trying some 7A to the right before smashing a massive steak 
S: Rain arrived, set the tarp up over Rudeboy in 95.2. Got close, couldn't do the last move after all the rest, knackered after the previous day

Elbow was fine in Font, sore at the end but no symptoms! Perhaps they were over-ridden by adrenaline and psyche. Will try a wall session after a couple of days of rest.

[fried]

Is your mate blind?

[Coops_13]

Is your mate blind?

they didn't help him

[filz]

 STG - Train more consistently and do more specific training.

M-T: nothing
W: board session. Theraband exercises for shoulders
T: bm max hangs
F: board climbing with friends. Hard session.
S-S: nothing

[Will Hunt]

STG: FA Project


Hmmm. What did I do?

Tues: Board sesh.
Thurs - Fri: Shoulder feeling funny
Saturday: Decided to go to Gate House Crag as was entertaining punters who haven't climbed in a while. Driving up that way was being bombarded with texts and calls from the other car decrying the weather and saying we ought to turn back. Full snowstorm scenes in Nidderdale. Got to parking for Gate House and we were on the edge of the storm. Drove on to Plan B - Slipstones. Gorgeous blue skies and cold temps. Felt very smug about calling the weather right. Pottered around on easy things. Ticked off Sulky Little Boys using an odd sequence and did a nice 6C traverse that was quite tough. Got shut down by a 6A+ dyno! Proper grades! MAKE YORKSHIRE HARD AGAIN! Then went to Black Sheep Brewery for the tour when the rain eventually arrived.

Forgot to order new shoes. As I write this I have got new shoes which are reeeeeaally stiff and will take ages to break in. So the assault on the project this weekend will (hopefully) have a good skin day, a good conditions day, but not a good shoe rubber day. Balls.

[36chambers]

Forgot to order new shoes. As I write this I have got new shoes which are reeeeeaally stiff and will take ages to break in. So the assault on the project this weekend will (hopefully) have a good skin day, a good conditions day, but not a good shoe rubber day. Balls.

You are starting to sound more and more like Shark.

[Footwork]

Give him a pair of glasses and the resemblance is uncanny 

[Will Hunt]

Forgot to order new shoes. As I write this I have got new shoes which are reeeeeaally stiff and will take ages to break in. So the assault on the project this weekend will (hopefully) have a good skin day, a good conditions day, but not a good shoe rubber day. Balls.

You are starting to sound more and more like Shark.

What in particular is the Sharkesque quality? Is it selecting a project that you will find genuinely difficult? One day, I believe you will pick such a project.

[Luke Owens]

M: 2 x 10mins LI-Aerocap

T: Lunch - 2 x 10mins LI-Aerocap

Eve - Plas Power - 2 x 10mins LI-Aerocap

Realised board is 45 degrees and not 40 which would explain why the moon hold setup/problems feel harder than their grades.

Tried a 6B+ a few times and couldn't stick the last move, also tried the 6B+ from last week, almost stuck the crux.

4 laps getting to move 14 on proj replica with 3 mins rest between goes. AnCap territory.

5 x 1min on 2min off HI-AeroCap

5min ARC warm down.

W: Plas Power - 2 x 10mins LI-Aerocap

Felt really sore/tweaky, tried 6B+ on board again, worse than yesterday.

1 lap on 16 move replica.

5 x 1min on 1min off HI-Aerocap

10 mins LI-Aerocap

T: Rest - Arms/Fingers really sore, achey and tight...

F: Rest - Same as above.

S: Roaches - Ace to be out on the grit again, first time at the Roaches, did:

5+
6A
Joe's Arete - 6A
6C+ Eliminate to the right - felt more like 6B+
Drunk Enough - 6C+ - felt more like 6B+/C
Left Groove - 6B

Also tried but failed on Too Drunk, felt nails. Legless Limbo Dancer, almost did it. Could of done Sleeping with the Flowers if I had spent some more time on it too I reckon.

S: Rest

[tomtom]

Forgot to order new shoes. As I write this I have got new shoes which are reeeeeaally stiff and will take ages to break in. So the assault on the project this weekend will (hopefully) have a good skin day, a good conditions day, but not a good shoe rubber day. Balls.

You are starting to sound more and more like Shark.

If I'd never met Will, I'd have thought more Brian Blessed (with or without glasses)

[Coops_13]

Forgot to order new shoes. As I write this I have got new shoes which are reeeeeaally stiff and will take ages to break in. So the assault on the project this weekend will (hopefully) have a good skin day, a good conditions day, but not a good shoe rubber day. Balls.

You are starting to sound more and more like Shark.

If I'd never met Will, I'd have thought more Brian Blessed (with or without glasses)

He'd have to be able to grow a beard first