[fried]

STG - Try to get out on some rock before the end of the year
MTG - Spend the winter trying hard ready for the 3 days of good spring weather
LTG - 7A by 50

Looks like the grey drizzle is here 'til March

M - Rest
T - Indoor, feeling good, ticked off a lot of new 6A/B stuff, have a feeling the grading gone even softer.
W-
Th -
Fr - Started seriously looking at a 6C problem that I had a quick look at on Tuesday, seemed tough at first then managed to link the bottom two section, now just need to do the finish. Hardest thing I've tried in a while.

Sa - Good connies, but I'm at home with visitors, convince myself I don't climb well in the cold. Drinks...
Su - Planned to do another indoor session, wolfed down a rare plate of sausage and fried eggs, felt ropey, laid on the sofa all day.

[Falling Down]

Back on the wagon.  Trip to France in Feb with some mates booked.  Will set goals next weekend once I've figured out where I am fitness wise.

M-S 2 x 15 press-ups each morning and an easy cycle to/from work. 
S - First trip to the wall in some time.  Easy circuit to ease back into it. 15-20 problems up to V2 and nice to catchup with with Bridbeast.  Good fun and didn't feel too sluggish.

[shark]

Thanks fried

Again.

10.12-11.2

M. Noon. Went to Crag X. Condensed to fuck. Rubicon the same. Drove to Foundry to have an experiment with Lattice board. Bumped into Dolly aand he persuaded me to have fun and boulder. Monkey Boy and Rob were resetting on the Wave for the comp so we had a good time testing out all the level 2's which were mainly softer than usual. Got Dave to set a replica of the Oak throw but he was reluctant to set a gaston traverse as well. Eve Sport massage and Yoga

T.

W. Crag X Headed out more in hope than expectation. Was dry! (but a bit glassy). Took longer to do the top link. Really struggling to get enough purchase on left crimp on rail and the pinch. Very frustrating. Had a final good go by headtorch. Eve Peak Area meet

T. 

F. Crag X. Afternoon. Headed out in the most unlikely of conditions expecting to just go for a drive and a walk and of course Crag X was dry. Holds felt marginally grippier than Weds. Did the top link at third attempt. Two goes touching the slot then a very late go in failing light getting the slot with my left! - right foot then cut loose but reeled it in then went for the large crimp and got it! left foot then popped and couldn't reel it in and was back on the mat. Noooo. A highpoint though. Just one foot move and two easyish hand moves short of m.atching the flake Eve Curry, bottle of wine and a large bar of chocolate

S. After much agonizing over potential venues decided to check out Millstone with the boys. Blue skies and Baltic. Team Foundry turned up to support mit on Masters Edge. Did Technical Master. Paul Reeve didn't. Just saying like. Then tried out the left hand 6C version which was superb. Topped out and scrambled to the top of the crag. Then tried the left hand without the seam with turboman which was frustrating – scarcely got off the ground . Very cold so we finished early.       

S.

This was meant to be an easier week. And it was – but only just. The lattice board benchmarking session planned with Paul and Keith and Thursday was put back to this coming thursday.

Would like to start fingerboarding but despite lots of care and attention only just about keeping the swelling in the mid two on my left hand at bay so almost certainly not a good idea to push them even more. Probably should have a proper week off to get them sorted. Seems to get better when I have rest days and get worse when I repeatedly crimp the fuck out of the rail on Jericho Road. There might be a correlation but the sample size is small.

Back also keeps playing up despite nightly stretching. With additional massage and yoga seems a lot better this week as I write. Booked in for yoga again tomorrow night with Mrs Shark. Maybe this time I will “feel the energy in the room”. 

Been interesting frustrating on JR doing micro adjustments of technique and using hips and momentum more than I would normally. The crux for me is the move to the pinch where I have to concentrate on far too many things at once ie boning the glassy crimp with left hand, keep the left foot tensioned in the heel toe whilst pressing up with the hips and right toe and then getting the pinch quickly which is an awkward shape and hard to hold.

Going to check out Crag X again tomorrow morning. Bit of a longshot though.

[Murph]

Goals
STG - an ad hoc strength phase, some ego flattering outside stuff, planning
MTG - power, Advanced Training 7C/+
LTG - rubicon 8A

M- bodyweight routine. Tried Nai's recommended press up routine of 15 slow reps in 1minute with no rests. Man it hurts.
T- matrix lunchtime session. 30 easy problems then tried campusing on their jugs. Couldn't even do 1-3-5 with both sides. Dunno maybe this is a hard board.
W- work. Long train journey. Listened to v interesting podcast about a guy called Pavel Tsatsouline. He makes people strong apparently. No idea how to fit his recommendations into my routine tho. Fingerboard max hangs and one armers. Oh my the one armers were hard. How many times will I make the mistake of trying to train strength/power without being 100% rested....even still, managed 6 seconds 43kgs with two hands on smallest BM hold
T- work
F- kids/accidental rest.
S- more rest
S- first works session in a couple of months. Wasps. An awe inspiring display of shaky legs and uncoordinated fumbling....

Weight - 64. I think I'm going to have to settle for this really. I can't be arsed getting to project weight when I am months away from being in a position to lock horns with a project.

Aim for next week: consistency. Not accidentally training three days then resting three days.  And one armers with properly calibrated pulley assistance.

[Muenchener]

STG: Get to the top of a moonboard by any means whatsoever.
MTG (Spring 2017): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: Half hour shoulder rehab/mobility
T:   
W: School holiday in Bavaria. Took the day off work for a lads' outing with M jnr but then we were both too ill to go out. Felt a little better in the evening so did a session of Beastmaker max hangs
T:
F: Boulderwelt. Short late evening session. I am so far out of my depth on the moonboard.
S: Half hour shoulder rehab/mobility whilst listening to the trainingbeta shoulder physio podcast.
S: Drove to Garmisch to check out a supposedly sunny bouldering spot that my mate thought had a chance of being dry. Nope. Everything was absolutely soaked, and a couple of hours of weak late Autumn sunshine peeking over the mountains clearly wasn't going to achieve much by way of drying anything. At least we tried. Bailed to a bouldering wall nearby at Weyarn.

[petejh]

STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), in July October, November
MTG:
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Dying of flu phase.


Monday - Sunday: dying of flu.


Never known a cold like this, if mucus was worth something I'd be rich.


That's the end of the year's rock goals for me.
Didn't achieve what I set out to in 2016, in terms of routes climbed it's my least productive climbing year in recent times but I feel like I've banked some bouldering and training strength for the spring. Plus seen a lots of new places through the year - Frankenjura, Tarn, Devoluey, Fairhead, Mournes, Cooleys, Glendalough, Dalkey, developing new Irish crag x. Also nice to revisit Orpierre and Ceuse. 
On to winter climbing schedule when this flu finally loosens its grip. Plan to fingerboard or boulder once per week most weeks through the winter and start rock mileage in late Feb/early March. Finally finish bolting two brilliant semi-bolted projs so they're ready for the spring, one in the quarries one on little orme.
Booked ice-climbing trip to Cogne with girlfriend for early Jan woohoo. Following this well-worn trajectory it'll be aid-climbing by next autumn, dangerous snow-walking by spring 2017, hill-walking 8c (cuillin?) by autumn 2017.

[tomtom]

Those last 'easy' moves on JR might seem easy when fresh - but I dropped them a couple of times on attempts. Worth practicing - spotting your foot placements for these last moves so it's wired. It's 6A move or something but at the end of all that....

[shark]

Those last 'easy' moves on JR might seem easy when fresh - but I dropped them a couple of times on attempts. Worth practicing - spotting your foot placements for these last moves so it's wired. It's 6A move or something but at the end of all that....

This might represent the top end of endurance for you but its at the bottom end for me.

I'm expecting to eat these words

[webbo]

Those last 'easy' moves on JR might seem easy when fresh - but I dropped them a couple of times on attempts. Worth practicing - spotting your foot placements for these last moves so it's wired. It's 6A move or something but at the end of all that....

This might represent the top end of endurance for you but its at the bottom end for me.

I'm expecting to eat these words

No wonder your weight keeps going up and down.

[shark]

Those last 'easy' moves on JR might seem easy when fresh - but I dropped them a couple of times on attempts. Worth practicing - spotting your foot placements for these last moves so it's wired. It's 6A move or something but at the end of all that....

This might represent the top end of endurance for you but its at the bottom end for me.

I'm expecting to eat these words

No wonder your weight keeps going up and down.

TT fanbois

[tomtom]

Those last 'easy' moves on JR might seem easy when fresh - but I dropped them a couple of times on attempts. Worth practicing - spotting your foot placements for these last moves so it's wired. It's 6A move or something but at the end of all that....

Oh, and climb faster xx

[shark]

Oh, and climb faster xx

 

[tomtom]

Can I say I burnt you off on this in the GBBO thread?

[shark]

Can I say I burnt you off on this in the GBBO thread?

You really are scraping the bottom of the barrel. I'm sure you must have outlanked someone other than massive archoutlanker Dave Parry

[tomtom]

Can I say I burnt you off on this in the GBBO thread?

You really are scraping the bottom of the barrel. I'm sure you must have outlanked someone other than massive archoutlanker Dave Parry

My climbing career is based on barrel scraping... speaking of which I'm sure I reached the porthole on WSS before you..

Lagerstarfish taught me well...

[Dolly]

M. Fun with Shark on the Wave-see his post
T.
W. Wave again. Did 2 level 3s which is good for me. Peak Area BMC meeting in the evening. Somehow managed to drink too much. Got the train back to Dore and with the advantage of beer logic decided to walk the 3.2 miles home (according to Google Maps) as quickly as possible to compensate. Walked like a nutter, then realised I was starving after Shark and I snootily refused the chips on offer at the BMC meeting. Thankfully every takeaway on the way back was shut - until the very last one. So... I had chips with salad and thoroughly enjoyed every single dirty mouthful.
T. About 10 routes at gym between 6a and 6c+
F. Gym Core
S. Walk around Curbar with the girls. Felt cold. Routes at gym again between 6b and 7a.
S.


Just need some goof weather to coincide with my allotted/available time

[shark]

My climbing career is based on barrel scraping... speaking of which I'm sure I reached the porthole on WSS before you..

You started on it a year before me

Not that I'm counting of course 

[nai]

My climbing career is based on barrel scraping... speaking of which I'm sure I reached the porthole on WSS before you..

You started on it a year before me

Not that I'm counting of course 

and you've reached the top of course

[nai]

Goals on hold

Mon - more painting and furniture shifting

Tue - yet  more painting and furniture shifting
base FB session 7 - changed my footblock to a smaller one. Either made it too easy or I totaly smashed it.

Wed - plan had been eatswood but a bad night's sleep and not ideal weather brought on a dose of CBA so opted for cleaning up and getting straight after the painting 

Thu -

AM - base FB session 8 - footblock made higher, intensity about right, fingers wilting final reps of last two sets.  Good.

Noon-  Physio.

PM -  LI AeroCap on autobelays - 3 sets averaged about 12 mins per set

Fri, Sat, Sun - neck & shoulders really tight and sore and an elbow niggle I've always thought to be referred started to feel like a real problem, opted to can training until after next physio session and just hammer the recovery and mobility exercises.

[shurt]

Was on holiday last week and did nothing apart from a few press ups and couldn't be arsed. drank, beach with the kids watched the surfers was nice.

last week

mon - back from hols
tues - nothing
wed - 2 sets of fingerboard, then could only manage 8 pull ups after rest
thurs - 10 pull ups
friday - 3 sets on fingerbaord lunchtime then 2 x 10 then 6 (couldn’t do any more) pull ups in eve timed rest in between
sat - 3 x 10 pulls ups with times rest then could only 6
sun - nothing

Pretty good week all in all after a complete rest week. Realised I did over 100 pull ups (128), can't remember the last time I managed that.

Weather permitting I should be getting out bouldering next weekend so looking forward to that.

[moose]

My climbing career is based on barrel scraping... speaking of which I'm sure I reached the porthole on WSS before you..

You started on it a year before me

Not that I'm counting of course 

Play nice children. Or I'll come over and show you who's boss in the prized fields of both lank and slowness.

[measles23]

Thanks fried

Listened to v interesting podcast about a guy called Pavel Tsatsouline. He makes people strong apparently. No idea how to fit his recommendations into my routine tho.

He did a book with Andy Bolton called Deadlift Dynamite - it's OK but not revolutionary; no idea how to translate it to climbing but don't care as he's not Bulgarian  :

M- 1. BM2k 2-arm open crimp on small crimps, max hangs 9 sets up to +45 x 2s
     2. Finger pull-ups (ie open hand to open crimp and back - is there a better name for these?) 5 sets 2-arm on BM2k big crimps up to +10 x 2

T- 1. BM2k 1-arm 3 finger drag left 'eye': 6 sets up to +5 x5s
    2. Weighted pull-ups 6 sets up to +40 x 3

W - 1. BM2k 2-arm open crimp on small crimps, max hangs 9 sets up to +45 x 3s
      2. Finger pull-ups on good hold: 5 sets up to +10 x 2

T- 1. BM2k 1-arm 3 finger drag left 'eye': 6 sets up to +5 x8s
    2. Weighted pull-ups 6 sets up to +45 x 3
    3. Pinch lifts (weights hanging from 2x3 block): 5 sets up to +20 x 5s

F- 1. BM2k 2-arm open crimp on small crimps, max hangs 9 sets up to +45 x 4s
    2. Finger pull-ups on good hold: 5 sets up to +15 x 2
    3. BM2k 1-arm pulley assisted open crimp on central crimp hold: 6 sets up to -10 x 5s

S- Rest, Santa train (yes it IS Christmas already!!), puppet show, Fantastic beasts at cinema..
S- Stoke AW kids club - tried pulling on in my 1989 rainbow coloured EBs (only boots I can squeeze my dicky foot into! Leg said no very quickly so stopped... patience....

So 9 straight days on the fingerboard - I'm calling this 'Bulgarian method' after the 80s Bulgarian oly lifting team who punched way above their weight by throwing out traditional ideas of periodisation and rest.. Basically high frequency, high intensity but low volume per exercise (Shark didn't you briefly mention this a few years back?)

Anyway I'm reasonably happy with first foray - certainly fingers have acclimatised well with no tail-off, if anything slight increase in performance despite lack of rest - also feeling very un-tweaky despite no taping...

At least another 6 wks to continue this experiment..

[TobyD]

Mon short walk early morning, gym
Tue turbo session early morning, gym
Wed turbo session early morning, gym
Thu turbo session early morning, gym
Fri Turbo session, bit of core and stretching evening
Sat turbo session early morning, gym.
Sun turbo session early morning, gym

Gym sessions vary but mostly upper body strength exercise with some weighted squats, leg press, and some core, dorsal raises. Had planned wall visit or two but partner injured, ironically, and lacked any motivation to travel to get on an auto belay, when it's easy to walk down the road and lift bits of metal up.

[shark]

So 9 straight days on the fingerboard - I'm calling this 'Bulgarian method' after the 80s Bulgarian oly lifting team who punched way above their weight by throwing out traditional ideas of periodisation and rest.. Basically high frequency, high intensity but low volume per exercise (Shark didn't you briefly mention this a few years back?)

I think it was based on an article based on the ideas of a guy called ...Pavel Tsatsouline.

[webbo]

Mon. Looking after grandson am. Pm board working on recent problems but using screw on footholds, did a couple.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Went to Red Goat wall in York, not be to a wall for over 18 months. Just did easy circuits got spanked by stuff graded V3/V4. Did a lot of climbing.
Fri. Turbo 1 min on 1off x 10 pus warm up and down. Went out on the road later, forgot my drink, got pissed on and punctured. Not much fun really.
Sat. Board trying more problems with screw on feet did a couple more. Bike went out in the dark to try out new lights. Out about one and half hours, computer doesn't work when lights in flashing mode. Lights work well.
Sun. Nothing.

[tomtom]

A week plastique...

M:
T: SpockCity, Hull. No Leonard Nimoy, but I did bump into Dave M who I'd not seen for a while & was good to catch up and get mutually frustrated by problems. Discovered they'd re-set the sandpaper-room boiler room area and got rid of my favourite nearly can do problems. Still - a decent session
W:
Th: Depot at Lunchtime. Felt awful - like a low level all day hangover. It started on the weds and lasted for about 48 hours.. I get these from time to time - not sure why. Anyway, I was shit. Somehow managed to last 90 min there - nearly gagged over a coffee (its good java there..)... went home...
Fr: I moved into another year on the planet... Parents came over to visit grandson and provided babysitting opportunity. Got wasted on a G&T and two glasses of wine... oh and the weather was SHITE.
Sa: Parents left - had opportunity to climb after 12 - but weather was SHITE. Cooked various curry dishes for evening entertainment (couple of friends over). Ate lots slept.
Su: This really is one of the more uninspiring power club entries I've written. Talk about trying to glam up a pretty dull week. I think I need to jazz things up a bit. Maybe insult Shark a bit more ~ or something like that.. Anyway.. MrsTT had some all day teleconference shizz thing to do so I was minding TTjnr. We walked alot. Well, I walked alot, and he sat in a pram and gurgled/slept/gurgled/slept/dribbled. Finally had climbing clearance and went to the Depot.. Good session TBH (for plastic) - bumped into (I'm really sorry I don't know your name!) one of the gents who was at Fatnecks Ysgo weekender last year and had a good chat. I managed a purple I hadn't done before - and burned off someone strong on one of the reds he looked to be having a mare with. Well, I waited until he had left and then flashed it - so thats not really a burn off is it. Blah blah blah blah...

Anyway, where was I....

[Wood FT]

I managed a purple I hadn't done before - and burned off someone strong on one of the reds he looked to be having a mare with. Well, I waited until he had left and then flashed it - so thats not really a burn off is it. Blah blah blah blah...

Anyway, where was I....

99% a burn off but you should've shouted "he knows he's done well" hanging from the finishing jug with vanquished fo within earshot

[tomtom]

I managed a purple I hadn't done before - and burned off someone strong on one of the reds he looked to be having a mare with. Well, I waited until he had left and then flashed it - so thats not really a burn off is it. Blah blah blah blah...

Anyway, where was I....

99% a burn off but you should've shouted "he knows he's done well" hanging from the finishing jug with vanquished fo within earshot

I think he'd left the building.

I'm not much of a "FUCK YEAH - IN YOUR FACE MOTHER FUCKER" shouter type... except the many times I burn off Shark*..

*who's probably right now in the mobile/internet blackspot that is CragX

[T_B]

M - LI AeroCap. Felt surprisingly decent.
T - lunch Max Hangs. Warm ups then 3 x half crimp 25kg, 3 x middle 2 7kg, 2 x pinches 25kg l and r, but was using balls that felt too wrist tweaky. P.M. Wave nu set. 2hrs bouldering.
W - rest
T - Wave lunch. Warm up then 5 sets of L2 4x4s in 30 mins. P.M. Slumped at desk.
F - LI AeroCap
S - Ended up getting afternoon slot. EWood. Sunny but breezy. Basically mint but a bit too cold for me. 8 yrs since I last climbed here, so needed to work out the trav again. Did r-l inc Bonjoy's start first rp (just), didn't like the pockets on RR, spent ages working out middle section of reverse trav, then slipped off after middle bit a couple of times (tired/numb toes?). Then gunfire and we volunteered to leave when a man with a shotgun arrived who informed us there was a shoot 😐
S -

[tommytwotone]

Similarly uninspiring week for me...


Spent the whole of it stressed and not eating / sleeping properly after continuation of problems with drains (and their unsuccessful repair) at our house.


Culminated in an entertaining Saturday using my 4-hour window of opportunity to climb staying in to have a guy out to  pump a shin-deep cocktail of raw sewage and rainwater out of our cellar, only for it to have filled back up to ankle deep again by last night.


Other than that, I bought a foam roller and did some thoracic spine exercises, which seems to have helped my ongoing elbow problems (or perhaps I've just found something else more important to focus on!)...

[36chambers]

STG: Yorkshire classics
MTG:
LTG: 8B

M: Shoulder mobility
T: Indoors. 30 board. 2-5 moves on bad holds, good session.
W: Deadlifts
T: Indoors. 50 board. 1-4 moves on the smallest holds. Set some futuristic projects using holds/positions that I can barely hold in isolation. Most of the moves are actually pretty small. However, all I've managed so far is moving from some of the bad holds to "jugs" next to the holds I want to use and so forth. I love board climbing.
F:
S: Kendal Mountain Festival. Bumped into and got an awkward picture with Niall Grimes
S: Kentmere. Glorious day with snow everywhere but on the boulders. How a short play on Tourniquet 7C+/8A and now have the beta sorted and also made some good links. 

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - board climbing, very little volume, two goes on the circuit project, back to PB on second go. Light session.
Tue - rest.
Wed - foot on campusing +10 kg x10, hard, bad skin. Low int. PE, 2'30", poor but hopefully due to the previous routine. 25' boxing bag. Hard.
Thu - muscle snatch 5x5 36 kg. Climbing class.
Fri - rest, maybe, can't remember.
Sat - muscle snatch 2x3 41 kg, 5x5 36 kg; cleans 5x5 46 kg; 40' boxing bag. Exhausting, brilliant.
Sun - a couple of goes on circuit, poor. Temps back up to 18 degrees and 75% humidity. Dumbbell thruster 10x10. Shoulder walk 30"x5 46 kg, brutal.

Another heavy week, six days dining out. Lots of wine. Must sort things out. Mounted new lights at the board, fantastic.

[andy_e]

STG: Yorkshire classics

All of them?

[36chambers]

STG: Yorkshire classics

All of them?

Just the ones I have yet to done, which is only a few

[shark]

. except the many times I burn off Shark*..

*who's probably right now in the mobile/internet blackspot that is CragX

Keep fantasising. Back now - crag dry  but connies not so good 

[Duma]

Goals:
Good winter bouldering season,
8A (Hunters Roof? Full Power?)and 8b by next June
In shape for SA next summer.

Body Audit: fingers ok, R shoulder starting to complain after fairly heavy week, but hopefully yesterdays attention to it will help.

Sleep decent.

M: TCA, tweak of sequence meant finally got one of the two remaining Yellows, seemed to find this one really hard relative to others opinions. bit more work on Mothership green, no progress. Repeated some other steep stuff though. (~7hrs)
T: Bloc, very brief session as admin before overran, nothing to compare to here so not sure how well I was going, did a couple of fun things that felt tricky though (~7hrs)
W: TCA, can't remember, can't have been much of a session (~6.5hrs)
T: Redpoint, Winter series comp, only realised it was on mid afternoon but had decent go I think, completed all problems, 176 out of possible 200 IIRC (~6hrs)
F: Nothing, 2hrs amateur tree surgery which was fun though. (~6hrs)
S: TCA aft, Good session with a few folk down. Got the moves and 2 halves on one of 2 whites (last comp set) I'd not done, didn't quite have the beans for the link though. Then moved over to the other white - went reasonably quick so happy with that as I'd failed on this a couple of weeks ago. Then round to the Mothership, actually managed some micro progress on the green (holding move to sloper without accidental cheating toehook, then almost holding match)  (~8hrs)
S: TCA aft, greens (4 - 6A) to warm up, then load of core and shoulder stuff (~7hrs)

Fairly heavy week, 6 sessions, though a couple of them were short. Not climbing today and prob not tomorrow depending on how I feel.

69kg

[Sasquatch]

M-Notta
T-FB Max Hangs and repeaters.  Decent session.
W-Work/Travel
T-Work
F-Work
S-Routes at wall with Wife - OS 5 x 5.12...  Not bad for not having done any endurance in months...
S-Notta

[sxrxg]

Good session TBH (for plastic) - bumped into (I'm really sorry I don't know your name!) one of the gents who was at Fatnecks Ysgo weekender last year and had a good chat.

Good to meet you again Tom (it's Ste BTW), maybe see you at the Depot or the crag again soon.

[tomtom]

Hi Ste! I'm rubbish with names- good to see you and family again.

[Coops_13]

TG: Heal elbow, try to climb
MTG: More 7b/+s
LTG: 8A

M:
T:
W:
T: Arch to test out elbow as hadn't had symptoms for four days. Only lasted an hour after symptoms returned, not looking good for font!
F: Drove to Font overnight, torrential rain on the way. Bivvied in Apremont car park
S: Apremont, surprise tick of Crazy Horse after not too much time. Video here, excuse my mate's horrendous ticks:

Tried Onde de Choc, fingers not strong enough for that crimp Went to Clandestino at end of the day and ticked the left version. Spent the rest of the time trying some 7A to the right before smashing a massive steak 
S: Rain arrived, set the tarp up over Rudeboy in 95.2. Got close, couldn't do the last move after all the rest, knackered after the previous day

Elbow was fine in Font, sore at the end but no symptoms! Perhaps they were over-ridden by adrenaline and psyche. Will try a wall session after a couple of days of rest.

[fried]

Is your mate blind?

[Coops_13]

Is your mate blind?

they didn't help him

[filz]

 STG - Train more consistently and do more specific training.

M-T: nothing
W: board session. Theraband exercises for shoulders
T: bm max hangs
F: board climbing with friends. Hard session.
S-S: nothing

[Will Hunt]

STG: FA Project


Hmmm. What did I do?

Tues: Board sesh.
Thurs - Fri: Shoulder feeling funny
Saturday: Decided to go to Gate House Crag as was entertaining punters who haven't climbed in a while. Driving up that way was being bombarded with texts and calls from the other car decrying the weather and saying we ought to turn back. Full snowstorm scenes in Nidderdale. Got to parking for Gate House and we were on the edge of the storm. Drove on to Plan B - Slipstones. Gorgeous blue skies and cold temps. Felt very smug about calling the weather right. Pottered around on easy things. Ticked off Sulky Little Boys using an odd sequence and did a nice 6C traverse that was quite tough. Got shut down by a 6A+ dyno! Proper grades! MAKE YORKSHIRE HARD AGAIN! Then went to Black Sheep Brewery for the tour when the rain eventually arrived.

Forgot to order new shoes. As I write this I have got new shoes which are reeeeeaally stiff and will take ages to break in. So the assault on the project this weekend will (hopefully) have a good skin day, a good conditions day, but not a good shoe rubber day. Balls.

[36chambers]

Forgot to order new shoes. As I write this I have got new shoes which are reeeeeaally stiff and will take ages to break in. So the assault on the project this weekend will (hopefully) have a good skin day, a good conditions day, but not a good shoe rubber day. Balls.

You are starting to sound more and more like Shark.

[Footwork]

Give him a pair of glasses and the resemblance is uncanny 

[Will Hunt]

Forgot to order new shoes. As I write this I have got new shoes which are reeeeeaally stiff and will take ages to break in. So the assault on the project this weekend will (hopefully) have a good skin day, a good conditions day, but not a good shoe rubber day. Balls.

You are starting to sound more and more like Shark.

What in particular is the Sharkesque quality? Is it selecting a project that you will find genuinely difficult? One day, I believe you will pick such a project.

[Luke Owens]

M: 2 x 10mins LI-Aerocap

T: Lunch - 2 x 10mins LI-Aerocap

Eve - Plas Power - 2 x 10mins LI-Aerocap

Realised board is 45 degrees and not 40 which would explain why the moon hold setup/problems feel harder than their grades.

Tried a 6B+ a few times and couldn't stick the last move, also tried the 6B+ from last week, almost stuck the crux.

4 laps getting to move 14 on proj replica with 3 mins rest between goes. AnCap territory.

5 x 1min on 2min off HI-AeroCap

5min ARC warm down.

W: Plas Power - 2 x 10mins LI-Aerocap

Felt really sore/tweaky, tried 6B+ on board again, worse than yesterday.

1 lap on 16 move replica.

5 x 1min on 1min off HI-Aerocap

10 mins LI-Aerocap

T: Rest - Arms/Fingers really sore, achey and tight...

F: Rest - Same as above.

S: Roaches - Ace to be out on the grit again, first time at the Roaches, did:

5+
6A
Joe's Arete - 6A
6C+ Eliminate to the right - felt more like 6B+
Drunk Enough - 6C+ - felt more like 6B+/C
Left Groove - 6B

Also tried but failed on Too Drunk, felt nails. Legless Limbo Dancer, almost did it. Could of done Sleeping with the Flowers if I had spent some more time on it too I reckon.

S: Rest

[tomtom]

Forgot to order new shoes. As I write this I have got new shoes which are reeeeeaally stiff and will take ages to break in. So the assault on the project this weekend will (hopefully) have a good skin day, a good conditions day, but not a good shoe rubber day. Balls.

You are starting to sound more and more like Shark.

If I'd never met Will, I'd have thought more Brian Blessed (with or without glasses)

[Coops_13]

Forgot to order new shoes. As I write this I have got new shoes which are reeeeeaally stiff and will take ages to break in. So the assault on the project this weekend will (hopefully) have a good skin day, a good conditions day, but not a good shoe rubber day. Balls.

You are starting to sound more and more like Shark.

If I'd never met Will, I'd have thought more Brian Blessed (with or without glasses)

He'd have to be able to grow a beard first