[fried]

STG - Try to get out on some rock before the end of the year
MTG - Spend the winter trying hard ready for the 3 days of good spring weather
LTG - 7A by 50

Looks like the grey drizzle is here 'til March

M - Rest
T - Indoor, feeling good, ticked off a lot of new 6A/B stuff, have a feeling the grading gone even softer.
W-
Th -
Fr - Started seriously looking at a 6C problem that I had a quick look at on Tuesday, seemed tough at first then managed to link the bottom two section, now just need to do the finish. Hardest thing I've tried in a while.

Sa - Good connies, but I'm at home with visitors, convince myself I don't climb well in the cold. Drinks...
Su - Planned to do another indoor session, wolfed down a rare plate of sausage and fried eggs, felt ropey, laid on the sofa all day.

[Falling Down]

Back on the wagon.  Trip to France in Feb with some mates booked.  Will set goals next weekend once I've figured out where I am fitness wise.

M-S 2 x 15 press-ups each morning and an easy cycle to/from work. 
S - First trip to the wall in some time.  Easy circuit to ease back into it. 15-20 problems up to V2 and nice to catchup with with Bridbeast.  Good fun and didn't feel too sluggish.

[shark]

Thanks fried

Again.

10.12-11.2

M. Noon. Went to Crag X. Condensed to fuck. Rubicon the same. Drove to Foundry to have an experiment with Lattice board. Bumped into Dolly aand he persuaded me to have fun and boulder. Monkey Boy and Rob were resetting on the Wave for the comp so we had a good time testing out all the level 2's which were mainly softer than usual. Got Dave to set a replica of the Oak throw but he was reluctant to set a gaston traverse as well. Eve Sport massage and Yoga

T.

W. Crag X Headed out more in hope than expectation. Was dry! (but a bit glassy). Took longer to do the top link. Really struggling to get enough purchase on left crimp on rail and the pinch. Very frustrating. Had a final good go by headtorch. Eve Peak Area meet

T. 

F. Crag X. Afternoon. Headed out in the most unlikely of conditions expecting to just go for a drive and a walk and of course Crag X was dry. Holds felt marginally grippier than Weds. Did the top link at third attempt. Two goes touching the slot then a very late go in failing light getting the slot with my left! - right foot then cut loose but reeled it in then went for the large crimp and got it! left foot then popped and couldn't reel it in and was back on the mat. Noooo. A highpoint though. Just one foot move and two easyish hand moves short of m.atching the flake Eve Curry, bottle of wine and a large bar of chocolate

S. After much agonizing over potential venues decided to check out Millstone with the boys. Blue skies and Baltic. Team Foundry turned up to support mit on Masters Edge. Did Technical Master. Paul Reeve didn't. Just saying like. Then tried out the left hand 6C version which was superb. Topped out and scrambled to the top of the crag. Then tried the left hand without the seam with turboman which was frustrating – scarcely got off the ground . Very cold so we finished early.       

S.

This was meant to be an easier week. And it was – but only just. The lattice board benchmarking session planned with Paul and Keith and Thursday was put back to this coming thursday.

Would like to start fingerboarding but despite lots of care and attention only just about keeping the swelling in the mid two on my left hand at bay so almost certainly not a good idea to push them even more. Probably should have a proper week off to get them sorted. Seems to get better when I have rest days and get worse when I repeatedly crimp the fuck out of the rail on Jericho Road. There might be a correlation but the sample size is small.

Back also keeps playing up despite nightly stretching. With additional massage and yoga seems a lot better this week as I write. Booked in for yoga again tomorrow night with Mrs Shark. Maybe this time I will “feel the energy in the room”. 

Been interesting frustrating on JR doing micro adjustments of technique and using hips and momentum more than I would normally. The crux for me is the move to the pinch where I have to concentrate on far too many things at once ie boning the glassy crimp with left hand, keep the left foot tensioned in the heel toe whilst pressing up with the hips and right toe and then getting the pinch quickly which is an awkward shape and hard to hold.

Going to check out Crag X again tomorrow morning. Bit of a longshot though.

[Murph]

Goals
STG - an ad hoc strength phase, some ego flattering outside stuff, planning
MTG - power, Advanced Training 7C/+
LTG - rubicon 8A

M- bodyweight routine. Tried Nai's recommended press up routine of 15 slow reps in 1minute with no rests. Man it hurts.
T- matrix lunchtime session. 30 easy problems then tried campusing on their jugs. Couldn't even do 1-3-5 with both sides. Dunno maybe this is a hard board.
W- work. Long train journey. Listened to v interesting podcast about a guy called Pavel Tsatsouline. He makes people strong apparently. No idea how to fit his recommendations into my routine tho. Fingerboard max hangs and one armers. Oh my the one armers were hard. How many times will I make the mistake of trying to train strength/power without being 100% rested....even still, managed 6 seconds 43kgs with two hands on smallest BM hold
T- work
F- kids/accidental rest.
S- more rest
S- first works session in a couple of months. Wasps. An awe inspiring display of shaky legs and uncoordinated fumbling....

Weight - 64. I think I'm going to have to settle for this really. I can't be arsed getting to project weight when I am months away from being in a position to lock horns with a project.

Aim for next week: consistency. Not accidentally training three days then resting three days.  And one armers with properly calibrated pulley assistance.

[Muenchener]

STG: Get to the top of a moonboard by any means whatsoever.
MTG (Spring 2017): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: Half hour shoulder rehab/mobility
T:   
W: School holiday in Bavaria. Took the day off work for a lads' outing with M jnr but then we were both too ill to go out. Felt a little better in the evening so did a session of Beastmaker max hangs
T:
F: Boulderwelt. Short late evening session. I am so far out of my depth on the moonboard.
S: Half hour shoulder rehab/mobility whilst listening to the trainingbeta shoulder physio podcast.
S: Drove to Garmisch to check out a supposedly sunny bouldering spot that my mate thought had a chance of being dry. Nope. Everything was absolutely soaked, and a couple of hours of weak late Autumn sunshine peeking over the mountains clearly wasn't going to achieve much by way of drying anything. At least we tried. Bailed to a bouldering wall nearby at Weyarn.

[petejh]

STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), in July October, November
MTG:
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Dying of flu phase.


Monday - Sunday: dying of flu.


Never known a cold like this, if mucus was worth something I'd be rich.


That's the end of the year's rock goals for me.
Didn't achieve what I set out to in 2016, in terms of routes climbed it's my least productive climbing year in recent times but I feel like I've banked some bouldering and training strength for the spring. Plus seen a lots of new places through the year - Frankenjura, Tarn, Devoluey, Fairhead, Mournes, Cooleys, Glendalough, Dalkey, developing new Irish crag x. Also nice to revisit Orpierre and Ceuse. 
On to winter climbing schedule when this flu finally loosens its grip. Plan to fingerboard or boulder once per week most weeks through the winter and start rock mileage in late Feb/early March. Finally finish bolting two brilliant semi-bolted projs so they're ready for the spring, one in the quarries one on little orme.
Booked ice-climbing trip to Cogne with girlfriend for early Jan woohoo. Following this well-worn trajectory it'll be aid-climbing by next autumn, dangerous snow-walking by spring 2017, hill-walking 8c (cuillin?) by autumn 2017.

[tomtom]

Those last 'easy' moves on JR might seem easy when fresh - but I dropped them a couple of times on attempts. Worth practicing - spotting your foot placements for these last moves so it's wired. It's 6A move or something but at the end of all that....

[shark]

Those last 'easy' moves on JR might seem easy when fresh - but I dropped them a couple of times on attempts. Worth practicing - spotting your foot placements for these last moves so it's wired. It's 6A move or something but at the end of all that....

This might represent the top end of endurance for you but its at the bottom end for me.

I'm expecting to eat these words

[webbo]

Those last 'easy' moves on JR might seem easy when fresh - but I dropped them a couple of times on attempts. Worth practicing - spotting your foot placements for these last moves so it's wired. It's 6A move or something but at the end of all that....

This might represent the top end of endurance for you but its at the bottom end for me.

I'm expecting to eat these words

No wonder your weight keeps going up and down.

[shark]

Those last 'easy' moves on JR might seem easy when fresh - but I dropped them a couple of times on attempts. Worth practicing - spotting your foot placements for these last moves so it's wired. It's 6A move or something but at the end of all that....

This might represent the top end of endurance for you but its at the bottom end for me.

I'm expecting to eat these words

No wonder your weight keeps going up and down.

TT fanbois

[tomtom]

Those last 'easy' moves on JR might seem easy when fresh - but I dropped them a couple of times on attempts. Worth practicing - spotting your foot placements for these last moves so it's wired. It's 6A move or something but at the end of all that....

Oh, and climb faster xx

[shark]

Oh, and climb faster xx

 

[tomtom]

Can I say I burnt you off on this in the GBBO thread?

[shark]

Can I say I burnt you off on this in the GBBO thread?

You really are scraping the bottom of the barrel. I'm sure you must have outlanked someone other than massive archoutlanker Dave Parry

[tomtom]

Can I say I burnt you off on this in the GBBO thread?

You really are scraping the bottom of the barrel. I'm sure you must have outlanked someone other than massive archoutlanker Dave Parry

My climbing career is based on barrel scraping... speaking of which I'm sure I reached the porthole on WSS before you..

Lagerstarfish taught me well...

[Dolly]

M. Fun with Shark on the Wave-see his post
T.
W. Wave again. Did 2 level 3s which is good for me. Peak Area BMC meeting in the evening. Somehow managed to drink too much. Got the train back to Dore and with the advantage of beer logic decided to walk the 3.2 miles home (according to Google Maps) as quickly as possible to compensate. Walked like a nutter, then realised I was starving after Shark and I snootily refused the chips on offer at the BMC meeting. Thankfully every takeaway on the way back was shut - until the very last one. So... I had chips with salad and thoroughly enjoyed every single dirty mouthful.
T. About 10 routes at gym between 6a and 6c+
F. Gym Core
S. Walk around Curbar with the girls. Felt cold. Routes at gym again between 6b and 7a.
S.


Just need some goof weather to coincide with my allotted/available time

[shark]

My climbing career is based on barrel scraping... speaking of which I'm sure I reached the porthole on WSS before you..

You started on it a year before me

Not that I'm counting of course 

[nai]

My climbing career is based on barrel scraping... speaking of which I'm sure I reached the porthole on WSS before you..

You started on it a year before me

Not that I'm counting of course 

and you've reached the top of course

[nai]

Goals on hold

Mon - more painting and furniture shifting

Tue - yet  more painting and furniture shifting
base FB session 7 - changed my footblock to a smaller one. Either made it too easy or I totaly smashed it.

Wed - plan had been eatswood but a bad night's sleep and not ideal weather brought on a dose of CBA so opted for cleaning up and getting straight after the painting 

Thu -

AM - base FB session 8 - footblock made higher, intensity about right, fingers wilting final reps of last two sets.  Good.

Noon-  Physio.

PM -  LI AeroCap on autobelays - 3 sets averaged about 12 mins per set

Fri, Sat, Sun - neck & shoulders really tight and sore and an elbow niggle I've always thought to be referred started to feel like a real problem, opted to can training until after next physio session and just hammer the recovery and mobility exercises.

[shurt]

Was on holiday last week and did nothing apart from a few press ups and couldn't be arsed. drank, beach with the kids watched the surfers was nice.

last week

mon - back from hols
tues - nothing
wed - 2 sets of fingerboard, then could only manage 8 pull ups after rest
thurs - 10 pull ups
friday - 3 sets on fingerbaord lunchtime then 2 x 10 then 6 (couldn’t do any more) pull ups in eve timed rest in between
sat - 3 x 10 pulls ups with times rest then could only 6
sun - nothing

Pretty good week all in all after a complete rest week. Realised I did over 100 pull ups (128), can't remember the last time I managed that.

Weather permitting I should be getting out bouldering next weekend so looking forward to that.

[moose]

My climbing career is based on barrel scraping... speaking of which I'm sure I reached the porthole on WSS before you..

You started on it a year before me

Not that I'm counting of course 

Play nice children. Or I'll come over and show you who's boss in the prized fields of both lank and slowness.

[measles23]

Thanks fried

Listened to v interesting podcast about a guy called Pavel Tsatsouline. He makes people strong apparently. No idea how to fit his recommendations into my routine tho.

He did a book with Andy Bolton called Deadlift Dynamite - it's OK but not revolutionary; no idea how to translate it to climbing but don't care as he's not Bulgarian  :

M- 1. BM2k 2-arm open crimp on small crimps, max hangs 9 sets up to +45 x 2s
     2. Finger pull-ups (ie open hand to open crimp and back - is there a better name for these?) 5 sets 2-arm on BM2k big crimps up to +10 x 2

T- 1. BM2k 1-arm 3 finger drag left 'eye': 6 sets up to +5 x5s
    2. Weighted pull-ups 6 sets up to +40 x 3

W - 1. BM2k 2-arm open crimp on small crimps, max hangs 9 sets up to +45 x 3s
      2. Finger pull-ups on good hold: 5 sets up to +10 x 2

T- 1. BM2k 1-arm 3 finger drag left 'eye': 6 sets up to +5 x8s
    2. Weighted pull-ups 6 sets up to +45 x 3
    3. Pinch lifts (weights hanging from 2x3 block): 5 sets up to +20 x 5s

F- 1. BM2k 2-arm open crimp on small crimps, max hangs 9 sets up to +45 x 4s
    2. Finger pull-ups on good hold: 5 sets up to +15 x 2
    3. BM2k 1-arm pulley assisted open crimp on central crimp hold: 6 sets up to -10 x 5s

S- Rest, Santa train (yes it IS Christmas already!!), puppet show, Fantastic beasts at cinema..
S- Stoke AW kids club - tried pulling on in my 1989 rainbow coloured EBs (only boots I can squeeze my dicky foot into! Leg said no very quickly so stopped... patience....

So 9 straight days on the fingerboard - I'm calling this 'Bulgarian method' after the 80s Bulgarian oly lifting team who punched way above their weight by throwing out traditional ideas of periodisation and rest.. Basically high frequency, high intensity but low volume per exercise (Shark didn't you briefly mention this a few years back?)

Anyway I'm reasonably happy with first foray - certainly fingers have acclimatised well with no tail-off, if anything slight increase in performance despite lack of rest - also feeling very un-tweaky despite no taping...

At least another 6 wks to continue this experiment..

[TobyD]

Mon short walk early morning, gym
Tue turbo session early morning, gym
Wed turbo session early morning, gym
Thu turbo session early morning, gym
Fri Turbo session, bit of core and stretching evening
Sat turbo session early morning, gym.
Sun turbo session early morning, gym

Gym sessions vary but mostly upper body strength exercise with some weighted squats, leg press, and some core, dorsal raises. Had planned wall visit or two but partner injured, ironically, and lacked any motivation to travel to get on an auto belay, when it's easy to walk down the road and lift bits of metal up.

[shark]

So 9 straight days on the fingerboard - I'm calling this 'Bulgarian method' after the 80s Bulgarian oly lifting team who punched way above their weight by throwing out traditional ideas of periodisation and rest.. Basically high frequency, high intensity but low volume per exercise (Shark didn't you briefly mention this a few years back?)

I think it was based on an article based on the ideas of a guy called ...Pavel Tsatsouline.

[webbo]

Mon. Looking after grandson am. Pm board working on recent problems but using screw on footholds, did a couple.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Went to Red Goat wall in York, not be to a wall for over 18 months. Just did easy circuits got spanked by stuff graded V3/V4. Did a lot of climbing.
Fri. Turbo 1 min on 1off x 10 pus warm up and down. Went out on the road later, forgot my drink, got pissed on and punctured. Not much fun really.
Sat. Board trying more problems with screw on feet did a couple more. Bike went out in the dark to try out new lights. Out about one and half hours, computer doesn't work when lights in flashing mode. Lights work well.
Sun. Nothing.