[tomtom]

Evening all. A family intensive week got in the way of training and climbing this week

M: Work, Hull and Back..MrsTT's Aunt arrives

Tu: MrsTTs Aunt doesnt lift a finger to help at home, despite new parents hoping for respite.. Science festival 'meet the great and good' evening soirre.. Dull as f*ck except I caught the head of NERC having a crafty fag out the back as I was leaving and bent his ear about a few things

We: MrsTT's Aunt is left to fend for herself as we got fed up... Max hangs in the afternoon. Still felt tired from Sundays Stoney edge session to be honest...

Th: Aunt leaves... Weather looking crap(ish) - quick depot session. Flash a couple of purples. Get nowhere near any of the others. My one criticism of the Manc Depot is that alot of the setting is quite samey.. Its a great space, well run, good atmosphere, great to be in, but.... most of the circuits have quite a (ahem) grit feel - hard powerful moves are often open, compression, reach based on large holds edges. I've got quite fond of ze crimp over the summer and it needs more of these!!!

Fri: Completely forgotten what I did! Ah, pub lunch with old uni friends who came over...

Sa: Hoping to get out - drizzle. Bailed til sunday..

Su: My only day of climbing. Out to Craig y Longridge. First time in probably over a year. WANTED to get Big Marine done (7A+). Fucked about for ages getting hand foot beta right for first deadpoint/dyno move for big edge. Finally got the f*cker nailed and ran out of gas. Grr.. Moved to Delta something.. (7A+)... managed to do the dyno after several attempts, then failed miserably on the top wall, ran out of gas... Good session though, didnt go too hard and managed a couple of hours. Left and right arms are now aching nicely from dyno/deadpoint problems on left and right arms respectively

[lagerstarfish]

I've got quite fond of ze crimp over the summer and it needs more of these!!!

I think most walls would benefit from having more basic problems on small holds - both hands and feet - they don't get in the way of other problems and could be easily be squeezed in (I have never tried to set boulder problems at a big bouldering venue, so might be very wrong)

actually, I thought the same about routes at walls as well - never enough sub 7 routes using only small holds

yeah - easy problems on small holds, that's what I'm saying

[Coops_13]

STG: Zippys
MTG: Get solid at 7B/+
LTG: 8A

M:
T: Indoors, went home after an hour as left arm felt weak (maybe linked to elbow bursitis gained last Sunday
W:
T:
F:
S: Drove to Rowtor Rocks, sent Blood Falls, The Line and Short Sean's. We went and checked out Spare Rib at Stanton, v wet and it looks like there's a small community living underneath. Awful conditions, warm and humid so drove back to London and went to a house party instead of staying up North. Up at 0530, in bed 0330, knackered... Video of the day here:

S:

[IanP]

I think most walls would benefit from having more basic problems on small holds - both hands and feet - they don't get in the way of other problems and could be easily be squeezed in (I have never tried to set boulder problems at a big bouldering venue, so might be very wrong)

actually, I thought the same about routes at walls as well - never enough sub 7 routes using only small holds

yeah - easy problems on small holds, that's what I'm saying

Completely agree, great facility but could  do with some more crimpy style problems,  we should start a campaign for them to get a set of old school holds and use them to set a V4-V7 limestone climbers circuit.

[Will Hunt]

M:
T: Shoulder felt crap from lugging stuff to Ash Head so postponed weekly board session to Thursday and did some self massage with a tennis ball.
W: Shoulder feeling better
T: board session. Warm up and power problems. Then onto AnCap stuff. Feel like I've improved with this.
F:
S: Almscliff in the grim haze. Did a few of the wall problems on Black Wall which i haven't done before. 'Arries 'Ook Direct Start via both methods (the dyno and the ramp tussle) and then Blackhead. 7A+ x 2 and a 7B. Then usual circuit around DWR.
S: felt fucked after Almscliff. Went to Brimham to do some trad. Started on Red Tape and backed off when the break above the gear turned out be covered in green shite. Then debacle of moving around various routes not doing them. Did Joker's Flake Sit (7A+) and Black Dog Arête (6C).

[moose]

I think most walls would benefit from having more basic problems on small holds - both hands and feet - they don't get in the way of other problems and could be easily be squeezed in (I have never tried to set boulder problems at a big bouldering venue, so might be very wrong)

actually, I thought the same about routes at walls as well - never enough sub 7 routes using only small holds

yeah - easy problems on small holds, that's what I'm saying

Completely agree, great facility but could  do with some more crimpy style problems,  we should start a campaign for them to get a set of old school holds and use them to set a V4-V7 limestone climbers circuit.

Likewise: definitely not a fan of the "big throws between pinchy blobs" school of setting that is so prevalent.   At the Depot in Pudsey, I always gravitate to the V4-V6 woods circuit - small positive crimps, but sadly a fraction of the total setting at around those grades.  The 30deg circuit board in the back room has plenty of small-holds-shit-feet potential but I am never much good at making up problems and just wish the setters shared my love of leaning crimp ladders!

[Dolly]

We were away so there wasn't chance to climb, go to a wall.

M
T Weights
W Bit of easy road biking
T Gym Weights and loads of pull ups/lock offs
F Bit of roadie stuff and lots of scooting (Yes I've got a scooter and I'm OK with that. Its brilliant fun)
S Scooting again. Learned my first "trick"
S Beastmaker


This week sees the start of my regime. So there will be at least 2 days climbing. YYFY

[nai]

goals - 
winter - end of season mopping up through Nov combined with a training block focussing on strength.  Then pretty much just training with a few grit outings.

2017 - Powerplant, Raindogs, Nemesis, Anger Management, 7c onsight, E6.

MT nowt

Wed - kids wanted to go to Works, squeezed in 3x10 mins LI AeroCap.

Thu - long slow warm up at home then went to Tor, put clips in Proud Whore, rested 20 minutes then redpointed it.
Spent the next 2 hours drinking coffee and eating biscuits between belay stints and avoiding starting anything new.

Fri - nowt

Sat - intended to rest but got restless and I kick started 2017s campaign with one-arm repeaters. Focussing on strength to start with, this year has been beyond expectations with 8 routes now of 7c or harder but I've been stronger and I've struggled (i.e. failed) on bouldery stuff.  Aim is to get to 90% of BW on first joint edge.

S rest

Half term hence low activity levels, had a sniffly cold all week that never amounted to much but left me goosed early in the week, up 3 times on Wed night with nipper chucking up then somehow manage a RP, maybe I'm underperforming quite badly.

[shark]

10.12-11.1

M. Systems board. Evening. OK on crusher crimps. AnCap 2 sets. Reasonable scores. Fourth day on.

T.  Noon. Foundry Wave doing level 2's mainly on steep section and dogged moves on two green and black spots. 1 Eve. Back to Foundry for recruitment top up on campus board. A few attempts to ladder 1-3-5-9 on S7 rungs and 1-4-6 on medium rungs coming just short. Stu was looking in good shape laddering up and down and up and down S7 rungs with 1.5 mins rest between goes. I noticed he was doing it on 3 fingers - questioned him and he said 4 fingers even with weight was too easy   

W.

T. Eve. Fingerboard Pre Oak recruitment as recommended by Bosi.

F. Malham. Weighing light again. Up with Haydn, Luke and Rob the Kiwi. Warmish, still and a bit greasy warming up on Consenting. Not felt proper bite and texture all autumn with mild weather. Anyway Oak was dry. One working go and 5 redpoint attempts where I touched or briefly held the horn all 5 goes. Better than last week but worse than week before. Therefore my attempt to contrive a mini Peak was only partially successful.
Through the day went from despair to very angry to resigned acceptance - a full range of emotions other than elation of course. Felt that with the dieting training and teetotalling I deserved to do better - then realising that I'd lapsed into self pity made me feel even worse. Haydn was having a hard time with wet routes. Shared a consolation chocolate digestive biscuit with him. The cunt then did Mid Ledge. Luke also bagged Predator.

S. PM Foundry Wave, surprisingly quiet seeing as how crap the weather was. Had a good long sess nearly three hours. Useful chat with Marcus about when doing semi-dynamic moves that you leave your hand on the hold a fraction longer than feels natural to allow momentum to fully do its work before going for the next hold. Applied this and it helped on a move I'd been struggling on on right hand green and black spots. Marcus says its been a game changer for him so going to experiment with it more. Wonder if it will work on the Oak throw move    Also got to work on left hand black and yellow swirls which was ace and got it on a session which was encouraging

S. Feel wiped. Hope Ive not got another cold coming on after just having got over one. PM After doing weekly shop popped into Foundry for a short AeroCap session on auto belay in Furnace.


Back to Malham on Tuesday with Mina. She's promised to pack enough psyche for two.

 

[36chambers]

M:
T: Caley to see how it was doing. Despite it having not rained for two days, the whole place was green and damp. It must get ridiculously dewy at night. Found some clean dry rock in the form of the sit start (lower section only) to Ben's groove. So hopped on that without a warm up and managed to climb into the stand holds. So good progress there. 
W: left shoulder felt f**ked from Ben's groove. Should not skip warm up.
T: Indoors. Got pumped warming up and it was downhill from there.
F:
S: Damp day at Almscliff. 
S: Earl Crag. Called in as I was passing anyway. Dry rock but zero wind and a tad muggy, but still managed a high point on Lager Lager Lager 7C. For a brief moment I thought it was a done deal, until the sloper turned into soap. Finished the day doing max hangs on the start to Underworld 7C+ as that was as far as I could get on it anyway. Training innit.

Body feeling a little worse for wear, but psyche is high.

[shark]

This week sees the start of my regime. So there will be at least 2 days climbing. YYFY

So which midweek days are you allocating for climbing?

[Dolly]

This week sees the start of my regime. So there will be at least 2 days climbing. YYFY

So which midweek days are you allocating for climbing?

Tuesdays and Thursdays ATM. Mr Starfish has me on Tuesday but I could be game on Thursday if you are ?

[TobyD]

M turbo early AM, gym later AM
T gym PM
W turbo intervals AM; easy bike ride outside PM
T gym AM
F AM & PM intervals sessions on turbo
S gym AM
S early AM turbo intervals; late AM gym shoulders and core PM sunday papers and a seaside stroll

first sort of proper outside bike ride on road bike: c. 20 miles, felt extremely easy despite having smashed out half an hour on the turbo in the morning. plugging myself into that thing is clearly having some sort of effect! Feeling a bit stronger in the gym, but gains seem to be pretty marginal, thinking likely bin the gym next month and switch to rockrings / fingerboard / easy top roping or traversing. climbing sort of scares me now, strangely enough. But i don't want to become a mamil!

[shark]

Tuesdays and Thursdays ATM. Mr Starfish has me on Tuesday but I could be game on Thursday if you are ?

When the Oak gets wet I'm all yours

[Muenchener]

STG: Get to the top of a moonboard by any means whatsoever.
MTG (Spring 2017): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M:
T:   Boulderwelt with M jnr. A session that was going poorly anyway, with nothing by way of progress or ticks, then I fell and bruised a finger so abandoned ship early.
W: Resting. Comp at the weekend: trying to restore oopsied finger to working order whilst simultaneously fighting off round 3 of a recurring virus that has been attacking me for the last few weeks and is starting to seriously get on my tits. 
T: ditto
F: ditto
S: Competition in E4, the other bouldering wall in Nürnberg apart from Cafe Kraft. I've been to Cafe Kraft a couple of times and think it's great, so was curious to see this one.
And it turned out to be interesting. First impression: smaller and generally unimpressive compared to CK. And the setting was full-on comp style: slopers, volumes & jumps everywhere, not a crimp in sight. Disconcerting and not at all what I generally think of as my thing. Took me a while to warm to it, but ended up scoring only fractionally lower than I did a month ago at the previous round on my home ground in Munich. Successes included to my surprise two sideways dyno cruxes and two volume shuffling fests with exactly one actual proper hold between them.
Turned out to be the most enjoyable comp I've done, with some of the best plastic bloc setting I've ever encountered. Not to mention the first time I've ever ended a heavy bouldering session with my triceps sorer than my forearms.
Otoh no amount of volume hugging or leaping from one huge sloper to another will ever get me to the top of a Moonboard.

(I wrote all this before discovering that lack of basic crimpy blocs at bouldering walls was going to the Theme of the Week. Honest)

S: 2 hours MTB in the woods. Active rest.

[tomtom]

Tuesdays and Thursdays ATM. Mr Starfish has me on Tuesday but I could be game on Thursday if you are ?

When the Oak gets wet I'm all yours

I can be about most Thursdays...

[shark]

Tuesdays and Thursdays ATM. Mr Starfish has me on Tuesday but I could be game on Thursday if you are ?

When the Oak gets wet I'm all yours

I can be about most Thursdays...

Thursday Club 

[Murph]

M-
T-got word that the send train had been they my proj and it was due a downgrade
W-lunchtime session at matrix. Intended to take it easy but warmed up badly and got pumped beyond reason. It's good there but compact and warm up can be compromised. Half hearted attempt at campusing on jugs but it's harder than I remembered.
T-listened to powercompany podcasts they are pretty good imo. Apparently a lot of training is neural/mental rather than physical adaptation. Also learnt that bouldering is supposed to actually be hard if you want to get strong (yes please). I've certainly wasted a lot of time pouncing about ticking blacks or wasps and getting my well done buzz down the Works in my time when I should have been getting shot down on the hard stuff. Just sharing.
F-ostensibly resting for Saturday crush fest on the project but got word that it was all wet. Felt crushed.
S-early morning rise, pass arranged, childcare in place, yep, it was wet. Condensed and/or seepage. !!!
Resurrected my garage board and sorted out matting and tried to actually use it. Once you realise that bouldering is supposed to be hard it doesn't matter if it's not long or interesting it actually makes sense. I know this is sucking eggs to a lot of you but shit, I never appreciated it before. A quote from one of those podcasts, "if the problem has eight moves and you can't do two of them, the other six moves don't f***ing matter". Yes!
Also dusted off the fingerboard for the first decent session in a couple of months (one where I wasn't worried about skin). Smashed it. 38kgs for 10s off the smallest, 14mm edge...then broke the mounting when going for a PB of 43kgs, but managed 15-16s off the 18mm edge which is lower down so the fact it was yanked from the wall a bit. Then pulled 45.5kgs for 10s off that hold. As covered in the other thread, I think I'm going to have to swallow my pride and move onto fewer fingers or hands and actually develop rather than just massage ego using holds I've got dialled.
S-

Weight 63.8kgs average up from 63.1kgs last week and drifting away from the 62.5kgs target. I am going to have to reconsider my relationship with peanut butter.

STG - Get strong. Train hard. Get the weight back down. Get a project that's more winter resistant.
MTG - Advanced Training when it's dry. F**k.
LTG - 147 and all that other stuff. Something hard at Rubicon.

[Dolly]

Tuesdays and Thursdays ATM. Mr Starfish has me on Tuesday but I could be game on Thursday if you are ?

When the Oak gets wet I'm all yours

I can be about most Thursdays...

Thursday Club 

Excellent idea

[moose]

Tuesdays and Thursdays ATM. Mr Starfish has me on Tuesday but I could be game on Thursday if you are ?

When the Oak gets wet I'm all yours

Re conditions, Malham is pretty damn dry at the moment.  I didn't look at the Oak today, but if it's any guide, all the left-side routes (Predator to Yosemite) had teams on with no complaints; Raindogs had no pocket seepage.  Main problem over the weekend was early mistiness but the trend improved from Sat to Sun - and the forecast for the coming week looks good - a few degrees cooler but clearer. 

I really hope you make the best of it.... I admire your tenacity and dedication.  Personally suffering from "combat fatigue" - I feel like I've been on RP solidly for most of the past 7 months... and it's taken its toll: mojo-crash.  I secretly think I'll be quite grateful for a freezing and  torrentially rainy month or so of enforced indoor bouldering - go to wall, home for a bowl of soup and football on telly! 

[shark]

Personally suffering from "combat fatigue" - I feel like I've been on RP solidly for most of the past 7 months... and it's taken its toll: mojo-crash.  I secretly think I'll be quite grateful for a freezing and  torrentially rainy month or so of enforced indoor bouldering - go to wall, home for a bowl of soup and football on telly!

 

[measles23]

Quiet week - half term innit

M - Work

T - Strength Asylum:
7 sets DL up to 180x5 - fuuurggh 5s are hard work, but the last cycle was so successful so shall persevere...
7 sets weighted wide grip pull-ups up to +40 x 2
7 sets squat 100s/110s x 3s
7 sets bench up to 75x1
(ie yes I am a one trick pony, but simply don't have the time/energy to push the other lifts)

W - Deadhang max hangs BM2k small crimp open crimp 9 sets up to 40x3 despite feeling stronger than last week :/
"Spring" cleaning house

T - Went for walk on Alderley edge as currently reading the Alan Garner books to the youth - wizard's well, golden stone etc...

F - Deadhangs 1 arm hangs open hand BM2k; experimenting as not really done this before but lots of shortish hangs with +5kg on big holds - excited to be quite shit at this, as I feel there's a lot of potential to improve, with possibly decent transference to climbing..

S - Halloween party - wife went full-goth with spiky dog collar etc

S - Stoke AW kids club - 2hrs problems up to V8 and V6 flash - got the "stopper" purple downstairs after a bit of footwork advice from magic feet Critchlow

Back to work, back to plan, back to rock (tho everyone says its crapped out?)

[tommytwotone]

Goal - New Font 7anything by arrival of TTT Jnr Mk II in Feb


M - Nowt, prepping for...
T - "Ted Talk" at "Agile In Leeds" meetup. Delivering a lecture on Cognitive Bias to an audience of 50-ish people. Really quite an exciting experience. A few beers after to calm down.
W - Nowt
T - Finally got work diary sorted for afternoon gym session - run there, then 5 x 0.5 BW Deadlift / 5 x strict pressup / 30 sec rest x 20, run back.
F - Woke up pretty sore but had chance to gym again on lunch so - run there, then 5 x 24 inch box jump burpeee / 5 x 15kg shoulder press / 30 sec rest x 20, run back.
S - Oh my god the DOMS. Such bad DOMS. Sat on floor to do Lego with Una and could barely get myself upright again.
S - Still sore. Swimming in AM with Una but that's about it.


After 2 days of the HIIT at lunch I had a fanciful notion of doing it every day, Insanity-style as a way of getting back to fitness. The excruciating pain I was in on Saturday stopped that idea in its tracks. Must be getting old.

[T_B]

M -
T - Foundry lunch. Some traversing around. Felt creaky/tired from weekend. P.M. run, dodgy guts.
W - Foundry lunch. Bit more moving around, plus a few L2s and 3s on the wave. Still feeling tired.
T - Ran to work. P.M. Rings sess with Mrs T_B & Nic.
F -
S - Showed Mrs T_B River of Life before dropping her off at eatswood (which was in good nick, as I'd promised her). Matlock Sk8 park with boys. P.M. F/board repeaters. First F/board session for a while. Managed 2 x 6 x 7 front 3, failed on 4th rep back 3. Failed on first attempt of 6 x 7 half crimped on edge, managed it on next attempt. 
S - Tor for a couple of hours. Warmed up at home. Managed Weedkiller trav 1st go, best ever attempts on u/cut-sloper problem, dampness a bit of a hindrance. Had a few goes on Ben's Roof, getting to u/cut and crimp, but couldn't remember how to/too weak to get my feet across.

Been ticking over for a few months, keen to do a bit of structured training again.

[TobyD]

After 2 days of the HIIT at lunch I had a fanciful notion of doing it every day, Insanity-style as a way of getting back to fitness. The excruciating pain I was in on Saturday stopped that idea in its tracks. Must be getting old.

Nah. Just cycle it a bit with lighter sessions. Maybe 1 day of HIT, next day jog to your gym, stretch, jog back or similar, then HIT next day again?