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Particle Collision - Chevin Boulders (Read 3316 times)

James Malloch

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Particle Collision - Chevin Boulders
October 29, 2016, 03:34:54 pm
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=104270

Has anyone tried/done this? It's the arête to the left of Brownian motion.

Someone mentioned it yesterday so I've given it a bit of a clean (definitely needs another scrub once it's fully dry). It looks good but I couldn't really work out a sequence and didn't want to commit due to lack of pads/spotters.

It doesn't look/sound like it's had much attention but I'm hoping someone might have done it or have given it a go at least.

Will Hunt

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#1 Re: Particle Collision - Chevin Boulders
October 29, 2016, 05:46:48 pm
Nice one on the cleaning, James. I've wanted to have a look but hadn't got round to cleaning it! I know a few people who I reckon will be keen to go and have a look at it sometime so will let you know if that happens.

Did you have to get on a rope to brush it?

Johnny Brown

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#2 Re: Particle Collision - Chevin Boulders
October 29, 2016, 05:56:21 pm
Yes, a few years back now but it's mega, classy highball 7b arete, what's not to like?

James Malloch

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#3 Re: Particle Collision - Chevin Boulders
October 29, 2016, 06:09:11 pm
Yeah I put a rope equalised on two of the fence posts behind the Boulder. They wobble but don't seem like they would come out.

It'll definitely need another scrub as it was damp so the holds were far from perfect. The worst of it is off though. There was a bunch of bracken which I've removed too which should keep some moisture off.

There's a small undercut RH pocket which was full of black wasp type things which gave me a fright - I think I managed to get rid of them all but it's worth shining a torch in to check before climbing, you can check from the floor.

I think it'll revolve around getting some shit RH crimps and bouncing up the arête with the left hand and heel. Didn't really try it though as all the feet were wet and my RH pulls is injured. If you head out then let me know.

For anyone wanting to try Brownian motion, there's a birds nest on the jug before the LH undercut which you go up from. No idea if it's in use but something to be mindful of.

James Malloch

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#4 Re: Particle Collision - Chevin Boulders
October 29, 2016, 06:11:28 pm
Yes, a few years back now but it's mega, classy highball 7b arete, what's not to like?

Completely forgot to ask in the OP but I was hoping someone might have some beta. Once off the starting block, do you go fairly high to some RH crimps on the face? Then udge up the arête with the left?

Johnny Brown

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#5 Re: Particle Collision - Chevin Boulders
October 29, 2016, 10:37:37 pm
Sounds about right. I'll probably have a pic somewhere but it'll be on slide so might need rooting out. Have a feeling a hold or two is shared with Brownian? But mainly left slopers and heels yeah.

36chambers

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#6 Re: Particle Collision - Chevin Boulders
October 29, 2016, 11:15:53 pm
Nothing useful to add, but I had a session on this in March this year and unfortunately neither of us managed to figure out the top section. We couldn't quite figured out what holds to use, we were going ground up, and we definitely didn't use anything as far right as Brownian Motion. Perhaps this is why we didn't do it.

Anyway, here's a poor picture of the holds we had cleaned

http://i.imgur.com/WPV92gc.jpg

I think we got as far as failing to stick the first ticked right hand. (didn't touch the far left hand).

Keen for another session once the connies properly kick in.

James Malloch

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#7 Re: Particle Collision - Chevin Boulders
October 30, 2016, 12:28:54 am
I've cleaned essentially the same holds plus a couple of extra RH's near your final ticked one. They were a fair bit smaller but much more positive. Not sure if they were too small (good connies needed for sure).

Do you remember what you did up to that point?

I was starting LH on the lowest hold on your photo (crimp) and then using the undercut pocket to try and bump my left up to the first batch of slopers. This is where my mind gave in to the single pad and no spotter...

 

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