Quote from: tomtom on October 02, 2016, 08:19:33 pmthat might be it for this year at Rubicon if the weather craps out...Surely rubicon is fine all year round?
that might be it for this year at Rubicon if the weather craps out...
Quote from: Dolly on October 02, 2016, 07:29:10 pmAbout 7/8 degrees cooler than last week I would guess - well cold enough to see your breath when I got there. 7 degrees when I passed the Fox House this eveQuoteJust need to lose a stone and I'd be greatGreater than Lagers?7
About 7/8 degrees cooler than last week I would guess - well cold enough to see your breath when I got there.
Just need to lose a stone and I'd be great
Quote from: shark on October 01, 2016, 02:13:04 pmNo alcohol all week indeed!
No alcohol all week
Word is Oak is now wet so no harm done
Ben Moon suggested doing interval training on the route ie trying to do bolt to horn twice with minimal rest on one go and another go horn to top 2/3 times. Its an intetresting tactic Id not considered before.
Lowering off the final anchors ... the photo is taken from where you start climbing. It's a monstrous route.
Quote from: shark on October 02, 2016, 08:05:01 pmS. Steve bailed for Malham tomorrow so went to Crag X in afternoon. Still, cool and a bit midgy. Spent time nailing the top section of JR. Did twice from the rail and discovered a marginal heel/toe in the break in the process which helps when catching the thumb catch pinch. Tried several times from the ground but didnt quite get to hold the pinch. Good session. Optimistic about success now Nice one Simon. Is X still all in good nick to date? Wondering whether it might be worth a look at Sean's after I hopefully drag myself up Paint it Black.Forecast looks dry all this week still
S. Steve bailed for Malham tomorrow so went to Crag X in afternoon. Still, cool and a bit midgy. Spent time nailing the top section of JR. Did twice from the rail and discovered a marginal heel/toe in the break in the process which helps when catching the thumb catch pinch. Tried several times from the ground but didnt quite get to hold the pinch. Good session. Optimistic about success now
Monday Gym AMTuesday Gym AMWednesday Gym AMThursday 7-8 mile walk PMFriday Gym AM 6 mile walk PMSaturday Gym AMSunday Dartmoor walk in the morning Feeling a little better on the weights this week, pull ups still feel a long way off. Going to hospital for a check up tomorrow; very nervous. Hopefully all will be OK.
Quote from: nai on October 03, 2016, 07:50:52 amLooks (and sounds) amazing, good effort getting it done and sounds an amazing effort even getting to it over and over again.Thanks! Yeah it is quite a faff as a day trip - about 50 minutes driving to the ferry terminal, usually about half an hour sitting in the car waiting to board, an hour and a half on the ferry, then about another 45-50 minutes driving to the cliff. And the ferry works out about $C100 each (~£60) if there are only two of you travelling. Pretty much every trip seems to include a discussion of how to make it easier, ranging from semi-sensible ideas (buy a cheap vehicle and leave it on the island) to stupid (float-plane ...). Anyway, it is easier than flying to Kalymnos - we are really lucky to have a proper tufa'ey limestone cliff within reach at all.
Looks (and sounds) amazing, good effort getting it done and sounds an amazing effort even getting to it over and over again.
Quote from: Sidehaas on October 02, 2016, 08:43:22 pmQuote from: shark on October 02, 2016, 08:05:01 pmS. Steve bailed for Malham tomorrow so went to Crag X in afternoon. Still, cool and a bit midgy. Spent time nailing the top section of JR. Did twice from the rail and discovered a marginal heel/toe in the break in the process which helps when catching the thumb catch pinch. Tried several times from the ground but didnt quite get to hold the pinch. Good session. Optimistic about success now Nice one Simon. Is X still all in good nick to date? Wondering whether it might be worth a look at Sean's after I hopefully drag myself up Paint it Black.Forecast looks dry all this week still Yes really good nick. The river has virtually dried up. If I don't get any takers for Malham tomorrow I'll be heading back there. Was looking thru the UKC logbooks last night and seen that you'd done Moffatricity and couldn't square that with the travails you've had with the eatswood Traverse.
Quote from: shark on October 01, 2016, 02:13:04 pmBen Moon suggested doing interval training on the route ie trying to do bolt to horn twice with minimal rest on one go and another go horn to top 2/3 times. Its an intetresting tactic Id not considered before. At this stage though I think it is something to do next Spring if dont get it this season - after all it could start seeping soon. Would love to have heard how this conversation panned out - "Hey thanks for the advice Ben, the best climber of your generation who last season made an unprecedented mid-life comeback doing hardest route you've ever done at age 48, but if it's all the same to you I'm gonna ignore that advice cheers mate".
Ben Moon suggested doing interval training on the route ie trying to do bolt to horn twice with minimal rest on one go and another go horn to top 2/3 times. Its an intetresting tactic Id not considered before. At this stage though I think it is something to do next Spring if dont get it this season - after all it could start seeping soon.
Hope it goes well Toby.
It's almost as if traversing isn't that great training for upwards climbing.
Quote from: dave on October 03, 2016, 09:16:10 pmIt's almost as if traversing isn't that great training for upwards climbing. Perhaps more precisely only traversing isn't that great for upward climbing? Having said this, the redpoint crux of AO is a traverse for most people as far as i am aware. I didn't just look back at the thread again but I assume that was aimed at Simon?
Quote from: dave on October 01, 2016, 08:03:43 pmQuote from: shark on October 01, 2016, 02:13:04 pmBen Moon suggested doing interval training on the route ie trying to do bolt to horn twice with minimal rest on one go and another go horn to top 2/3 times. Its an intetresting tactic Id not considered before. At this stage though I think it is something to do next Spring if dont get it this season - after all it could start seeping soon. Would love to have heard how this conversation panned out - "Hey thanks for the advice Ben, the best climber of your generation who last season made an unprecedented mid-life comeback doing hardest route you've ever done at age 48, but if it's all the same to you I'm gonna ignore that advice cheers mate". I am confused. Do the UKB power elite now consider it OK to recommend that Shark works on his stamina? It certainly didn't seem to be acceptable four months ago.
Yes hes got it in for me irrespective.