Nice one on 2nd to top shark!
pardon?
Ben Moon suggested doing interval training on the route ie trying to do bolt to horn twice with minimal rest on one go and another go horn to top 2/3 times. Its an intetresting tactic Id not considered before. At this stage though I think it is something to do next Spring if dont get it this season - after all it could start seeping soon.
Ben will always be Ben Moon, and the rest of us will never be Ben Moon.
No alcohol all week
nearly had my first old man afternoon snooze.
Not intending doing any climbing or training this weekend so might as well start it now10.13 - 11.1M.T. Up with Luke Dawson. Warmish but drizzly and blowing in when we got there - catwalk treacherously slippy. Felt tired and unmotivated Cons x 3. Drizzle departed and good breeze on the crag which took edge off humidity. Better conditions than last week though. Cons x 3. Go 1 Dogged to horn then led horn to top. Go 2 Still sunny on rock but felt OK - Ground to thru horn and felt good above going right but got the sloper in the wrong place then managed to get tips into big undercut but not well enough to pull into rest. Happy to get through throwe mover again - an Autumn highpoint but shame I didnt get to top travere as felt reasonably fresh when came off Had a sneaky crag nap with sun in face. Nice Go 3 Ground to touching horn. Rested on bolt then tried to do second to top but rock felt glassy and had foot slippages so came off setting up for throw and came down. Go 4 Ground to touching horn. Tried from 2nd bolt but fell off throw. Then did throw to midway across top traverse. Then tried pull straight back on twice to do top traverse but couldnt. Two minutes rest and did top traverse to belay. Luke did GBH and looked good on Rainshadow. Maddy loooked good on Bat RouteW.T.F. Noon. Luke drove. Tom and Jerome came too Cooler temps - low teens but humidity still around 70% but an on-crag wind. Good but not mint. 2 x Cons. Go 1 Felt glassy dogging up - slipped off horn with both hands on it. Came down. Discovered toes of Whites had gone soft after just 5 sessions Go 2 did in 3 sections. Ground to undercut by 3rd Throw to horn. Horn to top Go 3 Ground to grabbing but not holding horn - kept having to readjust feet. 2 mins rest then 2nd bolt to midway across the top traverse Go 4 2nd bolt to top S. Moving some slabsS.No alcohol all week Generally feel lacklustre, unmotivated and sleepy. Back starting to play up. Reaping the result of neglecting stretching for last 6 months. Also got an elbow twinge on Tuesday but seemed to clear up with icing. Fingers generally achey and swollen joints kept at bay with massage. Weight heading very gradually downwards. Ben Moon suggested doing interval training on the route ie trying to do bolt to horn twice with minimal rest on one go and another go horn to top 2/3 times. Its an intetresting tactic Id not considered before. At this stage though I think it is something to do next Spring if dont get it this season - after all it could start seeping soon. Signed up for Malham on Monday with Steve and possibly the following Friday depending on things
We: Rubicon. Lots of folk there including Murph (hello!) who was crushing hard. Progress on B.Splash Direct (got but decided not to hold the final hold etc..).
Summer holiday of a couple of weeks not training or climbing, chilling traveling in France, finished mid September. Did 6 board sessions up to the start of this week to nip up a bit. Now preparing for Autumn / Winter trips Sicily, Rodellar, Tremp perhaps a couple of weeks in Font. Recalled that this was a good way to keep on plan so back on it.
Quote from: tomtom on October 02, 2016, 06:36:11 pmWe: Rubicon. Lots of folk there including Murph (hello!) who was crushing hard. Progress on B.Splash Direct (got but decided not to hold the final hold etc..). Hello! And thanks. You're not wrong though - I swear you totally had the BSD jug at one point but somehow it didn't stick. Mind over matter. Next time after a decent rest surely!?
About 7/8 degrees cooler than last week I would guess - well cold enough to see your breath when I got there.
Just need to lose a stone and I'd be great
that might be it for this year at Rubicon if the weather craps out...
S. Steve bailed for Malham tomorrow so went to Crag X in afternoon. Still, cool and a bit midgy. Spent time nailing the top section of JR. Did twice from the rail and discovered a marginal heel/toe in the break in the process which helps when catching the thumb catch pinch. Tried several times from the ground but didnt quite get to hold the pinch. Good session. Optimistic about success now