Quote from: Footwork on September 25, 2016, 11:05:23 pmGoodbye youth Aren't you about 24?!
Goodbye youth
Quote from: cheque on September 26, 2016, 09:20:03 amQuote from: Footwork on September 25, 2016, 11:05:23 pmGoodbye youth Aren't you about 24?!I'm 26 I'll have you know! It feels as though my body hit age warp within the past year. At this rate of decrepitude i'll soon be up for a piss every 3am. Now I'm starting to sound like Moose...
Last year I ended up quite close to RBR a couple of times but ran out of skin and connies in the end. I had the problem fairly well dialled and could do the lower bit into the stand with a decent success rate. I dropped the last move to match the arête a couple of times. So that would seem to suggest that power endurance is my problem? What's the posh term that people use now? AeroPow? AnPow? AnCap? What does that even mean?
I find that bit really hard, not that good and it put me off the route from the floor
Quote from: Wood FT on September 26, 2016, 12:20:13 pmI find that bit really hard, not that good and it put me off the route from the floorI'd be happy to do BM from the break I think but not Proud Whore which looks waaaay better than BM. Gonna have to work it out, sure it'll just be down to micro beta and it'll all fall into place. Hopefully.
STG: Regular training, Skin maintenance
If you can make it over to the Depot, I'd recommend training on the roofs and barrel. Much more similar to RBR than a board.
Quote from: 36chambers on September 26, 2016, 02:51:05 pmIf you can make it over to the Depot, I'd recommend training on the roofs and barrel. Much more similar to RBR than a board. As an aside, is the beta for RBR (stand) just get the LH side-pull, RH around the arête, and then just campus up with the right until it's high enough to get your feet up (only video I've watched of it)? Or is there a nicer way? I had little play on it last time and it seemed like a world away. I'm normally reasonably happy around that grade (though only just getting back on the grit after a year or two off it).
Ancap: (30-40 seconds of climbing (12-15 moves) with rest = double time on wall) x 4. Then 10 min rest, repeat.Anpow: (5-7 moves with rest less than or equal to time on) x 4. 10 min rest, repeat.
You could easily set a problem similar to RBR, 10 moves (~50 seconds climbing, according to vimeo) with ~90 secs rest, repeat.
I don't suppose you've filmed yourself on RBR? I'd bet my bottom dollar that on your best goes you've come off because you've been on it for way in excess of a minute. No need to train, just climb quicker
As an aside, is the beta for RBR (stand) just get the LH side-pull, RH around the arête, and then just campus up with the right until it's high enough to get your feet up (only video I've watched of it)? Or is there a nicer way? I had little play on it last time and it seemed like a world away. I'm normally reasonably happy around that grade (though only just getting back on the grit after a year or two off it).
Quote from: Footwork on September 26, 2016, 01:11:14 pmQuote from: cheque on September 26, 2016, 09:20:03 amQuote from: Footwork on September 25, 2016, 11:05:23 pmGoodbye youth Aren't you about 24?!I'm 26 I'll have you know! It feels as though my body hit age warp within the past year. At this rate of decrepitude i'll soon be up for a piss every 3am. Now I'm starting to sound like Moose... could be worse... you could look like him.... or even worse, be him.
Don't bring yourself down I hope one day I can climb those lofty sport grades with the same tenacity.
I know you have to cut out the "dead space" in your climbing, but I think climbing efficiently is optimal, rather than fast.
So AnCap and AnPow, are those what you'd recommend and a description of how to do them? How maximal are these 30-40 seconds of climbing supposed to be? Enough so that you can just about, or rather just not, complete a set?
Quote from: 36chambers on September 26, 2016, 02:51:05 pmYou could easily set a problem similar to RBR, 10 moves (~50 seconds climbing, according to vimeo) with ~90 secs rest, repeat.On the board, like? How maximal would this be? That's AnCap, yeah?
Finger feeling improved from a week ago.
Quote from: Coops_13 on September 26, 2016, 07:51:55 pm Finger feeling improved from a week ago.Good to hear buddy! Quality power noises on the video!
Quote from: nai on September 26, 2016, 02:56:08 pmQuote from: Wood FT on September 26, 2016, 12:20:13 pmI find that bit really hard, not that good and it put me off the route from the floorI'd be happy to do BM from the break I think but not Proud Whore which looks waaaay better than BM. Gonna have to work it out, sure it'll just be down to micro beta and it'll all fall into place. Hopefully.Push-up feels gnarly, sharp and nasty to begin with (E56c says it all) but strangely enjoyable once wired