overlapping halves!
Quoteoverlapping halves!Nice one Simon!
Quote from: Duma on September 25, 2016, 05:16:43 pmQuoteoverlapping halves!Nice one Simon!Yeah that def means more. I like the idea of the second bolt to top link, would be a good confidence booster, plus trying it should give you the chance to do the throw move successfully with more moves beforehand, as it seems you're very often failing here from the ground, bit it's fine on its own.
Fri - Tor - once up Body Machine, didn't really enjoy it. Second go still couldn't do moves past horrible sharp holds on lower wall (I've never done these moves in four sessions), got frustrated and sacked it off. Put clips in OT and had a single RP before the sun came round. Just missed with the long move, straight back on and went to top.
Quote from: nai on September 25, 2016, 08:24:07 pmFri - Tor - once up Body Machine, didn't really enjoy it. Second go still couldn't do moves past horrible sharp holds on lower wall (I've never done these moves in four sessions), got frustrated and sacked it off. Put clips in OT and had a single RP before the sun came round. Just missed with the long move, straight back on and went to top.you need beta! its really easy when you have a bit of knowledge, Mr Shark gave me the numbers on this, and i may even have flashed this section IIRC. My memory is shit, (and was shit before smashing my head!) so i can't be of much help. Good luck with Aberration / Wales / BM.
Tom, I always understood Speckled Egg to be the thing starting standing there with a good pinchy sidepull undercut of LH, going over to a slot pocket then jug. That would be about the same place as your thing only you're veering slightly left at the top - same basic line though. Being the name of the buttress speckled egg has to be something fairly easy and obvious. The roof problem/s to the left of it are speckled egg indirect I think (there's more problems than names here though).
Goodbye youth
I probably could do some easy toproping but not yet found the right person available at the right time (I'm thinking indoor wall, quiet as possible, extremely attentive belayer!)
Quote from: TobyD on September 25, 2016, 10:34:34 pmQuote from: nai on September 25, 2016, 08:24:07 pmFri - Tor - once up Body Machine, didn't really enjoy it. Second go still couldn't do moves past horrible sharp holds on lower wall (I've never done these moves in four sessions), got frustrated and sacked it off. Put clips in OT and had a single RP before the sun came round. Just missed with the long move, straight back on and went to top.you need beta! its really easy when you have a bit of knowledge, Mr Shark gave me the numbers on this, and i may even have flashed this section IIRC. My memory is shit, (and was shit before smashing my head!) so i can't be of much help. Good luck with Aberration / Wales / BM.I have the Shark beta (and beta from three other folk who have something that works for them), I really need to MTFU and just admit I am going to have to try really hard at this point, think I have some mental block about the route not even having started yet so wanting to breeze through those low moves without expending too much energy.