[fried]

A whole lot of nothing this week.

M/T/W - Nothing
Th - Indoor session, good, getting a bit more confidence at falling from height. Ankle still not perfect.
Fr - Nothing
Sa - Joint birthday party - Frozen margarita, Moldavian cognac...
Su - Fragile

[shark]

Thanks fried

11.0-2

M.

T. AM. High Tor. Met Nick at Starkholmes at 8.50am Initial plan was Raven Tor but thought we might be able dodge the humidity and heat at High Tor. Warmed up on Right Wing and moved to Left. Too hot and humid. Nick had a valiant go at Mad Max but ground to a halt at top bulge. I had a go. Couldn't do low crux. Dogged to his high point and came down. We both had another top rope before sun came round then retreated to the pub

W.

T.

F. AM. Raven Tor with Steve. Had intended to go to Malham but word from Rob Greenwood was that it was wet on thursday  Quite cool at Tor. 3 redpoint attempts at Obscene Toilet 7c. Came very close on the second go. So much for a confidence boosting perfunctory redpoint. I am shit. Steve a bit rusty on Mecca but still redpointed it 3 times

S.PM Crag X. Session on Jericho Road 7B. Conditions OK. James and Ellie showed. Made progress and managed to hold funny pinch    unfortunately with two fingers rather than three but still got left foot up. James got the Pinch. They left and I stayed on for a few more goes and to hunt for old bottles. Got to touch the funny pinch about four times. Definitely worth a return visit

S.

Felt tired today and a bit hungover so didnt go to try Sheep Shifter as planned. Typified the week really.

Big team going up to Malham on tuesday so will have two rest days and no excuses. Cooler temps look set to stay so hopefully go back friday too. Worried that my finger endurance as evidenced by failure on Obscene Gesture is below par. However bouldering and finger strength is good. Weight not excessive either. If Oak sessions go badly I will happily sack it off for the year and go trad climbing and bouldering instead

In other news Nibs will be pleased to learn I found the missing finger massager rattling around at the bottom of the washing machine.


   

[nai]

3 redpoint attempts at Obscene Toilet 7c.

Came very close on the second go. So much for a confidence boosting perfunctory redpoint.

Worried that my finger endurance is below par.

I rocked up there last Friday with the same aim and came away ego bruised too.

Are you still on Keto/low carb?  I'm finding route climbing a struggle with it and notice DMC says the same about his current endurance training.  Kind of odd that you can do big hill days no problem but struggle with climbing endurance and stamina. Might be worthwhile experimenting with carbs for climbing days.

[shark]

3 redpoint attempts at Obscene Toilet 7c.

Came very close on the second go. So much for a confidence boosting perfunctory redpoint.

Worried that my finger endurance is below par.

I rocked up there last Friday with the same aim and came away ego bruised too.

Are you still on Keto/low carb?  I'm finding route climbing a struggle with it and notice DMC says the same about his current endurance training.  Kind of odd that you can do big hill days no problem but struggle with climbing endurance and stamina. Might be worthwhile experimenting with carbs for climbing days.

Perfect. Even if not the cause its a great ego salvaging excuse.

[nai]

goals:
Autumn - Powerplant a write off and can't be arsed with fickle connies/don't feel fit enough to warrant the journey to and from Malham

So Aberration, Body Machine, (Obscene Toilet), OSing & Trad.  Ooh, might try to get on The Sissy too.

Mon - Garage bouldering.

Tue - Central Buttress - sweaty.  Bottom 30ft condensed and the rest merely smeggy. Clipped the highest bolt possible and got on with it with a slight bit of overgripping.  Slithered off Fatal Attraction low down in the smeg but managed a dodgy redpoint with the third pre clipped.  OS'd Freedom is Insane (7a) which I was pleased with in the connies. Desperately tired afterwards

W - rest

Th - High Tor - couple of RHS warm ups, belayed Nick who made an even more valiant attempt on Mad Max then onto Perseus just as the sun came round.  Hard work in 23 degrees, embarrassingly had to power scream through the Severe(?) moves past the grass and choss at the very top was so done in.  Reluctantly called it a day at that but was knackered.

Fri - still felt a bit wiped out from Thursday - did a 4x4 in garage (failed every set but got very pumped) and tried a set of FoC but didn't have anything in the tank. Core eve.

Sat-  long warm up, very quick boulder, managed one of my new projects, only 3 sessions, pretty good seeing as I couldn't even pull on the low move in session one.
Foot on campus x 2 sets. Rep one about 70% down on previous attempt but finishing times about the same.  No idea what that means.

Sun - rest

[Muenchener]

STG: ...?
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: Bike one hour
T: Bike one hour.
   Shoulders, mobility & core
W: Wall, Boulderwelt with M jnr. Light bouldering sessions
T: Shoulders, mobility & core
F: Beastmaker max hangs
S: Wall, Boulderwelt with M jnr. Circuits.
S: Had planned to do a mountainbike tour in the Alps - having finally got round to picking up a second hand mountain bike - but the weather was terrible so postponed to next weekend.
   The lad was eager go back to boulderwelt instead to work on his proj. I didn't want to do three days on, so put in a shoulders & core session in the hipster parkour room instead.

[Coops_13]

STG: Heal finger
MTG: Get solid at 7B/+
LTG: 8A

M:
T:
W:
T:
F:
S: Brean, I've done everything within my grade so tried Clashing Socks 7b, too crimpy for my finger. Dooged my way up a 7b+ and a 6c+ linkup. Nice to be by the sea but v v hot.
S: Cheddar, feeling a bit worse for wear  Did Islands in the City 7a+ first RP then dogged up Get that Man, decided to call it a day and head back to London.

Week of rest after Magic Wood, minor improvements of pulley pain. Going to the wall on Tuesday to start some light rehab.

[tomtom]

M: Logport wall. Good session 90 min or so...
T:
W: Weighted deadhangs
Th:
Fr: Fly to conference in Colorado
Sa: Talk, eat, sleep
Su: Talk, eat......

Back on Tuesday morning if anyones liming it...

[36chambers]

M: feeling pretty beaten/tweaky after a big weekend
T:
W: Gym ball core w6
T: Indoors. Excellent session doing short problems on the 50.
F:
S:
S: Foolishly spent most of the day getting shutdown in the glaring sun at rubicon. It was truly horrible. Quick hit at Burbage on my way home and managed to get a consolation tick of The Terrace. Is this genuinely regarded as 7C?

Training starts next week.

[measles23]

STG: push on up to 7Bish Churnet or peak lime
MTG: 7C on lime, get some coaching from Zippy this winter, mebbe some short peak sport
LTG: 8B, new churnet/western grit projects

73.4kg

M: Work
T: Churnet valley of the Kings -cool typical Churnet wilderness but horrid humid sweaty connies - half a dozen probs up to 7A
W: Work
T: Weighted Dead hangs BM2k small crimps (open crimp)  8 sets up to 30kg for 7 sec (5sets of 30s)
    Deadlifts - 11 sets - lifted 220kg at 73.2kg (3xBW) - this has been my target for 2 yrs so should have been major YYFY, but sadly the bar dipped a centimetre as I corrected for a slight forward lean, so would have been red lighted at comp  Couldn't even claim a Strongman lift as strong men don't sumo.. Don't think I'd even have noticed if I hadn't got it on video 3 working sets of 225 off blocks
F: Work
S: Deadhangs BM2k small crimps (open crimp) 7 sets up to 30kg for 7 sec
1 arm progressions - starting from gradually increasing lock off angle 6 sets per side
S: Stoke Awesome walls kids club - 1 hour progression up to v6, then something went pop while reaching left on a V7 and I am now in bed unable to move with torticollis - Nooooo!

Difficult start to this program but have been here many times before so will muddle on..

[Duma]

Goals:
Good trip to MW . Lots of local sport, unfinished business with cider soak from 15 years ago, identify (and if possible do) candidates for:
8A (Hunters Roof?)and 8b by next June

Body Audit: Shoulder pretty good, off work for last 2 weeks though. Pins and needles down outside of L ring finger still present, slow improvment. Bought one of those prickly rings as it was less than FA, not convinced its doing much tbh.

3 weeks in one (sorry, I've been a bad boy):

Week 341:

M: TCA for new hard set (Greens) really good session, always get psyched for new set did 17 or so out of 28
T: As above, polished off another 5 or 6
W: Drank too much, didn't sleep enough, fun night though
T: PM - drive to Cornwall
F: Most of day, drive home (7 fucking hrs) then straight on to work for night shift (last shift for a year! woohoo!! Office hours here I come!!!)
S: Sleep, then TCA for final session before Magic. Another good one, only 2 left from this set, one is just matching the finish, the other I think will have to wait for cooler temps.
S: Pack, organize, leave Bristol at 1300, Drive to some Aire between Metz and Strasbourg - stopped about 0100 Euro time.

Week 342:

M: Drive, shop before entering Switzerland, drive. Got to Magic about 1800, having taken it easy as was forecast to rain on Mon. Actually was pretty much dry having stopped by midday, but TBH was fried from all the traveling, so just went for a wander to look at stuff.
T: Day 1 - Fuck me this place is great! Grit de Luxe (7A+) and the fun 6C ish dynos on the block above - then up to Intermezzo (7C) - took 40 mins or so. Couple of other 7A's, then realised had cheated on GdL (started standing) so went back down and did it properly - several times - what a problem! Managed Slip Slap Slop (7B) next to it too. Great day.
W: Day 2 - Having decided Magic was well soft set off up to Octopussy to sort out part one of the pre 40 aim - Failed dismally... turns out you still need to be quite decent to climb 8A, even in Averstal. Couple of nice warm ups though and managed all moves on Jack Daniels (7C+) before deciding skin and temps were against me. Decided to lower sights for rest of day and boosted the ego flashing a couple of quality 7A's , then Got on Kaloreinmonster (7C) as it was next to the problem I'd just done - and suprised myself by bagging it in a few goes - no hard moves, just lots of fight required. Think it was today I did Blue Sky of Mine (6A+) which is just incredible!
T: Day 3 - Rested/jumped in river in AM, headed out about 1630 for a late aft/eve session. Worked Adi Dassler (7C), felt doabe but hadn't really warmed up enough - then up for a go at Foxy Lady (8A)- fine from the crack up, fine to RH into crack - not fine to get LH into crack (TL:DR: I couldn't do the hard move) Wonderboy (5+) is awesome though. Went back to Adi Dassler, went OK after a bit of work, flashed the neighbouring Mormon Sperm Shake (7B (but more 7A)) with top beta from Rhys. Last stop at Intermezzo - Started work on Intermezzo Left (8A) (stupid eliminate but...) taking feet out of crack seemed nails.
F: Day 4 - Skin still seemed to be holding up so back on it - Protektor (7A+) was amazing, then met Jack and Josh at Dinos Don't Dyno (7B), great fun even if jumping isn't real climbing. Did Sundenfall (7A+)(flash) and Verbotene Frucht (7A+) with them, then headed off to check out Cameltrophy (7A) as it looked good in the guide and the sit is 8A. It was ok, but a little underwhelming, and couldn't get my arse off the floor on the sit. The neighbouring Big Cheese (6C) was brilliant though. Caught Jack and Josh again on the way past Intermezzo, so had another play on the Left eliminate and suprised myself by holding the cut loose move (albeit with slight dab). Confidence boosting but hard to get excited about an eliminate on that bit of rock when you're surrounded by uber classics. Did Bosna Genial (7A) and tried Super Nova (7C) on the way back - managed in overlapping halves with only rest to rechalk - very keen to keep trying but body pretty broken by end of 4th day on.
S: Day 5 - Rest, knackered. (this was also the only day with any significant rain *smug*
S: Day 6 - Warmed up on sections of Traversetta (7A), managed it ok at end of warm up, also did Tricky (7A) second go before heading back down to Super Nova. Couple of failed attempts using my sequence from friday, then changed sequence to what Pete was doing, went pretty quick his way. Very happy with this one, wanted it a long while. Pete suggested going up to look at Fight Club (7C+) - had to share it with a few others so slightly frustratingly long waits between attempts - that said, the extra beta and decent rests probably contributed to me getting it pretty quick. Also Valentines Day (7A+). Went down to the river and did Aces and Eights (7A) - probably a bit eliminate sequence in the end but the initial way I did it felt too easy. Stopped at Bruno on the way back and managed all the lower moves (I thought....) on Du Cote du Seshuan (7C+). Didn't try finishing dyno as nobody else there and wanted a spot really. Hadn't been on the radar before the trip but well psyched for it now. Fucking ace day, one of my best bouldering days ever.

Weeks 343:

M: Day 7 - Failed a lot on the crux move of Piranja (7C+) before sacking it off before skin got too bad, shame as climbs really nicely - keen to go back for this one. Over to Rhythmo (7C+) which just looks amazing - boils down to one hard move, but it is a great fun one, good psyche from the strong german manbun team too. Pleased this went down pretty quick. Should have got on Brachial really, but stuffed my face and chilled instead. Went over to The Gift (7C) having been told variously how great it was and how shite it was. Pretty underwhelmed, but thought should have a go since I was there - flashed it! Sadly not 7C, not even close. Well named though... Then tried the neighbouring Arkanum (8A) - this is marked as expo in the guide, but appears all the hard climbing is below half height (it's a slabbly arete above). Shocked to quickly do (and link) all the way to one move from easy(er)(I'm assuming) ground. Unfortunately the move I didn't manage is just as the height/landing combo gets unsettling so I didn't have too many attempts, but I'm fairly confident it's acheivable. In the end skin was pretty painful and the fall was awkward so I sacked it. Good for one to seem within reach though.
T: Day 8 - Took morning and early afternoon off, but high hopes were dashed - body suffering by this point but I was leaving on Wed so didn't want to take a whole day off. Managed a 5 and 6B+ warming up, no other tops. Thrashed myself for 90 minutes failing on Boume de Luxe (7B) before admitting defeat. Salvaged something by sorting out the top dyno on Du Cote du Seshuan, with careful mat arrangement it was fine even sans spotter.
W: Day 9 - Last day in Switzerland - all in on Du Cote du Seshuan, up reasonably early, conditions great, arms pretty knackered, quickly realized I'd missed a foot move when I'd worked the lower moves on Sun - turns out this was by far the hardest move for me! Worked out a way to throw my RF up, but after several goes from the start failing at this point I wasn't feeling optimistic, but told myself I wouldn't leave until I was definitely going backwards on the the problem. Thought I'd blown my chance when I finally got the foot up only for my RH to blow off on the next move, but a good rest and I managed to get through the foot move again, not fuck up the last move of the lower section, and into the weird bunched hands off before the top dyno. Calmed down for a couple of minutes, before incredibly satisfying move to end the problem, and trip, on. Big smiles! Even had time for one last jump in the river before the epic (10 hour) drive to font. Arrived around midnight, in pissing rain...
T: Font - aimed to stop in as with ferry timings, it would allow me an extra half day climbing - weather didn't play ball in the end, but met up with a couple of mates for a nice chat and coffee, so worthwhile. PM drive back to Bristol.
F, S, S: nothing.

68kg (when I got back - probably putting a bit back on atm)

Fucking great trip.

[Coops_13]

Bloody good list of ticks Duma!

[Nibile]

Shark, I am indeed pleased to know that.

Mon - cleans, max 63x2! Muscle snatches. Rings, I's 30" x10, L sits 15" x5.
Tue - rest.
Wed - system static. Half crimp, fun as hell. Added 2 kg! 4 sets of 4 hangs. Brilliant. Overhead walk 2', shoulder walk 1', shrugs, speed dumbbell complex, all x2. Hard.
Thu - board climbing! Singles and short sequences. Terrified by my index fingers. Not bad anyway. Rings circuit x5.
Fri - rest.
Sat - FOA and variations, lock offs, L-sit lock offs, etc. Pleased. Snatch complex x2. Gassed.
Sun - cleans, EMOM sets 5x10 with 36 kg. Nice and quick.

[36chambers]

Goals:
Good trip to MW .

Fucking great trip.

Good effort   

identify (and if possible do) candidates for:
8A (Hunters Roof?)and 8b by next June

I can't really comment on Magic Wood grades, but it sounds like you should have no problem doing an 8A.  

[webbo]

 Mon. Bike 71.65 miles 4hrs 24 mins, felt hard due to the wind.
Tue. Hanging a round while folk viewed the house. Board did three projects first go, then it got really hot. Repeaters 5 secs 5 off X 5 3 sets with 36.5 lbs added.
Wed. Bike 67.95 miles 4 hrs 10 mins. Battered.
Thu. Board did several old problems with no kick board. Pretty good session. Bike 17.87 miles 1 hr 3 mins intervals.
Fri. Board tried a few projects, managed one.
Sat. Nothing mooching about with the missus.
Sun. Board working projects. Bike 60.56 miles 3 hrs 20 mins, planned to go steady but ended up going quite hard.

[Wood FT]

Terrace...Is this genuinely regarded as 7C?

used to be 7c+! Think you might just be strong on the compression word

[andy_e]

Training starts next week.

Wrong answer. Training starts now.

[T_B]

Quick hit at Burbage on my way home and managed to get a consolation tick of The Terrace. Is this genuinely regarded as 7C?

Not since the holds got about three times bigger than they used to be. I'm guessing it'll go in the new guidebook at 7B+. The same grade as nearby Jason's Undercut/Roof 

[36chambers]

Quick hit at Burbage on my way home and managed to get a consolation tick of The Terrace. Is this genuinely regarded as 7C?

Not since the holds got about three times bigger than they used to be. I'm guessing it'll go in the new guidebook at 7B+.

I think I prefer Wood's answer. And there I was thinking I was slowly getting better.

I certainly wouldn't argue with 7B+, although it is pretty much my style of climbing.

Wrong answer. Training starts now.

Am I okay to comb my hair first?

[Will Hunt]

Regarding Peak grading, what was the story with The Storm? 7B+ now but seen loads of stuff about it being 7C online. Did the holds get bigger or did the consensus just bring it down?

[andy_e]

Wrong answer. Training starts now.

Am I okay to comb my hair first?

The best hairdo is gained through campus-related airflow.

[Footwork]

Quick hit at Burbage on my way home and managed to get a consolation tick of The Terrace. Is this genuinely regarded as 7C?

Not since the holds got about three times bigger than they used to be. I'm guessing it'll go in the new guidebook at 7B+.

I think I prefer Wood's answer. And there I was thinking I was slowly getting better.

I certainly wouldn't argue with 7B+, although it is pretty much my style of climbing.

How did it compare to PUPP?

[Footwork]

I was going to post an entry but it can boil down to this.

Mon - Friday: Nothing but working

Weekend: Burning off Will Hunt

Pretty good week considering 

[Luke Owens]

Not a great week, feeling unmotivated after deciding to give the Diamond proj a break. Really enjoyed going elsewhere in the week though despite it being a terrible session.

M - W: Rest

T: Pen Trwyn - Warmed up on Contusion

Had a retro-flash go on Bloodsports, fell off mid crux. Went to the top then did it from before where I fell to the top again.

2nd go felt tired from the start and fell before the crux move, forearms were battered. Felt really tight and almost bruised...

Went around to the Hornby's tried to retro flash a 7a and just didn't have anything in me, had trouble even bolt-to-bolting what were clearly easy moves. Onsighted a 6b+ as a warm down and that didn't feel easy...

Not sure what's causing all this crampy/tightness in my forearms again. Possibly the extra rest is ceasing me up!

F - S: Rest

[SA Chris]

Not sure what's causing all this crampy/tightness in my forearms again. Possibly the extra rest is ceasing me up!

Stretch / foam roll / sports massage / lacrosse ball.