[ashtond6]

I just came through a 2-3 months finger injury and just did it again. So now 6 months... & a re-calibration of my 2016 goals 

Really excited about zippatrocity - just a few beta questions.

I've done all the moves in the crack, how do you finish the problem? Along the crack onto the ledge (seems hard), or up the breaks like Woodward in forgotten art?

How hard is the start to the jug/ proper crack? I avoided this due to fingers. I have been told 6B+/C, but thought it looked harder than that.

Also, does this thing stay dry all winter? Hear seepage can be a problem

Any beta tips would be appreciated, vids even better 

[kelvin]

Mate - that's bad news. Especially when you're pretty good at doing the rehab.

[ashtond6]

I know, thanks man. Few good lessons learned though about my body 

[cheque]

vids even better 

It's in Best Forgotten Art. I've got it on DVD if you want to borrow it. I'd be up for going and trying it too.

[ashtond6]

vids even better 

It's in Best Forgotten Art. I've got it on DVD if you want to borrow it. I'd be up for going and trying it too.

Bought that last night haha
Unfortunately only shows the crack, which I can do
Gonna head there tonight if you fancy it? Probably 6-dark

[cheque]

Gonna head there tonight if you fancy it? Probably 6-dark

Seaside business 'til Monday now Jonny. Up for next week though.

[ashtond6]

Gonna head there tonight if you fancy it? Probably 6-dark

Seaside business 'til Monday now Jonny. Up for next week though.

Awesome! Can't wait to see it
See you next week!

[Duncan campbell]

Might pop along this eve Jonny. Wharncliffe was warm and green last night and I'm not quite ready for the wall.

Will I need to tape up? Think my tape is at home...

[T_B]

I've never linked the whole thing, but the crux for me involved dragging crimps around the crack? I was taping up. Can't remember how it finishes.

It seeps all winter IIRC.

Duncan - Cowperstone is a midge haven, unless it's blowing this pm I'd stay well away.

[Duncan campbell]

Good chat T_B. Might give it a miss tonight then.

Which leaves the question - explore further into the bouldering at Wharncliffe (last night's brief foray to the Long John's Stride Area area was very disappointing) or resign myself to sweating around at the works...?

[slackline]

Which leaves the question - explore further into the bouldering at Wharncliffe (last night's brief foray to the Long John's Stride Area area was very disappointing) or resign myself to sweating around at the works...?

Why not save the Works entrance fee and explore the wonderful delights of Sheffields concrete boulders?

[ashtond6]

Might pop along this eve Jonny. Wharncliffe was warm and green last night and I'm not quite ready for the wall.

Will I need to tape up? Think my tape is at home...

I'll be there from 5.45 ish if you change your mind. Was no midges last night but I don't remember how windy it was.

Tape is essential!!!

Also do you work near Wharncliffe? As it's my local crag to work!

[Duncan campbell]

If tape is essential I'll give it a miss. Its also very still so defo midge potential - maybe next week!

Yeah I work just off the Woodhead Pass - maybe we should meet up at Wharncliffe one evening? Be good to climb with someone else down there - some of the bouldering looks OKish? I ended up soloing a few routes hoping they wouldnt be too hard last night as I didn't have a routes book and didnt have much time before peak area meet.

maybe catch you around soon mate!

[Andy B]

I finished along the crack.
It seeps a lot but not all winter.
The difficulty of the start depends on your forte. A guy I was trying it with used what was mid crux for me (coming round the arête) as a rest!, but really struggled with the start. I found the start a bit grim but fairly easy (although draining enough for me to need a shake out before diving into the crack). High 6 for the start is about right.
For the crack I lead with my right leg stuck in it until the arête, then switched (think I used a low foothold to avoid the dab) to a trailing left leg in the crack before dropping it out for the final crack. Success for me revolved around double fist jams (one of which was round a pebble for the index finger) not slipping while I switched feet the the crack.
And shit loads of tape.

[ashtond6]

I finished along the crack.
It seeps a lot but not all winter.
The difficulty of the start depends on your forte. A guy I was trying it with used what was mid crux for me (coming round the arête) as a rest!, but really struggled with the start. I found the start a bit grim but fairly easy (although draining enough for me to need a shake out before diving into the crack). High 6 for the start is about right.
For the crack I lead with my right leg stuck in it until the arête, then switched (think I used a low foothold to avoid the dab) to a trailing left leg in the crack before dropping it out for the final crack. Success for me revolved around double fist jams (one of which was round a pebble for the index finger) not slipping while I switched feet the the crack.
And shit loads of tape.

Thanks Andy, I did the finish tonight so good progress. I also use the same foot combo you described 

Hands are very swollen now, need more tape I think! Gloves kept coming off

Duncan, you dodged a bullet tonight. I have never seen so many midges. It was hell!

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Here's my beta.

The crux is transferring from crimps left of a vertical crack, into the start of the horizontal crack/easier section.

Rather than try using the vertical crack, press right from the crimps (standing high) into the start of the horizontal crack, where it's quite thin to start, but crucially reach into this with your right hand inverted. There's a handy constriction in the crack at this point. You can then cross through and under with your left, to the first jams in the start of the wider section.

I know someone who'd been stopped at this point for ages, but did it first go with this beta 

As for the end, there's an undercut just above the break, for the left. I didn't want to dog the second part, to keep the o/s feel, and fell off here. The next time, it was peeing with rain, so couldn't exit, but that tells you something about suitability for otherwise wet conditions - only the end gets wet, if it's not seeping. I have some weird fetish about doing it without tape too.

I'd be keen to come along if anyone heads out, and wants to pm me. Hope that helps  couldn't find the cigar-smoking smiley.

Dave.

[lagerstarfish]

couldn't find the cigar-smoking smiley

it's being held in the evidence room of Operation Yewtree

[ashtond6]

I'd be keen to come along if anyone heads out, and wants to pm me. Hope that helps  couldn't find the cigar-smoking smiley.

Thanks Dave, lots of fun stuff to try there. I've got some nice end beta now, almost rolling over on the jams. Feels ok!
Climbing is so great haha, I've now been told the crux is:
The first move
The transfer from crimps to crack
The crack
The end
 

My beta for transferring into the crack is really fun:
Lay off higher vertical crack, Rh into jug, lh into pinky fingerlock pocket, remove Rh from jug into great jam. Drop feet down, throw left foot up to a perfect heel toe behind you to the pinky jam. Bump Rh jam over leaving room for other, release heel toe whilst in amazing jams!

What about a ukb zippatrocity session one evening next week?

[DAVETHOMAS90]

What about a ukb zippatrocity session one evening next week?

That sounds like a cracking idea. I'll watch this space!

[SA Chris]

That sounds like a cracking idea.

Loving your work.

[36chambers]

Pete Whittaker posted a video of himself doing (most of) it on his Instagram yesterday.

[cheque]

What about a ukb zippatrocity session one evening next week?

 

[ashtond6]

What about a ukb zippatrocity session one evening next week?

That sounds like a cracking idea. I'll watch this space!

What about a ukb zippatrocity session one evening next week?

 

How about Wednesday, finger depending? I should be there Tuesday also

Pete Whittaker posted a video of himself doing (most of) it on his Instagram yesterday.

(Instagram vid is great, thanks 36 Chambers!)