Hello folks,
Having moved close to New Mills, I've started doing lots of evening sessions after work at that crag. A couple of questions on some problems:
Bionics Wall Left 6c+/direct 7a - according to UKC this has lost some holds. Is it still a similar grade?
Do you grab the triangular hold with both hands now (opposing) and then bump up to a grotty looking small finger rail? Seemed pretty desperate to me but maybe I'm just piss weak or missing an obvious foothold (likely both).
Bionics Wall Right - 6b+ - Did this use to be significantly easier with the sidepull which used to be there on Bionics Wall Direct? I can't even get off the ground? Can anyone provide any beta on how to get to the sloper?
Bionics Traverse - 7a+ absolutely awesome training trying it. Miniscule feet, super technical and burly at the same time. Is this still 7a+ or harder having lost that sidepull at Bionics Direct?
Thanks for the beta folks. If anyone needs a training buddy, I think I'll be going there often during the week this autumn, give me a shout.
Happy climbing!