Thanks Duma and Luke, Hopefully it will get some attention but I'm not holding my breath. We have usually had the crag to ourselves and good conditions including on days when people have complained about poor conditions elsewhere.
took daughter bouldering. She loved it. Great to take her out and her to be into it.
Quote from: Duma on August 08, 2016, 01:08:28 amtook daughter bouldering. She loved it. Great to take her out and her to be into it. Brilliant feeling isn't it
Such a beautiful spot. Few easy things for me. Great to take her out and her to be into it.
S - Drove to the Tor. Warmed up. Popped Finger pulley on Weedkiller Traverse. Lost my flapjack. Drove back to London 3 1/2 hour drive took 6 hours. NNFN. After the progress I've made and the stupid number of injuries I've overcome this year, this was pretty devastating for me. Never heard an actual pop from my finger till now, the pain isn't really that bad but it hurts if I try and pull on anything. Seeing doctor tomorrow and hopefully specialist ASAP. Not looking good for Magic Wood in four weeks
Went over to try a bigger tail - got to the rock up for the high finger pocket thing every time, but didnt quite have the same beans/bounce/power that I had pre birth. But otherwise encouraged.
You got one move from the top, isn't it just a pop to the jug from there?
Good couple of weeks, kids, youngest especially, did great. Psyched for more and both want to go back to the mountains. I make that a Result. Just need to find some suitable Peak lime for them to climb now.
Quote from: galpinos on August 09, 2016, 10:19:02 amYou got one move from the top, isn't it just a pop to the jug from there?Usually, yes. I suspect Tom doesn't want to finish this one off. He either likes moaning about polish and grades or being without a phone signal for a few hours.
I guess there's some decent long MP routes to do in the Alps so no need to drag everyone to Squamish just for Grand Wall.
Quote from: nai on August 09, 2016, 11:48:25 amI guess there's some decent long MP routes to do in the Alps so no need to drag everyone to Squamish just for Grand Wall.http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=67774Was always one I wanted to do, but never did. Bit easier than GW, but a bit longer..
And a lot looser judging by the logbook comments
Sometimes they clear up quickly... You can hear mine popping at 1:43 on this and it took only a couple of months to be back to normal (though that was fast). Rest it for a week or so then start climbing on jigs open handed.
Quote from: nai on August 09, 2016, 10:59:30 amQuote from: galpinos on August 09, 2016, 10:19:02 amYou got one move from the top, isn't it just a pop to the jug from there?Usually, yes. I suspect Tom doesn't want to finish this one off. He either likes moaning about polish and grades or being without a phone signal for a few hours.Overlooking the fact it's on 6c if you don't do the jump.......... he pisses it!I always thought the right hand out right method was wack and have always gone straight up with the left after the post jump match but he make sit look a doddle. Hmmmmm......Tomtom, you were in there! Get it ticked.
Quote from: galpinos on August 09, 2016, 11:50:58 amQuote from: nai on August 09, 2016, 10:59:30 amQuote from: galpinos on August 09, 2016, 10:19:02 amYou got one move from the top, isn't it just a pop to the jug from there?Usually, yes. I suspect Tom doesn't want to finish this one off. He either likes moaning about polish and grades or being without a phone signal for a few hours.Overlooking the fact it's on 6c if you don't do the jump.......... he pisses it!I always thought the right hand out right method was wack and have always gone straight up with the left after the post jump match but he make sit look a doddle. Hmmmmm......Tomtom, you were in there! Get it ticked.Its 'different' doing it the RH out method... more shouldery, but less pull up-y if that makes sense. You can even straight arm the moves to sharing the two higher crimps (though it feels a bit weird..). The hold you pop for the top from is not especially pleasant- though is positive if you get it in the right way... anyway, today I was even worse at it and only got to sharing the two higher crimps twice... A newborn baby means you are often up early to be able to sneak out to the crag whilst MrsTT is catching up on some ZZZ's... but the 4 hours of sleep beforehand left me in a less than correctly prepared state..
Just climb faster
Quote from: nai on August 12, 2016, 03:54:52 pmJust climb fasterDon't listen to him Tom, he's just a slappy weakling, jealous of your manly static strength!