If you can hang either 3 finger open on the large holds or 2 fingers (one arm) on any of them then I reckon you should be able to climb harder than 7a.
I am still not really bouldering harder than Font 7a, and no my technique isn't that terrible Any advice would be much appreciated.
However the shallower slots and crimps seem impossible for now.
Has anyone any feedback on the endurance aspect of the beastmaker workouts, and why they are so long?
Dexter, I hang with a slight bend to avoid shoulder injury. However it's harder to maintain on one arm
Tim,I'm pretty good on crimps. I had no problems doing a few pull ups on the tiny edges on the moon hang board. I would think it's always going to be harder to one hand hangs on crimps rather than slots.
Quote from: mctrials23 on July 28, 2016, 09:35:35 amIf you can hang either 3 finger open on the large holds or 2 fingers (one arm) on any of them then I reckon you should be able to climb harder than 7a.No shit I've done 7B+ and I can't one arm hang any of them!
I've climbed 7c+/8a and can barely one arm hang a bar. It amazes me the level of finger strength so prevalent on the climbing forums!
Quote from: rjtrials on July 28, 2016, 06:11:54 pmI've climbed 7c+/8a and can barely one arm hang a bar. It amazes me the level of finger strength so prevalent on the climbing forums!Same here. I can barely one-arm hang a bar, certainly not an edge, but have scraped my way up routes up to 8a+ (including a few fingery ones), and whilst I am not the boulderer I was, I suspect I could get up a few font7b+s. I guess it shows the benefit of having the opportunity and access to make up for a lack of talent with a willingness to siege.