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Beginners wall-middle age spread and bigger slap (Read 2557 times)

simon40

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Some help needed please. Looked at this tonight, up the groove, left across the wall to the good niche hold, up right the sharp finger edges then stuck. Does this go up left to the jug via very thin pockets, desperate, or right up via good under cut finishing slightly right of the belay

Kingy

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I don't have my topo to hand but I have done Middle ledge spread, the right hand line. Is this the route you are describing? If so, it does involve some pretty sharp gnarly pockets.

simon40

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Yes that's the one, and agree narly pockets most of the way, it is just the top bit am confused about, unsure if to go direct leftish to massive jug via thin pocketed crack seam thing, which seems hard, or to the right using a nice undercut pocket out right of the belay which is easier

Ru

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If I remember:

Beginners Wall: Up short groove on right, trav left to vague ramp, cruxy move to flatty thing, use undercut pod thing to reach right to the arete/top of crag, traverse top of crag up and left to belay.

Bigger Slap: after cruxy move to flatty thing, do a massive slap up and left direct to belay, avoiding the moves out right and back left. Can also be done with a gaston pocket thing I think.
« Last Edit: July 29, 2016, 02:34:19 pm by Ru »

Eddies

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Hi Simon,
It's Eddie from Buxton... If you need a partner for this at any point let me know.
I've sent you a private message with my phone number ;)

 

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