M: Core
T: Rest
W: Gorge - First time on "Grand Canyon" (7b+), got to be up there with one of the best of it's grade in the UK. Amazing euro-style route. Went bolt-to-bolt and found the big moves tricky to work out, complete anti-style for me. Worked out most of the moves on my 2nd bolt-to-bolt go. Felt tricky.
T: 15 mins LI-Aerocap
F: Rest
S: Had planned to get out but had to cancel due to little one no. 2 not being well, spent the morning in Out-of-Hours.
S: Gorge - Back on "Grand Canyon" - Felt a lot easier this time, bolt-to-bolt to get clips in, most moves refined. Did some small links.
Had a redders and came off spending to long in a pocket by the 4th clip - hot aches. 2nd redders felt better but fell off again on big move by 4th clip. Turns out my "don't go big" use the smears and small non-hold method is rubbish. Opted for the full dyno pocket to jug instead, much easier and more fun. No time for another go so bolt-to-bolted to the top and worked some more moves.
New beta should see me past the 4th clip next sesh, hopefully endurance should improve too, pumpy route! Good training for the Diamond!
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Heading to the Peak on Saturday for 5 nights to climb with the family, can't wait to show them the grit, little one and missus are super psyched to climb. Can't wait!
