[csl]

STG - End of August
 
Get on an 8a - should get at least 3 or 4 days out in August.

MTG - End of the year

Climb an 8a

Tick a few off this list

Dominatrix, New Dawn, Biological Need, Tennessee, Paradise Lost, Realm of Chaos, Colours, Stay Golden, Frazzled

LTG - 2017

more trad, onsight 7c

Mon

Hard Boulders @ Arch

Managed a V6, made some progress on a V8, made minor progress on my board problem.

40 mins Arc

Wed

Volume Boulders @ Biscuit

60 problems up to V6

Sat

Boulders + AnCap

Did lots of stuff up to about V6

Then ancap on the circuit board, a bit hard as was usually falling off after 8 moves. 8 reps, 2 mins rest. 

Sun

AeroCap 20 mins

Repeaters, 5 on 10 off. 5 reps, 2 sets

1 pad edge, half crimp + 5kg
16kg pinch blocks, still felt really hard
middle 2, big pockets.

This week - 2x Boulder, 90 mins Aerocap, 1x Fingerboard, 1x AnCap

[Muenchener]

STG (July/August): get a couple of decent alpine rock routes done.
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

In which my employer organises a piss-up in a brewery.

M: Can't remember
T: Company party. We drank the brewery  dry before proceeding to cave in the floor of a concert hall   
W: Spent the wee small hours pimping the web page for my project at work.
T: Project launch party: a subdued affair compared to Tuesday.
F: Sleep
S: Wall, Boulderwelt with M jnr. Light bouldering session.
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. Circuits then a play in the parkour/crossfit/hipster room. Tyre flips, box jumps, TGUs. Absolutely wasted afterwards.

[shark]

Thanks csl

10.11-12 (not including outlier reading on Monday)

M. AM Spent exploring obscure quarries and crags for new routes and problems. PM eatswood Good conditions with on-crag breeze. Go 1 failed on crux Go 2 Failed to match finishing ledge (punched wrist instead of crossing over arm - klutz) Go 3 failed after crux pumping out on low crimps (should have rested longer than 30mins Go 4 1hour+ rest inc nap Got to end again and this time failed to match ledge due to pump. Next time I’ll see if I can alter finishing move to bump again instead of crossing through.

T. Had hoped to go High Tor but Nai wasn’t able to do a full day so went to Tor instead.  Thought it would be humid but quite fresh at crag. Met nai there. Went on Obscene Toilet 7c. Despite being tired from Monday did much better on Obscene Toilet than before so endurance campaign definitely working. Unfortunately, didn’t get the tick but got through the crux 4 times (I think) on redpoint but struggled each time on crimpy gaston above to hold it and push through to large undercut. Zippy bolted the roof left of the Prow which I was hoping to do later in the year. Drat. On way back had a couple of hours furkling around unfashionable crags and secret quarries

W.

T. Out with trilobite fancier Jonboy. Went to check out cleaned routes at Chee Tor . I led Meditation E1 and Approaching E3. Someone on 42nd Street so had a go at Queer Street (hard) E3 but backed off the layback. Jon did it and then I led it. Jon had a go at Autobahn E5 but he was a bit pressed for time so he sacked it off.   

F. Eve. Fingerboard. Outrageously protracted session (nearly 5 hours! ) with long rests between hangs but got really good scores. Now down to 3.5 kg assistance for right arm and 6kg assistance for left arm on 3x10sec one armed hangs on large slot. Also managed 3 x 10secs with +17.5kg on 16mm edge half crimped though did 9 secs and 7 secs with +30kg with a drag at the end by which time it was nearly midnight

S.

S.PM Late start as bit fragile from a party the previous evening. Scorching. Took boys out to Clifftop Boulders. Not been there before. Luverly spot. Hid in the shade of the cave between goes. Good to have on-crag breeze but problems still in the sun. Did some good medium level problems the hardest of which was the 6C high traverse. Wore skin and power out trying Boing Boy 7A. Finally had a go at Overhanging Arete 6C but strained my ribs and felt wasted anyway. Good session despite the heat. Main thing was that the boys liked the venue and enjoyed the day out.   

Explored some interesting nooks and crannies in the Peak this week. Just goes to show that after 33 years climbing in the area there is still stuff to be discovered off piste.


Going well at the moment – light, fit and strong – for me that is. Pleased to have upped the volume over the last few weeks and got a reasonable level of endurance now but currently feeling a bit jaded so going scale plans back by having more rest days this week to rejuvenate body and soul.

Booked to go out with Dave Turnbull on Tuesday and Stacked Sam on Thursday – probably trad climbing at High Tor and Chee Tor. Maybe have a look at Roadrunner and Autobahn.

Also seem to have committed to doing Caveman at Berry Head in the Autumn with Duncan for Cheque’s Sea Cliff film – Its unfinished business for me as I’d done with a rest point 23 years ago so hoping I do it clean this time     

[Duma]

Goals:
Summer - lots of local sport, unfinished business with cider soak from 15 years ago, tick Neath Abbey, identify (and if possible do) candidates for:
8A (Hunters Roof?)and 8b by next June

69kg

Body Audit: shoulder worse, def need to organise to see someone soon. No pain climbing, but I'm guessing it isn't helping.

M: Throat still sore overnight, but ok during day - so TCA in eve, probably shouldn't have, but did most of the rest of the new hard set prob including a couple of mid 7's - 4 left.
T: 5 narrow press ups, 10 narrow thumb out pull ups. throat much improved.
W: TCA eve. Not a great session, low psyche, but got up 2 more Oranges.
T: TCA eve. Much better session, despite no new ticks. sorted foot sequence for the big roof orange - this'll be 7C+ ish and not my style so getting it done should be a good training goal. campusing - couldn't repeat 1-4-6.5 leading with left, tagged it several times though, and did it twice leading with right. Some pitiful attempts at one armed deadhangs and pull ups - I'm really bad at one armed stuff! Increased PB on narrow press ups to 6! Started to feel head coldy when I got home.
F: work, head coldy all day.
S: Nothing bar entertaining the offspring, still feeling rough all morning - improving through the afternoon.
S: Hanging out with sprog. Not 100%, but a lot better. 5 narrow press ups, 10 narrow thumb out pull ups.

Meh. Ill off and on, shoulder sore, heavy again.

[nai]

goals:
summer - new training block -  maintain fitness, get stronger
Autumn - climb dry, nest free rock

Mehnday - heavy weekend, nowt

T - Tor with Shark, with his beta eventually managed the big move on Obscene Toilet. Two working goes then two RPs but didn't have the lower wall worked out anything like well enough and wasted too much energy getting to the hard bit.  Schoolboy stuff.  Did manage a link pulling on doing the crux then going to the top.  Confident it'll go with a bit of refinement, on the list for Autumn.

W - arrived at Harpur Hill at the same time as blatters started on the windscreen, a leaden sky ahead prompted a check of the radar. Drove home.

Th - Smalldale & Harpur- bit of mileage, 6 routes all OS including 2x6c & 2x7a (Can Boys & Cairn). Decent day but I did avoid trying Soggy Biscuits although it was getting muggy and the flies were pestering past the point of annoyance.

F rest

S
AM - 6 x 7 on 3 off Repeaters - 1/2 crimp and drag
PM - LI AeroCap

S -
worked out a new AnCap circuit in the garage, ground to a halt after 2 of 3 intended sets.
pullups

Second peak block now finished, gone ok; couple of 7cs, lots of  7a/+ onsights and a 7b flash. Now back to training over summer holidays.

[shark]

but I did avoid trying Soggy Biscuits

Top life tip

[Coops_13]

STG: Get fit/strong again! And heal new finger/hand injury
MTG: Get solid on 7B/+ boulder and 7b/+ sport and find/do a project
LTG: 8A & 8a

M - Indoors, good session. Was doing a lot of pinching, RH started hurting under the little finger so I stopped. Did some core, went home.
T - Hand seized up could barely clench fist
W - Seized up hand
T - WFH to ice hand, put it on table and pressed down. A few clicks and almost all the pain went. Hand now oscillating between achey and fine.
F - Decided to drive up to Yorkshire anyway and take it easy if hand was a bother
S - Brimham. Did Big Green 7A+ (6c-7Aish) then went on Crimpy Roof. Went from it being impossible to falling off the top a number of times. Much skin and shouting later and I got it ticked, video to follow. Psyched as that's my first 7B/+ for a while (must be soft). Also burnt a mate off for the first time  Did Cubic Block Traverse 7A which was grim and green. Puntered on a number of other 7s but too tired, good day.
S - Conies Dale, first visit. Did a few 7s, Toutts, Yeobah and Jaa. Really liked the venue quite different to other lime venues in Peak. Bigger moves and straight-ups.

Sick weekend, hand didn't hurt at all while climbing, just a bit achey before and after.

[duncan]

STG: Don’t get injured. Maintain good shoulder rehab. habits. Hip strengthening and walk-in fitness for Picos and Switzerland. Try an E4... E5?
MTG: various LH&F - Excalibur, Wendenstock; Rabada-Navarro, Naranjo de Bulnes; Sea-cliff E5 by the end of Summer. Don’t embarrass myself on Caveman. Lose 2.5kg .
LTG: Font 7a. Sport 7b+. Something properly long, hard and free (and ideally in condition in August).

M - Shoulder strength/stability exercises: side-planks, dips, horizontal rows, biceps curls etc. Tired from weekend.
T - Westway: 25 mins aerocap./recovery. Still tired.
W - Westway: fridge bouldering: to V3/4 (managed one of the steeper blacks).
T - Westway: 30 mins aerocap
F - Shoulder strength/stability exercises. Pull-ups.
S - Westway: fridge bouldering. 45 minute session between bouts of childcare but managed another of the steeper V3/4 blacks.
S - Walk around Hampstead Heath (sore hip). Shoulder strength/stability exercises. Pull-ups.

Thought of applying for a pass for Sunday but happy with a decent training week. I snack a lot when I'm tired, with unfortunate consequences. Hope trips help get weight back down.

Plan: Summer of climbing starts on Thursday   Font. for 6 days, en famille but I'm sure I'll manage some evening sessions. I need to address a long-standing weakness on steeper ground. I had started to work on this but when a man knows he will be trying Caveman in two months, it concentrates his mind wonderfully.

[Footwork]

STG (sept): Metal Guru, Smouldering Globules, 7th Aardvark, Personal Services
LTG (dec): Shoulder rehab and loads of yorkshire trad

Mon: Shoulder and physio work

Tues:

Weds: Kilnsey in the morning. Warmed up on Directissima and then put clips in Metal Guru. Could do all the moves and got a really smooth flow going on the bottom. Had 2 RP's but kept dropping the crux. Right hand pocket just never felt good however I held it.

Thurs: Shoulder and physio work

Fri: Kilnsey again. Warmed up, put the clips in Guru and then managed to wrestle my way up. Both right hand and foot came off mid crux so big left hand lock and screaming kept me on from barn-dooring off. I hadn't actually done the top half in a oner before which made it exciting. Really enjoyed the route and first 7c 

Sat: Brimham with Huw. Absolutely humbled. Tried Jokers Wall Arete and didn't make the grade. Didn't fully trust lobbing onto some big cams before finding an excellent piece. The finger tip toeing felt desperate and then the top move was a bit of a struggle. Too hot and tired but those are rubbish excuses  Not been shut down like that since Charming Crack. I really enjoy the process of working a route ground up. Will be back for that, Jokers Wall and the Crack (looks hard) when temps drop a bit.

Sun: catching pokemon innit

[monkoffunk]

STG: climb Everyday Lives of Ordinary People. Find 7c+ project.
MTG: 1. French 7c+, before 1/1/17. 2. Get into shape for Spain
3. Tick unfinished business list (5/13).
4. Font 7B before 1/1/17.
LTG: 1. Cider Soak and Academic, before 1/1/18. 2. Font 7B+, before 1/1/18.

M - Board session at Red Spider. Finish strong! Keep getting this wrong. Tried to do some ARC after but got too pumped on something like a French 5 circuit so sacked it.

T - Bit on board to warm up including new problem that hopefully will be part of ancap circuit in future, but couldn't link twice together today! After warm up 6 laps on current ancap circuit. Do need a new one soon I think! Comp wall reset next week though so hopefully then.

W - Work/rest

T - Work/rest

F - Planned Portland bouldering off due to illness, but recovered enough over morning for board session. Good session, almost did a problem!

S - Picnic in London with old friends.

S - Nothing. Weight is currently 77.1kg. Down from pre return to climbing weight of 82kg, up from low around 72/3kg. Some is muscle, some is too many parties and not enough will power. Committed to sort it out last week and failed so no choice this week or might undo all the good work! Aim to be down this time next week.

[Three Nine]

STG: climb Everyday Lives of Ordinary People. Find 7c+ project.
MTG: 1. French 7c+, before 1/1/17. 2. Get into shape for Spain
3. Tick unfinished business list (5/13).
4. Font 7B before 1/1/17.
LTG: 1. Cider Soak and Academic, before 1/1/18. 2. Font 7B+, before 1/1/18.

Tried to do some ARC after but got too pumped on something like a French 5 circuit so sacked it.

'tried to train an area of weakness. Realized I was weak at it. So decided not to train it'.

F5 circuits on circuit boards are rarely going to be anywhere near actual F5. Even real F5 might be pushing it for ARC for many people (including me)

[filz]

Easy week for me due to a sore wrist from the past weekend.

M. rest
T. board climbing. Light session
W. yoga
T. nothing. Skunk Anansie concert 
F. A couple of hours of bouldering after work. Wrist still bugging me.
S. nothing. Eat a lot
S. Sport climbing. Wrist is still recovering. Did not try anything hard.

[monkoffunk]

'tried to train an area of weakness. Realized I was weak at it. So decided not to train it'.

F5 circuits on circuit boards are rarely going to be anywhere near actual F5. Even real F5 might be pushing it for ARC for many people (including me)

Fair enough, good point.

I guess I was trying to avoid pump but yeah, clearly I need to do more.

[Three Nine]

you could have used all footholds, all holds, or just traversed around for hours on a vert bit of walls. certain 9a stamina klowns spent hours and hours travving round on buckets on the old novelty kids wall at the works.

[Nibile]

Mon - ab wheel x100. Six minutes of pain. Barbell shrugs. Extremely tired. Boiling hot.
Tue - rest.
Wed - Doms. BM crimp session, very good despite it being ages since last session. Overdid it a little bit. Barbell shrugs, barbell complex.
Thu - Max cleans, max snatch high pulls, FOA, rings. Beautiful.
Fri - rest.
Sat - muscle snatch x5, bentover row x10, L-sit pull ups x5; all x10. 1' rests. Phew.
Sun - BM one arm incut rung +16/20, poor. One lap of low intensity PE, poor, dropped 30" from PB but was expecting it after the fingerboarding. Also forearms tired from Saturday's session. Dumbbell complex x2, shoulder carry. Tired.

[tomtom]

First post in c.2 weeks.

Basically, on Friday I went to the wall for 90 min and had a good session... however in the last two weeks....

Sat 2nd July - 9AM, MrsTT booked in for induction of TT jnr at St Marys, Manchester.... After just about responding to the induction drugs in a real 'only just' scenario, MrsTT then waited 3.5 days before being moved to the delivery suite at 5am on Thursday 7th July... MrsTT was desperate to have a natural birth and avoid a C section. She was so strong! 14 hours contractions with no pain relief, before it got too much and she asked for the diamorphine...
At 5:15am on the 8th, all the pushing part started, except the little rogue to be had turned 180 degrees to face the wrong way so at 6:15am or so, consultants were called and she was rushed to theatre for an assited forceps birth. At 7:14am on the 8th July, TT jnr came into the world, in a theatre the size of a badminton court with about 20 medical staff in attendance. Baby all well and good, mother sore and with many stitches 'down under' :-/ but not a C section (lost 1.5 litres of blood though!!)... Mother and baby were then kept in post natal for 5+ days until Weds 13th (jaundice for him, blood pressure problems for Mother)...

For me, 2-3 all nighters and in between 12 hour shifts at the hospital... great to be out now and testing our limits of sleep deprivation... been hoping to get out a bit more since, but MrsTT isn't too mobile so I'm having to do alot of additional fetching and carrying etc.. plus - if you have the choice of 2-3 hours to go to the wall, or 2-3 hours to double your last days worth of sleep - sleep tends to win!

On the plus side, I've managed not to put on any weight. Onwards!

[Coops_13]

S - Brimham. Did Big Green 7A+ (6c-7Aish) then went on Crimpy Roof. Went from it being impossible to falling off the top a number of times. Much skin and shouting later and I got it ticked, video to follow.

First ever attempt at editing:

[a dense loner]

Cool looking problem!

[the_dom]

Congrats TT!

Not the best week last week - felt quite tired. Think it may be due

Monday: Lunchtime treadmill, PM indoor bouldering and max hangs.
Tuesday: Lunchtime treadmill, PM crossfit
Wednesday: PM Bouldering and max hangs
Thursday: PM Crossfit - very hard session.
Friday: Lunchtime treadmill
Saturday: Bailed on a Rocklands trip due to feeling really tired. Slept in and snuck in a short indoor session. Unsurprisingly, it wasn't a very good session.
Sunday: Outdoor bouldering. A day full of failure. Felt rather tired throughout.

[Muenchener]

Congratulations TomTom

[Footwork]

S - Brimham. Did Big Green 7A+ (6c-7Aish) then went on Crimpy Roof. Went from it being impossible to falling off the top a number of times. Much skin and shouting later and I got it ticked, video to follow.

First ever attempt at editing:

Where's the video of Nathaniel trying? 

[Nibile]

Edited. Double post.

[fried]

Nothing much.

Tues - First indoor session, traversed a couple of inches off the ground and did a couple of v. easy probs. Novelty wore off pretty quickly. Aircast worked fine.

Fri - First outdoor session, Rocher des Potets, did a few yellow problems, invented some traverses, a bit sore afterwoods, but in a good way. Managed not to trip over anything all day.

[petejh]

STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), by mid July
MTG:
LTG: 8c, by June 2018


M.
T. Wanted to get to tor but no partners. Quick hour on the Orme on Drive By wall, did Where's my Hippo and then the ss.
W.
T. Same as Tues, keen for the tor but couldn't get a partner. Went back to Drive By wall after work, did Hip Hop and a couple of easier things.
F.
S. Running theme - no partner for the tor. Aranged to go to Devil's Gorge but partner had to cancel. Went to Little Orme in evening and tried Caveman. Spent a while trying to work out beta, didn't send. Had too many goes on Rampant Rabbit but didn't finish it.
S. Devil's Gorge in the evening. Low energy, maybe the heat maybe a stressful week at work. Put clips in Devil's Haircut and worked out moves. One redders fell throwing for top crux. Got dark, stripped it by headtorch.


Frustrating end to my Mecca attempts, haven't been able to get on it in the last two weeks - first week too busy at work and second week no partners available. That's the end of this period, wanted to give it 12-14 sesh's, only ended up having 6 sessions. Dissapointing return on the training. Despite that I felt like I did ok, managed every move and linked the start to the scoop, the traverse into the backhand razor, the groove to the top. I'll probably come back to it in late Septemeber when it's cooler and after a period of power training. France on Friday and some quick ticks as goals for August.

[Duma]

Goals:
Summer - lots of local sport, unfinished business with cider soak from 15 years ago, tick Neath Abbey, identify (and if possible do) candidates for:
8A (Hunters Roof?)and 8b by next June

Beastly Squirrel did the extension to Half State at Neath yesterday (despite the brutal heat!) at 8A+, so think the neath abbey goal may have to be shelved...