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UKB Power Club Week 333 4th - 10th July 2016 (Read 8570 times)

petejh

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STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), by mid July
MTG:
LTG: 8c, by June 2018


M.
T.
W. Kettlebell workout
T. Flew to NI.
F. Hen Mountain. Slabtastic runout fun.
S. Started developing mega venue x. YYFY, like having a significant chunk of Cheedale or A55 crags all to myself. First route's a brill tecky slightly overhanging face climb, around 7c.
S. Damp day in Belfast.


Quite week mecca-wise, far too busy at week pre-audit. Same this week. But well psyched to be back in new route mode.

Luke Owens

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M: Core

T: Rest

W: Dinbren - Back on the proj, great conditions, overcast and breezey for a change! Put clips in and warmed up doing top section 3 times, felt smooth and sloper felt sticky for a change.

Had a redders, made it to previous highpoint and manged to make the hard 3rd clip off the sloper, new it was on. did the next few tricky moves to the half rest below the bulge, all of a sudden I got hot aches and the adrenaline hit me, took some time to calm down. Suprised at my recovery on the bad rest position, did the next few ticky moves through the bulge to another rest which is mainly on the feet, feet felt pumped...! Had visions of glory while resting and decided I wasn't going to drop the top no matter what although I know people who have, set off from the rest pretty pumped still but the top moves felt easy, massive rush clipping the chains after 16 sessons on it over 3 years, first 7c, psyched!

Here's a vid, rests are edited out because I spent far to long in them:



T: Rock rings, 20mm incut deadhangs -
R1: 10s
R2: 10s (+2.5kg)
R3: 10s (+5kg)
R4: 10s (+7.5kg)
R5: 9s (+10kg)
R6: 9s (+10kg)

F: Repeaters - open hand on 30mm pockets - 4 x (5s on 5s off x 6) 2 mins between sets.

S: Rest

S: Rest
« Last Edit: July 12, 2016, 11:23:48 am by Luke Owens »

shurt

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Well done everyone, you're a hotbed of psyche.

STG: get outside for more climbing - Berry Head start of August if weather good.
LTG: 8a, V8, E5 again

here's two weeks worth.

Week before last
Managed to get back on with training and felt well off the pace, think I did three short sessions.

Last week
Managed two sessions in the week and could only manage smaller sets so didn't feel optimistic about climbing at the weekend.
Sunday: arranged to meet Bruce at Bovey Woods (I know, crazy in the summer) and we headed for Slotted Wall. Amazingly after a short warm up and working out the moves (heelhook was key) I managed to get it done. It equals top whack for me (it might be a bit soft for V7) so was pleased. Went to look at Calcanium Crisis afterwards and couldn't even get off the ground, there's the reality check. Skin was then shot. Tried the Woodsman, shut down on that too. Spent the rest of my time trying to find loads of other problems and failing. 

To all you with Berry Head motivation, I am planning to climb at Berry Head with a friend from Devon on one day out of Monday to Thursday on the first week of August, I'll be picking the best weather day. If anyone is up for it let me know. Early starts are important as it gets the sun all morning and falling in in the afternoon / evening can result in semi hypothermia (from personal experience!)

webbo

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Mon. Rode to work and back 20 miles each way.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. 30 warm up problems, then repeaters 5 sec on 5 off X 5 5 sets with 28.25 lbs added.
Thu. Rode to work and back. 20 miles each way.
Fri. Bike 71.29 miles 4 hrs 11 mins.
Sat. Same as Wednesday.
Sun. Same as Saturday but increased added weight to 31 lbs.
 

Wood FT

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Well done Luke

 

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