[csl]

STG - the next 6 weeks
 
Get on an 8a

MTG - next 3 months

Tick a few off this list

Dominatrix, New Dawn, Biological Need, Tennessee, Paradise Lost, Realm of Chaos, Colours, Stay Golden, Frazzled

LTG - end of year

8a

Mon

volume boulders up to V5
40 minutes Arc

Wed

Limit bouldering, made one up on the board. Can just hang the holds, so could be a long term project...
Arc - 15 mins

Fri

Fingerboard + AnCap

Repeaters, 5 on 10 off, 5 reps.

1 pad edge, half crimp x 3
16kg pinch blocks x 3
deep middle 2 pockets x 3

Pinches felt hard, other two grips easy. Add weight next week. Then thought i'd see how my one arm hangs were feeling like, managed to hang hold 14 on the beastmaker for 3 seconds 1 armed. YYFY, stupid strength goal done.

AnCap - didnt really manage to get intensity right, need to work out problems beforehand next week.
8 reps, 3 mins rest between.


This week - 2x Boulder, 75 mins Arc, 1x Fingerboard, 1x AnCap

[monkoffunk]

STG: climb Everyday Lives of Ordinary People. Find 7c+ project.
MTG: 1. French 7c+, before 1/1/17. 2. Get into shape for Spain
3. Tick unfinished business list (5/13).
4. Font 7B before 1/1/17.
LTG: 1. Cider Soak and Academic, before 1/1/18. 2. Font 7B+, before 1/1/18.

M - Board session at Red Spider. Psyched to do all moves on hard project, will be hardest thing I've done. Slightly concerned it might be very easy to become a better board climber than rock climber.

T - Rest

W - Cheddar. Totally shut down on The Wrist Business. Did Spy in the Sky instead which some seem to think is 7b+ but is actually pretty soft at 7b. Quite hot and felt quite ill for some reason.

T - Back at the Remnant in Cheddar. Got on Everyday Lives of Ordinary People, a 7c which is a fairly powerful 6C+/7A off the ground to good rest followed by roughly 7b to the top. Lot of people dislike the boulder, but that might just be a route climbers perspective. I thought it was excellent! Best redpoint attempt was last go of day ending with scuffing hand on wall rather than holding a large undercut jug after which I think I'd have had a reasonable chance of hanging on to the end. No tick, but much more enjoyable climbing than previous day, big psych boost. Current short term goal now focused on getting it done!

F - Leaving Bristol and heading to Bournemouth. Went via Avon Gorge to try the Arête Problem at 7A. Took quite a few goes! Demonstrated my technical weaknesses.

S - Rest

S - Rest

Couple of ticks, not too bad! Next two weeks big focus on getting back to Everyday Lives in best possible form.

[shark]

Then thought i'd see how my one arm hangs were feeling like, managed to hang hold 14 on the beastmaker for 3 seconds 1 armed. YYFY, stupid strength goal done.

Sweet!


10.11-12

M.
T. AM High Tor with Jonboy. Apprehensive and excited about the prospective new route. Placed a bolt for the final belay and Jon loweered me off for so I could do the hard moves on the first pitch and finish up Robert Brown as a warm up. The runout was scary and I got a bit of leg wobble but managed to hold it together then cautiously finished the rest of the pitch. Had virtually no gear by time got to the belay in the Original Route groove so it was fortunate that Id left a rope in place as a back up. Going around the rib wasnt neary as hard as I thought it would be and the position on the juggy rail was tremendous. The rest of the traverse was  sublime pocket climbing on perfectr rock and as opposed to the first pitch were I wanted it over as soon as possible I didnt want the second pitch to end. Jon then did a short 5b pitch to finish and we headed over to the Left Wing. Jon had a go on High Torquing which although looks a good feature unfortunately has grim gnarly moves and Jon bailed and instead had a go at my old route Wil E Coyote which he enjoyed more and thankfully didnt make it look too easy 

W.

T. AM Forgot it was Sonia's birthday  High Tor. Out again - this time with Norton who had expressed an interest in midweek trad. I was up for trying Roadrunner but despite a good forecast was unsettled and drizzly when we got there. We ummed and ahhed about options and decided to stay but start on the Right Wing which has a few medium grade Sport Routes now from Gibson. Weather stayed unsettled so we stayed there. Not the best rock. Went on both trad and sport routes and did 6 of them. I had a go at Beautiful White a hard E3 and pinged off pulling a hold off above gear and went about 20 foot. Came down and pulled the ropes then led back up to the same point but a bit tired and couldnt commit to final pulls a s footholds looked friable. Reversed to gear then and rested on uit then manned up and led to top. Was good for my confidence to get a fall on gear. Got back in reasonable time to get a Gateau and Prosecco and mobilised the kids so we had a half decent birthday tea. Guzzled 1.5 bottles of fizz and crawled off to bed at 9.30pm

F. Afternoon Systems board. Strong on crimps but AnCap didnt go well so sacked it off. Eve Fingerboard session. Went well. Knocked another 1.25kg of one arm hang.

S. AM Moving heavy cupboards around and filing cabinets around. PM BBQ. Rain held off just. Great party. Got hammered and vaguely recall doing a single ill-advised deadlift Checked the weight just now and it was 145kg           

S.

Chuffed to bits with new route. Was hoping Conners would repeat it on Thursday but he got dragged off to do more eso-crap with Hydraulic Man and is away in France now so the second ascent is up for grabs...

Got a another new route in mind this week at High Tor. Going out tomorrow on reconnaissance (via Eatswood) and have nai booked in for Tuesday and Jonboy for Thursday - though we may go to Dovedale. Weightsteadily decreasing still. Feel I have got reasonable trad head back on now. No pressing work commitments. Life is good.

[lagerstarfish]

Life is good.

you also did a 95kg Lagerstarfish hug with great form - the training benefit from that will get you up The Oak for sure

[the_dom]

A week in which I climbed something hardish!

Mon: Lunchtime treadmill, PM bouldering and max hangs (+33kgs on small Metolius campus rung)
Tues: AM Crossfit, Lunchtime treadmill
Wed: Lunchtime treadmill, PM bouldering. Finger felt slightly tweaky, so no max hangs.
Thurs: Lunchtime treadmill, PM Crossfit
Fri: Lunchtime treadmill
Sat: Bouldering. Permit me a brief ramble. Last weekend I tried a 7C+/8A that I’d done years ago when I was young and strong. I couldn’t do the crux move, and the rest felt hard. I went back on saturday, in pretty decent conditions. After 30 mins or so, it was still feeling really difficult, and I still hadn’t done the hard move. I almost threw in the towel, but decided to try a few beta tweaks and got closer and closer to the move. Then I stuck it. Then I sat down under the problem,  pulled on and fell off on the other hard move after the crux move. Then I ripped a hole in my finger on my next go. Then I contemplated taking my shoes off and coming back next weekend. Then I pulled on. And did it. Boom. First 7C+ in years. Psyched.
Sun: Long surf in unseasonably warm weather (28 degrees in mid winter). 

[Muenchener]

There's life after marriage Dom

STG (July/August): get a couple of decent alpine rock routes done.
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: Shoulder/upper back physio/mobility stuff
T: Beastmaker maintenance max hangs
W: Wall, Thalkirchen: eight routes up to 6c+
T: Bike one hour. Shoulders.
F: Bike one hour.
S: Frankenjura family & friends outing, canoeing. My general assumption with this kind of "active rest" activity is that it's good to be as clueless as possible, because inefficient technique = more calorie burn.
S: Frankenjura family & friends outing: sneaked a quick couple of hours bouldering while the others went to the open air pool. There's one move on my current main project that I don't feel even vaguely able to do, but made some useful progress on a different problem: a nice body tensiony roof, which is an area in which I have a lot to learn so yyfy.
(Noticed that Cobras inspire even lass confidence than usual in my already sub-par heelhooks)

[AJM]

STG: climb Everyday Lives of Ordinary People. Find 7c+ project.

.....Totally shut down on The Wrist Business. Did Spy in the Sky instead which some seem to think is 7b+ but is actually pretty soft at 7b. Quite hot and felt quite ill for some reason.

T - Back at the Remnant in Cheddar. Got on Everyday Lives of Ordinary People, a 7c which is a fairly powerful 6C+/7A off the ground to good rest followed by roughly 7b to the top. Lot of people dislike the boulder, but that might just be a route climbers perspective. I thought it was excellent! Best redpoint attempt was last go of day ending with scuffing hand on wall rather than holding a large undercut jug after which I think I'd have had a reasonable chance of hanging on to the end. No tick, but much more enjoyable climbing than previous day, big psych boost. Current short term goal now focused on getting it done!

Spy in the sky - the flake before the jugs in the break, where you can now stand, crumbled several years back - when I did it it was with a heel behind the flake whereas the last time I did it before leaving Cheltenham, 2013 or so, there's now a decent edge you can just stand on on the edge of the flake.

Wrist business is desperate! 7B or so I've been told. The only 7c+ I did at cheddar was draggin along over on Ginsberg wall which I thought was pretty nice.

Good luck on Everyday Lives. My first 7c back in the day...

[nai]

T. AM Forgot it was Sonia's birthday 

Haha, my wife's is the same day, I remembered but she fared just the same, nothing says I care like Aldi Prosecco.

goals:
this week - dunno, feel pretty done for this block with goals achieved. Should do something, trad would be good, struggling for psyche, might just go fishing.

summer - maintain fitness, get stronger

Autumn - climb dry, nest free rock

M Tor - tried Green Alternative with an eye on Right to Roam. Two attempts, couldn't touch it.
On to Tin Of, did it first go but with clips in. Best call it a flash as I had just belayed it and did get some useful beta from below while on the route.
Tried bouldering without making a dent in anything, I have become weak, need to address that before Autumn.

T - nowt

W - had to cancel plans to wait in for a courier who failed to turn up on Tuesday 

T - Completed Celebration at Two Tier, still as good as it was last week.  Quickest 7c ever, 2 sessions vs previous 4+. Just the result I was hoping for when I started the training plan.

FSS nowt

[shark]

T. AM Forgot it was Sonia's birthday 

Haha, my wife's is the same day, I remembered but she fared just the same, nothing says I care like Aldi Prosecco.

At least I made it to Waitrose 

M Tor - tried Green Alternative with an eye on Right to Roam. Two attempts, couldn't touch it.

You can play the reach card with impunity for that one

[Duma]

Well done all, sounds like lots of good stuff this week. I've not hit any new highs, but still had probably my best week this year.

Goals:
Summer - lots of local sport, unfinished business with cider soak from 15 years ago, tick Neath Abbey, identify (and if possible do) candidates for:
8A (Hunters Roof?)and 8b by next June

68.5kg (weighed in at 67.5 on Fri after bike ride, lightest I think I can remember! Sadly undid most of it on Sat.)

Body Audit: shoulder ache no better, seems only to be a real issue driving, certainly don't notice it climbing. Should get a proffessional to look soon though I suppose.

(Including last Sun as was day 1 in Wales)
S: N Wales day 1 - arrived about 4, Lily Savage Boulders, great spot, great view. Didn't manage LS from the proper start, but great movement from a logical start a move in at about 7A. Was really here for POG, and it didn't dissapoint! [Paul O Grady 7A, POG sit 7B+]
M: N Wales day 2 - Quick dip in Llyn Ogwen to wake up. Initial forecast was poor, so had kind of assumed this would be a write off, but strong winds and mostly cloud cover meant this was probably the best connies of the trip. Sheep Pen with a mate from Bethesda. Fantastic day, fantastic place, fantastic problems. Finished Climbing at 2, pissed it down from about 3, felt like we'd really made the most of it. Few too many at mates in eve. [The Pinch 7A+ (as good as I'd hoped it would be), Klems Bulge (from matched low) 7A, Mack the Knife 6B+, Little Groover 6A+, Life in a Northern Town 6C+, Klems Arete 6B+, Toe Dragon 6C, Dog Shooter 6C, Kingdom of Rain 7A, Gnasher 7A. (Jerrys seemed really hard and I ran out of beans on the sit to KoR)]
T: N Wales day 3 - rain shower in the morning and the beers of the previous night meant a late start seemed a good idea - used the time to drive out to Porth Ysgo. Weather improved to the point it was stupidly hot down by the the sea, but really, on your first visit, who gives a fuck? - What a place! Had seen many pics and vids, but none really showed just how stunning it is - fucking amazing spot! Heat, skin, and generally running around like a loon cos it's all so good meant didn't really try any hard stuff, but loads of classics. Got in the sea after too. knackered and long drive round to Crafnant in eve ater. [Really Cool Toys 7A, RCT right hand 7A, Higginson Scar 6B, Incredible Shaking Man 6B (fuck me this is brilliant!), ISM sit 7A+, Beach Boys Arete SS 6C, Unmarked Grave 6B+ (quickly gave up on any aspirations to do Tide of Dreams in the heat!), The Ysgo Crack 5 (amazing and memorable on your own, and in a rain of silverfish), Fast Cars 6C+, Popcorn Party 7A (great, but skin was really complaining by then), Jawbreaker 6C+]
W: N Wales day 4 - Crafnant. All the locations on this trip where stunning, but this valley takes the prize! Just breathtaking. Cloud cover and decent breeze, so good nick, but skin and energy suffering by this point, still, have lusted after Wonderwall ever since I first saw a pic, and managed to block out the pain long enough to scrape up it. Cruella and Rileys were mega too, but beans were well and truely spent by then so didn't try Special K or Grasswind. Final dip in Llyn Crafnant on way out before the long drive back to Bristol. [Wonderwall 7B+, Cruella 7B, Rileys Arete SS 6C+]
T: TCA with daughter after school, bit of bimbling for me. New hard circuit up though, so despite it being 7th day on couldn't resist going back in the eve, had a great session suprisingly, new problems and tom, luke and ben being there for group psyche must have carried me though. Felt pretty strong and light, Even managed 1-4-6.5 on the mediums on both arms, can't remember when I last did that leading with left. Interesting chat re being better campusing leading with non dominant arm, do others find this too?
F: MTB, approx 1hr 20min, hot and sweaty. 5 narrow press ups, 10 narrow thumb out pull ups.
S: Nothing, Eat way too much at lunch and dinner, start to feel onset of sore throat.
S: Throat really sore overnight, but less so in the morning, had a mooch around Huntshams in the afternoon - almost entirely low grade bimbling, but couldn't resist quick play on Hunters Roof again, managed from after crux to top, and start to crux, but no impression on the move off the undercuts. Still, good to have not gone Backwards despite being a bit under the weather. 5 narrow press ups, 10 narrow thumb out pull ups.

Even better than last week! Amazing trip to N Wales, Great session indoors, fun bit of cardio on the bike, light, Hunters still feeling possible.
 

[monkoffunk]

STG: climb Everyday Lives of Ordinary People. Find 7c+ project.

.....Totally shut down on The Wrist Business. Did Spy in the Sky instead which some seem to think is 7b+ but is actually pretty soft at 7b. Quite hot and felt quite ill for some reason.

T - Back at the Remnant in Cheddar. Got on Everyday Lives of Ordinary People, a 7c which is a fairly powerful 6C+/7A off the ground to good rest followed by roughly 7b to the top. Lot of people dislike the boulder, but that might just be a route climbers perspective. I thought it was excellent! Best redpoint attempt was last go of day ending with scuffing hand on wall rather than holding a large undercut jug after which I think I'd have had a reasonable chance of hanging on to the end. No tick, but much more enjoyable climbing than previous day, big psych boost. Current short term goal now focused on getting it done!

Spy in the sky - the flake before the jugs in the break, where you can now stand, crumbled several years back - when I did it it was with a heel behind the flake whereas the last time I did it before leaving Cheltenham, 2013 or so, there's now a decent edge you can just stand on on the edge of the flake.

Wrist business is desperate! 7B or so I've been told. The only 7c+ I did at cheddar was draggin along over on Ginsberg wall which I thought was pretty nice.

Good luck on Everyday Lives. My first 7c back in the day...

Cheers!

I'm going to leave Wrist Business for a bit, maybe til next year even. Certainly not in warm conditions. Draggin Along I had the briefest go on maybe years back when it was far above my grade. Will be trying that in September when it's open again. Cool route!

[Coops_13]

STG: Get fit/strong again! And heal new finger/hand injury
MTG: Get solid on 7B/+ boulder and 7b/+ sport and find/do a project
LTG: 8A & 8a

M - Indoors, average session feeling weak.
T -
W - Indoors, felt poor so cut session short
T -
F -
S - Eridge Green, spent far too long falling off the last move of The Leaf 6B+. Azazel 7A turned out to be a lot harder than it looked, no tick Did a couple of highballs
S -

Not a great week, a fair amount of beer as well...

[fried]

Congratulations TT!

Another week of nothing but ankle rehab (walking from the fridge to the sofa). Nearly went and did a children's circuit but decided on caution. I should have 4 days in the forest next weekend, although we still don't know if the camping going to be open yet...

Going to have my first indoor session today. Lots of sit-starts I imagine.

[tommytwotone]

STG / LTG: Non-repeat Font 7anything


M: Lunchtime HIIT class in (due to electric works) dimly lit, non-air-con-ed studio at gym. Quite surreal.


T: The stars aligned and I managed a post work session on rock. Searching for breeze close to N. Leeds so of course defaulted to Almscliff. Conditions remarkably decent - coolish with consistent light wind keeping the midges off.


Decided to give C+A Traverse a spin for the hell of it and found it, well, miles off. Got from start to throw after a few goes, then never got that move though. Wandered around a bit then bumped into 36chambers and co so ended up tagging along with those guys. Managed a sum total of sod all though.


W: Nowt.


T: Shit day at work, then rushed home to get Una to bed as Fiona was out in the evening. Woke in night feeling bloated and queasy, then terrible sleep.


F: Went into work, then realised it was a terrible idea so came home and spent whole day in bed.


S: Another day of feeling terrible, missed mate's wedding reception as a result.


S: Finally better, shot off to Sheffield with Una for the BBCs which we both enjoyed - nice day out.


Having recovered from one bug managed to pick something else up. Wondering if I had a bit of latent immune system low-ness I aggravated by trying to go back to normal too quickly.

[36chambers]

congrats TT!

STG: training/sorting out body
MTG: Zoo York
LTG: 8B

M: core ball W5
T: Almscliff. Very pleasant evening schezwan repeating stuff. Had the pleasure of climbing with tommytwotone for most of it
W: full body workout. Then got carried away doing chest... Then got carried away flexing... I forget how inflated pecs get after a good workout...
T: Almscliff. Evening schezwan. A tad warmer than tuesday. Worked the beta for Top Cat Traverse 7B+, then managed the link first go. Surprisingly good problem, with a unique crux, can't believe I've overlooked it till now.
F:
S: Wales too wet for anything other than walking
S: Wales. Slate quarries for a spot of pleasant trad.

[duncan]

Shark, well done on the new line, sounds like a worthy addition. I contemplated offering my services but it’s been a busy week and I was conserving remaining energy as I had a mission at the weekend. 

Biggest congratulations to Ms TT and Evan.

STG: Maintain good shoulder rehab. habits. Try an E4... E5? Lose 2 kgs.
MTG: various LH&F - Excalibur, Wendenstock; Rabada-Navarro, Naranjo de Bulnes; Sea-cliff E5 by the end of Summer.
LTG: Font 7a. Sport 7b+. Something long, hard and free (and ideally in condition in August).

M - Shoulder strength/stability exercises. Pull-ups.
T - Westway fridge bouldering: to V4 (the vertical blacks).
W - Shoulder strength/stability exercises. Pull-ups.
T - Shoulder strength/stability exercises. Very brief fingerboard (barely a warm-up)
F -
S - 5am start, drove to Cornwall. Pentire with Fiend and Cheque   Crag deserted of course, though Urco’s Revenge was chalked. Anyone know who did this? It was misty, and a bit greasy, but got on Eroica. I’d climbed this in 1979 with Corniceman on our first trip to the South West, using the peg as you did. Got it free this time YYFY! Then followed Fiend up Black Magic, another route with considerable history for me, an fine lead in non-ideal conditions.
S - Backaways Cove   This looks like a box zawn but is an old quarry so steeper than the usual sea-cliff choss and without the looseness consolidated like, err, Carn Gowla. Free abseiled down the very impressive Strangest Secret, this would be a nails E4 if safe and solid but it’s on lightly talc’ed shale slopers with no discernable gear. We had an E3 and E4 in our sights and I had wondered if I might try the former “Back to the old ways”. One look at the crag convinced me to not fight for the lead. To cut a long story short, Matt learned how to jumar.

Objectively, 12 hours solo driving to lead one pitch is not a great return for the weekend but I had a brilliant time, thanks chaps. I love the north Cornwall coast. Some of the exploits were captured for the forthcoming chequepictures sea-cliff extravaganza. Cheque needs willing victims / fame hungry wannabees for the Devon section due to his leading man forgetting his clip-stick. Anyone up for something at Berry Head?

Plan: High intensity childcare this week. Keep bouldering. Don’t get injured. Try to get away on Sunday.

[shark]

Thanks Duncan and I'm up for Berry Head though bird banned till end of month

[Footwork]

STG: (Sept) Metal Guru, Smouldering Globules of Lust, 7th Aardvark, Personal Services
LTG: (end of year) Shoulder rehab and climb loads of trad

Mon: Norfolk eating cake
Tues: Moughton Nab for a couple hours on 6's
Weds: Lakes, went walking
Thurs: Canoe on Derwent Water but mostly eating more cake
Fri: Depot 4x4's on V3/4. 20mins shoulder work.
Sat: Wales walking in the wet. Pete's Eats hot choc with all the trimmings.
Sun: Slate was dry so bit of trad before heading home.

A lot of cake and booze this week.

[nik at work]

S/MTG - read
LTG - have fun in Spain

M - nothing
T - training traverse.
7b x 2
8a-b x 4
Work out some moves for a harder variation.
Fail to do full link twice.
W - nothing
T - nothing
F - training traverse.
7b
8a
Do hardest variation for first time (8b?)
Then do new harder hardest variation (harder 8b?)
Good rest then do 8a twice in a row with only rest been walking back to the start.
An excellent session.
S - BM session. One arm hangs, one-armers and front levers. Short session but reasonable. Also did some mono stuff, was noticable how mono performance has reduced without ongoing focus but General grip performance was still 'good'. Mental as much as physical perhaps, certainly neuromuscular rather than muscular.
S - very short session at training traverse, less than 20 mins.
7b
8a x 2
Slightly harder 8a x 2
Nice little session, very fast not much rest.

The main read crag is no longer bird banner but short Windows of climbing opportunity coupled with birds still nesting on the top of the current lines of choice means the ropes have not yet been broken out. However on Sunday the hills has finally cleared from the route a so if this week is dry I should be able to get on a route or two, good times

[nai]

I'm free weekend of August 13-15th and could be up for some seacliff adventures.

[filz]

M - Lunch: push ups, bridges, squats, hand stands, l-sits, theraband execises. Eve: board climbing and system.
T - yoga class
W - board climbing. Too hot.
T - yoga. Light home session
F - nothing
S - Dolomites. Some warm up problems (6a+/6b+) then tried a 7b+ where I figured the sequence but did not link the moves. Then a 6c+ at the end of the day which felt harder than the 7b+
S - more Dolomites . Warm up on some 5-6a+ problems. Then climbed a 7a after which it started raining so we packed and went back home.

Good week! Went back into yoga after a while... It's a good alternative when it's hot to try hard stuff on the board. More importantly I climbed a 7a YYFY. It was a while since I had done a new problem in the 7s

[Nibile]

Mon - weights circuit: muscle snatch x5, ab-wheel x20" pause, snatch pulls x5, pull ups x5. Repeated six times with no rests. Brutal.
Tue - rest.
Wed - BM max, finally after two months since last session. Not too bad despite 26 degrees. Usual session: incut rung, back3 one arm 2x3; one arm +16/20 kg x2; two arms small pockets front2 and mid2, index monos, middle monos all +20 kg, one arm middle monos, all x3. Tired.
Thu - rest.
Fri - bouldering in gym. Brilliant setting. Forearms still killed from Wednesday.
Sat - rest. Forearms still very sore.
Sun - light dumbbell complex 25x4. A pool of sweat.

[csl]

Lots of good stuff this week! Well done Shark on new route! Duma, great ticklist for 3 days?!

S - Eridge Green, spent far too long falling off the last move of The Leaf 6B+. Azazel 7A turned out to be a lot harder than it looked, no tick Did a couple of highballs

Worth a visit? I thought that wall looked quite cool?

[Coops_13]

Lots of good stuff this week! Well done Shark on new route! Duma, great ticklist for 3 days?!

S - Eridge Green, spent far too long falling off the last move of The Leaf 6B+. Azazel 7A turned out to be a lot harder than it looked, no tick Did a couple of highballs

Worth a visit? I thought that wall looked quite cool?

Yeah I think if the weather is bad up North (like it was) then maybe a day or two. The Leaf was actually really good. Nightfall looked good, but wet when I was there.

[csl]

Thanks, give me a shout if you fancy a partner next time. I'll probably try and go next time we have a few dry days.

[petejh]

STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), by mid July
MTG:
LTG: 8c, by June 2018


M.
T.
W. Kettlebell workout
T. Flew to NI.
F. Hen Mountain. Slabtastic runout fun.
S. Started developing mega venue x. YYFY, like having a significant chunk of Cheedale or A55 crags all to myself. First route's a brill tecky slightly overhanging face climb, around 7c.
S. Damp day in Belfast.


Quite week mecca-wise, far too busy at week pre-audit. Same this week. But well psyched to be back in new route mode.

[Luke Owens]

M: Core

T: Rest

W: Dinbren - Back on the proj, great conditions, overcast and breezey for a change! Put clips in and warmed up doing top section 3 times, felt smooth and sloper felt sticky for a change.

Had a redders, made it to previous highpoint and manged to make the hard 3rd clip off the sloper, new it was on. did the next few tricky moves to the half rest below the bulge, all of a sudden I got hot aches and the adrenaline hit me, took some time to calm down. Suprised at my recovery on the bad rest position, did the next few ticky moves through the bulge to another rest which is mainly on the feet, feet felt pumped...! Had visions of glory while resting and decided I wasn't going to drop the top no matter what although I know people who have, set off from the rest pretty pumped still but the top moves felt easy, massive rush clipping the chains after 16 sessons on it over 3 years, first 7c, psyched!

Here's a vid, rests are edited out because I spent far to long in them:



T: Rock rings, 20mm incut deadhangs -
R1: 10s
R2: 10s (+2.5kg)
R3: 10s (+5kg)
R4: 10s (+7.5kg)
R5: 9s (+10kg)
R6: 9s (+10kg)

F: Repeaters - open hand on 30mm pockets - 4 x (5s on 5s off x 6) 2 mins between sets.

S: Rest

S: Rest

[shurt]

Well done everyone, you're a hotbed of psyche.

STG: get outside for more climbing - Berry Head start of August if weather good.
LTG: 8a, V8, E5 again

here's two weeks worth.

Week before last
Managed to get back on with training and felt well off the pace, think I did three short sessions.

Last week
Managed two sessions in the week and could only manage smaller sets so didn't feel optimistic about climbing at the weekend.
Sunday: arranged to meet Bruce at Bovey Woods (I know, crazy in the summer) and we headed for Slotted Wall. Amazingly after a short warm up and working out the moves (heelhook was key) I managed to get it done. It equals top whack for me (it might be a bit soft for V7) so was pleased. Went to look at Calcanium Crisis afterwards and couldn't even get off the ground, there's the reality check. Skin was then shot. Tried the Woodsman, shut down on that too. Spent the rest of my time trying to find loads of other problems and failing. 

To all you with Berry Head motivation, I am planning to climb at Berry Head with a friend from Devon on one day out of Monday to Thursday on the first week of August, I'll be picking the best weather day. If anyone is up for it let me know. Early starts are important as it gets the sun all morning and falling in in the afternoon / evening can result in semi hypothermia (from personal experience!)

[webbo]

Mon. Rode to work and back 20 miles each way.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. 30 warm up problems, then repeaters 5 sec on 5 off X 5 5 sets with 28.25 lbs added.
Thu. Rode to work and back. 20 miles each way.
Fri. Bike 71.29 miles 4 hrs 11 mins.
Sat. Same as Wednesday.
Sun. Same as Saturday but increased added weight to 31 lbs.
 

[Wood FT]

Well done Luke