[Will Hunt]

We've just had the bathroom redone and unfortunately the shower screen (one that sits on the lip of the bath and swings back and forth) is leaking. I suspect it wasn't installed properly but it's also a crap screen - water also escapes through gaps that are inherent in the design of the screen. We need to get another one and wondered if anyone had recommended brands that are reliable. Also, if it means getting a watertight screen I'd be willing to put up with the hassle of a fixed-position screen, though you would need to get into the bath to turn the taps on to run a bath - is it worth it?

[nic mullin]

Don’t know if it’s what you want, but I got one of these for our bathroom: https://www.screwfix.com/p/aqualux-semi-frameless-polished-silver-splash-guard-190-200mm-x-1400mm/7064t

It’s not a full screen, it just covers the gap between the wall and the shower curtain at the shower end. It’s fixed, but only 140mm so you can easily reach past it to get at the bath taps. It was easy to install (even though our walls are pretty wonky) and doesn’t leak, but it’s only any use with a shower curtain.

[Paul B]

Even though they’re the screws and plugs that came with the brackets it’s still worth thinking whether they’re fit for purpose.

This. We're talking less than an original UKB FA to remove any concern whatsoever.

Screws and plugs that come with furniture are usually terrible quality too. Save yourself/future self some unnecessary pain and use something better!

PSA: don't buy shit tools.

[JamieG]

Agree with all the above. Go beefy, you won’t regret it. I also tend to clean out the dust from the hole and put some adhesive in (No more nails type stuff) before sticking in the plug. Extra insurance.

[James Malloch]

Went down to the local building merchant today and got some beefier kit based.

Everything is up now and looks good. Hopefully it all holds. Thanks for all the advice 🙂

[Paul B]

We've just had the bathroom redone and unfortunately the shower screen (one that sits on the lip of the bath and swings back and forth) is leaking.

Are there any that aren't shit? We had one in our flat in Sheffield and tried changing the slide-on seal but that was still terrible. I think I ended up botching a sealant dam (taking measures so it didn't bond to the screen's seal) which still allowed the screen to be swung outwards (useful for getting in and out of the shower ...with a broken leg for instance).

[dunnyg]

Just leave it, sell the house, let some one else sort it. Or get the people who did it back to fix it.

[spidermonkey09]

We've just had the bathroom redone and unfortunately the shower screen (one that sits on the lip of the bath and swings back and forth) is leaking. I suspect it wasn't installed properly but it's also a crap screen - water also escapes through gaps that are inherent in the design of the screen. We need to get another one and wondered if anyone had recommended brands that are reliable. Also, if it means getting a watertight screen I'd be willing to put up with the hassle of a fixed-position screen, though you would need to get into the bath to turn the taps on to run a bath - is it worth it?

We have the one at the bottom of p. 138 in this brochure. Seems fine so far, been in a few months.
https://www.bathroomstolove.uk/brochure/#page/138-139

My dad is always going on about how a slimline fixed screen is a better bet than a bigger swinging one, his argument being that water gets on the floor no matter what screen you have so it's better to just accept it and use a bigger bathmat. I was unconvinced and went for a swinging one this time.

[Will Hunt]

Just leave it, sell the house, let some one else sort it. Or get the people who did it back to fix it.

Going to do the latter. I suspect they fucked it up a bit but it's definitely also just a leaky screen. The plastic seal that runs along the bottom of the glass doesn't actually meet the vertical mount that you attach to the wall. Water that gets into the mount escapes from seams on the other side. It's a shitshow.

Also going to do the former but need to shower between now and then!

[James Malloch]

We want to install an extra socket in a room. Best option seems to be go back to back with the one on the opposite side of the wall as it’s in the right place and the electrics would all be there - so minimal mess.

We got a quote to put in two sockets right next to each other which came out at £320. So maybe £50 of materials and the rest labour.

Does anyone know if this seems reasonable? I thought about doing it myself but i can imagine there being unexpected faff and having to bodge things. So getting it done properly is more appealing…

[Bradders]

Not so much a DIY question, as there's no way I'll be doing it myself but....

Moved into our house 3 years ago. The electrics have always seemed a bit dodgy; lots of instances of the fuse box tripping, seemingly being overloaded if lots of appliances on. Certain appliances (e.g. a kettle) didn't work at all without tripping the fuse box! Ended up returning it.

Anyway, the other day it went again, and the master fuse simply would not come back on while the switch for the plug sockets was on. Unplugged everything, nothing doing. Ended up getting an emergency electrician out as we'd lost the boiler and fridge.

The diagnosis seems to be that there is a short somewhere in the circuit, but because it's all under solid floors and due to it not being set up in a proper circuit (as in, it's not on a continuous loop instead there are different branches off it at random) the diagnosis is that a full rewiring of the sockets is required.

The good news is it only affects about half or two thirds of the sockets; the ones in the hallway, landing and loft conversion all still work.

Firstly does that sound right? Any red flags I should be thinking about?

And secondly what should I expect to pay roughly? Given it's not the entire house that needs doing?

[tk421a]

We want to install an extra socket in a room. Best option seems to be go back to back with the one on the opposite side of the wall as it’s in the right place and the electrics would all be there - so minimal mess.

We got a quote to put in two sockets right next to each other which came out at £320. So maybe £50 of materials and the rest labour.

Does anyone know if this seems reasonable? I thought about doing it myself but i can imagine there being unexpected faff and having to bodge things. So getting it done properly is more appealing…

That seems way over what I'd be expecting. Electricians rates anywhere from £250 per day upwards. Can't see a double socket taking a day. I'd have thought £100 max if it's straightforward. For reference, as part of full house renovation / extension our sparky charged £58 per twin socket installed.

Technically I believe adding a socket to an existing circuit is something you're allowed to diy and not need Part P certification.... But do check.

[Will Hunt]

If you've been given a silly quote it might be that the job is too small to be worthwhile. Get a second quote from a smaller outfit. You can make it a more attractive proposition if you've got other stuff that needs sorting to turn it into a half/full day's job.

[Paul B]

Firstly does that sound right?...

It sounds reasonable?

In the previous house I came to change the cooker (who builds a kitchen around a 50cm hob!?) and was really happy because on the consumer unit I found something labelled 'cooker' with a beefy rating. I was less pleased when I turned it off to find that it'd been used for the ring main in the extended bit of the house. Likewise, this one has an extension that was a spur from the kitchen, which was then spurred again etc. and had a washer, dryer and electric heater on it. I found this out by turning on the coffee machine and watching the plaster crack behind because of the load on the ring main and the heat this was generating.

It's a minor thing but I'll be replacing the kitchen sockets with faceplates containing USB ports when I get round to tiling behind the kitchen worktops.

I can't remember the cost of fixing the issue but I've used a local electrical contractor quite a bit since moving in to replace external lighting, finish running electric to a garage, installing a new ring main in said garage and external sockets in the garden so I seem to be getting a good price as he prices the job and only comes when he's got an appropriate gap (this can take a few months).

[SA Chris]

If you've been given a silly quote it might be that the job is too small to be worthwhile. Get a second quote from a smaller outfit. You can make it a more attractive proposition if you've got other stuff that needs sorting to turn it into a half/full day's job.

This. They will often charge a full day for any job regardless of size, as it is unlikely they will find another to fill the rest of the day. Worth looking around for more quotes.

[James Malloch]

If you've been given a silly quote it might be that the job is too small to be worthwhile. Get a second quote from a smaller outfit. You can make it a more attractive proposition if you've got other stuff that needs sorting to turn it into a half/full day's job.

This. They will often charge a full day for any job regardless of size, as it is unlikely they will find another to fill the rest of the day. Worth looking around for more quotes.

Thanks!

To be honest, I think that I might just do it myself. As TK421a said, it’s fine to do as a DIY job and I’m confident I can do it (have worked with mains electric before for this kind of thing). It’s mainly the prep and time it takes, and also I’m not quite sure what I’d attach the back box to - but if I take the opposite docket off then I can probably just mirror what’s been done for that.

[spidermonkey09]

Would imagine theres numerous handymen out there who would happily do it for you for a reasonable price if you don't need it signed off.

[James Malloch]

A few more DIY questions for the ever growing jobs list…

1) I need to re-seal our bath.

I’ve got it nice and clean down to plastic and tile, but there are a few bigger gaps that I’m not sure how to deal with.

In the below photo the vertical gap is about 10mm, and it goes about 20mm back from the tiles. This is the worst one.

I’m assuming this will need some kind of filler adding before using silicone sealant. Any tips on how to approach it?




2) Our outhouse roof needs re-doing.

We’re getting some water ingress where our washing machine is which is causing the plaster to come away. Had a roofer out yesterday and he recommended stripping it, replacing the smaller horizontal pieces of wood (main joists are fine), felting and re-tiling. But the quote was £2,000 which we don’t really want to be spending right now - we’ve baby coming soon so it’s been an expensive few months!

How hard is it to re-lay a roof? It’s 2m x 3m so nothing massive. I can get local re-claimed slates and would  be happy to give it a go, but not if it’s going to be a massive pain in the arse!

I imagine it is a case of taking the top bits off. Stripping tiles from top down, replacing broken ones, put new wood and felt on and then nail the tiles back on in the same order….





3) some of our back yard need re-pointing.

I did brick laying in school (got an A at GCSE  ) but haven’t done anything like that for 15 years or so!

Exiting stuff looks like this. Some bits are cracked - other sections are completely missing it.

Any ideas on the work involved in re-doing it? I guess removing anything which is dodgy. Clean out any mud/weeds. Wait for a dry weekend and get cracking?

[James Malloch]

Would imagine theres numerous handymen out there who would happily do it for you for a reasonable price if you don't need it signed off.

That’s true. I’ll drop a few a message and see if anyone can fit it in 

[SA Chris]

Problem with gaps around a bath is unless the bath is rock solid it can move considerably between full and empty. 1m3 of water = 1 ton. I have had a frustrating time with a bath moving between empty and full because supports were not set up right and the sealant splitting due to movement. you can make some pencil marks and check between empty and full. If it's OK, you should be able to use expanding foam in the big gaps, cut it back where needed and go over with sealant.

[Paul B]

What Chris said and I also think I read that you should half fill the bath when you do it?

[SA Chris]

Bath I was trying to do moved a full inch or so at one side between full and empty. It had a proper botch job putting the supports in, had to get panel off and sort them out before resealing, after 3 or 4 tries to fix it.

[James Malloch]

Problem with gaps around a bath is unless the bath is rock solid it can move considerably between full and empty. 1m3 of water = 1 ton. I have had a frustrating time with a bath moving between empty and full because supports were not set up right and the sealant splitting due to movement. you can make some pencil marks and check between empty and full. If it's OK, you should be able to use expanding foam in the big gaps, cut it back where needed and go over with sealant.

Just measured at 4 points when full (to overflow) and empty. Might be about 0.5mm of movement but hard to tell. Basically nothing anyway 

I’ll aim to do the expanding foam option this weekend unless there’s any better ways to do it. That was my first thought as it looks like ether might be some there already from when it was originally done. Almost regretting doing it - it was such a pain to remove all the old stuff it’s taken so much longer than I expected.

It was probably fine - but I expect the sides will get a lot wetter once there’s a child splashing around in there…

[Paul B]

Did you use silicone remover? Score it, apply and leave then scrape it off (repeat a few times).

https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-sealant-remover-100ml/88987?tc=OB4&gclid=CjwKCAjwyNSoBhA9EiwA5aYlbzmssh6vCGM7vuGGxEd-UmTNN0tjDInl38euXslF3plm7kHmW8OIYxoCynkQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

[James Malloch]

Did you use silicone remover? Score it, apply and leave then scrape it off (repeat a few times).

https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-sealant-remover-100ml/88987?tc=OB4&gclid=CjwKCAjwyNSoBhA9EiwA5aYlbzmssh6vCGM7vuGGxEd-UmTNN0tjDInl38euXslF3plm7kHmW8OIYxoCynkQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Would have been sensible! I used a kitchen knife before moving to a Stanley Blade…