yeah so two joints, I remember now, that was the criteria for the hold to use.
The Lattice guys gave me that straight then 90 degree hang at the start of my program on slot 9, using assistance to keep the body square and target the correct shoulder muscles. It might come as a surprise when you try to hang square having always done it in line.I'm guessing that's what Simon's doing.
Didn't work for me, after 7 months I was going backwards. Very fine line between too little assistance and too much. Probably depends how much assistance you need?For now I'm going to continue with the big slot hangs for shoulder stability. But will be switching from hold 14 one armers to 1st joint, 2 arms with added weight. Won't be bothering with multiple combinations though, 4f 1/2 crimp or F3 drag is all I'll do until I can manage unassisted one arm on 14.
The main workout, with the addition of wrist curls, is exactly what Ollie gave me in the second phase of my plan. Six sessions of using 2 arm for the last set of hangs then switch to one arm. I think it does depend on how much weight you need to take off, <10% probably fine but >=20% is too much.
There could well be other factors rather than just the hangs but I'm certainly not as strong and am lacking snap. But on the flip side my endurance, which was why I went to them, is much improved. This year I've climbed harder, completed more routes and have done them all in quicker time.
Best wishes for a good recovery to fellow power clubbed TobyQuote from: Toby on facebookThanks again everyone! FYI I slipped clipping a first bolt at Malham and broke skull and wrist. Use your clipstick everyone. Had an emergency head operation and due for a wrist op soon. All the thoughts are much appreciated Tx
Thanks again everyone! FYI I slipped clipping a first bolt at Malham and broke skull and wrist. Use your clipstick everyone. Had an emergency head operation and due for a wrist op soon. All the thoughts are much appreciated Tx
Quote from: shark on July 03, 2016, 11:31:29 pmBest wishes for a good recovery to fellow power clubbed TobyQuote from: Toby on facebookThanks again everyone! FYI I slipped clipping a first bolt at Malham and broke skull and wrist. Use your clipstick everyone. Had an emergency head operation and due for a wrist op soon. All the thoughts are much appreciated TxThanks for the messages of support everyone, I'd never have thought that I'd be this seriously injured after falling from not much more than a standard boulder height. I owe my life to the air ambulance, they are amazing. take care out there everyone!