[nai]

yeah so two joints, I remember now, that was the criteria for the hold to use.

[shark]

yeah so two joints, I remember now, that was the criteria for the hold to use.

Tom and Ollie are of the opinion that one arm hangs are the way to go to develop usable strength. Seemed  a good excuse tho change my fingerboard routine as I was getting stale/plateaued on the previous one. I'm confident of doing unassisted 1 armers on #14 before the year is out or my money back - at least that is what I inferred

[nai]

Didn't work for me, after 7 months I was going backwards. Very fine line between too little assistance and too much. Probably depends how much assistance you need?

For now I'm going to continue with the big slot hangs for shoulder stability.  But will be switching from hold 14 one armers to 1st joint, 2 arms with added weight.

Won't be bothering with multiple combinations though, 4f 1/2 crimp or F3 drag is all I'll do until I can manage unassisted one arm on 14.

[rodma]

The Lattice guys gave me that straight then 90 degree hang at the start of my program on slot 9, using assistance to keep the body square and target the correct shoulder muscles.  It might come as a surprise when you try to hang square having always done it in line.

I'm guessing that's what Simon's doing.

One armer hanging square is my next lifetime goal, as in I'll never manage it in this life :D

[nai]

same here, I can hang bodyweight on right arm but to stay square I have weight added to my harness and a counterweight on a pulley. Trying to hang free I just rotate out of it and end up in-line.

[shark]

Didn't work for me, after 7 months I was going backwards. Very fine line between too little assistance and too much. Probably depends how much assistance you need?

For now I'm going to continue with the big slot hangs for shoulder stability.  But will be switching from hold 14 one armers to 1st joint, 2 arms with added weight.

Won't be bothering with multiple combinations though, 4f 1/2 crimp or F3 drag is all I'll do until I can manage unassisted one arm on 14.

Sorry to hear you went backward. Hope it doesnt go the same way for me. For reference I'll jot down my whole session below. Whole session can take 2 hours + as I have a few minutes rest  between goes.

For warm-up to get fully recruited (my devising):
3 x 10 sec hang sloper
20mm edge 3 x 10 secs drag 3 x 10 secs half crimp 3 x 10 secs full crimp
18mm edge 1x10sec drag 1 x10 sec half crimp 1 x 10 sec full crimp
16mm edge 1x10sec drag 1 x10 sec half crimp 1 x 10 sec full crimp

Main hangs (Ollies devising)
Large slot +6.25kg assistence RH and +8.75kg assistence LH 3 x 10 secs hangs on each arm
Large slot +6.25kg RH and +8.75kg LH 3 x 10 secs hangs with a 90 degree lock on each arm
16mm edge +15kg added weight 3 x 10 secs (attempt)

Aim is after a few session is to replace the last set by doing it 1 armed on the 16mm edge instead with assistance

[nai]

The main workout, with the addition of wrist curls, is exactly what Ollie gave me in the second phase of my plan.  Six sessions of using 2 arm for the last set of hangs then switch to one arm.  I think it does depend on how much weight you need to take off, <10% probably fine but >=20% is too much.

There could well be other factors rather than just the hangs but I'm certainly not as strong and am lacking snap. 

But on the flip side my endurance, which was why I went to them, is much improved. This year I've climbed harder, completed more routes and have done them all in quicker time.

Think I need to take a Lattice/Anderson hybrid approach taking what has worked for me from each of the plans and try to combine them.

[shark]

The main workout, with the addition of wrist curls, is exactly what Ollie gave me in the second phase of my plan.  Six sessions of using 2 arm for the last set of hangs then switch to one arm.  I think it does depend on how much weight you need to take off, <10% probably fine but >=20% is too much.

Yes - forgot to mention wrist curls because I didn't have time to include them in the last session.

There could well be other factors rather than just the hangs but I'm certainly not as strong and am lacking snap. 

But on the flip side my endurance, which was why I went to them, is much improved. This year I've climbed harder, completed more routes and have done them all in quicker time.

My impression is that a downside of endurance training is that it can reduce absolute strength/power because the body responds by making it so you cant fully open the power tap as it were. Hopefully that latent potential can still be tapped.       

[TobyD]

Best wishes for a good recovery to fellow power clubbed Toby

Thanks again everyone! FYI I slipped clipping a first bolt at Malham and broke skull and wrist. Use your clipstick everyone. Had an emergency head operation and due for a wrist op soon. All the thoughts are much appreciated Tx

Thanks for the messages of support everyone, I'd never have thought that I'd be this seriously injured after falling from not much more than a standard boulder height. I owe my life to the air ambulance, they are amazing. take care out there everyone!

[the_dom]

Best wishes for a good recovery to fellow power clubbed Toby

Thanks again everyone! FYI I slipped clipping a first bolt at Malham and broke skull and wrist. Use your clipstick everyone. Had an emergency head operation and due for a wrist op soon. All the thoughts are much appreciated Tx

Thanks for the messages of support everyone, I'd never have thought that I'd be this seriously injured after falling from not much more than a standard boulder height. I owe my life to the air ambulance, they are amazing. take care out there everyone!

Jesus, that's gnarly. Heal up quick!