Isn't this largely dependent on how much of a rest you allow yourself on the slabby plinth? Does starting squatted on the plinth really add a grade onto OOMT?I can see the logic of saying if the long version is 8a+ (i.e. the OOMT but adding a grade onto an 8a) then the shorter version should be 8a. BUT, assuming I could actually get my fingers into the OOMT slot these days then I'd wager any money than powerband into OOMT is an easier proposition than Staminaband or even Staminahumps, so 7c+ might sound more in keeping with local grades? Everything would be 8a in the cave.
Ha! A rare glimpse into the beating heart of the tor sandbagging monster.
Luke said Too Hard for Mark Leach wouldn't even be a boulder problem in Wales.
might sound more in keeping with local grades?
That'd be bizarre wouldn't it, a crag with grades that are consistent with similar problems of a similar style and similar rocktype locally? Fucking bonkers.
Quote from: dave on June 23, 2016, 10:57:35 pmThat'd be bizarre wouldn't it, a crag with grades that are consistent with similar problems of a similar style and similar rocktype locally? Fucking bonkers.But how to distinguish Font boulder grades from French Sport grades?
PUTPBand (7C to jug/pocket on PUTP
Quote from: T_B on June 23, 2016, 01:39:01 pmPUTPBand (7C to jug/pocket on PUTP I'm all for sorting some grades out, but can't be 7c to there?