[petejh]

STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), by mid June July
MTG: undecided
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Effort on OG Nai!


PE phase.

M. Iced back. Mobilisations. Chiro in P.M to look at tweaked back from Mecca on Sunday. Said it was torn back muscles rather than facet joint sprain. recommended 2 weeks to heal and not getting on Mecca next weekend..
T. Iced back. Mobilisations. PE sesh 3, foot-on at Boardroom. Back coped alright. Fitness improving, 3 out of 4 reps completed, rest time reduced.
W. Iced back. Core and mobility sesh.
T. PE sesh 4, foot-on at Mill. Felt really good, reps completed, rest time reduced. Didn't notice back muscles.
F. Massage to loosen up back/help healing.
S.
S. Tor. Mecca. Bottom half gopping wet but top half dry. Warmed up for an hour. Nervous about how back muscles would hold up. Worked groove moves into the kneebar and out of the groove to the finish. Forgot foot beta for last move to flake (twist in RF on groove). Back felt good, yes!


Well happy with how back muscles bounced back to be able to work Mecca 7 days after tweaking. Probably a good week to miss anyway considering wet weather. Now two weeks behind my ideal sched and that'll prob slip further, aiming for 14 sesh's in total on Mecca (2 down) before turning attention to other things, feeling like I'll be coming back in the autumn but we'll see.

[nai]

aiming for 14 sesh's in total on Mecca (2 down)

3, shirley?

[Doylo]

He's doing a Caff 

[a dense loner]

14 sessions 8 redpoint's a day. That's 112 goes on it. Don't worry godskins could only dream of doing the move on il pirata once in a 100 goes.

[nik at work]

Stg - sport/training ticks
Mtg - trad after bird ban, end of the month
Ltg - something in margalef this autumn, currently undecided...

M - nothing
T - traverse wall. Warm up then did dougs 8a then did it four more times each time tweaking moves to make it slightly harder, finishing up at probably tough 8a+?
W - nothing
T - nothing
F - quick traverse wall session in super heat:
2x7b
1x8a
1x8a+
failed to do a new harder variation (low 8b??)
1x8a.
S - Another hot day at the traverse wall:
2x7b
1x8a+
2x8b
2x8a+
1x8a
S - At in-laws. Had a play doing one armers on father in laws newly purchased chin up bar. It flexed alarmingly with my meagre weight, lord knows what it does when he's hanging on it!
Anyway managed 2.5 one armers in a row with poor form on both arms. Surprised by this.

Good mileage this week, roll on the end of the bird ban...

[petejh]

aiming for 14 sesh's in total on Mecca (2 down)

3, shirley?

That first sesh with you in shite connies doesn't count  That was just a recce to help me form a clear idea of what PE to train.

Won't be at redpoint stage for a while yet Dense so you'll have to revise downwards. And unless they're falling off at the 2nd bolt every time no-one in my end of the gene pool gets 8 quality redpoints per sesh, whatever Stu thinks 

[a dense loner]

I don't get 8 goes on a boulder problem in a session!

[webbo]

Mon. Turbo 1 hour.
Tue. Nothing dragged to the pub by the missus, drank rather a lot.
Wed. Nothing. 
Thu. Board good session best since my injury. Repeated 10 problems from last November. They all went first or 2nd go, took 3 sessions to do then year.
Fri. Biked to,work 20.12 miles 1 hr 8 mins. Bike home 20.14 miles 1 hr14 mins.
Sat. Board another reasonable session repeated a few more things from last Nov. Did one in better style than before.
Sun. Bike 75.39 miles 4 hrs 15 mins.

[shark]

Thu. Board good session best since my injury. Repeated 10 problems from last November. They all went first or 2nd go,

 

[Doylo]

I don't get 8 goes on a boulder problem in a session!

Not even one move problems

[webbo]

Thu. Board good session best since my injury. Repeated 10 problems from last November. They all went first or 2nd go,

 

I suspect it was a random good day, where as other folk have the odd random bad day.

[Luke Owens]

M: Travelling back from family holiday

T: Core

W: Core

T: Orme - First time climbing in 2 weeks and first time on a rope in a long time. Tried "Body Torque" (7b+). Worked it out but crux is just to sharp and not very enjoyable. Only had one go then went in the cave. Tried "Parisellas Original" (7A) almost got a heel hook stuck in a jug.

F: Dead Hangs on 20mm incut (bottom slot on Rock Rings)

4 x 10 secs (Unweighted)
1 x 10 secs (+5kg weight)
1 x 10 secs (+10kg weight)

S: Racing other Dad's at a party on a bouncy castle obsticle thing. Won 4 times, tiring!

S: Raven Tor - absolutely nails, shut down on everything. Seem to of found a weakness of flat and sloping crimps/pinches. If a hold isn't incut I stuggle to do much off it. Did the Chimes Start boulder problem. Then tried Too Hard for ML, Wild in Me start and Saline Drip. All felt the living end.

Felt physically beat up afterwards...


I'm stuggling to focus on anything at the moment and not sure what to concentrate on. It's Diamond season in a months time so it's probably best I actually do some routes and gain some fitness, something which I never seem to have!

[Doylo]

Did you rate the Tor Luke?

[tomtom]

Did you rate the Tor Luke?

:D

[Luke Owens]

Did you rate the Tor Luke?

Haha, so far I think it's rubbish but I'll reserve judgement until I go do routes there, which will probably never happen. I'd sooner stay in Wales...

I lost all hope when a local said to me "It's just a bit crap really."

[Doylo]

Did you rate the Tor Luke?

I'd sooner stay in Wales...

Best way

[dave]

I lost all hope when a local said to me "It's just a bit crap really."

I want their name.

Sounds like you made an odd choice of problems to me, avoiding all the classics. Wild In Me start is reachy and although it's a good route the start as currently described makes for a relatively poor problem. Saline Drip is good but again quite reachy and atypical of the crag. THFML - well you just gotta man up a bit there.

[erm, sam]

What other sub 7b problems would you recommend Dave?

[Wood FT]

Did you rate the Tor Luke?

Haha, so far I think it's rubbish but I'll reserve judgement until I go do routes there, which will probably never happen. I'd sooner stay in Wales...

I lost all hope when a local said to me "It's just a bit crap really."

I've always pointed newcomers to boot boys start as, although not typical of the crag, it's fun big moves on very reasonable holds - a good safety tick.

give it another go sometime, sure they'll be at least 12 more lifts down with PeteH

[Nibile]

I lost all hope when a local said to me "Sour grapes".

FTFY.

[dave]

What other sub 7b problems would you recommend Dave?

Admittedly you're talking the kind of entry level for decent Tor bouldering there, but you've got:

Keen Roof finish
Ben's Roof harder finish
THFML footless
Bashers
Bashers RH
Little Extra start
Boot Boys start
Rattle&Hump (easiest way/s)
Super High Intensity Bodybuilding start

Weedkiller trav and OOMY are 7b-ish and are worth trying. Similarly powerband as far as the jug is probably 7b and good moves. Plus there's tons of good pinches wall stuff.

[Luke Owens]

It's probably more fun if your not a complete punter like myself.

I wanted to try Bashers as that actually looks decent but it was soaked.

Can see the Tor's appeal if you're local but I find Welsh lime more inspiring.

I want their name.

I didn't get their name...

[dave]

I didn't get their name...

Any distinguishing features - shades and a white stick, golden retriever in a high-vis jacket, anything like that?

[Luke Owens]

I didn't get their name...

Any distinguishing features - shades and a white stick, golden retriever in a high-vis jacket, anything like that?

He was some beast from London. The thought of a 3 hour drive from London to climb there would make me want to quit climbing...

[tomtom]

I didn't get their name...

Any distinguishing features - shades and a white stick, golden retriever in a high-vis jacket, anything like that?

They were the odd one out from the crowds wearing blinkers and rose tinted glasses