S. Tor. Mecca second sesh. Good connies, much crisper. Warmed up and clips in. 2nd go up, felt great - light as a feather and powerful. Did the moves from starting block to the pocket by undercut. Third go up, felt back muscles stiffen as soon as I tried moves from starting block to pocket. Clipsticked up in pain and stripped. Fuck. Hoping no worse than similar to last spring (facet join sprain) and a few days is enough. Well gutted as was feeling strong and pleased to be doing the moves, felt like I had in me a link from block to undercuts.Chiro booked for tonight.
Was that you bouldering on pinches wall next to me belaying/wincing every time I moved suddenly?
ashtond6, bad luck with the finger.Seriously though, gentle rehab working up to using small holds again sounds like its in order, 2 weeks and then gnarly peak lime at the top end of your grade range isn't taking it easy. If your finger is hurting when in controlled conditions (less than bodyweight on a fingerboard for example) you shouldn't be expecting to crimp on peak lime. More of what you did on Thursday and less of what you did Sunday is probably in order.
Quote from: Stabbsy on June 13, 2016, 12:17:09 pmI have. I had a similar experience of putting a pad under it on a couple of occasions and making next to no progress, then did it a couple of years ago. I thought it was tough for the grade (got V5 in the old YGB Rockfax). No idea what grade it is, but I remember it coming together really quickly when I put some effort in. I'd have to be stood in front of it to provide any useful beta though - sorry!Does this help?Started from sit with RH where the LF is. I was failing trying to move from the above position to get my left hand on the seam directly above the RH. It was sweltering so it could have easily been that.
I have. I had a similar experience of putting a pad under it on a couple of occasions and making next to no progress, then did it a couple of years ago. I thought it was tough for the grade (got V5 in the old YGB Rockfax). No idea what grade it is, but I remember it coming together really quickly when I put some effort in. I'd have to be stood in front of it to provide any useful beta though - sorry!
I think I started LH where LF is and RH further right on same break. Left heel on and roll into LH pinch, then pop with RH to get into similar position as photo. Can't remember if I went again with RH and got top with LH or did what you were trying. I can remember that the RH hold had minimal texture, so was really conditions dependant. I also remember a small RF hold that was useful on the lip of the roof, but don't know whether I used it to bump left heel along the break or for something else. I'll maybe go back and try it one evening, so if you see someone sat underneath getting pissed off by repeated failure, it's probably me.There's a more direct version as well (grade harder maybe?), which I think goes up the poor flake, but never managed that one.
I always thought the 7A version finished at Streaky's, it's pretty much over once you get the lip of Matt's Roof anyway isn't it? I also struggled with this one, got a spanking and haven't been back on it since!
Thanks mate, and good week for you! Congrats