[ashtond6]

Considering I've been resting due to a finger injury I've had a good week

M rest
T cemetery boulder, just all the problems since I'm trying just open handed jugs
W rest
T stanage pop fun session. Soloed some VS's and did flying buttress direct, most fun I've had in ages
F rest
S rained, did some 6B at bell hagg then onto the cemetery boulder. Did the traverse which I'm told is 7A. Felt nails before I did it, feels easy now
S went to embankment, did the 6b and 6c. Then appear to have re-injured my finger just as it was almost better. On beef it 7b

[fried]

Cheers Ashton

M - Rest
T - Finished at Lunchtime, rushed to Franchard Sablons with storm clouds forming, failed to do Prise de tete https://bleau.info/sablons/3167.html, then failed to do Dalle à Clement https://bleau.info/sablons/3164.html. I think I posted exactly the same thing last year at some point. Prise de tete is still incomprehensible, and I only get about 5 goes at dalle à Clement before the crimps start being too painful. Shortish session. Stupid humid, 10° hotter than yesterday.

W- Had my annual medical visit, high-blood pressure. Been coming for a few years.
Th- Quack confirmed I'm on medicine for life, I feel old.
F -  1 set BM hard, very sweaty.
Sa - Bought some beetroot.
Su - Up earlyish, wanted to run a circuit and burn of some negative energy. Damp, and starting to rain, so went indoors at Lisses, after check out the campsite at Grez-sur-loing, hoping to pick up some new shoes, had a good fun session, felt much better.

[the_dom]

Spent most of the week on honeymoon in Prague - what a cool city (and was lucky enough to be both 10 mins from a good bouldering gym and to have a wife who was more than happy enough for me to duck off for a boulder once in a while). That said, I also spent the week eating horribly and drinking far too much, as one does and put on 3.5 kgs..

Monday: Bouldering at BoulderBar Prague - fun day, managed to burn a strong local off a Stephan Stranik 7C 
Tuesday: 40 min run around Prague
Wednesday: More bouldering at BoulderBar Prague.
Thursday: Tired AM session at BoulderBar Prague - ran out of juice early so hit up the Transgression boad and did some max hangs. First time I've used it - definitely not skin friendly but I can see the value, even if I couldn't hang the 6mm rungs at my current heaviness.
Friday: 45 min run around Prague. Travel home.
Saturday: Arrive home. 40 min Cape Town run.
Sunday: Fun day out bouldering - 7A first go repeat, 7A+ second go (falling after the crux on the flash because I dorked the sequence), 7B second go repeat, 7B+/C repeat (5 years after I first did it). Good day out.

All in all, a good week. Married life is kinda fun.

[nai]

appear to have re-injured my finger just as it was almost better. On beef it 7b

Please tell me it's not a finger on your right hand?

[ashtond6]

appear to have re-injured my finger just as it was almost better. On beef it 7b

Please tell me it's not a finger on your right hand?

Haha yes it is, why?
Bit disappointed as I took it relatively easy

[Muenchener]

STG (June/July): get a couple of decent alpine rock routes done.
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

UKB Totenkirchl Expedition 2016: rain stopped play. Postponed

M: Bike one hour. Shoulders/core 30 minutes
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. Plan was to work on hard boulders, but there was a new 5C-6B circuit, so being weak-willed I set to work on those instead and flashed a dozen.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Plan was routes but was too late coming from work, so bouldered for and hour then feet-on campusing. Two blocks of 3 x 45 on, 45 off medium rungs.
T: Half an hour shoulders/mobility
F: ditto
S: Raining in the Kaisergebirge, so did the next best thing by going sport climbing at a crag that has a route named after the guy who did the first free ascent of the Dülfer on the Totenkirchl. Great looking route, but sadly just another addition to the project list. (Is this a bad omen?)
S: Rainy day hillwalking for alpine training. 1200 metres height gain in two hours exactly; good. Idyllic walk down through the woods in the evening, watching the clouds clearing over the Wetterstein.

[TobyD]

appear to have re-injured my finger just as it was almost better. On beef it 7b

Please tell me it's not a finger on your right hand?

Haha yes it is, why?
Bit disappointed as I took it relatively easy

If you have a finger injury what were you doing at the embankment? a (ligamentous) finger injury will not take a couple of weeks to heal. Think 2-3 months of grit hand cracks, or easy mountain routes or similar. No bouldering, no peak limestone! Other wise you may as wll hit it with a hammer.

[Duma]

Goals:
Summer - lots of local sport, unfinished business with cider soak from 15 years ago, tick Neath Abbey, identify (and if possible do) candidates for:
8A and 8b by next June

70kg. (Got back down to 69 today but av this week has def been closer to 70. Taken a bit more hunger pangs than I'd like.)

Body Audit: clear (touch wood)

M: Shipwreck with Cailean, back on Vennerne (7c+/8a). Warm up putting clips in, felt harder than I remembered. 2nd go felt much better, but several small mistakes on the lower wall meant pretty spent by the time got to the crux. 3rd got to the lip, but no attempt at slap to flatty that you clip from. 4th go slapped at the flatty but didn't hold. 5th go as 3rd. 6th go only went up because of Stu's bullying on the Megoswad thread - was total rubbish, right on the limit on the lower wall, was about to blow it when broke hold anyway (doesn't affect difficulty). Improved sequence to the point I'm pretty happy with it. Great fun day climbing by the sea, had hoped it would go today, but the style means this is going to be a hard route for me, so good though! Little worried I didn't manage the link from before the crux to the top, even though I'm only one tricky move away. Gratifyingly Cailean didn't manage it as a warm down despite looking strong on Helvetia. Knackered after, stamina routes are hard!
T: Cheddar with Cha1n in eve, Wave. Flashed Raw Deal (7a), then over to try A Day Called Zero (8a), really chuffed to get it 1st redpoint after a go up to get clips in and work out the moves - suits me considerably more than Vennerne! Not sure it's worth 8a, but its brilliant fun! Just scraped up 7 Months Later (7c) 2nd go after a particularly feeble flash go, could really feel Monday in my arms by then...
W: Knackered.
T: TCA eve, was still pretty tired and stupidly hot in there, so just went round the new Black circuit (6A-6C). 4 falls which isn't too bad.
F: Run on downs. 6 miles 52 mins. Hot and slow. Spent 90 mins at the wall before nights but didn't do anything you could call training.
S: nights
S: hr at TCA, very little done, felt weak on the 2 remaining blues, no further progress on wooden circuit. nights.

[nai]

appear to have re-injured my finger just as it was almost better. On beef it 7b

Please tell me it's not a finger on your right hand?

Haha yes it is, why?
Bit disappointed as I took it relatively easy

You too kit easy on Beef It, a stereotypical one move wonder with a mega hard pull on a tiny right-hand crimp?   

[ashtond6]

appear to have re-injured my finger just as it was almost better. On beef it 7b

Please tell me it's not a finger on your right hand?

Haha yes it is, why?
Bit disappointed as I took it relatively easy

You too kit easy on Beef It, a stereotypical one move wonder with a mega hard pull on a tiny right-hand crimp?   

Didn't realise that when I set off! I was told it was easier than hungry eyes so didn't seem like an awful idea at the time... but in hindsight

[ashtond6]

appear to have re-injured my finger just as it was almost better. On beef it 7b

Please tell me it's not a finger on your right hand?

Haha yes it is, why?
Bit disappointed as I took it relatively easy

If you have a finger injury what were you doing at the embankment? a (ligamentous) finger injury will not take a couple of weeks to heal. Think 2-3 months of grit hand cracks, or easy mountain routes or similar. No bouldering, no peak limestone! Other wise you may as wll hit it with a hammer.

Not got much experience with fingers, I was under the impression I would need a week off then 2 weeks of strengthening (as it didn't go pop)

Really really hope it isn't 2-3 months 

[nai]

Didn't realise that when I set off! I was told it was easier than hungry eyes so didn't seem like an awful idea at the time... but in hindsight

Hope it wasn't one of your mates who told you that knowing about your finger.....

[csl]

ashtond6, bad luck with the finger.

Seriously though, gentle rehab working up to using small holds again sounds like its in order, 2 weeks and then gnarly peak lime at the top end of your grade range isn't taking it easy. If your finger is hurting when in controlled conditions (less than bodyweight on a fingerboard for example) you shouldn't be expecting to crimp on peak lime. More of what you did on Thursday and less of what you did Sunday is probably in order.

STG - the next 6 weeks

Go to Ceuse fit and strong, climb Privilege du Serpent - done
Lose a bit of weight - done
7c outside - done

MTG - next 3 months

Get some routes i've tried ticked off - Tennessee, VoTB, New Dawn, Dominatrix
or
Try some new ones and do them... - Gunfighter, Directoonima

LTG - end of year

8a

Mon

Ceuse

Ananda with a rest to warm up.
2 redpoints on Privilege. Fell from a new highpoint first go, mainly out of surprise. 2nd go fell a bit lower.

Repeated Silmarils and Harley Davidson, tried to re-do Lapinerie, but a bit tired. Finishing jug full of mud which was a bit exciting!

Tue

Rest

Wed

Privilege wet so just got my draws out and re did the dry section.
Tried to onsight Beauf Story 6c, but jugs full off water at the top saw me off at the chains.
Then did Au Sud de Nulle Pas 7b, 2nd go.

Thu

Trou Line 6b+ repeat
La Galere 7a, flash
Blocage Violent 7b++, 1 bolt to bolt then a RP falling off at halfway. Felt hard!

Fri + Sat

Rest

Sun

La Femme Piege 6b
Ananda 7a, repeat
Privilege du Serpent, first go of the day. Felt like a total path, but these things always do when they go dont they!
Tried Les Collonettes start boulder for a bit, couldn't do it!
Bolt to bolt to get draws in Blocage, went for a redpoint and fell going to 5th bolt, rested and linked from 4th bolt to the chains. Felt much easier today.

Good week, got the main goal of the trip done. First 7c+, a bit more in the tank as well. Not been getting as much done as i'd hoped but hopefully get a few more ticks this week if weather holds out.

[conners]

First post on UKB Power Club..

STG (this year) -
  Prow in one pitch
  Another 8a (power plant, call of nature, raindogs)
  Rattle hump start & Simple Simon here in Churnet.
  8a circuit on my board
  (Basically climb 8a and Font 7b)
MTG (next year) -
  8a+
  Font 7c
LTG (within 5 years) -
  8b
  Font 8a

Mon - Fairhead. 2nd Si up E3, Lead E4

Tue - Fairhead. Rain stops play

Wed - Fairhead. 2nd Si up E2, Lead E4

Thur - Fairhead. Lead E4, 2nd Si up E3, Lead E2

Fri - Travel / rest day

Sat - 6k trail run

Pull up drills
1 X static one armer (left & right) X 4 sets
5 X assisted one armer (left & right) small cord for assistance at mid chest height. x 3 sets
12 X weighted pull ups (20kg) X 3 sets. (Failed on pull up 12 last set...)
15 X pull ups, 20 close in press ups and a 7a circuit with no rest in-between. X 3 sets.

Sun - Sore lats ! Gardening, 3k trail run with daughter

Finger joint almost healed, A2 still got a niggle (3 months after initial damage)
Weight not far off, even after a week on the black stuff... Fear must be a great burner of calories.
 

[nai]

Goals:
June/July - Powerplant, Peak WIPS.
Autumn - Raindogs, LHS Tor.

M - INSET so nowt

T -
AM  - Craig Y Biceps - A second attempt at Laughing at the Rain nigh on a year after the first. Struggled with start moves again but it came together a bit after a few tries and coupled with some hindsight beta analysis just about worth another quick look.

PM - FB, pretty good, a couple of PBs

Eve - core

w - rest

Th - Tor - hot & humid.  Decided to try Obscene Gesture again. Still can't move once in the gesture so sacked it off after a couple of attempts (although more hindsight beta analysis has me wondering...). 
Quick go on Chimes trying the move left under the roof. Onlookers might be amazed that my efforts - pulling on making a single move then flopping back onto the bolt - represented a tiny bit of progress. Those slopes are for cooler climes though.

F -
AM - garage board.
warmup into a few hard boulder attempts
1/2 AeroPow circuits workout.
Weighted pullups - new PB

PM - LI AeroCap

S  Foundry with nipper, plan had been to perform AnCap sets in between belaying but with it being busy, us being rushed and her being super keen, it didn't work that well.  Did the 6x3 sets but too low intensity.  Did it again using system crimps on the 40 back at home. Felt much more like it.

S - Foundry belaying kids for 3 hours - nowt but forgotten belay glasses left me with a cricked neck and sore shoulder.

Not the greatest week, slept poorly all week and overdone things in the horrible energy sapping conditions, left feeling fairly second hand.

[36chambers]

STG: training
MTG: Yorkshire classics
LTG: 8B

M:
T: Circuit board. Reacquainting myself with the concept of being pumped. I hate being pumped. On the plus side if outdoor 8a's are anything like the circuit board ones then my sport climbing campaign should hopefully be a short one.
W: Now finally a BM2K owner, courtesy of tommytwotone . Training psyche is back. Played around on it but my tweaky finger was a bit agitated, so will unfortunately have to ease into this.
T: Almscliff. Spotted chalk on The Descent Route 7A on the egg boulder. Knew about this problem but hadn't a clue where it went. Either said problem is a massive sandbag or I was mistaken, because it felt desperate. Anyone on here done it? Failed on the proj again.
F:
S: circuit board. Aeropow, 3 sets of 4 on the 6c. It turns out it doesn't matter which circuit I'm on, if I'm on the wall for more than a minute I'm pumped regardless.
S: Roads closed for triathlon, so forced to go to a different wall. Just bumbling around, still not a fan of this place.

Slightly annoyed about my finger, will stick to foot on fingerboarding and easy circuits for now.

[SA Chris]

STG - Get fit for cycling and surfing on holiday
MTG - get thumb recovered and get climbing again
LTG - crush

M - gardening
T - changed over wheels on car. Knackering
W - Worked
T - Worked
F - out on bike. 19km
S - Nothing much. Took son out to practice riding bike
S - Took son out to practice riding bike. Got it down now, needs to work on stopping. Out on bike - 25km. Some core in evening.

Bit pissed off about thumb TBH. Physio seems to be making little impression. 6 weeks now.

[mark20]

Th - Tor - hot & humid.  Decided to try Obscene Gesture again. Still can't move once in the gesture so sacked it off after a couple of attempts (although more hindsight beta analysis has me wondering...). 

I could barely hold the position, then I found a little notch for the thumb to tuck under, turning the hold into more of a pinchy gaston, then it felt surprisingly OK. Of course that's probably of no use it you are doing it the thumb way!

[monkoffunk]

STG: climb as many 7A/+ and 7b-7c as possible. Find 7c+ project.
MTG: 1. French 7c+, before 1/1/17. 2. Get into shape for Spain. 3. Tick unfinished business list (5/13). 4. Font 7B before 1/1/17.
LTG: 1. Cider Soak and Academic, before 1/1/18. 2. Font 7B+, before 1/1/18.

M - Board session. Hotter than the sun/tired from weekend. Sacked the board early and did boulders instead, didn't feel linking enough to get any benefit on board. Wasn't a great session, next time I'm going to make sure I work harder even if it's hot. And try and sleep more.
T - Work. Latish night.
W - Cheddar. Few goes on Directoonima with cloud cover, but actually still shouldn't have been there until evening. Was  too hot for cloud to be enough. High point however of crimp on head wall and falling on next move twice and once falling going for crimp. Two moves and would be over, but definitely redpoint crux.
T - Rest day on balance. Would have had to be finger board and just thought I'd injure myself.
F - Obligatory rest day.
S - Field Day in London. No training!
S - Same as Saturday.

Alright but not brilliant start to week with four rest days at end. Definitely not all required! Will do better this coming week, plan now to start at least something targeted toward sport climbing trip to Spain end of the year.

[shurt]

Nice one Conor.

[nai]

Th - Tor - hot & humid.  Decided to try Obscene Gesture again. Still can't move once in the gesture so sacked it off after a couple of attempts (although more hindsight beta analysis has me wondering...). 

I could barely hold the position, then I found a little notch for the thumb to tuck under, turning the hold into more of a pinchy gaston, then it felt surprisingly OK. Of course that's probably of no use it you are doing it the thumb way!

Yes been trying it the thumb way. Was wondering about giving the finger a go but maybe I should just try something else instead, maybe give Obscene Toilet another go see if it's got any less reachy since last time.

[shark]

11.0-11.1

MTG eatswood Reverse 7C, Rattle & Hump 7B, Jericho Road 7B and Anger Management 8a+ at Raven Tor, Onsight Reproduction E6 High Tor. Get arse down to Pembroke. Try some new lines

M. 5.30am start Car. Plane. Car. Arrived at Fairhead late afternoon and went to Bingagapple sector. Beautiful weather. Led Blade Runner E3 5c in one pitch and followed Nick up the superb Track of the Cat E4 6a. I suggested we save ourselves for tomorrow. Watched Jordan run it out on the Dark Side 

T. Rain  Checked out Giants Causeway

W. Left it till midday to give the crags a chance to dry. The headlannd was still shrouded in clag. Went to top of Rathlin Wall. Quizzed belayers and routes sounded horrible. Decided to walk and go check out Bingagapple. Lucked out when we got there as mist was less thick and rock was dry. Had crag to ourselves. I led the Brasser E2 which was a sturdy and strenuous test of jamming technique. Then went down to do Jolly Roger E3 6a,5c. We did it in two pitches with one rope doubled as I'd forgotten to bring the second rope down  . I got the second pitch which was the best as it turned out. Nick then manned up and got on Rusty Halo hard E4 and led it really well. I disgraced myself by falling off the top crux bulge failing to get enough traction on the half jams. Then thrashed around on TR on something too hard. Finished coiling ropes at about 9.30pm still in the mist.

T. Felt tired. Headed out early PM to Rathlin with a view to trying the Mask but the first pitch looked green. Went on Face Value soft E4, 6a,6a instead. That was hard enough. I got the E3 second pitch Nick then also led Equinox E25b which was like the Mall on steroids. I enjoyed it - Nick didnt.

F. Claggy again. We were both tired so decided to give climbing a miss and meandered back to Belfast. Failed to get an earlier flight. Got back to Sheffield 1.30am

S. Intended to train in the afternoon but Seb showed up and ended up having three large glasses of G&T -with slimline tonic of course 
S. PM Assisted one arm fingerboard hangs as recommended by Ollie Torr. Not done any fingerboarding for 4 months 

Let down by weather forecasts for Fairhead. Definitely noticed lack of trad fitness at Fairhead. Great place. More physical than I was expecting. First time tradding for ages and wanted to get back into it steadily. Felt nervy and apprehensive most of the time - but overall no major trauma. Low carb approach is working well though pining for my muesli     
       

[Stabbsy]

T: Almscliff. Spotted chalk on The Descent Route 7A on the egg boulder. Knew about this problem but hadn't a clue where it went. Either said problem is a massive sandbag or I was mistaken, because it felt desperate. Anyone on here done it?

I have. I had a similar experience of putting a pad under it on a couple of occasions and making next to no progress, then did it a couple of years ago. I thought it was tough for the grade (got V5 in the old YGB Rockfax). No idea what grade it is, but I remember it coming together really quickly when I put some effort in. I'd have to be stood in front of it to provide any useful beta though - sorry!

[petejh]

STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), by mid June
MTG: undecided
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Fairhead's where it's at it seems!

PE phase.

M. Flew back from NI.
T. PE sesh 1, foot-on. Boardroom. Brutal - so unfit, unsurprisingly. Couldn't complete a single rep at the target time!
W. Core and mobility sesh.
T. Tor. First time on Mecca, just a recce to help guide PE training. Awful conditions really, 21 degrees and v.sweaty. Still great to finally get on proj, felt nails in the connies but managed the undercut traverse once or twice. Flew to NI in afternoon, epic roads, almost missed flight.
F. NI.
S. Flew back. PE sesh 2. Mill, foot-on. Miles better than 1st sesh and managed to rinse all reps at the target time. Short PE fitness comes quick as usual!
S. Tor. Mecca second sesh. Good connies, much crisper. Warmed up and clips in. 2nd go up, felt great - light as a feather and powerful. Did the moves from starting block to the pocket by undercut. Third go up, felt back muscles stiffen as soon as I tried moves from starting block to pocket. Clipsticked up in pain and stripped. Fuck. Hoping no worse than similar to last spring (facet join sprain) and a few days is enough. Well gutted as was feeling strong and pleased to be doing the moves, felt like I had in me a link from block to end of undercuts.

Chiro booked for tonight.

[36chambers]

I have. I had a similar experience of putting a pad under it on a couple of occasions and making next to no progress, then did it a couple of years ago. I thought it was tough for the grade (got V5 in the old YGB Rockfax). No idea what grade it is, but I remember it coming together really quickly when I put some effort in. I'd have to be stood in front of it to provide any useful beta though - sorry!

Does this help?



Started from sit with RH where the LF is. I was failing trying to move from the above position to get my left hand on the seam directly above the RH. It was sweltering so it could have easily been that.

[shark]

S. Tor. Mecca second sesh. Good connies, much crisper. Warmed up and clips in. 2nd go up, felt great - light as a feather and powerful. Did the moves from starting block to the pocket by undercut. Third go up, felt back muscles stiffen as soon as I tried moves from starting block to pocket. Clipsticked up in pain and stripped. Fuck. Hoping no worse than similar to last spring (facet join sprain) and a few days is enough. Well gutted as was feeling strong and pleased to be doing the moves, felt like I had in me a link from block to undercuts.

Chiro booked for tonight.

Amazed it was good conditions. Seemed minging in Sheffield. Good luck with sorting your back

[dave]

TBH is wasn't amazing nick lower down, although the occasional bit of breeze helped. I think routes were benefitting from being up in the air a bit. Bouldering right of Little Extra was all gopping, back of bens roof gopping, some breaks on other stuff damp etc.

[petejh]

Was that you bouldering on pinches wall next to me belaying/wincing every time I moved suddenly?

[Nibile]

Mon - PE: 2'15, 2'25", 2'. In between 30" goes. Best session so far. Dumbbell complex x2, various weighted carries. Strong.
Tue - rest. Managed to fuck up back again.
Wed - combo pull ups/lateral raises 10x6.
Thu - combo pull ups/press/bicep curls 10x10.
Fri - played basket. Sucked.
Sat - PE: 3'10" WOW! 2'30". Dumbbell complex, snatch pulls, dumbbell complex. Great progress on the system, promising! 23 degrees and 70% humidity, not promising.
Sun - cleans 5x10; muscle snatches 5x10; snatch pulls 10,10,5. Maybe my traps will hurt tomorrow.

Lower back seems to be doing good. Must take care of it. Good overall form, good progress on the PE. Must try the high and medium intensity session.

[filz]

STG: Loose Kgs added recently. More AnCap and AeroCap training
MTG: tick some routes (by end of summer)

Bad week for me. Lately I've been slightly bugged by a contracture at my left arm and this week it got much worse.

M: Assisted one-harm pullups (hence the worsening of the contracture). fb max hangs
T: Tried to warm up for a board session, but left arm was not ok, couldn't pull hard, so I did some hangs on small holds.
W: rest
T: 4x15 incline push ups and 1x1' hand stand to test the arm. Not feeling bad, but...
F: fb repeaters. Then some massage to my arm after which I could barely put it above my head 
S-S: NSAIDs and rest

Today I'm much better but I'll take a few more days of rest.

[Nibile]

PE personal best! Chuffed!

[tomtom]

Good weeks Dom and Sharkio... and hello new poster (sorry - forgotten your username it was on the last page...)

M: BM - felt good. I ENJOYED IT. WFT - fingerboard training - enjoyable. Beat myself with birch twigs until I bled. Staunched wounds and repeat.

T: Minor injuries in the morning to get my wound (not from the birch twigs) dressed. Work - blah..

W: More BM. Enjoyable again. MUST. NOT. GET. ADDICTED. TO. FINGERBOARDING.

Th: Went to the Depot. It was horrible. Sweaty, claggy. But the first time I'd been climbing in 2-3 weeks - since my stitches ripped.. Tentative movement on my back but it held up OK. Managed to spin my session out to an hour, but it was pretty gruesome.. still I can still climb - did a couple of V5's and felt OK on some of the purples (but couldnt be arsed..)

Fr: Rest.

Sa: Minor injuries in the morning. They told me I was nearly healed - no need to return just gave me some dressings for my back to self apply. That arvo MrsTT had 10 friends round.. I cleared off to go to the wall.. went to Depot - and I knew the youth bouldering thing was on, but figured the circuits area (that is open to the outside when they open some big doors) would be OK. Pulled up - it was rammed. Drove on (didnt even bother getting out). Went to a friends and drank beer, ate pizza, drank wine and watched football.

Su: No hangover. Sticky wet day, no chance of going outside and didnt fancy plastic. Faffed around at home. Got on the BM. NO motivation. I. HATE. FINGERBOARDING. Kind of did random sets whilst watching the football, and much to my surprise managed a full set of 3 x 6 on the small 10mm edges.. which I've never done before. Its probably a #punter level exercise but made me feel vaguely good about myself.

So, my back is nearly functional again.. fingers are still strong enough.. time to get back on it. The sad thing is I now have pathetic soft skin again - layers peeling off at the wall even... A short lived comeback starts here or maybe mid week...

Su:

[duncan]

STG - re-establish good shoulder rehab. habits. Try an E5.
MTG (September): various LH&F -Excalibur, Wendenstock; Rabada-Navarro, Naranjo de Bulnes; Scosea-cliff E5.
LTG: Font 7a. Sport 7b+. Something long, hard and free (and ideally in condition in August).

Missed 3 weeks due to shoulder tweak. Cancelled two trips to Font, the second more due to the weather.

S - First day at Ceuse with csl and Sean Brexit. Did two slabby 5s at FFME. Shoulder sore, lots of ice.
M - Easy stuff at Demilune. More ice.
T - Rest (birth)day. Took delivery of Parois de Legend from M. Petit himself. He'd like to do a new version, since the Saharan destinations are sadly unrecommendable for the foreseeable future. He's keen to see it in English, how about it Vertebrate?
W - Un pont sur l'infini and Demi lune. Routes to 6a+
T - Berlin. Routes including Super Mario (6b+), really enjoyed sticking to the shallow pockets in the cool evening temps. Shoulder much better.
F - Rest day
S - Warmed up at the Grand Face. Flashed Silmarils which is brilliant and felt steady for a Ceuse 6c.
S - Early start to belay csl on his project, dispatched in inspiring fashion. Warmed up at Thorgal, struggled on a new 5b but the 6b went a bit more easily.  Drank tea and waited til Berlin went into the shade and got on Zagreb. Arms felt heavy but tried hard and got the onsight. Great end to an excellent week.

Good to be back in harness after a slightly dispiriting four weeks off. Great trip. Not sure why I've not been to Ceuse for 10 years. Last trip coincided with start of a fallow spell, certainly won't leave it that long in future. It's so me.

Plan: continue rehab. finger and shoulder. Build capacity for long days this summer. Get on some Ceusesque trad. whilst I'm fit and feeling confident.

[Duma]

Nice work on privilege csl!

[shark]

Was that you bouldering on pinches wall next to me belaying/wincing every time I moved suddenly?

Did he ask to see your passport?

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing
Tue. Board lapping a couple of problems with different foot holds.
Wed. Bike interval.
Thu. Nothing birthday meal and wine.
Fri.  Board tired 2 sets of warm up problems the repeaters 6 secs on 4 off 4 sets with 25 lbs added. Turbo 1 hour. Pick grandson up from nursery and then push him round on his bike for an hour.
Sat. Nothing family stuff.
Sun. Bike 71.56 miles 3 hrs 59 mins.

[dave]

Was that you bouldering on pinches wall next to me belaying/wincing every time I moved suddenly?

Quite possibly. Can't say I noticed any wincing, but generally I tend to automatically just block out folk doing routes between sardine and pinches wall anyway, like when Neo walks through the Matrix.

[petejh]

Quite right, focus on the crucial numbers.


Minor torn muscle fibers in lower back, no sprain of the facet joint (minor yyfy). Maybe/hopefully back to mecca next weekend but miss out the steepest start moves until more fully healed. If anyone's' looking for a good chiro in the Chester area I recommend John at Chiropractic Clinic Chester, seemed very clued up on sporting/climbing specific demands.

[ashtond6]

ashtond6, bad luck with the finger.

Seriously though, gentle rehab working up to using small holds again sounds like its in order, 2 weeks and then gnarly peak lime at the top end of your grade range isn't taking it easy. If your finger is hurting when in controlled conditions (less than bodyweight on a fingerboard for example) you shouldn't be expecting to crimp on peak lime. More of what you did on Thursday and less of what you did Sunday is probably in order.

Thanks mate, and good week for you! Congrats
Think I've learnt my lesson, I don't think it's really bad but will be if I keep blowing it! (2nd time in 15 days)

[tk421a]

STG: Mountain routes in Scotland! :O
MTG: 7C/8a
LTG: 8A/8b + some long, hard, free routes

M: -
Tu: - (went to see the new Harry Potter play, part 1)
W: Vauxwall, tried the new compset, did the V7 in a few goes (soft!) failed at some V5s... (sandbag!)
Th: HP part 2
F: Flew to Scotland
S: Old Man of Stoer, great route, got a dunking up to my waist from the tyrolean not being tensioned enough... Hopped on an E4 6a crack - got shut down completely, I need to do more routes... Mixture of not committing to moves over gear and not finding cracks indoors.
Su: Up at 2.30am to start an attempt of the Cuillin Ridge. Some wet rock and my idiotic choice of Salomon trainers (terrible on wet rock, not great on dry rock) meant we bailed after the In Pinn. Still one of the best days out I've had in the mountains.

Up doing more mountain routes this week, Castle Ridge / Ledge route planned for tomorrow.

Conners: Welcome!
Ashton: Get Dave Mac's Injuries book, it's fantastic, helps to diagnose what's going on with fingers. It's not just pulleys that can go wrong, and different injuries have different treatments.

[TobyD]

M Foundry board, great fun session
T 45 minute or so run in the peak
W Kilnsey, did Exit to Eden first redpoint a great route and nice to get on something new. Flashed the new 7a+ left of Comedy, not a great route but some fun ape-ing about
T 2tier upper - tried vision of loveliness, slightly too warm on the lower wall but almost managed floor to the rest, the crux seems really hard though and the route seems to be worth 8a easily to me unless i'm really missing something
F 30 minute road run
S Kilnsey with GvG, three redpoints on 50 for 5 - ashes link; awful humid conditions but a really enjoyable day out at the crag
S Kilnsey again, slightly better conditions, two working goes on soft option, all but one of the moves done. Then 2 redpoints on 50for5 ashes but absolutely boxed by then.

[Stabbsy]

I have. I had a similar experience of putting a pad under it on a couple of occasions and making next to no progress, then did it a couple of years ago. I thought it was tough for the grade (got V5 in the old YGB Rockfax). No idea what grade it is, but I remember it coming together really quickly when I put some effort in. I'd have to be stood in front of it to provide any useful beta though - sorry!

Does this help?



Started from sit with RH where the LF is. I was failing trying to move from the above position to get my left hand on the seam directly above the RH. It was sweltering so it could have easily been that.

I think I started LH where LF is and RH further right on same break. Left heel on and roll into LH pinch, then pop with RH to get into similar position as photo. Can't remember if I went again with RH and got top with LH or did what you were trying. I can remember that the RH hold had minimal texture, so was really conditions dependant. I also remember a small RF hold that was useful on the lip of the roof, but don't know whether I used it to bump left heel along the break or for something else. I'll maybe go back and try it one evening, so if you see someone sat underneath getting pissed off by repeated failure, it's probably me.

There's a more direct version as well (grade harder maybe?), which I think goes up the poor flake, but never managed that one.

[36chambers]

I think I started LH where LF is and RH further right on same break. Left heel on and roll into LH pinch, then pop with RH to get into similar position as photo. Can't remember if I went again with RH and got top with LH or did what you were trying. I can remember that the RH hold had minimal texture, so was really conditions dependant. I also remember a small RF hold that was useful on the lip of the roof, but don't know whether I used it to bump left heel along the break or for something else. I'll maybe go back and try it one evening, so if you see someone sat underneath getting pissed off by repeated failure, it's probably me.

There's a more direct version as well (grade harder maybe?), which I think goes up the poor flake, but never managed that one.

cheers  . Good to know I was on the right track. I'm so use to lapping the other 7a's at the cliff that I was surprised that this one had a move I couldn't even do in isolation (even with bad conditions)

According to the Cameron Duff guide book, the direct version is easier at V5 (I don't know whether it uses the flake however). There's a V8 variant where you continue traversing the lip rightwards to finish as for Streaky's, which looks pretty good.

It's always nice to find new moves at the cliff.

[andy_e]

I always thought the 7A version finished at Streaky's, it's pretty much over once you get the lip of Matt's Roof anyway isn't it? I also struggled with this one, got a spanking and haven't been back on it since!

[36chambers]

I always thought the 7A version finished at Streaky's, it's pretty much over once you get the lip of Matt's Roof anyway isn't it? I also struggled with this one, got a spanking and haven't been back on it since!

I envisioned the 7B version to skip the seam I talked about (above RH in picture) and instead match LH to RH and then cross LH over to another bad sloper further right, before finally finding solace with the RH on the juggy lip. 

Although the bad sloper may not actually exist, I can't remember.

[SA Chris]

For a bad sloper, the line between existence and non-existence is always a fine one..

[mr chaz]

ltg 8A 8b

pretty rubbish week in which i climbed once and failed twice due to a) flooding and b) forgetting all of my shit. 

Tuesday. One arm hangs. Feeling a little heavy.

[csl]

Thanks mate, and good week for you! Congrats

Thanks! Although yesterday i managed to tweak a pulley as well so now literally feel your pain!

[nik at work]

Goals - get ticking some trad routes when the chasms re-opens at the end of the month, and tick some sport before that.

Struggling to remember exactly what I did this week as there was a lot going on but here goes...
M - Went to traverse wall, it was about 2,000,000 degrees, gave up quickly. Went to see an excellent local acoustic band in the evening.
T - Fit a slide that I'd built for the local childrens hospice, digging holes and mixing concrete.
W - I think I went to Bradda Sport with Doug, We each had a play on his project that he thinks is about 8b+, managed all the moves bar one. Cool route but epic effort to get onto it, big walk in, stint of coasteering, climb a 6b+ then make a tensioned descending traverse to a bolt, then lower down the (steep) line to a hanging start 50 feet above the sea... All good fun.
T - Possibly traverse wall? Not sure...
F - Senior race day, at the paddocks all day.
S - Nothing.
S - Bat cave, but was totally condensed out, didn't do any climbing. So went to traverse wall which was in reasonable condition. Doug showed me his 8a eliminate, managed to do it 4 times in the (short) session.

Good week, mostly dominated by the TT and associated bike silliness (which was brilliant obvs) but also some decent climbing racked up. Was pleased with the performance on Sunday, only a training traverse but still a decent work out.