appear to have re-injured my finger just as it was almost better. On beef it 7b
Quote from: ashtond6 on June 12, 2016, 07:21:35 pmappear to have re-injured my finger just as it was almost better. On beef it 7bPlease tell me it's not a finger on your right hand?
Quote from: nai on June 12, 2016, 08:47:30 pmQuote from: ashtond6 on June 12, 2016, 07:21:35 pmappear to have re-injured my finger just as it was almost better. On beef it 7bPlease tell me it's not a finger on your right hand?Haha yes it is, why?Bit disappointed as I took it relatively easy
Quote from: ashtond6 on June 12, 2016, 09:46:08 pmQuote from: nai on June 12, 2016, 08:47:30 pmQuote from: ashtond6 on June 12, 2016, 07:21:35 pmappear to have re-injured my finger just as it was almost better. On beef it 7bPlease tell me it's not a finger on your right hand?Haha yes it is, why?Bit disappointed as I took it relatively easyYou too kit easy on Beef It, a stereotypical one move wonder with a mega hard pull on a tiny right-hand crimp?
Quote from: ashtond6 on June 12, 2016, 09:46:08 pmQuote from: nai on June 12, 2016, 08:47:30 pmQuote from: ashtond6 on June 12, 2016, 07:21:35 pmappear to have re-injured my finger just as it was almost better. On beef it 7bPlease tell me it's not a finger on your right hand?Haha yes it is, why?Bit disappointed as I took it relatively easyIf you have a finger injury what were you doing at the embankment? a (ligamentous) finger injury will not take a couple of weeks to heal. Think 2-3 months of grit hand cracks, or easy mountain routes or similar. No bouldering, no peak limestone! Other wise you may as wll hit it with a hammer.
Didn't realise that when I set off! I was told it was easier than hungry eyes so didn't seem like an awful idea at the time... but in hindsight
Th - Tor - hot & humid. Decided to try Obscene Gesture again. Still can't move once in the gesture so sacked it off after a couple of attempts (although more hindsight beta analysis has me wondering...).
Quote from: nai on June 13, 2016, 09:48:45 amTh - Tor - hot & humid. Decided to try Obscene Gesture again. Still can't move once in the gesture so sacked it off after a couple of attempts (although more hindsight beta analysis has me wondering...). I could barely hold the position, then I found a little notch for the thumb to tuck under, turning the hold into more of a pinchy gaston, then it felt surprisingly OK. Of course that's probably of no use it you are doing it the thumb way!
T: Almscliff. Spotted chalk on The Descent Route 7A on the egg boulder. Knew about this problem but hadn't a clue where it went. Either said problem is a massive sandbag or I was mistaken, because it felt desperate. Anyone on here done it?
I have. I had a similar experience of putting a pad under it on a couple of occasions and making next to no progress, then did it a couple of years ago. I thought it was tough for the grade (got V5 in the old YGB Rockfax). No idea what grade it is, but I remember it coming together really quickly when I put some effort in. I'd have to be stood in front of it to provide any useful beta though - sorry!