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Megoswad (Read 224348 times)

Adam Lincoln

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#300 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 03:23:52 pm

If its true that its sorted then fair enough. Not read all the comments to confirm if its fixed and back to original form.

Basically it sounds like if Seb had given it a brush there wouldn't have been an issue  :lol:

Ive just asked henning ‘keeper of the cave’ what the score is for definitive answer.

Bradders

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#301 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 03:44:05 pm
Sounds like Pavel Blazek (Ondra's manager?) owned up to it but actually all a bit of a non-issue.

Next level stuff though creating an exact replica of the holds etc. Like those Japanese climbers who made resin copies of the holds on Burden of Dreams. Sounds like something for the thread about the future of climbing; why bother getting on a plane and messing about with conditions when you could rent a warehouse and build an exact replica?

Disclaimer - I can think of many reasons, but still...

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#302 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 03:45:09 pm
Dunno, I spent 3 weeks in july there the year after moving from SA, and it was pretty hot (almost too hot) most days. Guess the sectors I was on didn't overhang by 30 degrees though.
I lived there the summers of 91 and 92 and thought conditions were great on the Berlin/ biography sectors. Cascade more of a winter venue, perfect in the sun other than cornice collapse.
Nah it's all good - just have to get up earlier for Cascade

teestub

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#303 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 04:08:56 pm

Ive just asked henning ‘keeper of the cave’ what the score is for definitive answer.

Chris says hi!!

cheque

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#304 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 04:20:31 pm
I heard silence has been partially ruined due to someone trying to make a replica/mould of it.

Just another similarity between Silence and Overlapping Wall at Broadbottom Quarry.

Adam Lincoln

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#305 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 04:27:14 pm
I heard silence has been partially ruined due to someone trying to make a replica/mould of it.

Just another similarity between Silence and Overlapping Wall at Broadbottom Quarry.

 :lol:

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#306 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 06:16:13 pm
So how does something like this work in terms of project etiquette?

I gather Ethan Pringle bolted it. When he realised it wasn't going to happen, did he bequeath it personally to Alex? Or was it an open project, but the other (two or three) contenders politely stayed away when they got wind that Alex was working it?

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#307 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 06:28:45 pm
I’d love to celebrate this achievement but I’ve no idea if Megos eats healthily enough. Does anyone have the details on that?  ;)

Have you not heard the one about him being carried away from a comp ?(not a joke)

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#308 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 06:32:03 pm
Have you not heard the one about him being carried away from a comp ?(not a joke)

Really? Tell me more.

Doylo

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#309 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 06:33:02 pm
Have you not heard the one about him being carried away from a comp ?(not a joke)

Really? Tell me more.

Just heard he got carried away from a comp cos he had so little energy.

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#310 Re: Megoswad
August 08, 2020, 05:26:46 am

No doubt. I'd raise the bet to Ondra repeats Bibliographie before Megos does Silence!

Yeah, 100%. In fact I'd raise you and bet Megos will never do Silence.

I'm hoping for some controversy. Ondra climbs Bibliography and downgrades it to 9b/+. Megos goes to Norway in a huff, climbs Silence, and downgrades it to HVS

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#311 Re: Megoswad
August 09, 2020, 10:06:32 am
The conditions been pretty horrendous in Céüse in July, one or two evenings with dry heat and a bit wind when the conditions were good. For the last visit Mr. Megos showed up the first day with reasonable conditions in two weeks, fell at the very last bit. Then we left, so I do not know how the conditions were.

Céüse starts to be really polished. This summer I repeated some routes I did five years ago and they are definitely harder now (fact! because i do not age...). Some of the 7a-7bs in Demi-Lune are most surely harder than classic 7a-7bs on Escales in Verdon.

Several good climbers (hi Chris+) have said that even Biographie is polished, especially the start, and a lot harder now than ten years ago.

SA Chris

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#312 Re: Megoswad
August 09, 2020, 09:46:42 pm
Things like Medecine Douce and Ananada (easiest warmups in Cascade) were slippery in mid 90s, must be glassy now.

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#313 Re: Megoswad
August 10, 2020, 07:49:24 am
Things like Medecine Douce and Ananada (easiest warmups in Cascade) were slippery in mid 90s, must be glassy now.

Cascade was the worst offender in terms of polish when I was there a few years ago. That said, I didn't think any of it was too bad, there are so many good routes that for every polished one there are 5+ that are fine. Its not Raven Tor quite yet.

SA Chris

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#314 Re: Megoswad
August 10, 2020, 08:58:28 am
True enough, could be memory, one of the first limestone crag I visited. Since then I've climbed at many that are a lot worse!

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#315 Re: Megoswad
August 12, 2020, 02:03:04 pm
More evidence of the pros using ebikes to good effect to save their energy for the business end...

https://www.climbing.com/news/interview-alex-megos-discusses-the-first-ascent-of-bibliography-9c-5-15d/

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#316 Re: Megoswad
August 12, 2020, 02:22:56 pm
Christ. He's dead to me. First e-bike free ascent awaits.

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#317 Re: Megoswad
August 12, 2020, 02:28:17 pm
E-bike rental business, shuttling people from Malham parking to the catwalk. £15 each way. Both sight see-ers and the redpointers who just need that je ne sais quoi to get the tick.

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#318 Re: Megoswad
August 12, 2020, 09:17:23 pm
I would have thought given the current economic climate there would be a few out of work peasants who could offer piggybacks or even offer a sedan chair service.

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#319 Re: Megoswad
August 12, 2020, 09:27:23 pm
Never bolts his own projects and uses electric to get up to the crag. Lazy cunt.

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#320 Re: Megoswad
August 13, 2020, 08:08:41 am
More evidence of the pros using ebikes to good effect to save their energy for the business end...

https://www.climbing.com/news/interview-alex-megos-discusses-the-first-ascent-of-bibliography-9c-5-15d/

I've been wondering about this. Haven't been to Ceuse yet but might be in a few weeks if Catalonia stays off the cards due to the big V.

Me and the girly have e-mtbs (f**k off, they're so much fun) and I was wondering if The Approach could be cheated with them... seems like it's on the cards. Has to be fair game if the Megos is willing to stoop to it...  ;D

Once heard Randall compliment Barrows somewhere about how he saves energy when working a route by getting his belayer to drag him up the crag instead of pulling... Cora's current tactic is to get me to drag her up to the crag so this has to be a better solution  :w00t:

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#321 Re: Megoswad
August 13, 2020, 08:19:02 am
Time to invest in an electric golf caddy to get your clobber to the crag without expending too much energy :D


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#322 Re: Megoswad
August 13, 2020, 08:20:25 am
Time to invest in an electric golf caddy to get your clobber to the crag without expending too much energy :D



Ooh now we're talking!

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#323 Re: Megoswad
August 13, 2020, 08:25:16 am
Now this is on the money 😂

https://mysandhopper.com/


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#324 Re: Megoswad
August 13, 2020, 08:25:35 am
The Approach

All joking aside, I've never understood the terror the walk in elicits in people. Its a beautiful walk on a winding track through a forest and is a piece of piss once you've stashed a rope up there. If you're halfway fit it won't be an issue.

 

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