UKBouldering.com

the shizzle => news => Topic started by: gcarmichael on May 31, 2016, 04:14:26 pm

Title: Megoswad
Post by: gcarmichael on May 31, 2016, 04:14:26 pm
Looks like Megos has done Hubble!  :strongbench:

https://twitter.com/EthanClimbing/status/737654693103570944/photo/1

Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Nibile on May 31, 2016, 04:17:10 pm
WOW!!! BRILLIANT!!!
 :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: cowboyhat on May 31, 2016, 04:36:19 pm
6th ascent, significant?
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Nibile on May 31, 2016, 04:37:09 pm
 :lol:
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: tomtom on May 31, 2016, 04:45:09 pm
6th ascent, significant?

FFA.... ;)


first foreign ascent
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: dave on May 31, 2016, 04:45:59 pm
"First foreign ascent" - that's a thing now is it?
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Footwork on May 31, 2016, 04:49:22 pm
Yeah, so is "First Fireman Ascent"

Wonder how hard he thought it was
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: tomtom on May 31, 2016, 04:50:12 pm
"First foreign ascent" - that's a thing now is it?

Yeah. For real. Straight up. Dead serious.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: haydn jones on May 31, 2016, 05:25:52 pm
He made it look absolutely piss :strongbench:
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on May 31, 2016, 06:54:22 pm
With

or

Without

?

That's mega  ;D
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: haydn jones on May 31, 2016, 07:02:48 pm
Without ofc. Megos dislikes kneebars.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Doylo on May 31, 2016, 07:10:14 pm
Definitely not significant. 26 year old route gets multi sessioned by a 9b climber. He should walk home in bare feet holding his head in shame (and definitely not come to Wales).
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Oldmanmatt on May 31, 2016, 07:15:50 pm
Definitely not significant. 26 year old route gets multi sessioned by a 9b climber. He should walk home in bare feet holding his head in shame (and definitely not come to Wales).

Threatened there, is it, Boyo?

[emoji6]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on May 31, 2016, 07:21:55 pm
Without ofc. Megos dislikes kneebars.

What's that got to do with Clairol?

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7524/26771926344_a0f08962c5_c.jpg)
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: haydn jones on May 31, 2016, 07:24:05 pm
He's  already planed a trip to lpt doylo
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Andy F V2.0 on May 31, 2016, 07:39:33 pm
Any info on number of tries, what he thought of the grade etc?
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Doylo on May 31, 2016, 07:42:01 pm
He must repent his sins and bow down under Liquid Ambar, kissing the crozzle before scaling the golden overhang of bullet hard pristine limestone. As he tops out and looks across at the golden light on the Diamond he will have finally achieved enlightenment and then I'll let him do The Big Crunch proj.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: haydn jones on May 31, 2016, 07:47:35 pm
Took him several attempts. But did all the moves static on RP. And then got on kabaah. Fell off touching the flake on his first rp. I left then assume he's  gonna have another go. He opted for the original steve mac beta on the uper crux. Really impressive stuff. Nobody asked about the grade. Don't  think anybody really cared. You climb hubble for the name not the grade
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Scouse D on May 31, 2016, 10:37:11 pm
Nobody asked about the grade. Don't  think anybody really cared. You climb hubble for the name not the grade

Someone should have asked.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on May 31, 2016, 11:37:52 pm
This is potentially a bit of a call out to everyone else. It could be really interesting, what happens next - well, could be, if conditions weren't so fickle. Style of ascent too. Will anyone else following, eschew the knee pad? It will be an interesting situation, if the historic interpretation becomes "de rigueur".

I know all of this has been thrown about before, but the pad/sans pad debate seems more relevant, but still hanging. No right answer of course.

Despite the grade, I've got to say that I think this is surely significant, as much for the rarity and historic aspects. I'm probably stating the obvious.

Would have been great to see. Any more photos/video?
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Moo on June 01, 2016, 01:54:17 am
Be good for him to try violent new breed. I'd love to get a climber, of megos's caliber, perspective on that route.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Ben Moon on June 01, 2016, 09:36:00 am
I'm taking him up to Kilnsey today so he can do Northern Lights. I am wondering if he will want to try the onsight or flash...
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: andy_e on June 01, 2016, 09:38:35 am
 :popcorn:
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Grubes on June 01, 2016, 09:45:44 am
 :bounce: :popcorn:
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: standard on June 01, 2016, 10:06:08 am
no Mutation?
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Nibile on June 01, 2016, 10:18:32 am
 :popcorn:
Brilliant stuff.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on June 01, 2016, 12:29:13 pm
Basileus of Macedon, Hegemon of the Hellenic League, Shahanshah of Persia, Pharaoh of Egypt, Lord of Asia..

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7309/27295796132_8103f4f0b0_b.jpg)

King of Kilnsey?
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Doylo on June 01, 2016, 01:26:31 pm
King of Milky Bars
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Serpico on June 01, 2016, 04:42:42 pm
King of Milky Bars

That will always be Vickers.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Andy F V2.0 on June 01, 2016, 06:05:34 pm
Basileus of Macedon, Hegemon of the Hellenic League, Shahanshah of Persia, Pharaoh of Egypt, Lord of Asia..

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7309/27295796132_8103f4f0b0_b.jpg)

King of Kilnsey?

If his ears were slightly pointier he'd look like a Lothlorien elve.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: monkoffunk on June 01, 2016, 06:23:21 pm
Any word on Northern Lights?
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: SEDur on June 01, 2016, 08:38:52 pm
Second for getting him on VNB.

Would be interesting to see someone that good, repeat an unrepeated Gaskins monstrosity.

Unfortunately, with such limited time there is little sense wasting it on something that isn't fashionable are highly regarded...   
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: a dense loner on June 01, 2016, 08:57:05 pm
as having been done
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Palomides on June 01, 2016, 09:19:55 pm
Kairn.com have got this picture (probably not the actual ascent?)

(http://www.kairn.com/files/news/23586152125617-amegos-jpg)
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Duma on June 01, 2016, 09:30:05 pm
Same pic is on ukc marked as 2014
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 01, 2016, 09:42:32 pm
Same pic is on ukc marked as 2014

what's that in UK tech grades?
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: haydn jones on June 01, 2016, 10:43:30 pm
Be patient for the footage guys. :) i recorded it and so did yann. Megos has the footage im sure it will be up once the correct sponsers have slapped there logo all over it.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: tomtom on June 01, 2016, 10:46:53 pm
Same pic is on ukc marked as 2014

what's that in UK tech grades?

Zarg funtus.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: 36chambers on June 02, 2016, 08:52:39 am
From his instagram https://www.instagram.com/p/BGIElmYSG6r/

"8c+, 9a+ or 8b+. Who cares?! It's the name that counts! And the name is HUBBLE! It's a piece of history! Thanks Ben Moon for putting up that thing and for having a vision! A vision for what is possible, the next step!"

I care. (a little bit.) I'm always slightly disappointed when professional climbers repeat hard things (with debatable grades) and refuse to comment. What are we actually paying him for??
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: masonwoods101 on June 02, 2016, 08:55:51 am
 :chair: whats the grade!!
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Nibile on June 02, 2016, 09:22:12 am
Any news from Kilnsey?
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: shark on June 02, 2016, 09:27:45 am
Any news from Kilnsey?

Steve Lewis aka Steve the Pro aka STP and a longstanding buddy of Ben Moon commented on UKC:

Quote
Weather was shite up there - very strong winds and cold so no success stories from Kilnsey today though there were a few valiant attempts.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Footwork on June 02, 2016, 10:09:38 am
From his instagram https://www.instagram.com/p/BGIElmYSG6r/

"8c+, 9a+ or 8b+. Who cares?! It's the name that counts! And the name is HUBBLE! It's a piece of history! Thanks Ben Moon for putting up that thing and for having a vision! A vision for what is possible, the next step!"

I care. (a little bit.) I'm always slightly disappointed when professional climbers repeat hard things (with debatable grades) and refuse to comment. What are we actually paying him for??

I would also like to know, even if it's just a personal little musing of what he thought. Wasn't Hubble the worlds first 8c+? I assume people then must have climbed it for the grade? I thought it got touted to be 9a after a visiting wad failed and the grade speculation and Ben Moon myth grew from there. It's probably better for no one to comment on the grade ever again, keeping the aura alive.

8b+. Is he on crack?
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: SA Chris on June 02, 2016, 10:22:32 am
as having been done

I was waiting for that.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Duma on June 02, 2016, 10:25:03 am


8b+. Is he on crack?

I assumed he meant 8B+
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: petejh on June 02, 2016, 10:26:01 am
What are we actually paying him for??

To climb noteworthy climbs whilst marketing certain brands in the process. #Drink over-caffeinated sugary drink company (28 grams of sugar per small can) ;)
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Murph on June 02, 2016, 11:38:01 am
Great news.

Correct me if I'm wrong but this makes Megos the first person to do both Hubble and Action....or at least the first actual properly confirmed time this has happened..?
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 02, 2016, 11:42:49 am


8b+. Is he on crack?

I assumed he meant 8B+

yeah, that's what I thought - I guess his accent makes it difficult to hear whether he's speaking in caps or not
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Will Hunt on June 02, 2016, 12:12:44 pm
In an Australian-style points immigration system, how many points does "coming over here, refusing to grade our hard routes" score you? Minus figures or what?
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: tomtom on June 02, 2016, 12:17:41 pm
In an Australian-style points immigration system, how many points does "coming over here, refusing to grade our hard routes" score you? Minus figures or what?

So Barrows is being deported then?
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 02, 2016, 02:46:37 pm
In an Australian-style points immigration system, how many points does "coming over here, refusing to grade our hard routes" score you? Minus figures or what?

I believe the brightest and best German climbers should stay in Germany and help to improve the standard of routes in their own country instead of coming over here, repeating 9as and getting burned off by dave.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: dave on June 02, 2016, 04:28:40 pm
As an aside where are people pulling this bullshit "bouldering grades = capital letters" thing from? #bullshit
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 02, 2016, 04:38:15 pm
wikipedia innit (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grade_(bouldering))

obviously it wasn't wikipedias idea, they just tell us the truth about what people do

Quote
The grades in this system are similar to the French route grades, but have different meaning. An 8a route is significantly easier than an 8A boulder problem. To reduce confusion, some people write the bouldering grades in upper-case letters (e.g. "8B+" vs. "8b+").

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=4024.0;wap
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Duma on June 02, 2016, 04:47:42 pm
Good for clarity innit dave.


I believe it was jens 8a.poo first started it, which normally would be a good reason to ignore it, but in this case I think it makes sense.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 02, 2016, 04:52:35 pm
Think it's actually the only useful idea ever to come from that site. Stops the V grade idiots from being able to push their inferior grading system as "more clear".
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: jwi on June 02, 2016, 05:20:06 pm
I'm pretty sure it was Bjorn Pohl's idea. JL has not had a single good idea in his entire life.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Duma on June 02, 2016, 05:25:33 pm
Excellent news. I feel better about using the convention now.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: fried on June 02, 2016, 06:34:00 pm
I'm pretty sure it was Bjorn Pohl's idea. JL has not had a single good idea in his entire life.

Except 'time comparison grading' of course  ;)
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Moo on June 02, 2016, 06:42:10 pm
Do you also have to shout the capital letters during phonetical explanation?
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: dave on June 02, 2016, 07:00:27 pm
It's a bollocks idea, since you can't rely on a consistency of capitalisation in most online content anyway. I've never seen a bouldering guide using uppercase.

It's like having a system where you tell the difference between pounds and pence that relies on the person saying it being stood up or crouching.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: tomtom on June 02, 2016, 07:11:06 pm
It's a bollocks idea, since you can't rely on a consistency of capitalisation in most online content anyway. I've never seen a bouldering guide using uppercase.

It's like having a system where you tell the difference between pounds and pence that relies on the person saying it being stood up or crouching.

Who's a grumpy bastard today then eh? ;) You're on bloody holiday too!
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 02, 2016, 07:13:09 pm

It's like having a system where you tell the difference between pounds and pence that relies on the person saying it being stood up or crouching.

or a tiny dot marking the difference and the most important part being whether the number is to the left or the right of the dot - that would be craaaaaazeeey
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: dave on June 02, 2016, 07:18:16 pm
It's a bollocks idea, since you can't rely on a consistency of capitalisation in most online content anyway. I've never seen a bouldering guide using uppercase.

It's like having a system where you tell the difference between pounds and pence that relies on the person saying it being stood up or crouching.

Who's a grumpy bastard today then eh? ;) You're on bloody holiday too!

Not grumpy - you'll note I'm using bollocks in lowercase, which indicates mild incredulousness with an air of resignation, rather than the conventional usage in uppercase. It's a standard I've been using for a while but only on my own pet project language website that most people think is a sack of shite. I see no problem here.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 02, 2016, 07:19:27 pm
that Craster Crack must be as good as people say
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: tomtom on June 02, 2016, 07:27:27 pm
that Craster Crack must be as good as people say

He was tweeting a request for the Northumberland Apostrophe Polices' number earlier... ;)
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: dave on June 02, 2016, 07:29:19 pm
that Craster Crack must be as good as people say

He was tweeting a request for the Northumberland Apostrophe Polices' number earlier... ;)

You'd be spending a night in the cells for that post.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: tomtom on June 02, 2016, 07:33:09 pm
Can I go in the stocks - where people can throw rotten exclamation marks at me?
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Muenchener on June 02, 2016, 07:53:38 pm
It's like having a system where you tell the difference between pounds and pence that relies on the person saying it being stood up or crouching.

Tonal lsnguages innit? Rusing intonation: route. Falling: boulder
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 02, 2016, 09:00:52 pm
It's a bollocks idea, since you can't rely on a consistency of capitalisation in most online content anyway. I've never seen a bouldering guide using uppercase.

It's like having a system where you tell the difference between pounds and pence that relies on the person saying it being stood up or crouching.
Can't believe this is new news to you. Get with the programme Ken Wilson.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 02, 2016, 09:06:08 pm
do we use italics for top-rope grades?
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: petejh on June 02, 2016, 09:11:18 pm
Still frenchics afaik
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: shurt on June 02, 2016, 09:25:48 pm
From his instagram https://www.instagram.com/p/BGIElmYSG6r/

"8c+, 9a+ or 8b+. Who cares?! It's the name that counts! And the name is HUBBLE! It's a piece of history! Thanks Ben Moon for putting up that thing and for having a vision! A vision for what is possible, the next step!"

I care. (a little bit.) I'm always slightly disappointed when professional climbers repeat hard things (with debatable grades) and refuse to comment. What are we actually paying him for??

I would also like to know, even if it's just a personal little musing of what he thought. Wasn't Hubble the worlds first 8c+? I assume people then must have climbed it for the grade? I thought it got touted to be 9a after a visiting wad failed and the grade speculation and Ben Moon myth grew from there. It's probably better for no one to comment on the grade ever again, keeping the aura alive.

8b+. Is he on crack?

Not sure what the 'Ben Moon myth' means? It was upgraded in the new Peak Lime guide, not sure thats 9a being touted around, its a guidebook upgrade. I guess people failing on it had some effect on that but still. As far as the aura goes its a really hard bouldery route which aren't really in vogue. I mean its not La Rambla is it?
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 02, 2016, 09:36:38 pm
Didn't Ondra say 9a? And he's not done it yet. Case closed.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Muenchener on June 02, 2016, 09:54:16 pm
It's like having a system where you tell the difference between pounds and pence that relies on the person saying it being stood up or crouching.

Tonal lsnguages innit? Rusing intonation: route. Falling: boulder

Oops, typing on the phone. Sorry chaps.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: dave on June 02, 2016, 10:24:20 pm
It's a bollocks idea, since you can't rely on a consistency of capitalisation in most online content anyway. I've never seen a bouldering guide using uppercase.

It's like having a system where you tell the difference between pounds and pence that relies on the person saying it being stood up or crouching.
Can't believe this is new news to you. Get with the programme Ken Wilson.

TBH I've noticed it it before a few times but it seems such a terrible idea that I couldn't bring myself to actually acknowledge its existence. Basically I thought if I ignored it it would go away. Bit like UKIP or a mysterious lump on your bollocks.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: a dense loner on June 02, 2016, 10:28:42 pm
That's your penis Dave
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: haydn jones on June 02, 2016, 11:02:06 pm
Did kabaah today and then evo in 3 goes. Back for mutation next week.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Scouse D on June 02, 2016, 11:56:52 pm
Effort Hayden.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: haydn jones on June 03, 2016, 12:03:15 am
Ahh well its all in a days work.  Would have done mutation but had to go cure aids this afternoon in the lab. So thats done now too
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: duncan on June 03, 2016, 08:57:53 am
Interview (http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/alexander-megos-climbs-hubble-the-raven-tor-interview.html) on Planetmountain.

"Personally I知 not a great fan of kneebars..."
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: SA Chris on June 03, 2016, 09:04:30 am
Good interview. That picture looks like something out of a Jack Willis catalogue though.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Serpico on June 03, 2016, 10:07:00 am
It's a bollocks idea, since you can't rely on a consistency of capitalisation in most online content anyway. I've never seen a bouldering guide using uppercase.

It's like having a system where you tell the difference between pounds and pence that relies on the person saying it being stood up or crouching.
Can't believe this is new news to you. Get with the programme Ken Wilson.

TBH I've noticed it it before a few times but it seems such a terrible idea that I couldn't bring myself to actually acknowledge its existence. Basically I thought if I ignored it it would go away. Bit like UKIP or a mysterious lump on your bollocks.

You mean ukip surely?
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: tomtom on June 03, 2016, 10:21:13 am
It's a bollocks idea, since you can't rely on a consistency of capitalisation in most online content anyway. I've never seen a bouldering guide using uppercase.

It's like having a system where you tell the difference between pounds and pence that relies on the person saying it being stood up or crouching.
Can't believe this is new news to you. Get with the programme Ken Wilson.

TBH I've noticed it it before a few times but it seems such a terrible idea that I couldn't bring myself to actually acknowledge its existence. Basically I thought if I ignored it it would go away. Bit like UKIP or a mysterious lump on your bollocks.

You mean ukip surely?

:D - and while we are at it... I have just noticed your forum name is dave...

(http://www.newhamrecorder.co.uk/polopoly_fs/1.3492283!/image/1289677459.jpg_gen/derivatives/landscape_490/1289677459.jpg)
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Will Hunt on June 03, 2016, 10:28:36 am
It's a bollocks idea, since you can't rely on a consistency of capitalisation in most online content anyway. I've never seen a bouldering guide using uppercase.

It's like having a system where you tell the difference between pounds and pence that relies on the person saying it being stood up or crouching.

yeah right on dave using capital letters to start a sentence or commas to indicate a pause is totally whack you cant rely on it you should just have everything written in lower case without these stupid grammar rules if you cant rely on it then theres no reason to even try to use it i for one will definitely not be using punctuation or grammar from now on cos its so much simpler than trying to put those stupid capitalists capitals and fascist full stops everywhere but you should know that im typing all of this while standing on one leg that means that im not being completely serious but i guess you know that because the crack youre on has given you excellent powers of perception peace out word
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Doylo on June 03, 2016, 10:44:45 am
Hardly surprising he found Kabaah harder. Hubble is four basic moves off the deck two grades below his boulder limit. Kabaah has 18? metres to learn with a droppable crux near the top.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: ghisino on June 03, 2016, 10:48:38 am
Interview (http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/alexander-megos-climbs-hubble-the-raven-tor-interview.html) on Planetmountain.

"Personally I知 not a great fan of kneebars..."

Disappointed about his way not to really comment the grade 

I wonder if he feels some pressure as FJ local.

If i was the journalist i would have asked: Ok then, do you think it is easier than
AD?
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: T_B on June 03, 2016, 11:17:43 am
Interview (http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/alexander-megos-climbs-hubble-the-raven-tor-interview.html) on Planetmountain.

"Personally I知 not a great fan of kneebars..."

Disappointed about his way not to really comment the grade 


He's saying it's 8c+ for him is he not? And he's confirmed the Font 8B boulder grade, which was always the grade BM gave it (before McColl tried it and suggested 8B+). What more do you want?
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: gcarmichael on June 03, 2016, 12:42:39 pm
This clears it up...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70492
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Coops_13 on June 03, 2016, 12:45:19 pm
This clears it up...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70492
He should go into politics...
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: tk421a on June 03, 2016, 12:54:16 pm
Think he needs a paxman treatment

https://youtu.be/Uwlsd8RAoqI?t=4m13s
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Luke Owens on June 03, 2016, 12:54:49 pm
Can we get Paxman to interview him?

Edit: Beat me to it!
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: shark on June 03, 2016, 12:55:13 pm
Interview (http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/alexander-megos-climbs-hubble-the-raven-tor-interview.html) on Planetmountain.

"Personally I知 not a great fan of kneebars..."

Good interview

Quote
I returned to the UK in 2015 but didn稚 try it, and now I知 back in the UK because I just wanted to come and climb here. I like the atmosphere, the people, the climbing

 :wub:
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Paul B on June 03, 2016, 01:01:31 pm
This clears it up...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70492

Does it?  :-\
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Doylo on June 03, 2016, 01:09:36 pm
Sounds like he's saying its 8c+ for him but 9a if you're weak  :o
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: SA Chris on June 03, 2016, 01:27:52 pm
This clears it up...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70492
He should go into politics...

Don't let him near Longridge, the fence is getting broken enough already.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: petejh on June 03, 2016, 02:11:40 pm
All places on the fence reserved with towels..
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Oldmanmatt on June 03, 2016, 02:16:40 pm
This clears it up...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70492

Does it?  :-\

Yep.

I remember a little of my "O" level German and I can translate.
He said:

"Climbing grades are so F」&@ing subjective it hurts, now ask me how to solve the crisis in the Middle East, 'coz that's more simples, innit".

Roughly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: monkoffunk on June 03, 2016, 03:41:52 pm
Jens' take on it all is quite amusing. He seems quite distressed by the uncertainty.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Teaboy on June 03, 2016, 04:09:50 pm
So to decided, Kaabah is 9a? Cool, Ted's climbed 9a
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: jfdm on June 03, 2016, 05:34:53 pm
Had a look at interview with Alex on planet mountain.

In the end you can either do it or you can't.
Grades at the end of the day are subjective as Oldmanmatt/Alex etc suggests.
And also about bragging rights.

I grade climbs either easy - can do.
Or impossible - can't do.
It's simple, no need for fancy numbers or letters.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: monkoffunk on June 03, 2016, 06:28:32 pm
I grade climbs either easy - can do.
Or impossible - can't do.
It's simple, no need for fancy numbers or letters.

No middle ground?
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: jfdm on June 03, 2016, 06:44:59 pm
No middle ground?

No, need really.
As others have said why sit on the fence.
Middle ground would be just that, sitting on the fence?
My way a bit like John gills "B" grades but more streamlined...
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 03, 2016, 07:00:16 pm
I grade climbs either easy - can do.
Or impossible - can't do.
It's simple, no need for fancy numbers or letters.

that's just loser talk

for wood climbers there is just "done" and "not done yet"

the numbers and letters for rock are to help people train for wood
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: jfdm on June 03, 2016, 07:31:20 pm
that's just loser talk
for wood climbers there is just "done" and "not done yet"
the numbers and letters for rock are to help people train for wood

Lagers, is this the John "Dunne" grading system.
He was/is a great climber.
Just simply Duune/notDunne. :)
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: 36chambers on June 03, 2016, 07:42:41 pm
Jens' take on it all is quite amusing. He seems quite distressed by the uncertainty.

Has Jens taken down the original Megos Hubble story? I enjoyed reading the comments yesterday, but can't seem to find them today.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: monkoffunk on June 03, 2016, 07:47:06 pm
Jens' take on it all is quite amusing. He seems quite distressed by the uncertainty.

Has Jens taken down the original Megos Hubble story? I enjoyed reading the comments yesterday, but can't seem to find them today.

I think its still there!
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Footwork on June 03, 2016, 07:55:29 pm
Is Jens in some kind of Schrdingers box where Hubble is and is not 9a? I haven't seen/ found the comments.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: 36chambers on June 03, 2016, 08:06:30 pm
Jens' take on it all is quite amusing. He seems quite distressed by the uncertainty.

Has Jens taken down the original Megos Hubble story? I enjoyed reading the comments yesterday, but can't seem to find them today.

I think its still there!

cheers, yeah it's still there. I previously had GBR selected as the country code and the Hubble news doesn't appear in that feed...
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: monkoffunk on June 03, 2016, 08:38:35 pm
Is Jens in some kind of Schrdingers box where Hubble is and is not 9a? I haven't seen/ found the comments.

Jens attacks UKC and says he finds it strange that they don't report the grade as 8c+/9a before suggesting the grade of 8c+ (9a).
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: monkoffunk on June 03, 2016, 08:39:58 pm
Which I think is more than 8c+ and less than 8c+/9a.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Doylo on June 03, 2016, 08:58:09 pm
I like the conspiracy theory that he hinted at 8c+ to keep Action as the first 9a :-\
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: gme on June 03, 2016, 10:53:44 pm
 It's easy. Hubble is 8c+ liquid Ambar is 8c, action direct is 8c+/9a.
Germany is similar France is a bit easier and Spain is overgraded. It always worked before and appears to be the same now

And routes that you have to be strong for are more worthy than ones that just need entail fortitude.

The UK and peak in particular should not have anything that could be called soft or easy for the grade period. Upgrading things will mean we have.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Footwork on June 03, 2016, 11:36:54 pm
Is Jens in some kind of Schrdingers box where Hubble is and is not 9a? I haven't seen/ found the comments.

Jens attacks UKC and says he finds it strange that they don't report the grade as 8c+/9a before suggesting the grade of 8c+ (9a).

Cheers. I like how the thread of Wheelbarrows climbing Wheel Of Life is pretty much about Hubble again  :slap:
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: jwi on June 04, 2016, 10:23:41 am
Rubbernecking is a human trait, but every time you click on eight eye you are a part of the problem.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Muenchener on June 04, 2016, 06:38:36 pm
I find it a fascinating experiment in the power of having the biggest database whilst making sure every single other thing is as crap as possible.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: tomtom on June 04, 2016, 07:33:16 pm
I find it a fascinating experiment in the power of having the biggest database whilst making sure every single other thing is as crap as possible.


A bit like iTunes...
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Doylo on June 05, 2016, 12:54:39 am
He's done Northern Lights now, Mega. hope he does some of the hard stuff on LPT.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Coops_13 on June 05, 2016, 08:04:49 am
https://instagram.com/p/BGQD1sRSG-2/
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Luke Owens on June 05, 2016, 08:35:23 am
Interesting how it took him longer than Realization...

He's done Northern Lights now, Mega. hope he does some of the hard stuff on LPT.

Shame it's not Diamond season.

Anyone know if he's actually coming to Wales?

Edit: Should this just be changed into a "Megoswad" thread?
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Teaboy on June 05, 2016, 08:49:58 am
Eighth try of the day? And that's from falling 2/3 of the way up. That's the thing I find most astonishing, I don't know anyone who has more than four RPs a day even on short stuff
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Duma on June 05, 2016, 11:04:58 am
What teaboy said
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Stu Littlefair on June 05, 2016, 12:05:46 pm
All your friends are lazy. Jules regularly has 7-8 redpoint goes on her projects. And quite regularly succeeds at the end of the day.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Nibile on June 05, 2016, 12:41:18 pm
Grest news!
Looks like I chose the right time to be in charge of the news of an online climbing mag!
STOP PRESS!
 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: tim palmer on June 05, 2016, 02:11:10 pm
I am suprised not that he had enough gas in the tank for 8 redpoints, he has climbed full time for his whole life it seems, but that he had enough skin, from what I gather northern lights is utterly savage on the tips.   

On the hubble grade he seemed pretty unambiguous, it is 8c+ in his opinion.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: monkoffunk on June 05, 2016, 02:41:36 pm
He basically said mid 8c+. If he thought 9a he'd probably have said. World likely to keep spinning either way.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: dave on June 05, 2016, 02:48:17 pm
Rainshadow is turning into a popular first 9a tick then.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: a dense loner on June 05, 2016, 07:13:26 pm
Tim, Alex weighs 54 kgs I don't think he could split his tips on a razor blade!
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Doylo on June 05, 2016, 08:05:14 pm
You should be able to have 8 redpoints if you're a full time climber.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Kingy on June 05, 2016, 08:44:42 pm
Progress and True North for Mr Megos today (both 1st RP I think) and a casual onsight of Urgent Action at the end of the day to cool down. I know no other details as I was belaying on the extreme left of the crag and missed all the action!  :oops:
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Paul B on June 05, 2016, 09:27:13 pm
All your friends are lazy. Jules regularly has 7-8 redpoint goes on her projects. And quite regularly succeeds at the end of the day.

Most people today including inspector 5c seemed to think 3 good goes was nearer the norm so I'd challenge what you've said and ask if there's perhaps another explanation (every route of every style at the same grade)? I'd be massively impressed if so. Accepting I AM lazy of course.

On the grade of Hubble (if i dare be so bold) I got the impression he was trying his best to avoid being drawn into the whole debate having simply come to get it done; disappointing as that may be for people needing grade closure. People will draw their own conclusions.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Duma on June 05, 2016, 09:28:05 pm
is he going to Malham? or have the housemartins/sunshine ended it?
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Wood FT on June 05, 2016, 09:32:24 pm
is he going to Malham? or have the housemartins/sunshine ended it?


Malham seems like it'll be hotter than the sun Lynne for the next few weeks
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Kingy on June 05, 2016, 10:26:46 pm
For me its defo 3 good attempts on top of the warm up bolt to bolt go, then the 4th one will usually be shit. This is the weekend warrior take on it though. Maybe its different for full time uberwads?? Depends on the nature of the route too, a short bouldery one you can have more goes on. On a massive 35m pitch at your limit, walk away after 2 tries!  :)
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Stu Littlefair on June 06, 2016, 08:04:40 am
3-4 good goes is "the norm", but people seem to think it's some unchangeable law of physiology.

I've had this discussion with Mawson before and session fitness is as trainable as anything else. A higher volume in training will allow most to have more good goes per day. Megos is famous for doing huge amounts every day and, lo and behold, can have lots of goes.

It's also worth noting that most of the 3-4 good goes crowd rarely have that 5th or 6th go. Perhaps they'd surprise themselves? I've noticed a common pattern with me where my third or fourth go on a route feels very shabby, but later goes are actually better.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Paul B on June 06, 2016, 01:11:28 pm
I've had this discussion with Mawson before and session fitness is as trainable as anything else. A higher volume in training will allow most to have more good goes per day. Megos is famous for doing huge amounts every day and, lo and behold, can have lots of goes.

Megos is a pro climber (truly pro, he doesn't clean windows or do electrical work that I'm aware of?) who is able to have ridiculous numbers of days on without any kind of life responsibilities getting in the way (he probably will have the same number of days in a month that I get in a full UK limestone season utilising my annual leave); he's not a reasonable indicator for people on this thread. I agree it's trainable (he and others are a reasonable indicator of that!). I don't agree that it's practical to do so for the most part / people (high volume = large time input). Perhaps Snr Barros but see the life comments above.

For me its defo 3 good attempts on top of the warm up bolt to bolt go, then the 4th one will usually be shit. This is the weekend warrior take on it though. Maybe its different for full time uberwads??

What Ted said.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: petejh on June 06, 2016, 01:33:48 pm
3-4 good goes is "the norm", but people seem to think it's some unchangeable law of physiology.

I've had this discussion with Mawson before and session fitness is as trainable as anything else. A higher volume in training will allow most to have more good goes per day. Megos is famous for doing huge amounts every day and, lo and behold, can have lots of goes.

It's also worth noting that most of the 3-4 good goes crowd rarely have that 5th or 6th go. Perhaps they'd surprise themselves? I've noticed a common pattern with me where my third or fourth go on a route feels very shabby, but later goes are actually better.

Worth noting that it's 8 goes at two grades below Megos's current max. Not 8 goes at his max - would he still get 8 good goes on a 9b? If your missus gets 8 good goes at her proj she could maybe try something harder and have 4.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Stu Littlefair on June 06, 2016, 01:38:47 pm
That's the common argument, and it's bollocks. I think she did predator on her fifth go of the day. At the time she was definitely an 8a climber pushing her limit to the max.

I totally get what PaulB is saying about high volume training days not being ok for everyone, but my second point is so far unanswered. To anyone saying 3-4 good goes is the limit - when was the last time you tried to have 6+ goes on a project?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Paul B on June 06, 2016, 01:47:36 pm
That's the common argument, and it's bollocks. I think she did predator on her fifth go of the day/

and how about something like Comedy? Or something really short and savage?

Quote
I totally get what PaulB is saying about high volume training days not being ok for everyone, but my second point is so far unanswered. To anyone saying 3-4 good goes is the limit - when was the last time you tried to have 6+ goes on a project?

Last year, definitely. They were totally rubbish and my potential injury alarm was going mental (think Saltbeef-itis with a rope)! For the more endurancy type things I managed to haul myself up I was basically treating it like training after I thought RPing had gone for the day. Admittedly I didn't get on much requiring that level of effort so I can't comment further.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: petejh on June 06, 2016, 02:14:07 pm
That's the common argument, and it's bollocks. I think she did predator on her fifth go of the day. At the time she was definitely an 8a climber pushing her limit to the max.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I thought you were talking about 8 goes. Fifth go isn't eighth? It's three less :)
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Doylo on June 06, 2016, 04:43:33 pm
For me if would depend on the length of route. I could have 5/6/7 on shorter stuff but if I get seriously boxed on something long (doesn't happen very often) I'd be in the 3/4 clan. Those without jobs are obviously going to be in the more goes category but agree with Stu most people probably just set a mental limit on number of goes when they could squeeze a few more out. Even if it's just training it's more muscle memory for next time.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: marcpontin on June 06, 2016, 06:05:51 pm
I think most people just can't stand the boredom of resting long enough to recover for the 5-6 attempt.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Nibile on June 06, 2016, 06:44:10 pm
Either in training or in real climbing, I never have enough time to have many goes.
On my board, if redpointing a project, I have a maximum of four goes.
On rock I don't know anymore, but in recent times on the ultra rare occasions that see me in the great outdoors, I have taken the rather good habit of climbing things fast. Which feels bloody good.
Main problem for having many goes is often skin.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: cowboyhat on June 06, 2016, 06:49:04 pm
At this point in the thread I think we'd all like to know how many goes during the average redpointing session Simon usually has on the Oak...?
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Nibile on June 06, 2016, 07:03:05 pm
At this point in the thread I think we'd all like to know how many goes during the average redpointing session Simon usually has on the Oak...?
Power Club.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: tomtom on June 06, 2016, 07:34:15 pm
At this point in the thread I think we'd all like to know how many goes during the average redpointing session Simon usually has on the Oak...?
Power Club.
4.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Doylo on June 06, 2016, 07:59:50 pm
It's high time the Oak was addressed in this thread .
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: jfdm on June 06, 2016, 10:00:21 pm
Having a ganders on Vimeo and came across this.
Posted a few weeks ago.
No sound unfortunately.
https://vimeo.com/166856539 (https://vimeo.com/166856539)
Alex M's on fire, no surprise that he got up Hubble and the like, in next to no time.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Oldmanmatt on June 07, 2016, 08:29:55 am
It's high time the Oak was addressed in this thread .

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160607/e6cce28b3b70d0051c97684b060cede6.jpg)


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: a dense loner on June 07, 2016, 04:49:34 pm
Does anyone know if megos has done Hubble? I've just read six pages about how many redpoint goes to have on a project. Has there been a consensus yet?
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: petejh on June 07, 2016, 04:57:09 pm
8
(c+)
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: bendavison on June 07, 2016, 05:41:03 pm
Are people really surprised that Megos can have 8 goes on Northern Lights in a day? 7 of those falling after 4 or 5 clips? I saw him have a few goes, and it looked to me like he was falling because it was a low percentage move, not because he was gassed. Hopefully someone who's been on it can clarify, but I've heard it's pretty constant 7C bouldering. I would expect an 8c+/9a climber to be able to train on sets of 7C boulder problems. Hardly surprising that a 9b climber can do it and have some left for something at his onsight max...
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: ghisino on June 07, 2016, 06:25:42 pm
Are people really surprised that Megos can have 8 goes on Northern Lights in a day? 7 of those falling after 4 or 5 clips?

that's a relevant detail.

and the fact he's basically one grade stronger than the route - many seem to forget about this?

i can see myself have 8 goes in similar fashion on a short 7c+ with an odd low percentage crux, my current record being 8a+.
Things will be much different on a route at/above my limit, regardless of how soon i fall off.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: bendavison on June 07, 2016, 07:08:29 pm
Also, Stu made an interesting point after Megos did it - It still took Megos 2 sessions, with a couple working goes and redpoints in the first (in the bitter cold) and 8 redpoints the next. Stu couldn't think of any routes two grades below his max, or at his onsight max, that would take so long. Does climbing change qualitatively at the higher grades?
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: a dense loner on June 07, 2016, 07:43:35 pm
Are you being serious? Stu could Boulder 8a+ and I'm quite sure I could take him to quite a few 7b's that he'd probably never do. I know we're talking about routes but get a fucking grip
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Stu Littlefair on June 08, 2016, 12:38:50 am
I'm being serious.

1) routes are not Boulder problems. I can't think of a single 8a+ that would take me 8 redpoints.

2) where are these 7bs, you fucker. I'll roast them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: a dense loner on June 08, 2016, 08:03:02 am
So you're telling me that you'd be able to do any given 8a+ in a day? I've never heard anything as ridiculous or arrogant. I take it that's your onsight max you're going for and not claiming to do any given 8c in a day as well, which is 2 grades below your max.
We'll move away from the machine that is Stu for a minute, is there anyone else who thinks they'd be able to do this?
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: jwi on June 08, 2016, 08:36:51 am
I'm pretty sure that there are some 7c+'s in Verdon that I could never do in this lifetime.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: ghisino on June 08, 2016, 08:54:02 am
I'm pretty sure that there are some 7c+'s in Verdon that I could never do in this lifetime.

Or in buoux.

Ah, buoux: On the same trip i've done r黐e de papillon as my 3rd 8a ever, and spent a whole day trying fissure serge, always falling at the top with a low percentage beta...several time very close including the last attempt of the day. I must have had almost 10 attempts and any one of them could have been the one...
 
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: jwi on June 08, 2016, 09:12:46 am
If there's a high percentage method on the last hard move of Fissure Serge (for anyone < 190 cm), I'm all ears.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: shark on June 08, 2016, 09:15:40 am
We'll move away from the machine that is Stu for a minute

Lets not. Name the 7b's.

Good to see Stu motivated again.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: dave on June 08, 2016, 09:28:14 am
I bet Megos would have put a hefty stack of Deutschemarks on pissing any given grit 8a on a cold december day.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: tomtom on June 08, 2016, 09:38:24 am
I bet Megos would have put a hefty stack of Deutschemarks on pissing any given grit 8a on a cold december day.

He must have demanded a good few 」」 to fluff his lines on the Joker then? ;)
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: dave on June 08, 2016, 09:50:17 am
Climbing's first example of spotfixing? I have not heard any reports of irregular gambling patterns.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Paul B on June 08, 2016, 09:51:02 am
I'm pretty sure that there are some 7c+'s in Verdon that I could never do in this lifetime.

Exactly. The above, as I pointed out to Ben on FB is a blinkered view on sport climbing IMO (there are some Old Skool FHard routes in the Gorge and other places!) and IF like Ben's original post and you/he were talking about RP then I simply point you towards the work of Markus Bock (let alone the harder things at Buoux).
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: tomtom on June 08, 2016, 10:00:41 am
Climbing's first example of spotfixing? I have not heard any reports of irregular gambling patterns.

Thats why Shark has given up on the Oak this summer - too many irregular bets placed after his 'i'm close' Jihad video..
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Will Hunt on June 08, 2016, 11:01:13 am
Back to Stu.
What are the reachiest, most lank dependent 7Bs we can think of? Pebble Wall Eliminate thing at Almscliff must be a good start but may actually oddly favour those who are shorter for ease of getting bunched on the undercuts.

Is the 7 Foot Dyno at Pex given 7B?
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: ghisino on June 08, 2016, 12:08:52 pm
If there's a high percentage method on the last hard move of Fissure Serge (for anyone < 190 cm), I'm all ears.

i remember something involving a shitty mono intermediate, getting the feet a bit higher, and slapping at the scoop when you are already really high.
It works if you feel strong on the mono and you can lockoff the right hand hold really really low.

i was dynoing to the scoop from the last decent holds, which feels much easier in isolation.

a strong and short friend (165cm) having tried both betas, felt that the dyno would be an easier boulder problem but is indeed very low percentage, while the intermediate/semistatic method is noticeably harder, but 100% sure to go if you can do it. He did the route with the mono method and looked totally in control.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Stu Littlefair on June 09, 2016, 12:07:28 pm
So you're telling me that you'd be able to do any given 8a+ in a day? I've never heard anything as ridiculous or arrogant.

Or, you could read what I wrote? I "can't think" of any 8a+ which would take me 8 goes. I'm sure if UKB racks their brains they might think of one and it will probably be a slab, or stupidly reachy*.

Yes, this is my onsight max*. You might think it's ridiculous or arrogant, but simple facts back me up: I've climbed a lot of 8a+s on a range of angles and rock types. The last time I can remember one taking me more than 3-4 goes is around 10 years ago, when my onsight max was ~7c+/8a.

*Let's not forget, the reason I mentioned this to Ben was that, based on my own experience, I was mildly surprised that Alex took 8 goes and 2 days on a route at his max onsight level. So if UKB can find some verdon horrorshow I can't redpoint then chapeaux to the hive mind, but it's hardly surprising or relevant. Northern Lights is not a slab, or a ludicrously reachy trick move. Having thought about it, the reason is clearly that Alex's best onsight is 2 grades below his best redpoint, whilst mine is 6.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: IanP on June 09, 2016, 01:30:57 pm
Having thought about it, the reason is clearly that Alex's best onsight is 2 grades below his best redpoint, whilst mine is 6.

Particularly since 9a possibly isn't his 'onsight level' in the terms of something he can do with any regularity/confidence.  He only on sighted his first 8c+ at the end of last year more than 2 years after his 9a onsight.

'Megos also made lightening fast work of Victimes del Passat at the Catalonian crag to finally onsight his first 8c+. Two and a half years after making the groundbreaking world's first 9a on-sight - Estado Critico at Siurana - and skipping both 8c and 8c+ onsights in the process, Megos has now added this degree of difficulty to his list of achievements.'


 
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: tomtom on June 10, 2016, 07:09:41 pm
Apparently Megos is at the cave - reading between the lines of Doylo's tweet...
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: a dense loner on June 10, 2016, 07:21:39 pm
I even hear he might eat over that way tonight!
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Oldmanmatt on June 10, 2016, 07:27:58 pm
Rarebit?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Three Nine on June 10, 2016, 07:56:56 pm
So you're telling me that you'd be able to do any given 8a+ in a day? I've never heard anything as ridiculous or arrogant.

Or, you could read what I wrote? I "can't think" of any 8a+ which would take me 8 goes. I'm sure if UKB racks their brains they might think of one and it will probably be a slab, or stupidly reachy*.

Yes, this is my onsight max*. You might think it's ridiculous or arrogant, but simple facts back me up: I've climbed a lot of 8a+s on a range of angles and rock types. The last time I can remember one taking me more than 3-4 goes is around 10 years ago, when my onsight max was ~7c+/8a.

*Let's not forget, the reason I mentioned this to Ben was that, based on my own experience, I was mildly surprised that Alex took 8 goes and 2 days on a route at his max onsight level. So if UKB can find some verdon horrorshow I can't redpoint then chapeaux to the hive mind, but it's hardly surprising or relevant. Northern Lights is not a slab, or a ludicrously reachy trick move. Having thought about it, the reason is clearly that Alex's best onsight is 2 grades below his best redpoint, whilst mine is 6.

you told me you failed on Supercool, and that's 8a+ going on 8a
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Wood FT on June 10, 2016, 08:42:24 pm
So you're telling me that you'd be able to do any given 8a+ in a day? I've never heard anything as ridiculous or arrogant.

Or, you could read what I wrote? I "can't think" of any 8a+ which would take me 8 goes. I'm sure if UKB racks their brains they might think of one and it will probably be a slab, or stupidly reachy*.

Yes, this is my onsight max*. You might think it's ridiculous or arrogant, but simple facts back me up: I've climbed a lot of 8a+s on a range of angles and rock types. The last time I can remember one taking me more than 3-4 goes is around 10 years ago, when my onsight max was ~7c+/8a.

*Let's not forget, the reason I mentioned this to Ben was that, based on my own experience, I was mildly surprised that Alex took 8 goes and 2 days on a route at his max onsight level. So if UKB can find some verdon horrorshow I can't redpoint then chapeaux to the hive mind, but it's hardly surprising or relevant. Northern Lights is not a slab, or a ludicrously reachy trick move. Having thought about it, the reason is clearly that Alex's best onsight is 2 grades below his best redpoint, whilst mine is 6.

you told me you failed on Supercool, and that's 8a+ going on 8a

bollocks
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Stu Littlefair on June 10, 2016, 08:52:11 pm
True that, well remembered. But I only had three goes. Also, if you remember it was my first week climbing after three months off with injury!

The "when fit" was hopefully implicit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Three Nine on June 10, 2016, 09:02:40 pm
Last Crusade at Dulas?
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Three Nine on June 10, 2016, 09:04:25 pm
as i'm sure you're aware, i'm only listing these in the interests of being a dick - not to make a point about Megos and Hubble
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Doylo on June 10, 2016, 09:33:05 pm
Just got in from the Megos show in the Cave. Fairly shocking , definitely the strongest blonde German I've ever seen. He started out in the Pass today, did Pools of Bethesda then the sit Malcs Start, 8b. In the Cave he did Directors Cut (sans kneebars) 8b, the 2nd ascent of East Coker 8b and finished off with Louis Armstrong 8b. Total animal, never seen the like. It was obviously all so far beneath him.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: haydn jones on June 10, 2016, 09:51:07 pm
4 8B's in a sesh. Not that bad.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Stu Littlefair on June 10, 2016, 09:54:58 pm
[emoji50]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Richie Crouch on June 10, 2016, 10:12:15 pm
 :o :bow:
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Nibile on June 11, 2016, 01:33:18 am
Jesuschrist.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: TheTwig on June 11, 2016, 01:52:24 am
Someone change the thread to Megoswod?

that really is insane!
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: monkey boy on June 11, 2016, 06:40:17 am
And conditions were far from ideal as you can imagine! He had to dry the whole of Louis Armstrong!
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Doylo on June 11, 2016, 10:41:43 am
It's impressive to do that to the Cave, I've seen beasts in there before and they don't usually destroy the place as it takes a while to learn and there are lots of tricks. Didn't matter to Megos though, another level. Plus Directors and East Coker are hard 8b (and maybe Malcs??).
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: a dense loner on June 11, 2016, 11:52:41 am
Makes a difference from last time he went to the cave when you said he was shit :P
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Doylo on June 11, 2016, 12:40:11 pm
Never said that. He didn't try anything hard last time .
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: a dense loner on June 11, 2016, 02:19:37 pm
Liar!
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Doylo on June 11, 2016, 02:50:44 pm
Pete Robins reports that he's just done Louis Armstrong into Trigger Cut, 8B+ FA.
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: haydn jones on June 11, 2016, 03:11:05 pm
Change the thread to megoswad!
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Andy F V2.0 on June 11, 2016, 03:34:49 pm
What are the tides like at the moment? Any chance he'll get downstairs?
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: Duma on June 11, 2016, 03:44:22 pm
What AF2 said. Is it peeing it down in N Wales or something? How come he's in the cave instead of on liquid etct, or up in ogwen on Isles of Wonder and that other 8B Robins did?
Title: Re: Megos does Hubble
Post by: fried on June 11, 2016, 04:08:33 pm
What AF2 said. Is it peeing it down in N Wales or something? How come he's in the cave instead of on liquid etct, or up in ogwen on Isles of Wonder and that other 8B Robins did?

Kidnapping?
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Doylo on June 11, 2016, 04:17:22 pm
The weathers been vile, humid haze over the land. Glad no one took him downstairs in this. Finished off with another 8B Dernier Atrocitie. So 5 8Bs and a 8B+ FA in 2 days. Think he's leaving UK tomoz.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: haydn jones on June 11, 2016, 04:19:33 pm
So is he having another sesh tmrw morning or is that the megos show over :(
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Doylo on June 11, 2016, 09:28:19 pm
http://youtu.be/5YJh5ZRHg58 (http://youtu.be/5YJh5ZRHg58)
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: ashtond6 on June 12, 2016, 01:32:46 am
Wow looks about 6C
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: a dense loner on June 12, 2016, 05:26:40 pm
Never mind the cave power endurance nonsense monkey boys just reported that Alex did perky pinky and milk it in a few goes each! :'( :strongbench:
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: joble on June 12, 2016, 05:33:58 pm
Was unreal to watch.  First time I've seen someone that strong climb, totally amazing to see.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: rjtrials on June 13, 2016, 05:46:52 pm
Never mind the cave power endurance nonsense monkey boys just reported that Alex did perky pinky and milk it in a few goes each! :'( :strongbench:

Is there video of this?  would love to see it
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: TheTwig on June 14, 2016, 03:48:13 am
what's pinky perky / milk it? Google was most unhelpful..
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: dave k on June 14, 2016, 05:38:12 am
what's pinky perky / milk it? Google was most unhelpful..

Old school School Room problems I believe. Pinky Perky was mentioned in One Summer I think as the hardest problem in the world. (That last bit could be complete fiction on my part)
Title: temp topic
Post by: slackline on June 14, 2016, 08:22:33 pm
https://vimeo.com/169306583
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: fatneck on June 15, 2016, 12:49:01 pm
https://www.instagram.com/p/BGoSc7hyGw9/?taken-by=alexandermegos

Didn't Simpson do Pinky Perky?  :worms:
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Eddies on June 15, 2016, 12:51:47 pm
FFA  ;)
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Will Hunt on June 17, 2016, 01:25:32 pm
https://www.instagram.com/p/BGoSc7hyGw9/?taken-by=alexandermegos

Didn't Simpson do Pinky Perky?  :worms:


Quote from: from instagram
#malcolmsmith

 8)
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: petejh on June 19, 2016, 09:10:58 am
Shark been at the vodka again?
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: habrich on August 01, 2016, 05:29:39 pm
http://gripped.com/news/alex-megos-climbs-new-5-14d-acephale/

On the last day of July, he sent a four-year-old project at Acephale bolted by Evan Hau and called it Full Nelson 5.14d in three tries. Before sending the project, Megos sent Bunda de Fora 5.14d in three tries and made the third ascent of Kinder Surprise 5.14c in two tries. After the day, Trotter said, 滴uge Congratulations to Alex Megos for what is unquestionably the most outrageous day of sport climbing in Canadian history.

Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: habrich on August 15, 2016, 05:10:11 pm
And:

http://gripped.com/news/alex-megos-climbs-canadas-first-5-15-fightclub/

Alex Megos has sent Canada痴 first 5.15 at Ravens Crag above the town of Banff and called it Fightclub. The north-facing wall has a number of steep 5.12s and 5.13s, but the real gem is a striking prow that rises above the forest. The route had been known as the 菟row project for over 20 years.  ... Megos said it is as hard as First Round, First Minute 5.15b.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Kingy on August 17, 2016, 09:27:03 pm
Alex has flashed The Path, a 5.14a at Lake Louise or 8b+.  :o From his Crackbook page:

"BトトトM!!! 2 days after doing the FA of "Fightclub" I managed to FLASH the @sonnietrotter classic trad route "The Path" 5.14R at Lake Louise! 40m of fiddling in tiny gear and with a bunch of bouldery sections! Going group up not having at all much experience with placing gear was an interesting and new experience for me!"

I guess that might be an E10 flash, at least an E9 although I'm no tradster  :smirk: :smirk:
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: galpinos on August 17, 2016, 10:14:00 pm
Alex has flashed The Path, a 5.14a at Lake Louise or 8b+.  :o From his Crackbook page:

"BトトトM!!! 2 days after doing the FA of "Fightclub" I managed to FLASH the @sonnietrotter classic trad route "The Path" 5.14R at Lake Louise! 40m of fiddling in tiny gear and with a bunch of bouldery sections! Going group up not having at all much experience with placing gear was an interesting and new experience for me!"

Is the the route that Tim Emmett has been repeatedly posting about?

I guess that might be an E10 flash, at least an E9 although I'm no tradster  :smirk: :smirk:

Really? http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=16268
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Duncan campbell on August 17, 2016, 11:24:01 pm
Flipping awesome!! Really hope there is some footage of this!

 :punk:  :bow:



Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Kingy on August 18, 2016, 08:37:08 am
Alex has flashed The Path, a 5.14a at Lake Louise or 8b+.  :o From his Crackbook page:

"BトトトM!!! 2 days after doing the FA of "Fightclub" I managed to FLASH the @sonnietrotter classic trad route "The Path" 5.14R at Lake Louise! 40m of fiddling in tiny gear and with a bunch of bouldery sections! Going group up not having at all much experience with placing gear was an interesting and new experience for me!"

Is the the route that Tim Emmett has been repeatedly posting about?

Yes that's right. Haha, you got me there! I have been known to wobble up the odd HVS... ;)

I guess that might be an E10 flash, at least an E9 although I'm no tradster  :smirk: :smirk:

Really? http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=16268
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: lukeyboy on August 28, 2016, 09:48:44 am
https://www.instagram.com/p/BJo_ulbhdg9/

Dream catcher in a day! :bow:
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Doylo on August 28, 2016, 11:51:59 am
So Hubble took him longer than Action Directe, Biographie and Dreamcatcher and it's still 8c+.  :tease:
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Luke Owens on September 02, 2016, 11:34:57 pm
https://vimeo.com/180455358
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: kelvin on September 03, 2016, 07:22:10 am
That start...
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: nash1 on September 03, 2016, 10:38:14 am
Has the crack to the right of the start seen any attention, cool line but looks hard!!
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: habrich on September 03, 2016, 05:29:29 pm
Has the crack to the right of the start seen any attention, cool line but looks hard!!

I don't think so. As far as I remember when I was last there, there is no chalk on it. Dreamcatcher is right in the middle of one of the most popular bouldering areas in North America so there are no shortage of eyes examining every unclimbed slice of rock. Tim Clifford's still unrepeated Singularity is actually on a boulder just under there also.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Duma on September 03, 2016, 07:00:31 pm
Has the crack to the right of the start seen any attention, cool line but looks hard!!

I don't think so. As far as I remember when I was last there, there is no chalk on it. Dreamcatcher is right in the middle of one of the most popular bouldering areas in North America so there are no shortage of eyes examining every unclimbed slice of rock. Tim Clifford's still unrepeated Singularity is actually on a boulder just under there also.

Did Alex try it do you know? (Singularity that is)
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: habrich on September 05, 2016, 03:55:47 am
Has the crack to the right of the start seen any attention, cool line but looks hard!!

I don't think so. As far as I remember when I was last there, there is no chalk on it. Dreamcatcher is right in the middle of one of the most popular bouldering areas in North America so there are no shortage of eyes examining every unclimbed slice of rock. Tim Clifford's still unrepeated Singularity is actually on a boulder just under there also.

Did Alex try it do you know? (Singularity that is)

No, I don't know. I doubt it, as I believe it is perceived as very condition dependent and it is still sweaty summer here.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: jfdm on September 14, 2016, 06:50:31 am
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=E2DO-Vhajck (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=E2DO-Vhajck)

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pXjWZeIx-yc (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pXjWZeIx-yc)

Eric Karlsson's YouTube channel is a lot of fun for lovers of plastic.
Here Eric and his mates meet up with Alex M.
Highball top out fun, as usual AM makes it look easy as he climbs higher.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: jfdm on September 15, 2016, 08:19:48 pm
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=EgT9Wnzu8dw (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=EgT9Wnzu8dw)
Alex working a hard problem.
Ouch those holds are tiny and sharp.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: remus on October 04, 2016, 08:05:00 pm
Word on the street is that Megos did Ondra's Los Revolucionarios, 9a on Kalymnos second go some times last week. Apparently he then warmed down with a handful of stuff in the 8b-8c range, but that's old hat.

source: friend who was at the crag with him.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: standard on October 04, 2016, 09:54:34 pm
He did it 2 years ago.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: remus on October 04, 2016, 09:58:38 pm
So he did. Hard life when 9a, 8c and 8b in a day is old news.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Rocksteady on October 06, 2016, 11:42:06 am
Word on the street is that Megos did Ondra's Los Revolucionarios, 9a on Kalymnos second go some times last week. Apparently he then warmed down with a handful of stuff in the 8b-8c range, but that's old hat.

source: friend who was at the crag with him.

I was at the crag with him that day too. He had done Los Revolucionarios 2nd go before. He was just repeating it for fun. I have to say I was pretty much overawed with how easily he walked up it as a repeat. He'd put the clips in the day before. On the day he just did it. I didn't particularly notice him warming up even. He made a small noise like he was trying a bit once. People stopped watching him as he made it look so trivial. Also crushed the 8c+ next to it (Gora Gora Gutarak I think) in similarly casual fashion the next day. Just looked so easy for him, way way below his limit.

I didn't see but he also did an 8a in his flipflops as a random challenge!
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: jwi on October 15, 2016, 07:06:31 am
Alex Megos just did the first ascent of 鉄upercrackinette, an old project in St. L馮er, at 9a+.

Source Pierre D駘as /Fanatic climbing (http://"http://www.facebook.com/fanatic.climbing/posts/1674403396203516")
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Duma on October 30, 2016, 08:09:53 pm
https://www.instagram.com/p/BMMipfgjdEC/
He's done the Trainspotting project at Gothenburg, 8B+ apparently, seems pretty mild for something well known and amazing looking.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Coops_13 on October 30, 2016, 08:11:55 pm
Looks like grit
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Duma on November 11, 2016, 09:40:43 pm
It seems from Instagash he's in the peak - Anyone know what he's been on?
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: tomtom on November 12, 2016, 07:07:51 am
 Surprise entry to Battle of Britain?
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: monkey boy on November 12, 2016, 08:39:10 am
It seems from Instagash he's in the peak - Anyone know what he's been on?

He's over for Kendal next week but just came early to train and hang out.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: tomtom on November 12, 2016, 04:49:10 pm
Surprise entry to Battle of Britain?

Should have picked some lottery numbers too...

https://twitter.com/depotmanchester/status/797414312470056960

Nice photobomb by Dobbin there... :)
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: andy_e on November 13, 2016, 09:57:51 am
I heard he was over to settle a certain score with his wildcard nemesis.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: jwi on June 21, 2017, 09:28:33 am
C鵈se's Jungle Boogie, 9a+, in three tries.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: teapot on June 21, 2017, 11:07:21 am
C鵈se's Jungle Boogie, 9a+, in three tries.

Ondra did the FA in 2012 and I thought it was three days, not 3 tries. Or has someone else done it in three tries?
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: teapot on June 21, 2017, 11:09:35 am
C鵈se's Jungle Boogie, 9a+, in three tries.

Ondra did the FA in 2012 and I thought it was three days, not 3 tries. Or has someone else done it in three tries?

Doh! This is Megoswad thread! I understand now. Just a bit slow today
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Duma on July 23, 2017, 05:36:12 am
 he's repeated the Finnish Line https://www.instagram.com/p/BW2wbGKBDQq/

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: finbarrr on July 23, 2017, 07:14:18 am
is that the longest he has ever spent on any rock climb?
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: JackPal on July 23, 2017, 08:57:08 am
is that the longest he has ever spent on any rock climb?



Lucid dreaming took him 11 days, in the video of it he says that was his longest project with the second longest he'd spent being 6 days. Will be good viewing when he gets drawn in by something even harder.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: dave on July 23, 2017, 09:50:03 am
I think he's on 3 days and counting for The Joker.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: b3n99 on July 25, 2017, 07:17:04 pm
Having stood underneath the 'Finnish Line' a few weeks back I'm seriously impressed at this. Top class from Nalle to have the vision to do something so mind bending in the first place but also fairplay to Megos for having the giant Kahunas needed to go and try such a line!

P.S. I am yet to see a picture which even half does the line some justice yet. Think Careless Torque at 30 degrees overhanging with another 2 metres added on the top and a total dogshit, slopping tree platform landing. Only thing I've ever seen which I literally cant comprehend anyone climbing!
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: remus on July 28, 2017, 08:17:49 am
Yeah it's a seriously impressive piece of rock! I'm a bit disappointed nobodies taken a more landscape-y shot of it because it's hugely aesthetic.

This is a shitty shot I got whip wandering around looking at other stuff, it starts just behind the tree  https://imgur.com/gallery/nVSvf
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: SA Chris on August 03, 2017, 12:58:57 pm
http://www.climbing.co.za/2017/08/alexander-megos-sends-a-life-in-the-orange-at-boven/

SA sends. Superbowl is such a great piece of rock.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: jwi on September 09, 2017, 10:37:08 am
Twelve routes 8c or harder in 8 days (and two 8b+ and a training session indoors apparently). Among them four 9as: Speed Integral, Im Reich des Shogun, Coup de Grace and Sid Lives.

Eric Talmadge worked Im Reich des Shogun took on and off for thirteen years before climbing it in year 2000, since then it's only been repeated by Adam Ondra and now Alex Megos.

https://planetgrimpe.com/2017/09/une-semaine-de-folie-pour-alex-megos/
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: jwi on November 03, 2017, 09:54:25 am
8c+ flash, is that news nowadays?

According to Fanatic Climbing, Megos flashed Capricorn, the hardest route at Leonidas. Capricorn is a 12 meters Killian Fischhuber route originally graded 9a but recently downgraded to 8c+ when a better method was found.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: remus on April 19, 2018, 09:25:32 pm
He's nipped in for a quick repeat of Era Vella according to fanatic climbing on facebook.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: andy popp on May 09, 2018, 05:35:01 pm
Has done Perfecto Mundo, Margalef mega project.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Coops_13 on May 09, 2018, 09:16:31 pm
What a hero
https://instagram.com/p/BikRmNwH28F/
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: jwi on May 09, 2018, 11:07:09 pm
Today? It's warm, humid and no wind. Far from perfect conditions.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: jwi on May 09, 2018, 11:42:44 pm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXnJo_BaZ-s
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on May 11, 2018, 04:03:40 am
Nice vid.

And there was me, all the way through that endless shakeout, thinking, was that a bit of tension @1.35? - which seemed to become increasingly irrelevant.. until.. doh!  :slap:

 ;D
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Rocksteady on May 11, 2018, 09:54:56 am
The moves on that look incredible.

Megos always looks like he finds himself so light. He almost floats up half the time.

Anyone know how long this took him? Quickest ascent of a 9b+?
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Doylo on May 11, 2018, 10:19:07 am
The moves on that look incredible.

Megos always looks like he finds himself so light. He almost floats up half the time.

Anyone know how long this took him? Quickest ascent of a 9b+?

Yes. 15 days I think.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: jwi on May 11, 2018, 10:37:24 am
Scary strong on pockets. I hope he has saved some 9a+s in Margalef for onsight attempts.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: SA Chris on May 11, 2018, 01:57:30 pm

(https://memegenerator.net/img/instances/80700556/perfectamundo.jpg)
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Fiend on May 11, 2018, 10:48:23 pm
He joins the club! That overhang is a shocking place.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: gme on June 11, 2018, 04:30:22 pm
The boy has a weakness. Very excited about going to a Taylor Swift concert.
Maybe his route is only 9b.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: rosmat on June 11, 2018, 09:50:18 pm
9a+ max after admitting that shit.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: jwi on August 06, 2020, 07:28:52 am
According to Le Crux - Pizzas - C鵈se, Megos has done the Bibliographie project in C鵈se. Bolted by Ethan Pringle and widely believed to be 9b+ or c.

Link (https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=133706385069549&id=111921283914726)

(http://lizardclimbing.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/IMG_4217.jpg)

pic stolen from http://lizardclimbing.com
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Wood FT on August 06, 2020, 07:40:25 am
Just seen an Instagram story from some french climbers at the cliff confirming the above. Awesome news!
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: spidermonkey09 on August 06, 2020, 07:57:24 am
Brilliant news. Hopefully the name stays. Reading your initial post I thought the restaurant name was what he'd named the route!
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Fiend on August 06, 2020, 08:03:34 am
 :o bon effort! Also that's a shit load of pizzas he's celebrating with.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: teestub on August 06, 2020, 08:04:53 am
He値l probably call it Das Pumpenhausen Testpiece II
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Duma on August 06, 2020, 08:23:20 am
Excellent, C鵈se really does look stunning! And also brilliant to get the news via the pizza van!
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: jwi on August 06, 2020, 08:29:14 am
Excellent, C鵈se really does look stunning! And also brilliant to get the news via the pizza van!

The pizza-chef is Laurent Girousse who also wrote the guidebook and have bolted and rebolted many routes.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Duma on August 06, 2020, 08:56:06 am
Ah cheers jwi. Still feels more wholesome than IG.
Little bit of detail on the route here:
https://www.grimper.com/news-alex-megos-enchaine-potentiel-9c-ceuse
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: moose on August 06, 2020, 09:03:01 am
Google translate of the Grimper article

Yesterday, in the evening, Alex Megos went to the pizzeria "Le Crux" in C鵈se to buy food and to celebrate a historic cross that could perhaps claim the title of the hardest path in the world: "Bibliography" . Nothing official yet for the quotation, and an uncertainty remains between the 9b and the 9c before any announcement of the principal concerned, even if, according to the rumors, the 9c is the preferred track.

He had been trying this route for several years. It is just to the right of the mythical 9a + "Biography" that the German climber repeated in just 4 climbs in 2014. "Bibliography" is divided into three very distinct sections: an 8c approach which leads to a hanging rest on two good holds , then an 8B boulder on which you have to engage in a 9a + of pure resistance which goes up the huge belly until the wall straightens, for a total effort of about 35m.

At the end of 2019, Alex Megos released a new Patagonia collaboration film: Rotpunkt. Magnificent images especially with his first and unique 9b +: "Perfecto Mondo" at Margalef. But also, with the first images of "Bibliography", which cost him an incomparably greater investment. We will therefore know very soon, and will not fail to let you know, if "Bibliography" becomes the second proposition in 9c in history after the famous "Silence" of Adam Ondra. More info to follow
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: spidermonkey09 on August 06, 2020, 09:11:00 am
Over 40 days at the time of the Patagucci filming so must be approaching 50 days of effort. Mark Leach sieging energy  :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: spidermonkey09 on August 06, 2020, 09:13:36 am
an 8c approach

The walk in does indeed feel about 8c in 30 degrees.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: jwi on August 06, 2020, 09:34:18 am
Google translate of the Grimper article

Yesterday, in the evening, Alex Megos went to the pizzeria "Le Crux" in C鵈se to buy food and to celebrate a historic cross tick that could perhaps claim the title of the hardest path route in the world: "Bibliography" . Nothing official yet for the quotation grade, and an uncertainty remains between the 9b 9b+ and the 9c before prior to any announcement of from the principal concerned protagonist, even if, according to the rumors, the 9c is the preferred track where it most likely ends up.

He had been trying this route for several years. It is just to the right of the mythical 9a + "Biography" that the German climber repeated in just 4 climbs tie-ins in 2014. "Bibliography" is divided into three very distinct sections: an 8c approach which leads to a hanging rest on two good holds , then an 8B boulder on [top of] which you have to engage in a 9a+ of pure resistance power-endurance which goes up the huge belly until the wall straightens, for a total effort of about 35m.

At the end of 2019, Alex Megos released a new Patagonia collaboration film: Rotpunkt. Magnificent images especially with his first and unique 9b +: "Perfecto Mondo" at Margalef. But also, with the first images of "Bibliography", which cost him an incomparably greater investment. We will therefore know very soon, and will not fail to let you know, if "Bibliography" becomes the second proposition suggested in 9c in history after the famous "Silence" of Adam Ondra. More info to follow
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: jwi on August 06, 2020, 09:36:26 am
Over 40 days at the time of the Patagucci filming so must be approaching 50 days of effort. Mark Leach sieging energy  :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:

Pretty sure that he had more than ten days on it this summer ...

We saw him fall very very high on it a few days ago.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: SA Chris on August 06, 2020, 09:37:38 am
an uncertainty remains between the 9b and the 9c

9b+ then.

And agree the walk in is about 8c.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: jwi on August 06, 2020, 09:43:28 am
an uncertainty remains between the 9b and the 9c

9b+ then.

And agree the walk in is about 8c.

Never trust a bilingual dictionary, and never-ever trust machine translation.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: spidermonkey09 on August 06, 2020, 09:58:06 am
Has to be 9c or the Megos grade calculator is broken. 14 days to do Perfecto Mundo and 50+ days to do this suggests this is 9c, or Perfecto is 9b...
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: jwi on August 06, 2020, 10:05:02 am
C鵈se is harder than Margalef. This is not new?
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Fiend on August 06, 2020, 10:09:09 am
Could be a difference in styles, difference in other factors like walk-ins, conditions, etc etc. Perfecto could be soft / standard 9b+, this thing hard / top-end 9b+.... #armchairgradedebate
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: spidermonkey09 on August 06, 2020, 10:30:21 am
C鵈se is harder than Margalef. This is not new?

Harder than most places!
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: gme on August 06, 2020, 03:42:11 pm
C鵈se is harder than Margalef. This is not new?



Harder than most places!

Great news, great route on a great crag. Ondras 9c looks pretty uninspiring albeit on an amazing crag. This looks like what 9c should look like.

As for the above comment it puts a smile on my face. In a time long ago Ceuse was thought of as a little bit of Spain in France grade wise.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: spidermonkey09 on August 06, 2020, 04:27:58 pm
Was saying the same thing earlier; properly inspirational line, in contrast to Ondras which just looks nails.

Off topic, but the only conclusion to the grades comment is things were wrong a long time ago then! France is tough in general I agree.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Stabbsy on August 06, 2020, 04:35:59 pm
Off topic, but the only conclusion to the grades comment is things were wrong a long time ago then! France is tough in general I agree.
How can French grades be wrong in France?
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: gme on August 06, 2020, 04:40:11 pm
Basically french climbing was Buoux and Verdon. Ceuse was the new boy on the block and if you spent most of your time at the 1st two, as many of us did, Grades at the later seemed like a bargain.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: gme on August 06, 2020, 04:43:37 pm
Anyway back to the news. This looks amazing and being located on one of, if not thee, best piece of rock in the world makes it even more outstanding.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Ged on August 06, 2020, 08:01:15 pm
With the exception of the narly bouldery starts on Berlin Wall, I never thought ceuse was particularly sandbaggy. If anything it's a lot more forgiving than somewhere like rodellar where there's not really anywhere to hide if you haven't got the specific strength and fitness. Ceuse always seemed like hard climbing but good rests.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: remus on August 06, 2020, 11:31:33 pm
Megos has given it 9c (according to his post on IG).
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Fiend on August 07, 2020, 08:39:17 am
9-motherfucking-c!!  :dance1:

Gotta say it looks a bit bland and homogenuous in the photo, typical featureless plod. Where's the V15 crack climbing and kneebars??  ;)
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: tomtom on August 07, 2020, 09:11:02 am
9-motherfucking-c!!  :dance1:

Gotta say it looks a bit bland and homogenuous in the photo, typical featureless plod. Where's the V15 crack climbing and kneebars??  ;)

Thats after the double dyno onto the pink slopey volume :)

Whats wrong with a 9C crimp plod? :D where you start with 20mm edges/crimps and they diminish by 1/2mm and get 2cm further apart as you get higher...

That said I like Ondras Flatanger things where there's all sorts of odd body positions and weird knee shit going on...
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: cheque on August 07, 2020, 11:21:56 am
I壇 love to celebrate this achievement but I致e no idea if Megos eats healthily enough. Does anyone have the details on that?  ;)
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Bradders on August 07, 2020, 11:59:48 am
Great news, great route on a great crag. Ondras 9c looks pretty uninspiring albeit on an amazing crag. This looks like what 9c should look like.

It's not a competition, they're both incredible bits of climbing in their own ways, by two amazing climbers. That said, this made me chuckle:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CDkQy3iDhD_/?igshid=1bsx2okgyxgfp

If I had to put money on it, I reckon Bibliography will be repeated before Silence is.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: spidermonkey09 on August 07, 2020, 12:02:35 pm
Great news, great route on a great crag. Ondras 9c looks pretty uninspiring albeit on an amazing crag. This looks like what 9c should look like.

It's not a competition, they're both incredible bits of climbing in their own ways, by two amazing climbers. That said, this made me chuckle:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CDkQy3iDhD_/?igshid=1bsx2okgyxgfp

If I had to put money on it, I reckon Bibliography will be repeated before Silence is.

No doubt. I'd raise the bet to Ondra repeats Bibliographie before Megos does Silence!
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: tomtom on August 07, 2020, 12:06:34 pm
Great news, great route on a great crag. Ondras 9c looks pretty uninspiring albeit on an amazing crag. This looks like what 9c should look like.

It's not a competition, they're both incredible bits of climbing in their own ways, by two amazing climbers. That said, this made me chuckle:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CDkQy3iDhD_/?igshid=1bsx2okgyxgfp

If I had to put money on it, I reckon Bibliography will be repeated before Silence is.

:D
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: SA Chris on August 07, 2020, 12:44:02 pm
One more thing. It's presently in the 30s in Gap. I know Ceuse is a lot higher and cooler, but still, hardly primo?
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: spidermonkey09 on August 07, 2020, 12:48:14 pm
Pretty normal in that part of France, no? Once the shade hits it gets pretty cool in the shade in my experience and there is often a breeze up at the cliff. No doubt would be better in the autumn but it definitely seems to be viewed as a summer crag by most.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Ged on August 07, 2020, 12:49:58 pm
I think you can still get pretty amazing evening conditions even when it's hot down in the valley.

Must've been a very different experience trying a project like that, basically centre stage at one of the busiest crags out there, compared to ondra working silence in relative peace and quiet.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: SA Chris on August 07, 2020, 12:53:55 pm
Dunno, I spent 3 weeks in july there the year after moving from SA, and it was pretty hot (almost too hot) most days. Guess the sectors I was on didn't overhang by 30 degrees though.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: gme on August 07, 2020, 01:04:26 pm
Great news, great route on a great crag. Ondras 9c looks pretty uninspiring albeit on an amazing crag. This looks like what 9c should look like.

It's not a competition, they're both incredible bits of climbing in their own ways, by two amazing climbers. That said, this made me chuckle:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CDkQy3iDhD_/?igshid=1bsx2okgyxgfp

If I had to put money on it, I reckon Bibliography will be repeated before Silence is.

The climbing on silence looks amazing, more interesting than this I guess, but the line is not great in the flesh, In fact it痴 about the least inspiring one in the cave.

Megos route looks a much more impressive 渡on line.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: gme on August 07, 2020, 01:10:07 pm
Dunno, I spent 3 weeks in july there the year after moving from SA, and it was pretty hot (almost too hot) most days. Guess the sectors I was on didn't overhang by 30 degrees though.
I lived there the summers of 91 and 92 and thought conditions were great on the Berlin/ biography sectors. Cascade more of a winter venue, perfect in the sun other than cornice collapse.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Bradders on August 07, 2020, 01:47:36 pm
Great news, great route on a great crag. Ondras 9c looks pretty uninspiring albeit on an amazing crag. This looks like what 9c should look like.

It's not a competition, they're both incredible bits of climbing in their own ways, by two amazing climbers. That said, this made me chuckle:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CDkQy3iDhD_/?igshid=1bsx2okgyxgfp

If I had to put money on it, I reckon Bibliography will be repeated before Silence is.

The climbing on silence looks amazing, more interesting than this I guess, but the line is not great in the flesh, In fact it痴 about the least inspiring one in the cave.

Megos route looks a much more impressive 渡on line.

Ah okay, yeah I get what you mean. I was thinking about the movement, which on Silence just looks mind boggling whilst Bibliography is much more conventional.

No doubt. I'd raise the bet to Ondra repeats Bibliographie before Megos does Silence!

Yeah, 100%. In fact I'd raise you and bet Megos will never do Silence.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: spidermonkey09 on August 07, 2020, 02:08:04 pm

Yeah, 100%. In fact I'd raise you and bet Megos will never do Silence.

Most likely, although I would love to see him up there grappling with that crack!
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on August 07, 2020, 02:41:33 pm

Yeah, 100%. In fact I'd raise you and bet Megos will never do Silence.

Most likely, although I would love to see him up there grappling with that crack!

I heard silence has been partially ruined due to someone trying to make a replica/mould of it.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Ged on August 07, 2020, 02:44:53 pm
Seriously? Ruined as in left crap on the rock whilst making a mold, or damaged the rock?
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: spidermonkey09 on August 07, 2020, 02:46:19 pm
I've heard that rumour too but I think its bollocks borne of people spaffing on Insta. See this post.

https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/i1p2ds/the_silence_was_not_chipped_or_glued/
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on August 07, 2020, 02:50:34 pm
I've heard that rumour too but I think its bollocks borne of people spaffing on Insta. See this post.

https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/i1p2ds/the_silence_was_not_chipped_or_glued/

If its true that its sorted then fair enough. Not read all the comments to confirm if its fixed and back to original form.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: spidermonkey09 on August 07, 2020, 03:17:18 pm

If its true that its sorted then fair enough. Not read all the comments to confirm if its fixed and back to original form.

Basically it sounds like if Seb had given it a brush there wouldn't have been an issue  :lol:
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on August 07, 2020, 03:23:52 pm

If its true that its sorted then fair enough. Not read all the comments to confirm if its fixed and back to original form.

Basically it sounds like if Seb had given it a brush there wouldn't have been an issue  :lol:

Ive just asked henning 遡eeper of the cave what the score is for definitive answer.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Bradders on August 07, 2020, 03:44:05 pm
Sounds like Pavel Blazek (Ondra's manager?) owned up to it but actually all a bit of a non-issue.

Next level stuff though creating an exact replica of the holds etc. Like those Japanese climbers who made resin copies of the holds on Burden of Dreams. Sounds like something for the thread about the future of climbing; why bother getting on a plane and messing about with conditions when you could rent a warehouse and build an exact replica?

Disclaimer - I can think of many reasons, but still...
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Coops_13 on August 07, 2020, 03:45:09 pm
Dunno, I spent 3 weeks in july there the year after moving from SA, and it was pretty hot (almost too hot) most days. Guess the sectors I was on didn't overhang by 30 degrees though.
I lived there the summers of 91 and 92 and thought conditions were great on the Berlin/ biography sectors. Cascade more of a winter venue, perfect in the sun other than cornice collapse.
Nah it's all good - just have to get up earlier for Cascade
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: teestub on August 07, 2020, 04:08:56 pm

Ive just asked henning 遡eeper of the cave what the score is for definitive answer.

Chris says hi!!
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: cheque on August 07, 2020, 04:20:31 pm
I heard silence has been partially ruined due to someone trying to make a replica/mould of it.

Just another similarity between Silence and Overlapping Wall at Broadbottom Quarry.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on August 07, 2020, 04:27:14 pm
I heard silence has been partially ruined due to someone trying to make a replica/mould of it.

Just another similarity between Silence and Overlapping Wall at Broadbottom Quarry.

 :lol:
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Muenchener on August 07, 2020, 06:16:13 pm
So how does something like this work in terms of project etiquette?

I gather Ethan Pringle bolted it. When he realised it wasn't going to happen, did he bequeath it personally to Alex? Or was it an open project, but the other (two or three) contenders politely stayed away when they got wind that Alex was working it?
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Doylo on August 07, 2020, 06:28:45 pm
I壇 love to celebrate this achievement but I致e no idea if Megos eats healthily enough. Does anyone have the details on that?  ;)

Have you not heard the one about him being carried away from a comp ?(not a joke)
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Bradders on August 07, 2020, 06:32:03 pm
Have you not heard the one about him being carried away from a comp ?(not a joke)

Really? Tell me more.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Doylo on August 07, 2020, 06:33:02 pm
Have you not heard the one about him being carried away from a comp ?(not a joke)

Really? Tell me more.

Just heard he got carried away from a comp cos he had so little energy.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Lopez on August 08, 2020, 05:26:46 am

No doubt. I'd raise the bet to Ondra repeats Bibliographie before Megos does Silence!

Yeah, 100%. In fact I'd raise you and bet Megos will never do Silence.

I'm hoping for some controversy. Ondra climbs Bibliography and downgrades it to 9b/+. Megos goes to Norway in a huff, climbs Silence, and downgrades it to HVS
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: jwi on August 09, 2020, 10:06:32 am
The conditions been pretty horrendous in C鵈se in July, one or two evenings with dry heat and a bit wind when the conditions were good. For the last visit Mr. Megos showed up the first day with reasonable conditions in two weeks, fell at the very last bit. Then we left, so I do not know how the conditions were.

C鵈se starts to be really polished. This summer I repeated some routes I did five years ago and they are definitely harder now (fact! because i do not age...). Some of the 7a-7bs in Demi-Lune are most surely harder than classic 7a-7bs on Escales in Verdon.

Several good climbers (hi Chris+) have said that even Biographie is polished, especially the start, and a lot harder now than ten years ago.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: SA Chris on August 09, 2020, 09:46:42 pm
Things like Medecine Douce and Ananada (easiest warmups in Cascade) were slippery in mid 90s, must be glassy now.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: spidermonkey09 on August 10, 2020, 07:49:24 am
Things like Medecine Douce and Ananada (easiest warmups in Cascade) were slippery in mid 90s, must be glassy now.

Cascade was the worst offender in terms of polish when I was there a few years ago. That said, I didn't think any of it was too bad, there are so many good routes that for every polished one there are 5+ that are fine. Its not Raven Tor quite yet.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: SA Chris on August 10, 2020, 08:58:28 am
True enough, could be memory, one of the first limestone crag I visited. Since then I've climbed at many that are a lot worse!
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: spidermonkey09 on August 12, 2020, 02:03:04 pm
More evidence of the pros using ebikes to good effect to save their energy for the business end...

https://www.climbing.com/news/interview-alex-megos-discusses-the-first-ascent-of-bibliography-9c-5-15d/
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Fiend on August 12, 2020, 02:22:56 pm
Christ. He's dead to me. First e-bike free ascent awaits.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: dunnyg on August 12, 2020, 02:28:17 pm
E-bike rental business, shuttling people from Malham parking to the catwalk. 」15 each way. Both sight see-ers and the redpointers who just need that je ne sais quoi to get the tick.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: webbo on August 12, 2020, 09:17:23 pm
I would have thought given the current economic climate there would be a few out of work peasants who could offer piggybacks or even offer a sedan chair service.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Doylo on August 12, 2020, 09:27:23 pm
Never bolts his own projects and uses electric to get up to the crag. Lazy cunt.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: MischaHY on August 13, 2020, 08:08:41 am
More evidence of the pros using ebikes to good effect to save their energy for the business end...

https://www.climbing.com/news/interview-alex-megos-discusses-the-first-ascent-of-bibliography-9c-5-15d/

I've been wondering about this. Haven't been to Ceuse yet but might be in a few weeks if Catalonia stays off the cards due to the big V.

Me and the girly have e-mtbs (f**k off, they're so much fun) and I was wondering if The Approach could be cheated with them... seems like it's on the cards. Has to be fair game if the Megos is willing to stoop to it...  ;D

Once heard Randall compliment Barrows somewhere about how he saves energy when working a route by getting his belayer to drag him up the crag instead of pulling... Cora's current tactic is to get me to drag her up to the crag so this has to be a better solution  :w00t:
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: tomtom on August 13, 2020, 08:19:02 am
Time to invest in an electric golf caddy to get your clobber to the crag without expending too much energy :D

https://youtu.be/ELSbwzr6J8g
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: MischaHY on August 13, 2020, 08:20:25 am
Time to invest in an electric golf caddy to get your clobber to the crag without expending too much energy :D

https://youtu.be/ELSbwzr6J8g

Ooh now we're talking!
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: tomtom on August 13, 2020, 08:25:16 am
Now this is on the money 😂

https://mysandhopper.com/

https://youtu.be/b_Hnyk_Traw
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: spidermonkey09 on August 13, 2020, 08:25:35 am
The Approach

All joking aside, I've never understood the terror the walk in elicits in people. Its a beautiful walk on a winding track through a forest and is a piece of piss once you've stashed a rope up there. If you're halfway fit it won't be an issue.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: SA Chris on August 13, 2020, 08:29:40 am
Is there still an issue with pikeys (or the local equivalent) going around in the evenings and nicking hidden kit?
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: spidermonkey09 on August 13, 2020, 08:48:20 am
Never heard anything like that. Its not hard to stash your kit somewhere it won't be found in any case.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: MischaHY on August 13, 2020, 08:51:20 am
The Approach

All joking aside, I've never understood the terror the walk in elicits in people. Its a beautiful walk on a winding track through a forest and is a piece of piss once you've stashed a rope up there. If you're halfway fit it won't be an issue.

It is weird how much it gets talked about. I know someone there at the moment who reckons she's knackered by it and she did battle cat in 3 goes. Cora has some kind of exercise induced asthma though so anything that'll spare a bit of panting is good beta tbh.  :)
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: andy popp on August 13, 2020, 09:09:46 am
pikeys

C'mon Chris, I know you wouldn't use other ethnic slurs, this one is not ok either.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: macca7 on August 13, 2020, 09:41:27 am
pikeys

C'mon Chris, I know you wouldn't use other ethnic slurs, this one is not ok either.

But cheating cunts is fine  :-\
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: SA Chris on August 13, 2020, 09:59:39 am
pikeys

C'mon Chris, I know you wouldn't use other ethnic slurs, this one is not ok either.

I sat for about 5 minutes trying to think of a term to use that wasn't offensive, what should I use other than macca's suggestion? It was a known group who were doing it.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: andy popp on August 13, 2020, 11:25:20 am
Thieves? No, I don't like the word Macca quoted either, but I hadn't seen that post.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: rjtrials on August 13, 2020, 12:54:26 pm
On this side of the Atlantic, they call themselves travelers.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: danm on August 13, 2020, 11:15:48 pm
Going back to saving effort on the walk-in, I've heard that due to cuts in BMC staff salaries, Caff is renting out his chopper at a good rate. You heard it here first.

Going back to gypsies and stealing - who could have guessed that being marginalised would taint your relationship with those who marginalise you? We let a gypsy family use a field for their horses and treated them with respect once when I was a kid, despite them having a terrible reputation in our area, and guess what? In return we got nothing but respect, help and honesty back. Weird, huh?
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: Plattsy on August 14, 2020, 10:51:28 am
Going back to saving effort on the walk-in, I've heard that due to cuts in BMC staff salaries, Caff is renting out his chopper at a good rate. You heard it here first.

Going back to gypsies and stealing - who could have guessed that being marginalised would taint your relationship with those who marginalise you? We let a gypsy family use a field for their horses and treated them with respect once when I was a kid, despite them having a terrible reputation in our area, and guess what? In return we got nothing but respect, help and honesty back. Weird, huh?
I would've guessed the responsibility of the marginalisation and the quality of relationship lies somewhere in the middle.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: bigironhorse on August 14, 2020, 10:56:06 am
I heard that Dave Graham used a quad bike to get up there when he did Biographie  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: gme on September 14, 2020, 11:02:58 pm
9a flash today. Not 100% up to speed on these things but don稚 think that many have done this. Him and Ondra?

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CFIbe3YqEfL/?igshid=158jy8aprduj2
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: jwi on September 15, 2020, 06:47:57 am
I do not know of anyone else who have 9a flashes/onsights. How many climbers have onsighted or flashed 8c+ except Megos (a handful), Ondra (twenty or so), Puigblanque(1), Midtb(1) and Usobiaga(1)?
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: HaeMeS on September 15, 2020, 02:19:39 pm
@JWI: Sebastian Halenke (http://fanatic-climbing.com/sebastian-halenke-imperial-au-kronthal-sebastian-halenke-strikes-in-kronthal/ (http://fanatic-climbing.com/sebastian-halenke-imperial-au-kronthal-sebastian-halenke-strikes-in-kronthal/).

Domen Skofic did Mind Control and Nordic Flower, but both have been downgraded. Also happened with Klemen Becan and his Siempre se puede hacer menos FA in Chulilla.
Title: Re: Megoswad
Post by: jwi on September 15, 2020, 04:32:33 pm
yeah, I did know that I did not know about all of them. Mitdb did not do Cosi... when it was actually 8c+, according to a prominent member of the French downgrading mafia... etc... Best to do more than twenty of them....
SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2020, SimplePortal