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Spotting - maybe not (Read 5943 times)

slackline

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Spotting - maybe not
May 23, 2016, 05:04:19 pm
"Other suggestions for reducing injury rates on the bouldering wall included discouraging spotting (which has been which has been shown to be ineffective and potentially dangerous in facilities with continuous, seamless padded floors)[/i]"

The original document (link now dead) they cite is 'showing' is excerpted here Spotting - maybe not and only contains the opinion of a handful of individuals (who it seems have a conflict of interest), rather than being based on observed data.


JamieG

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#1 Re: Spotting - maybe not
May 23, 2016, 05:41:06 pm
I've always thought it is up to the climber if they want to be spotted or not.

slackline

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#2 Re: Spotting - maybe not
June 06, 2016, 09:19:20 am
A good example of how spotting indoors could have helped prevent an accident as it would have been clear there was someone climbing above.  Also highlights the importance of being aware of what is going on above you and keeping an eye on your kids when they're at the wall....


tk421a

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#3 Re: Spotting - maybe not
June 06, 2016, 09:26:50 am
Wow.... What happened to the kid?

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#4 Re: Spotting - maybe not
June 06, 2016, 09:43:26 am
Shit.

It is a massive problem.

And not just with kids, although they are the worst. We spend a lot of time trying to come up with solutions, but I don't think the "Spotter/Sentry" would work. Too many people come in to boulder alone, it's one of the attractions of bouldering over roped climbing.

There are things that would work, but would drive everyone nuts. Things like recorded "Look up!" Messages or even patrolling staff (can you imagine? Like jobsworth pool lifeguards, whistles and all).

We run UV nights and that makes things even harder. We tried marking out on the mats, in UV paint, landing areas and "Look up" messages, but...


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Muenchener

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#5 Re: Spotting - maybe not
June 06, 2016, 10:23:55 am
Sadly now an orphan because the cretin parents were f*cking shot

lagerstarfish

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#6 Re: Spotting - maybe not
June 06, 2016, 10:25:14 am
We run UV nights

with happy hardcore, white gloves etc ?

danm

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#7 Re: Spotting - maybe not
June 06, 2016, 10:29:39 am
That video makes me feel really sick watching it. Once had a really horrible experience at a bouldering wall with a small child running under climbers, followed by a stand up row with the parent.

I think that there is an issue with many walls design - the roof area in my local wall feels like a potential death trap, I always walk around but you do see people walk under where there is a large complete blind spot. I've also seen people take flyers off dynamically set problems on arches etc and clip bits of wall or other climbers who assume they are out of any fall zone. It feels noticeably safer at a newer wall I go to which has huge amounts of space around the walls, but this isn't a solution for existing facilities. I can't see any easy solutions tbh.

SA Chris

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#8 Re: Spotting - maybe not
June 06, 2016, 10:35:14 am
Big "DON'T WALK" signs on the floor in danger areas?

slackline

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#9 Re: Spotting - maybe not
June 06, 2016, 10:42:51 am
Wow.... What happened to the kid?

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No idea, random GIF found on /r/climbing

We spend a lot of time trying to come up with solutions, but I don't think the "Spotter/Sentry" would work. Too many people come in to boulder alone, it's one of the attractions of bouldering over roped climbing.

I knew someone would say this (but couldn't be arsed writing anything at the time to counter it).

Of course you can't be spotted if you're on your own, but if you are with someone and taking it in turns to try a problem then there is no reason not to spot and make others aware of someone climbing.  It is more obvious than marking/writing on the mat because there isn't always someone climbing above those areas so people become complacent.

Just because you can't be spotted when you're on your own doesn't mean you shouldn't bother when you can be.  Even if the climber themselves doesn't want a spot and are happy to drop to the mat, being there indicates to others there is someone climbing and if they don't notice and continue to walk you can say "Hang on, my mates up there".

UV nights sound like a bad idea in this regard, but if others like it I hope they enjoy them safely.

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#10 Re: Spotting - maybe not
June 06, 2016, 10:45:52 am
Shit.

It is a massive problem.

And not just with kids, although they are the worst.

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Yeah, it's definitely not just kids (though that is an issue). I backed off at least three problems the last time I was down the wall because of people blithely wandering beneath me. I don't think some people realise how much someone could swing off a dynamic problem. It's one of the reasons I hate going to busy walls: you can't get on the problems you want to do, you feel like there's not space to stand safely in many areas and then when you get on a problem, people wander under you.

tomtom

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#11 Re: Spotting - maybe not
June 06, 2016, 10:54:35 am
We run UV nights

with happy hardcore, white gloves etc ?

No clothes - just body paint...

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