[tomtom]

Monday - had the lump successfully removed from my back... Painless but left a wound with old fashioned stitches on my lower back..



Word from the doc was don't do any activity that might split the stitches open... So no climbing all week - wanted to go today (Sunday) but felt shit all day...

[fried]

Must be a relief. Hope you have a speedy recovery.

Shit week of climbing, but a good week of spending hours in Ikea, painting, building furniture, taking it apart again. Still not quite finished, so nothing for me except...

Th - Indoors, tired and weak.

Hopefully I've built-up enough brownie points for some serious skiving if it ever stops raining.

Schedule's changed which is going to make it easier to get to the wall during the week.

[nai]

STG - Why Me? , Powerplant, Peak WIPS
Autumn goal - Raindogs

M - Did Why Me?  Well chuffed.
Eve HI AeroCap

T - Bouldering & AnCap

W rest

Th - Malham - Nest on Raindogs so didn't go on it. Had a good OS attempt at Space Race but spent too long hanging out on the steep section looking for a way other than the obvious one and blew it. RP'd ok. OS'd Hartley Hare (3rd 7a+ OS in 3 weeks having only managed 3x7a OS in the previous 5 years) then set straight off on Puddlejumper which I cocked up massively but fought through to the finishing holds only for a foot to slip. A metric tonne easier on RP.

F - tired but fingerboard and weighted pullups. Surprisingly ok

S - even more tired but Foot-on-campusing, performance a bit below par

S- rest

Happy with that week, now done more routes in 2 months of 2016 than the whole 2015 season.  Now aiming to get on Powerplant once back from half term in Font but a diary malfunction will make Malham trips difficult for a few weeks so Raindogs has to get pushed back to Autumn.

[csl]

STG - the next 6 weeks

Go to Ceuse fit and strong, climb Privilege du Serpent
Lose a bit of weight - currently around 73kg - still around 73 consistently, will try and drop a bit before Ceuse but not too worried.
7c outside - away this weekend if weather plays ball so hopefully get up something. - done

MTG - next 3 months

Get some routes i've tried ticked off - Tennessee, VoTB, New Dawn, Dominatrix
or
Try some new ones and do them... - Gunfighter, Directoonima

LTG - end of year

8a

Mon

Arch Building One

Easy session, just did some linked boulders

Tue

Rest

Wed

Arch Building One: Hard Boulders + AeroPow

Hard Boulders

1. White V6 - tick
2. White V7 - ok goes
3. Red V6 - nearly done

AeroPow

1 Minute Foot on Campus + a problem on the system board

5 reps

Thu

Castle: Boulders

Lots of problems up to V6 - ok volume

Fri

Biscuit Factory: AeroPow

Circuit Board

Did the "hard" (7b?) circuit second go, then did 3 more reps of it.
Then did "easy" (6b?) into "hard" (7b?) x 4 reps. Made it once, fell close to the end other times.

Then Foot on Campus

Sat

Building One: Boulders

Tried new ones on the big overhang mainly, done up to Reds, and tried a couple of whites which should go down.

Ok week - not mega structured but reasonable volume. 2 weeks taper now before Ceuse.

[andy_e]

Good effort TT. Hope it heals without a hitch!

[Muenchener]

Happy healing TomTom

STG (May): Frankenjura 7a redpoint
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: Latsch, South Tyrol. Felt sufficiently acclimatised to venture off the slabs onto the steeper bits, where I found the climbing utterly great but requiring more power endurance than I currently possess. Motivation to get better; excellent.
T: Rest day. 15 minutes shoulder/upper back mobility
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Half a dozen routes/attempts up to 7a. Partner bailed early, so finished off with a few sets of feet on campusing: medium rung 45 seconds on, 45 off, blocks of 4 & 3 failing on the last set both times.
T: Half an hour shoulder/upper back mobility, core
F: Wall, Thalkirchen. Eight routes/attempts to 7a
S: IFSC, Innsbruck. A Grand Day Out.
S: Zillertal bouldering, Sundergrund. Mostly coaching & spotting the lad on his first venture into outdoor bouldering. Haven't been up there for a few years, had forgotten how very beautiful it is.

[Duma]

Goals:
Summer - lots of local sport, unfinished business with cider soak from 15 years ago, tick Neath Abbey, identify (and if possible do) candidates for:
8A and 8b by next June

69kg. (av.)

Body Audit: Shoulder background tweak, but ok.

M: Making up for lack of climbing last week - TCA for couple of hrs afternoon, then again for another hour in eve before night shift. Managed to tick new mothership set, including the Routish (27 moves) traverse, pleased with how I was going. Instructive to watch Beastly Squirrel of this parish very casually repeat the hardest things on there though.
T: broken sleep, then TCA for hour and half before nights. Repeated some stuff on the Mothership, failed on a few Reds, though stuck the last move on the slab. tried my wood circuit again, still can't get past 27.
W: nothing, sleep then get daughter from school. Nights again.
T: sleep, took daughter to redpoint for her to do some toproping, then Bloc for comp - bit rushed fitting it in between dropping off little un and going to work, but pretty pleased with my effort - Flashed 19/20, got last one 3rd go. Then last night shift.
F: straight from nights to 2 hrs queuing for tickets to Massive Attacks' gig on the Downs in Sept - Exhausted but psyched. Few hrs sleep then Biblins with Simon. Good connies. Repeated The Bulge (7A) a couple of times, then worked out a sequence for, and did, Peckitts Traverse (7C) well happy with this -not my favourite sort of climbing at all, but hadn't felt close when I tried it last summer, so nice to tick off quick. Worked out the moves on Freshly Squeezed (7B+) after, but ran out of beans and skin for the tick.
S: nowt, catch up on sleep, watch WC, further ill advised liason (dammit!)
S: Cha1n pretended he was ill to avoid going to Cheddar with me, so drove to Gower to meet Simon and Remus. Trial Wall while waiting for the tide, flashed the amazing Crime and Punishment (E5, but 7a+ for me with pre placed) on Remus' gear, then down to Shipwreck Cove. Repeated King George Vs The Suffragettes (7a+) and Wrecking Ball (7b) (2nd go), then got pumped and failed dismally on Vennerne (7c+/8a) which is fucking brilliant! Did all moves comfortably, so should go soon, but ran out of tide and beans. Well psyched for Air Show (8a+) too after watching Si on it. Great day, good scene at the crag too. Fuck that Cha1n guy, I've got other mates anyway...

Ace week. Considered (from the ground) Achillies Wrath (8b) as my 8b before 40 aim, but looks fucking outrageous... Weight stable, but be good to drop another kilo, been very hungry last week or two though, so now may not be the time.

[ashtond6]

Funny week but learning lots

M rest
T anston stones, really weird conditions, slipping off huge holds with my tips seemingly wet?! One of my worst ever sessions
W rest
T Broomgrove, couldn't do the crux my old way (heat). Found a new way
F rest
S Broomgrove best ever link, start to middle of crux, then jug rest to end
S embankment did prawnography 6c to warm up. Busy crag and rain sent us too Raven tor. Tried obscene gesture 7c, did all the moves except the weird mono move. Got some good beta now via a thumb?!? Tried saline drip 7A at the end of the session, close but not enough power left

[shark]

11.1-3

M.Malham Left at midday with Ste, Zips and Paul. Cloudy but warm. Bit of a breeze. Good enough conditions but not primo. Led Taking the Space then Consenting. Put clips in on the Oak and linked big undercut to top. Belay Ste. Walk. Go 1 - Bit shaky - didnt get undercut by third bolt well - managed to get horn but didn't hold. Belay Ste. Nap in sun. Walk. Go 2 Executed lower moves better though some holds felt a bit greasy - got horn not well but still pulled through struggled holding sloper but managed to get tips in the big undercut before final traverse before pinging off. Belay Ste. Doze in sun. Walk. Go 3 Better conditions but tired and struggled to get intermediate before throw then came off. Clipped in. Did to top with two more rests.
T. AM. Tor met Nick C. there. Went up Sardine. Reworked crux. Greasy especially the undercut. Redpointed it first go. Tried Tin Of. Nearly flashed the crux. Went to top with a couple of rests. Tried a redpoint but muffed it with sun coming onto it. generally felt pretty good considering a hard evening at Malham the night before. Maybe should try climbing the day after Malham more
W.
T.
F. Malham Afternoon. Up with Ste, Karl B and Giulia but somehow ended up climbing with Squawk. Bit of a breeze and ok'ish temp but somehow conditions not good. Cons X1 then x2. F&EE X 1. Warm up go. Belay Squawk. The walk. Go 1 Ground to Intermediate before throw Belay Squawk. Walk. Go 2 ground to getting but not holding horn. Belay Squawk. Walk. Ground to undercut by third. Lost all power. Repeatedly failed to do throw and had to stick clip to get past it. All over the place. Shambles.
S.
S. Intended to train indoors but realised it was a nice day. Dropped boys off at Works and went on to eatswood. Several goes on ER. 6 goes. Go1-3 failing in crux section. Go 4 held penultimate hold on ledge for a second arrggh. Go 5 heel slipped out on crux section. Go 6 got thru crux but too boxed to recover on shake so didn't get cross thru on crimp rail. Nice to hang out at eatswood again and read the Sunday papers between goes. Beautiful place

Another frustrating week. Backed out of the student house purchase. Had said to Paul I would go back to Malham again on Monday but looked warm so backed out of that too. Arranged to go on Thursday with the Stacked One. Conditions look like they could be really good. Cross fingers

[Sasquatch]

STG - Drop weight
MTG - Local route projects - 8a/+?ish and 8c?ish
LTG - To Bolt

Week 4 of mostly no climbing shoes...

M - Yoga
T - Fb Max hangs, Campus Max ladders
W - Pullups and core
T - Mtn Bike 90 min
F - Routes w wife - not too bad, but got pumped very quickly.  Maybe need to do a bit of route climbing if I hope to do my projects...
S - Bouldering volume, pullups and core
S - House chores

Headed outside tomorrow.  Hoping for a good day.  The achilles is manageable wearing comfy climbing shoes, so will start out with that

[JackAus]

STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg. Finger recovery.
MTG: V9. Fear Factory List. 7/10 done. Have a fun NZ trip.
LTG: V11.

M: Gym.
T: St Leonards. New stuff. Did all bar 2. Gym, shoulder and levers after.
W: Rest.
T: St Leonards. Laps and then short gym session after. Levers and shoulder work. Long session.
F: Rest.
S: Trenches. Did some laps on stuff then tried Bianca's Boobies aka Battle of the Bulge V10. Steady couple of moves into a hard mantle over a bulge. Nowhere near cold enough for the slopers and no idea on a sequence. Either way, its desperate. Only a handful of people have done it. Very cool problem though.
S: The Hive and The Frontline.
Hive: Small crag, recently developed. Only 4 problems and about 10 routes. Had a look at the problems and decided only 2 looked worth trying, thankfully on the same block. Prism V4 arete, got shut down, hard. Just couldn't shift my weight around at one point, after that and its piss. Just couldn't do it. Diffraction V8, 3 move problem up an overhanging face. Only hold up high was small, maybe about 6-7mm and 3 fingers. Right hand low crimp wasn't much better... One to come back to when I can crimp harder.......
Frontline: Did some laps; V1, V1, V5, V7. Tried Macedomia, V5 mantle. Heinous. No sequence, no skin, no idea. Nails. Housemate has eliminates on it..... Had a first foray on Dumbo The Flying Elephant, V11 dyno. Prob biggest jump in Sydney, from slopers to blind slopey jug around a bulge. Only had a couple jumps, closest I got was maybe 6 inch short. I find it hard to generate the jump because the start is very bunched and close to the ground.

Bianca's Boobies. Slopey. Non-existent holds.




Diffraction. Crux is move right foot up to about shin height then a pretty steady dyno to top. Couldn't even pull on in this position, the crimps were too small.

[36chambers]

STG: Go sport climbing
MTG: ?
LTG: Profit

M: ?
T:
W: Indoors.
T:
F: Trollers Gill. Sport climbing. Bolt to bolt Smouldering Globules of Lust ~7c as a warm up, then lead clean straight afterwards. Quite happy as my previous best was just one 7b.
S:
S: Earl Crag. On my tod. Dark, breezy and moody, just like Earl usually is. Scattered showers but otherwise excellent conditions. Managed Sloping Beauty 7B and Andy Brown's Wall 7B, so waddled over to Lager Lager Lager 7C and felt like I was making good progress. Unfortunately, the clouds cleared and the sun began bearing down on the holds. However, I was still able to get myself up The Flakes 7B to end an excellent day out.

I now really dig Earl Crag. All the 7's I've done there have been excellent. The three I did on Sunday all required a dynamic slap for the top which felt very satisfying and quite committing without a spot.

[T_B]

M - School lunch. Mainly 50deg trying TR. Getting back up there.
T - Tor - 3 x Staminaband attempts getting through to P/Band and moves 19, 15 and 11. Felt strong, but powering out.
W -
T - Was going to do a light run at lunchtime but felt knackered.
F - Foundry - lunch. Light session with some level 2s and a Level 3.
S - Buttermere-Sailbeck fell race 15Km / 1300m of ascent. 123rd out of 175 runners. 2:24:39. Really tough, but a brilliant experience. I won't bore Power Club with the details 
S - Had meant to spend another day on the hill, but it would not have been fun! So chose a bouldering location with a very short, flat approach. Had previously looked at the Trowbarrow boulder in the rain, having wanted to try Vitruvian Man for ages. Lovely and sunny but windy conditions and rock int the shade. Did Pit Problem 7B, then had a few goes at VM swinging off the lip, so decided to put heel on and this cut the swing. Great moves, but slightly disappointing that it's not 7C Got stuck into Texas Hold Em, couldn't get the toe hook to work so ended up getting heel hook on the shelf with left hand still low on a wide pinchy undercut, then slapping left hand into higher undercut to cut the swing. Ace! Finished off by doing Pit Low, properly matched on the lowest edge (no dodgy cross over). Had a look at VM low start. Great sess.

[Dexter]

STG: Louis armstrong
MTG: more 8B's
LTG: Hubble

M: Recovering after the cave last Sunday, did a small amount of core and fingerboard
T:Rest
W:Wall session
T: Wall session
F: Rest
S: Rest
S: Back into the cave, no send sadly. It was super warm and greasy. Managed to do the crux move again but on trying to link it to the finish I split my index finger open grrrrrr. Not to bad so hopefully it should be healed up soon. For now its going to be tape and back 3.

[monkoffunk]

Power club
STG: Font 7A+. Done! Might be soft but I had brilliant beta in the form of Ben Stokes' video, without which I don't think I'd have worked it out. New STG: climb as many 7A/+ and 7b-7c as possible. Find 7c+ project.
MTG: 1. French 7c+, before 1/1/17. 2. Tick unfinished business list (4/13). 3. Font 7B before 1/1/17.
LTG: 1. Cider Soak and Academic, before 1/1/18. 2. Font 7B+, before 1/1/18.

M - Rest day. Had nothing pressing to do in the afternoon and early start next day but still managed to be asleep around 2330. Need to work on getting more sleep... Surprisingly tough.

T - Bouldering on Portland. Portland Bill is awesome! So many cool problems to do. Did a fairly recent addition by Ben Stokes, Iron Curtains 7A+ for my first 7A+. Technical wall so less powerful than other 7A+ I've tried.

Then tried Winkle Picker, but the pinch move on the arête was too hard today. Not sure why, will come back to it. Got quite tempted by the line next to it, a project in the Dorset guide book. A roof and big holds at the lip but then a committing move to finish. Use of fear scream rather than power scream got the job done. The sit might be 7A but I'm sure there are people out there who can come and downgrade it!

After that went to Hidden Quarry and failed on a couple more 7As. Realised I'd been climbing for hours and might be contributing! Did an awesome 6B+ called DNA Test with a cool top out.

W - Turns out over did it yesterday given all the tricep pressing I ended up doing. 
T - Course in Bath. Double rest day. Needed it, really overdid it!
F - Second day of course. Triple rest day. Prob didn't need that.
S - At a wedding. Odd shooting pains in left tricep.
S - Wedding reception (Hindu, so long but awesome!). Shooting pains not quite gone. 5th rest day!

Really happy to do 7A+ and a new problem. Pretty psyched to do more, and get back to some I've failed on.

Needed some but not all of the rest I took. Even when busy always time for something, even just a core session or conditioning. Definitely will have done better this time next week. On nights from Monday so will need to up the discipline! Wedding was also lots of Indian food. Awesome, but back on the nutrition bandwagon this week.

[SA Chris]

M - Nothing. Bit of saw related DIY?
T - Nothing. Bit of Hammering related DIY.
W - Light bouldering session. Thumb still sore, so stuck to problems involving no full crimps or pinches for right hand. Actually did OK, but thumb hurt at end of session in spite of light / almost no use.
T - Core session
F - Weights
S - short walk with kids
S - longer walk with kids

Got physio booked for tomorrow to get thumb checked.

Looks like I may have committed to getting a road cycle.....

[Three Nine]

.

Needed some but not all of the rest I took. Even when busy always time for something, even just a core session or conditioning. Definitely will have done better this time next week. On nights from Monday so will need to up the discipline! Wedding was also lots of Indian food. Awesome, but back on the nutrition bandwagon this week.

 

hangboard, not this core shit

[cheque]

STG- Finish film.
LTG- 8a before 40.

M-Sa Nothing really.

Su Filming. Usual exhausting carrying/ abseiling/ rigging/ scrambling jugging sandwich with driving as the bread.

Making the film's taken over now. Time and energy for midweek climbing and training in short supply.

[tk421a]

STG: Climb
MTG: 7C/8a
LTG: 8A/8b

Great week of training, until I tweaked my right ring finger a2 pulley. Feeling better over the last 2 days, but will have to take it easy and watch it for a few weeks.
Time to go running / cycling / core training for a bit I think. +Open hand deadhangs maybe? I should get better OH rather than half crimping.

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing tired from last weeks efforts.
Tue. Board struggling so just lapping 2 problems with lots of different foot sequences.
Wed. Nothing
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. Bike one hour did a few hard efforts.
Sat. Board struggling again, gave up after warming up. Did 5 sets of repeaters 5 sec on 5 off with 25lbs added.
Sun. Lincoln Arrow 99 miles 5 hours 33 mins. Coped with this quite well Achilles twinged a bit but always wore off. I had hoped to be able to sit on wheels for this, but rode on my own for two and a half hours just passing folk. Then a guy caught me up and sat on for a couple of miles before he went straight on at the feed station. Manage to get with a couple of groups but they dropped of after 2 or 3 miles. It was supposed to be flat but there were something's that seemed  very similar to hills towards the end.
This was my target for the end of my rehab phase. So I'm pleased with how it went.

[cha1n]

S: Cha1n pretended he was ill to avoid going to Cheddar with me, so drove to Gower to meet Simon and Remus.

*sobs* seriously bored of being ill now, feels like I've run a marathon the day before every morning, when I get up. Legs are like jelly, dizzy. Helpfully, the doctors don't have an appointment for 1.5 weeks...

[SA Chris]

Surely you can phone in morning for an appt? Most have slots available if you are feeling really Tom and Dick.

[Coops_13]

STG: Don't injure self in Devon
MTG: Get solid on 7B/+ boulder and 7b/+ sport
LTG: 8A & 8a

M - S: Boozy and busy, girlfriend flies home to U.S for good this weekend

Off to Devon for Bank Holiday weekend, let's see what no climbing for two months (apart from Bowderstone) does to my stamina...

[mr chaz]

STG more 8as
LTG 8b

M. Power endurance session, foot on campus board. Seeing some real improvement now, time to start increasing hang time.
T. Rest
W. 45 degree board session.
T. One arm hangs and campussing.
F. Power endurance, foot on campus board.
S. rest
S. Cave with Dexter. First proper session on Lou Ferrino. Went from being shut down on most moves to doing them all and a couple of decent links. Might be back next week for round 2. Compression style always feels hard for me, so would be chuffed to get this done.

[Nibile]

Mon -  kettlebell swings 50x10 kg; squat jumps; cleans 10x5; press ups 5x5; hill sprints x6.
Tue - rest.
Wed - quick lunchtime session. Kettlebell swings (two and one armed); barbell complex x2 (bentover row x20, front squat x5, cleans x10, press x5, overhead walk); dumbbell complex (speed) x2. Very good.
Thu - climbing class. Foot on campusing, explosive. Some bouldering in horrible conditions. Climbed project in front of girls because I am the best.
Fri - rest.
Sat - max cleans 5x4x53; max snatch pulls 3x53, 5x3x43. Here: and here: Protocol 4 x2 with cleans, broad jumps, front levers, mirror boxing.
Sun - route training on the system. 15"x8, 30"x4, 1'x2. Exhausted. 8c+ is easy in comparison and Tom Randall is God.

Good week training wise. Good form. Still lean despite everything. Addressing food and alcohol I could become really really good.