I really noticed the difference between the XSEdge and XSGrip2 recently - both indoors and out.I have been using well broken-in bootsics as my all-round go-to shoe for sport, bouldering and trad for the last couple of years - but this has been mainly on granite, gneiss and the occasional bit of limestone.Recently, on a hard(ish, for me) sport route at Dunkeld I had a session using the boostics and not feeling all that solid on some of the less positive footholds (not smears, just...slopey edges and polished bosses etc.). swapped to to my instinct slippers and the difference was obvious.I'm not thinking of getting my old boostics resoled in XSgrip2 as they still have good shape.
The Furias are soft and downturned. Amazingly good on the steep stuff, but they do smear well, better than the Stix, but the edging is compromised, still very good for such a soft shoe. The XS grip feels just as grippy as Stealth HF, and they fit my feet well, unlike Dragons. The heel works brilliantly, very little dead space, unlike 5.10 shoes.What Scarpa do need to do is make a Stix with a decent heel (they know how to after all) and a velcro strap.
They remedied this with the vs but they are too soft for routes in my opinion.
Quote from: tim palmer on May 19, 2016, 10:51:02 amThey remedied this with the vs but they are too soft for routes in my opinion. Really!? They're like planks. Felt as stiff as 5.10 blanco's to me, though admittedly it's been a few years since I've worn blanco's.Everyone else I've spoken to (haven't read all this thread) seems to say they're too stiff if anything, hence some resoles with grip.
Quote from: bendavison on May 19, 2016, 11:46:52 amQuote from: tim palmer on May 19, 2016, 10:51:02 amThey remedied this with the vs but they are too soft for routes in my opinion. Really!? They're like planks. Felt as stiff as 5.10 blanco's to me, though admittedly it's been a few years since I've worn blanco's.Everyone else I've spoken to (haven't read all this thread) seems to say they're too stiff if anything, hence some resoles with grip.I'm with Ben on this, have always found the VS stiffer than the original Instinct Lace, though I realise that's not the consensus. My VS re-soled in Grip2 feel about the same as the Instinct Lace.
Furia are soft and the drago are meant to be even softer. Maybe give them a try?
Quote from: sxrxg on May 18, 2016, 10:13:35 pmFuria are soft and the drago are meant to be even softer. Maybe give them a try?Jesus have i been asleep for the last year or so .....?Furia - They look like the dogs bollocks, just the kind of softness I’m looking for, will need to find a pair in the shops and get them tried on ASAP.The Dragos look like a step too far though, only in the UK in limited quantities which will mean if you really like them getting a spare pair might be a pain!
Dear Scarpa,Yours truly,Blee Dingtoes
Tim - the new instinct lace is the best toe hooking shoe I've used so think you'll like that part of them. Softer than the old ones though, feel more like a cross between the old ones and a booster s. Not sure how theyll perform on vert, im mainly using booster s for that kind of thing, but I like them on the steep stuff..
