[fried]

Mon - Fri - Nothing, didn't bother doing any indoor sessions as my knee if dodgy and I wanted to rest it a bit. I did try a BM session on Thursday, that just confirmed that BMing after not BMing for 6 months is really hard.

Sat - Buthiers Piscine, did a couple of red/black circuit problems that I couldn't do before. Fell off Ultrason after I'd done the hard move again. Nice afternoon.

Sun - Camping is great I love it, but it's better for barbecuing and drinking wine than climbing. Tired and lucklustre. Tried some whites at Isatis with no success whatsoever. My fingers are sore, so that's good.

[36chambers]

Anyone got any tips of how to get multiple decent goes on problems on a full day out? I feel tired after about 3 goes on a problem at my limit and then it's downhill after that, even if I rest for ages between goes.

If possible, take some mates and a sandwich. Upon arriving at the problem you would like to do, take out said sandwich and enjoy it, whilst watching your friends figure out all the moves and subtleties. Time the eating of the sandwich so that it concludes just as the optimum beta for the problem is discovered (preferably just before your friends actually do the problem). Then casually flash the problem and declare it soft.   

[Duma]

Goals:
Summer - lots of local sport, unfinished business with cider soak from 15 years ago, tick Neath Abbey, identify (and if possible do) candidates for:
8A and 8b by next June

69kg. (av.)

Body Audit: Shoulder background tweak, but ok.

M: bought and lugged wood for daughters present around, then too much booze, and ill advised liason
T:  hungover day. building playhouse in eve - physically hard.
W: more building, then entertain duaghter (keeping her out of garden). More building in eve.
T: work am, TCA with daughter after school, mostly bimbling, but a few attempts on reds, plus mothership reset so couldn't resist a go on a few of the new things. finished playhouse after.
F: work am, daughter after school, gave up trying to keep her out of the garden so she got her birthday present a couple of days early - was gratifyingly excited.
S: Daughters party - 7 year old girls are pretty exhausting
S: Daughters Bday, family round, relaxing and eating in garden.


Very light week, esp since work the weekend before meant I climbed once in 9 days. The building felt like it worked me though, and weight seems to be stable, suprisingly given my lack of restraint this week. Back on it now!

[fried]

Very light week

 

[tommytwotone]

Goals:

... booze, and ill advised liason...

Go on...


 

[Duma]

Very light week

 

in climbing terms...

... booze, and ill advised liason...

Go on...
 

lack of restraint this week. Back on it now!

some exs should stay exs

[nai]

STG - Raindogs, Why Me?      and other Peak WIPS

M - Back on Why Me? for the first time this year. Couple of burns to remember and tweek sequence, found a couple of better bits of beta.  3 RPs, best attempt through to the top undercuts with just a slap, match and pop remain. Pretty happy with that as preparation hadn't been ideal over the weekend

Eve - HI AeroCap. Hard to get going. Also hard to keep going.

T - AnCap, weighted pullups, 3x10 LI AeroCap

W - rest

Th - Rivelin. Minging, Tried Moolah but futile, know the gear holds now at least. 1/2 AeroPow circuits workout back home

F - Quick boulder in garage on new wooden holds.
    Fingerboard
    AeroPow foot-on campusing, only managed one set then ground to a halt (was a good quality set though)
    Eve - Core

S - Took kids to Foundry,mostly belayed them but managed 1x10 mins AeroCap
     Back home - - weighted pullups
      Second AeroPow set remaining from yesterday

S - rest (from climbing but a pretty active family day out)

and as I'm late to the party and it's quite relevant (and I'll get to post it twice):

M - Back on Why Me?. Felt tired and found it hard to get going but kicked into life and got it 3rd RP.  So pleased, often get on this early season then elsewhere dries and nobody wants to go back to Two Tier so it's been on the WIP list for years. And of course it's bloody brilliant, not sure why it doesn't warrant three stars, it's better than most two and some three star routes in the area for me.

[the_dom]

Mon: Weights (deadlifts, one arm snatches and bench presses) at lunch and bouldering in the PM.
Tues: Feeling a bit crappy so spent the day on the couch.
Wed: Feeling better so more weights at lunch and bouldering in the evening
Thurs: 30 Mins on the treadmill in the afternoon
Fri: Weights at lunch, climbing in the evening
Sat: Morning surf and 20 mins on the treadmill in the afternoon
Sun: Bouldering. Echo Valley. I hate Echo Valley. Did most of the moves on a 7C+ that I've never tried, including all the hard ones, but couldn't link it. I still hate Echo Valley, but a fun day out.

2 Weeks to Magic Wood (and my wedding ceremony in the Sud Tirol, but really, Magic Wood is the important thing, right?).. Elbow is on the mend, I think.

[tomtom]

Anyone got any tips of how to get multiple decent goes on problems on a full day out? I feel tired after about 3 goes on a problem at my limit and then it's downhill after that, even if I rest for ages between goes.

If possible, take some mates and a sandwich. Upon arriving at the problem you would like to do, take out said sandwich and enjoy it, whilst watching your friends figure out all the moves and subtleties. Time the eating of the sandwich so that it concludes just as the optimum beta for the problem is discovered (preferably just before your friends actually do the problem). Then casually flash the problem and declare it soft.

Doesn't this just evolve to some bizarre standoff, where you and your mates rack up at the crag, spend three hours eating sandwiches very very very slowly, waiting for one person to crack?

[cheque]

Anyone got any tips of how to get multiple decent goes on problems on a full day out? I feel tired after about 3 goes on a problem at my limit and then it's downhill after that, even if I rest for ages between goes.

I don't know if it translates to bouldering but I got great session fitness for routes by doing timed rests- climb something you can just about do, time how long it takes to recover enough to do it again, then repeat, resting for the same period each time 'til you're fucked. Do the same thing in weekly sessions, reducing the rest time each week 'til you're recovering really quickly.

[webbo]

Mon. Physio.
Tue. Saw Consultant, he felt I had made really good progress and probably at least a month in front of what he would have expected. Discharged. Board did a couple of hardish things midway through the session, then eased down with warm up problems. 3 sets of repeaters to finish with 25 lbs added.
Wed. Bike intervals Physio.
Thu. Board warm up 4 hardish problems then warm down problems. 3 sets of repeaters with 25 lbs.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Physio. Discharged. Board warm up then 10 hard for me problems the 6 easier ones to finish. Bike intervals.
Sun. Bike 80.31 miles 4 hrs 51 mins  quite hilly going reasonably well.
Good week seem to well on the way to recovery.

[petejh]

STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), by mid June
MTG: undecided
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Power & Longer bouldering phase (though I didn't do any)

M.
T. Boardroom. Campus sesh no.2. Managed 1-5 on small rungs (didn't match) on righthand. 1- 'handover5' on lefthand. Also 1-5-slap on medium rungs both hands. Also 1234 double dyno medium rungs.
W. Core & Mobe.
T. Boardroom. Campus sesh no. 3. Did 1-4-6 on smalls both hands. 1-3-touch6 on smalls rungs both hands. Progress. Then double dyno 1234 on small rungs.
F. Flew to Belfast to meet girlfriend. Ballycastle beach. Fairhead in afternoon, glorious sun finally! Did Taoiseach (tough but ace), then Midnight Cruiser (pure class!). Pizza. Perfect day.
S. Quick hit at Pigeon Rock with GF, did Falcon, nice. Before taking daughter to swimming then Helen's Bay beach. Played in kid's playground on the monkey bars, well ace.
S. Pigeon Rock with GF and daughter. Tried Virgo. daughter scared of the flake squeeze and so commenced a lengthy diagonal ab/gear strip. Played around in sun. Went to boulderworld for an evening mess around and light campus sesh.

Two decent campus sessions and lovely to finally get to climb at Fairhead. Rather ambling towards Mecca, hoping my body's reaction to a hard dose of power and PE beasting is as it was last year. Next week...

[Muenchener]

STG (May): Frankenjura 7a 7a+ redpoint
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

Fleeing from pouring rain north of the Alps, Frankenjura long weekend #2 becomes South Tyrol long weekend

M: 30 minutes knee & shoulder physio exercises & upper back mobility
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. Short session with M jnr.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Eight routes to 6b+, focus on steep jug pulling & falling practice.
T: rest day
F: 30 minutes knee & shoulder physio exercises & upper back mobility
S: Latsch, South Tyrol. Frankenjura pocket pulling one weekend, gneiss slabs the next takes a bit of adapting to. And 6b gneiss slabs can have some *very* technical moves. Nice place, perfect conditions, great fun.
S: Juval, South Tyrol. More gneiss slabs directly underneath Mr Messner's castle.

[Sasquatch]

STG - Drop weight
MTG - Local route projects - 8a/+?ish and 8c?ish
LTG - To Bolt

Week 3 of no climbing shoes...

M - 30 min Mtn Bike, 1.25hr yoga session
T - FB, Campus (PB - 1-4-7.5), Lift (Squat, DL, Bench), 40 min Mtn Bike
W - Travel for Work - 1mi run to test out achilles - went well.
T - Travel for Work
F - FB Max Hangs, bike 1hr
S - Run 1mi, Mow, Stretch
S - Climb Outside - Hatcher Pass.  Went out to check and and finish cleaning a couple of newly discovered boulders w relatively easy access.  One is a reasonably sized boulder with about 7-9 lines on it, likely from v2-v10+?.  The other is this one with 5-6 lines from v6 to v??(hard), which goes down about 6-8 feet further than the lowest part of the boulder you can see in the pic:

Cleaned 10 new problems to add to the 2 already cleaned.  2 still remain to be cleaned.  Did some landing work, then tried to climb in the blazing sun.  not very effective for climbing hard.  Good day though, and the achilles held up to its first day in climbing shoes reasonably well.  Did three new problems at v3/4, v6, and v6.  Tried and failed on three more that are prob in the v9, v8, and v8 ranges.  Didn't get on the highball lines shown in the image, so there is loads to go back to.  Very cool boulders with good movement, good location, and relatively easy access (5 min downhill approach, and 10-15min uphill slog out). I'm very excited. 

Headed out Tuesday to re-bolt the two MTG project lines.  IfI can drop a few lbs, the season will be on....

[shark]

Here's the summary:

12nd Mar Noon. Conditions Baltic. Oak partially wet and holds glassy. Refamaliarised myself with top half

18th Mar  Conditions Primo. Ground to established on undercut by third bolt and there to mid way across top traverse. PROGRESS

21st Mar. Conditions Good. 3 x Overlapping thirds including start to touching horn. PROGRESS

24th Mar Conditions Baltic. 2 x 3 sections. BACKWARDS

29th Mar Conditions changed from hot to cold / holds glassy. Horn to top then almost throw to top thwarted by
foot slips and also 2 x touching horn from ground PROGRESS

1st April Conditions OK but Oak had a wet streak and undercut by third was undryably wet. Throw to top SAME

19th April Conditions Boiling. 2nd bolt to top ! Also ground to slipping off horn and and throw to the top. MAJOR PROGRESS

21st April Conditions Boiling. Ground to top traverse and 2 x Ground to horn. COMPARABLE

25th April Conditions OK. Ground to top traverse and 2 x Ground to horn SAME

28th April Baltic. 2 x Ground to top traverse and 1 x Ground to sloper (just before top traverse) PROGRESS

2nd May Conditions Primo. Ground to sloper with feet not getting traction. Discovered toe piece of whites had bagged out. 2 x ground to horn SHOULD HAVE BEEN THE DAY

5th May Conditions Boiling. Best go ground to undercut by third bolt MASSIVELY BACKWARDS

13th May Conditions Boiling. 2 x ground to undercut by third bolt SAME

17th May Conditions OK. Best go ground to top traverse nearly. ALMOST BACK TO 21st April performance

[Wood FT]

Here's the summary:

12nd Mar Noon. Conditions Baltic. Oak partially wet and holds glassy. Refamaliarised myself with top half

18th Mar  Conditions Primo. Ground to established on undercut by third bolt and there to mid way across top traverse. PROGRESS

21st Mar. Conditions Good. 3 x Overlapping thirds including start to touching horn. PROGRESS

24th Mar Conditions Baltic. 2 x 3 sections. BACKWARDS

29th Mar Conditions changed from hot to cold / holds glassy. Horn to top then almost throw to top thwarted by
foot slips and also 2 x touching horn from ground PROGRESS

1st April Conditions OK but Oak had a wet streak and undercut by third was undryably wet. Throw to top SAME

19th April Conditions Boiling. 2nd bolt to top ! Also ground to slipping off horn and and throw to the top. MAJOR PROGRESS

21st April Conditions Boiling. Ground to top traverse and 2 x Ground to horn. COMPARABLE

25th April Conditions OK. Ground to top traverse and 2 x Ground to horn SAME

28th April Baltic. 2 x Ground to top traverse and 1 x Ground to sloper (just before top traverse) PROGRESS

2nd May Conditions Primo. Ground to sloper with feet not getting traction. Discovered toe piece of whites had bagged out. 2 x ground to horn SHOULD HAVE BEEN THE DAY

5th May Conditions Boiling. Best go ground to undercut by third bolt MASSIVELY BACKWARDS

13th May Conditions Boiling. 2 x ground to undercut by third bolt SAME

17th May Conditions OK. Best go ground to top traverse nearly. ALMOST BACK TO 21st April performance

C'mon yes. when are you next back? I take it you mean 16th May btw, unless you've just had a Gaskins start at Malaham.

[dave]

Glad to hear you're getting close Shark, like you're turning the corner onto the home straight, the finish line is in sight and you're a clear of the jamaican on your right shoulder. The stars are aligning, you're poised for success, everything's coming together nicely and success could happen literally at any moment in the next couple of years.

[JackAus]

S: Daughters party - 7 year old girls are pretty exhausting

Holy shit! Already?? Growing up fast!!

STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg. Finger recovery.
MTG: V9. Fear Factory List. 7/10 done. Have a fun NZ trip.
LTG: V11.

M: Rest.
T: St Leonards. New stuff. Did all bar hardest 2. Abit of core after.
W: Rest.
T: St Leonards. Laps and then gym after. Changed my rotator cuff stretches, fuck me they are doing something now!
F: Rest.
S: Alfords Point, Bonnet Bay and St Leonards. Big day.
AP: Warmed up by doing Love Gun Stand V7 first go. Then set about working Love Gun V10 and String Em Up V8/9. Share the same start. 2nd hold is either a bad undercut pinch (I'm shit on undercuts...) or a razor sharp crimp (slices my fingers...) but finally did the move off the razor and sliced 3 fingertips open in the process. Get some skin and these will go. Get less fat too.
BB: Lap on K2 V5. Its long. 2nd go. Worked a few other things. Had a go on Cling Thing V10, did all the low moves and the moves after crux but that crux is heinous. Press into a shitty undercut pinch then build feet up and slap other hand high to a sloper. Have nothing on that hold... Tried Last Man Standing V8, worked out a few moves on it. Fell off Sea V6, zero skin and it hurt my finger.
SL: Stopped in to see a friend. Did a few problems inc a project I'd been trying for 3 sessions. Pleased. Hard. Knackered.
S: Black Cave. Negative skin but dusk session. See how my finger fares on The Plunge V10. Warmed up abit then got back on it. 4 moves long with the crux being the last, dyno out through the roof. Would be ok if it wasn't so fucking lowball. Moves 1 and 2, no worries. Didn't stick move 3, big stretch off undercling to sharp crimp. And 4, the dyno. Had a few decentish throws but far too fat and not enough core atm. Was hot too!
Warmed down ticking Lower Lip Traverse V6/7. Skin was goooooonnnneee.... So sore!

[tk421a]

Long time since last post - went to Albarracin end of April, didn't do any 7B+ as hoped, but ticked 2 7Bs, Eclipse (in 2hrs, first go once I got the right beta for me) and Aeroline (4 short sessions, needed to get the beta just right). Flight got delayed coming back = £190 compensation from easyjet - cheap trip!

STG: Lots of mountaineering (Cuillin Traverse and more) in Scotland, mid June - should get some normal aerobic fitness back
MTG: Road trip Aug-Oct, climb 7C and 8a.
LTG: 8A / 8b, will be climbing full time from Jul/Aug onwards for a few months.

Last week, 3 boulder sessions, 2 gym sessions (rowing & bw circuits), yoga and a 3hr bike ride.
Sunday: Campus session - came from family dinner night before so didn't have shoes. Did some benchmark testing. BM1000 smallest crimps with 20kg added weight for 13s max hang.
Campusing - Big BM balls, 1-5 and 1-4-6. Medium rungs, 1-4-6. Small rungs 1-3-5. Also on BM balls I can lock off and go statically 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9 which was fun.
Feeling strong, translating to quick V7s at the wall (in a session or two). Looking to keep the strength going up and do a cycle of endurance at some point.
I'm job-free from July. If anyone's looking for a belay or spot let me know!

[shark]

C'mon yes. when are you next back? I take it you mean 16th May btw, unless you've just had a Gaskins start at Malaham.

Yes the 16th. Back friday. Temps look OK. Hopefully get to the top traverse but dubious I have enough in reserve currently to get all the way across. Only one way to find out of course.

[Luke Owens]

C'mon yes. when are you next back? I take it you mean 16th May btw, unless you've just had a Gaskins start at Malaham.

Yes the 16th. Back friday. Temps look prime. I'm going to get to the top traverse and smash it in to the chains.

I've fixed that self doubting post for you Shark, venga!

[Nibile]

Ahaha! You beat me to it!

[Hugh]

STG: 7B.
MTG: Don't get broken. Get strong for Santa Gadea in June.

Mon: Intervals (12 move x 4, 1:1 rest-duty cycle).
Tue: FB, max hangs. 19mm 10s +22kg x 3. Success rep 1. 2 fail on 7s, 3 fail on 8s. Sloper +28kg x 1, success.
Wed: TCA, limit bouldering with dynamic moves. Brief campus (1-3-5-7 ladders x 2).
Thu: Nowt.
Fri: TCA, pootle on powerful sloper probs on the Mothership. Bloody knackered.
Sat: Run 4.5km. Ate and drank way too much.
Sun: FB, max hangs. 19mm 10s +22kg x 3. Success rep 1. 2 fail on 9s, 3 success. Sloper +28kg x 1, success.

Decent week, feeling fairly strong. Back a bit tweaky, caution required.