[shark]

11.1-3

M.
T. AM. Tor met Nick C. there. Intended going on Anger Management 8a+ but the start was wetter than saturday and there looked to be a wet streak on the headwall. We went on Obscene Toilet 7c. Not climbing fluidly and discovered a new shake every time I went up. Also got alarmingly pumped very quickly. Managed to link to crux from ground but too boxed to do it.
W.
T.
F. Malham with Nick C. Forecast had looked good but too fucking hot again when got there. Con x 1 then x 2. Hung around in sun. Then did Taking the Space to do something. Rock reading ability had gone to shit and seemed to take an age to work out moves. Flashed it but not a good sign. Dogged up Oak - top traverse felt hard. Couple of goes slipping off holds by first bolt. Went for the walk and worked myself up for a big go. Managed to link to the undercut by third bolt with a massive effort. Busted. Had another go later on in the evening and managed to get to the same point even though tired as conditions had improved. Did the throw. Then linked from horn to top fairly straightforwardly. Arrrggh
S.
S.

Another frustrating day at Malham. Had to try so hard to get as high as I did which wasn't very far. Decided to sack off the Oak till the Autumn but changed my mind again today as conditions look like they will be primo next week and keen teams are still going up.

Put on a couple of pounds this week and feel like I am suffering from combat fatigue. On Saturday morning Sonia found out her application for voluntary redundancy has been accepted which is generally a good thing but has potential impacts and uncertainties. Also on Saturday morning made an offer which was accepted for a pair of student houses which I am buying with a mate. Also further building work starting tomorrow on or own house. So plenty of distracting stuff going on in the background.

Reviewed my Spring campaign on the Oak to determine where I am with it and I think it is worth persisting with visits if the forecast is below 14 degrees with either cloud or a wind blowing in. However, concerned that I  wont have the endurance to make it across the top traverse if I get there going on this weeks performance.

Here's the summary:

12nd Mar Noon. Conditions Baltic. Oak partially wet and holds glassy. Refamaliarised myself with top half

18th Mar  Conditions Primo. Ground to established on undercut by third bolt and there to mid way across top traverse. PROGRESS

21st Mar. Conditions Good. 3 x Overlapping thirds including start to touching horn. PROGRESS

24th Mar Conditions Baltic. 2 x 3 sections. BACKWARDS

29th Mar Conditions changed from hot to cold / holds glassy. Horn to top then almost throw to top thwarted by
foot slips and also 2 x touching horn from ground PROGRESS

1st April Conditions OK but Oak had a wet streak and undercut by third was undryably wet. Throw to top SAME

19th April Conditions Boiling. 2nd bolt to top ! Also ground to slipping off horn and and throw to the top. MAJOR PROGRESS

21st April Conditions Boiling. Ground to top traverse and 2 x Ground to horn. COMPARABLE

25th April Conditions OK. Ground to top traverse and 2 x Ground to horn SAME

28th April Baltic. 2 x Ground to top traverse and 1 x Ground to sloper (just before top traverse) PROGRESS

2nd May Conditions Primo. Ground to sloper with feet not getting traction. Discovered toe piece of whites had bagged out. 2 x ground to horn SHOULD HAVE BEEN THE DAY

5th May Conditions Boiling. Best go ground to undercut by third bolt MASSIVELY BACKWARDS

13th May Conditions Boiling. 2 x ground to undercut by third bolt SAME

[ashtond6]

Sorry to hear Shark, seems like you've had some bad luck

Good week but poor from a climbing perspective
Also pretty frustrated as I have improved loads (doing sport) since my last trad climbs. Then got totally spanked today, the climbing seemed really easy but I was terrified with the gear..

M family commitments, big walk
T ill  (again)
W cheedale, 6b warm up, 6c and did all the moves on Sturgeon very quickly which is good for me
T family commitments
F friends commitments
S friends commitments, 25k walk on Kinder which was great
S knackered but headed to lawrencefield, see above regarding spanking on E3!

[rodma]

M:
T: campus at wall. Manage 158 face on, on the middle rungs both sides for the very first time.
W: rest
T: shorter campus session due to heading to font at the weekend. Still strongish.
F: at work it transpires that I may be of some help at a big meeting this coming Monday. It's agreed with the big boss ( Mrs Rodma) that I'll fly out on Monday evening.
S: help load the van and watch Mrs Rodma and the wee guy head off down the road. Feels weird.
S: bowden. Roasting. Try working class but am firing off the start. Try lippy, which I haven't been on since 2002. Funnily enough I have nothing like the endurance required. Watch one of the Edinburgh lads piss it, despite having redder tips than an overpsyched font newbie.

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

[csl]

STG - the next 6 weeks

Go to Ceuse fit and strong, climb Privilege du Serpent
Lose a bit of weight - currently around 73kg - not going so well, hovering around the same or more
7c outside - away this weekend if weather plays ball so hopefully get up something. - done, did two this weekend

MTG - next 3 months

Get some routes i've tried ticked off - Tennessee, VoTB, New Dawn, Dominatrix
or
Try some new ones and do them... - Gunfighter, Directoonima

LTG - end of year

8a

Mon

Arch Building One: Hard Boulders + AeroPow

Hard(ish) Boulders

1. Did Purple and Yellow, V5 (felt like V6). Basic crimpy and not my style. Took 5 goes so not hard enough.
2. Green V7/8? - good progress, one move i can't do.
3. White V7, crimpy, all moves done

AeroPower

Started on Laps on system board circuit, did one clockwise and one anticlockwise for first set, but skin hurt too much.

Made up a circuit of linked boulders which felt around 7a+/b and got really pumped doing laps on it. Managed it once out of 4 tries.

Tue

Arch Building One: AeroPow

Meant to be 4x4s and foot on campus, reality was that my elbows were exploding so did a few laps on linked boulders and sacked it off.

Wed

Rest

Thu

Arch Building One: AeroPow

Circuit Laps
my circuit on system board - not sure how hard this is, but v continuous and gets me pumped.

5 reps.

2 laps
1.4 laps
2 laps
1.8 laps
1.2 laps

Foot on Campus

Rest = climbing time

4 mins - pb
2.20
2.15
2.15

Rest Intervals

2 mins climbing 1 min shaking out, 24 minutes total.

Fri

Rest

Sat

Cheddar

Remnant, one bolt to bolt on It's a kind of Magic, then 1st RP. Felt 7a the way i did it.
Lion Rock, one bolt to bolt on Valley of the Blind.
RP1 - footslip right at the top
RP2 - did it, felt very steady

Pride Evans, tried the extra moves on Directoonima that i didn't know.

Sun

Cheddar

Shakin' like a leaf - one rest as a warm up, got confused...
1 Bolt to Bolt on Directoonima to get clips in
RP1 - Done, felt v. steady

Remnant
tried to flash Spy in the Sky, fell at the crux in confusion.
RP1, fell in same place, wasn't pumped or powered out, just hadn't really worked out how to do the move.

Did two laps on It's a kind of magic to finish.

Great week, equalled best sport grade of 7c twice in a weekend, and both times felt like I had loads left in the tank. Nice to validate all the training I've done at the wall + good confidence boost pre Ceuse. One hard week of training left.

[tommytwotone]

LTG: Font 7something


M: >6hr drive back from Devon to Leeds with 2yr old in the back. Couple of beers in the evening to recover.
T: Nowt
W: Climbing Lab after work - bit of an unfocused session pottering. Got a few things done but powered out really quickly after about an hour. Long road back to fitness in prospect.
T: Nowt
F: Nowt
S: Trip to Hardcastle Crags en famille - no climbing but a decent walk, quite a bit of it with Una in the sling on my back.
S: Back to Climbing Lab with Una in tow. She was happy watching the IFSC World Cup on the big screen at the wall (nice idea that) but less fussed about actually doing any climbing. Managed a race up a couple of problems but nothing tricky.


Creaking back into exercise after about a 3 weeks / a month off, and straight into my least favourite time of year - horrid, sweaty clag.

[Nibile]

STG - one last project on the board; go try the route at least once.

Mon - rest.
Tue - rest.
Wed - max Fingerboarding, not bad despite two months since last complete session and 21 degress with 67% humidity. I did: incut rung back3 half crimp one arm 3x2 hangs (one max one sub max); incut rung four fingers half crimp one arm with added weight x2 (16 kg left, 20 right); two armed index and middle monos + 20 kg x2; two armed mid2 small pockets + 20 kg x2; one arm index and middle monos x2; one arm mid2 small pockets x2. Phew! Overhead and shoulder carry, 2'+1'; dumbbell complex x3'x2. Tired. Good session, fantastic to be back on the BM. Mega psyched, received the new holds for proper endurance training! 8c+.
Thu - climbing class. Foot on campusing. Hot and sweaty. Forearm Doms, heavy heavy FB session on Wednesday. More to come!
Fri - rest. Heavy forearms Doms! Love them.
Sat - ab wheel with pause x2, very tiring; muscle snatch 10x5x35 kg; dumbbell complex 3'. Forearms still tight and achey. Very happy about doing the ab wheel in the new, proper way, that is with some posterior pelvic tilt to avoid lower back hyperextension, which is the aim of the excercise. Harder. I get Doms indeed despite not changing reps and time of pauses. 
Sun - contrast training, brilliant ! Some light PE endurance on the new holds, that are fantastic, 2'x3. Forearms still tired, what have I done on Wednesday? Protocol 4 x1, with Cleans, Jumps, Core Jumps, Mirror Boxing. Very tired.

Good week despite too much alcohol and dining out.

[filz]

STG: improve my shape for sport routes doing more AnCap and AeroCap training
MTG: tick some routes (by end of summer)

Mon: fb max hangs. weighted pullups
Tue: board climbing. Short hard problems. Good session
Wed: short bodyweight session during lunch break. push ups, L-sits, headstand, handstands. Tired.
Thu: board climbing. AnCap training: 1x9 45-60" with 90" rests. AeroCap 10'. Still tired
Fri: forearm doms. Some hiit and tabata
Sat: nothing
Sun: fb and board climbing. Another good session

[T_B]

M - School lunch. 50 deg. V close (held 36 twice) on Pegos.
T - Foundry lunch. Wave inc 3 x Level 3s.
W - School lunch. Completed 10 x 13-move problem with 80 secs rest. Felt good!
T -  Lunch run 8Km / 100m
F - Foundry lunch. AeroCap HI. P.m. Run Mam Tor - Grindslow Knoll - Mam Tor 13.5Km / 896m
S -
S -

A wk of training. Will get on the rock this coming wk, plus fell race Saturday.

[cheque]

STG Get endurance again. Tick a route at Raven Tor.
MTG (by late Autumn 2016)- Finish film while making progress towards LTG.
LTG (by end Nov 2019)- 8a.

M- Rest.

Tu- Awesome Walls- 30ish blasts on autobelay. Of the nine routes I onsighted the five graded 4+ - 6a+ and could recover on most all of them when climbing them again, but fell at the same height (~3-4m from the top) on each of the four routes graded 6b - 7a. Taking this as a sign that my climbing is good but my fitness isn't! It'll be a bit better next time after this session though of course. 

W- Rest. Sore.

Th- Millstone sorting out some abseiling logistics for filming. Good entertainment for the camping stoners near Keyhole Cave. 

F- Rest.

Sa- Filming at Gogarth. Totally exhausting slog from Breakwater carpark to Wen Zawn with 20+kg set up for a knackering but fun & productive day. Beautiful weather.

Su- Rest. Destroyed.

Being fit enough for two day's filming in a row is the new challenge. I suspect the only way to acheive that is just to do it. Getting dehydrated is a big cause but more water= more weight to carry...

I read a very useful book this week (McKenzie, "Treat your own back") which means I now properly understand why I get back pain and how to fix it. I adjusted the lumber support in my car, had a stretch between driving and carrying and it feels fine. 

[Coops_13]

STG: Heal knee
MTG: Get solid on 7B/+ boulder and 7b/+ sport
LTG: 8A & 8a

M:
T:
W:
T: Flew to Lyon for a boozy weekend
F: Watched Quins lose to Montpellier  for Ben Botica
S: Watched Sarries beat Racing 92, one time Sarries fan...
S: Nice 10km cycle round Lyon on their Boris bikes, knee held up well. A bit achey towards the end...

No climbing this week, home from Lyon this morning and off to Berlin this eve with work. Will get back on it after...

[duncan]

STG (June): rehab. finger & knee shoulder. 6c at Ceuse (Zagreb); sea-cliff E4.
MTG (September): Excalibur, Wendenstock; Rabada-Navarro, Naranjo de Bulnes; sea-cliff E5.
LTG: Something long, hard and free (and ideally in condition in August).


M -
T - Brief fingerboard - worked up to large slots x 4 seconds
W - Shoulder sore. Bugger.
T -
F - Very brief shoulder exercises.  More sore, a bit too soon.
S -
S - Very brief shoulder exercises, felt OK.

Bollocks. I was planning an easier week but not this easy. Hit a pothole on the road to Céüse but hopefully no structural damage. Had to cancel trip to Pembroke, sorry to the people affected but it looks like you all achieved something. I guess this means the finger is no longer the weakest link. I’m calling the knee fixed, which is a big bonus as I was on crutches two and a bit months ago and had wondered if meniscus operation might be needed.

Plan: cautious recovery, don’t get injured. Family trip to Font. in two weeks, Céüse in three weeks.

[SA Chris]

M - nothing. Wiped from being up all night photographing Aurora.
T - mowed lawn
W - was going to do some easy climbing on coast, but bought a new surfboard instead.
T- not much
F- climbed a tree to help a mate with some gardening.
S- went to hospital to get thumb X rayed checked out - at least it's not broken. Went shopping for a road bike on the B2W scheme. I may join the dark side and get a road bike. Took Kyle out to practice cycling without stabilisers. Knackering.
S - Load of crap to the local dump. Some weigtht in evening.

Feeling a bit demoralised about thumb. While not broken, there's no way I can even bend it enough to crimp, let alone put any force on it.

[SA Chris]

6c at Ceuse (Zagreb)

Worthy objective, one of the most memorable sport routes I've ever done.

[Dexter]

STG: Louis armstrong
MTG: finish current 8B projects, keen roof, bigger belly and the ace. Maybe find a new project too?
LTG: Hubble

m; Rest, went for a 5k run
t; Wall session mostly on the board making udercut problems
w; Wall session mostly on the board
t;Wall session mostly on the board  felt pretty tired and probably shouldn't have climbed
f; Rest
s; Rest
s; another day in the cave. Switched up my sequence for the start on Louis. Now doing the big cross through move as it feels harder but more consistent, plus easier to move out from. Got from the start to the jump move but couldn't really move off the two undercuts. Got the end a bit more dialled. Not exactly what I was hoping but progress nonetheless. Also jumped on pilgrim to see what it was like. Turns out I suck at power endurance.


All in all an ok week

[tomtom]

Crack on Shark - looks like a typical pattern of two steps forward one step back.. cooler temps this week - still life in the pre-autumn season yet...

Just back from having the thing removed from my back - which due to the position and number of stitches means I won't be climbing for the next week. Still, the damned spot is out - which is good news.

M: Wubicon on the way from Manc > Hull.. a bit of a rushed session but made progress..

T: Work

We: Played 5 a side for an hour. Destroyed. Recuperation was a 2 hour drive...

Th: Up early and out to Rubiconandonandon again... I had DOMs where I didnt know it was possible to have DOMs post football.. legs were very stiff and sub optimal.. Got tantelisingly close to A Bigger Tail... GRRRRRRRR..... But not in ideal shape ~



Fr:

Sa: Up early to Rubicon again... send day for sure! (not..) Refreshed, psyched, conditions OK, out of the sun in the AM.... meh... didn't have the bounce or float.. bottom half is now wired, but only got to the high sidepull/crimp once early on. It'll come, but annoyingly not this week... Was a good group at Kudos - hello to James, Ellie & Rob.

Su: Knowing that I was probably not going to be able to climb for the next week I snuck out to Harmers in the evening.. came (again) very close to a 7A+ I've not done...

[36chambers]

looks like a lot of progress to me Shark.

STG: Go to crookrise. Go sport climbing
MTG: ?
LTG: Profit

M: Almscliff. Warm, but somehow managed to climb Streaky's Traverse 7B+ quickly
T: Gym ball core workout W6
W: Hunter's Stone to try Hunter's Roof 7C. Almost forgot about this problem, tried it a year ago and this time made good progress in the 3 attempts I had before being rained off. Back to the car within the hour.
T: Caley avec crew. Team send of One Man and His Dogmas (old school E5) highball easy 7. The bloc stands high on a grassy ledge with a Malham-esque catwalk for the landing (so you top out at the full height of Caley main crag). Although it is very unlikely one would fall off the ledge, it still feels intimidating when you look out over the crag. The last move involves an off balance lunge for the top (a jug), which turns out was beyond my reach. So for me the last move was an off balance, all contact off, pop to said jug. Which was pretty damn exciting indeed. Easily one of the best climbing moments of this year        
F: Night out dining and dancing
S: Hangover, managed to make it to Almscliff to snooze in the sun
S: Crookrise, finally! Finally got to have a play on Jason's Roof 7C+. It's good and it's quite hard. Had a look at the pixie tits groove project. It looks so unbelievably doable that I don't believe it hasn't been done*. *I didn't actually try it however. 

Another week of no training. oh well.

[mr chaz]

Does anyone else have real difficulty trying to remember wtf they actually did each week?
anyway..

LTG 8b
STG more 8as

M. Power endurance on campus board
T.
W. 45 degree board.
T. Power endurance on campus board
F.
S. Drove to hull with my mate for a house party, went big.
S. Drive back from Hull.

Would like to get back to 4 sessions a week, and less 

[T_B]

Does anyone else have real difficulty trying to remember wtf they actually did each week?
anyway..

#trainingdiary

[monkoffunk]

Does anyone else have real difficulty trying to remember wtf they actually did each week?
anyway..

Sadly I keep a note on my phone that I update as I go along.

STG: Font 7A+, the plan is to try a few on Tuesday.
MTG: 1. French 7c+, before 1/1/17. Maybe one on Portland or Swanage. Any recommendations? Want to have other reasons to try route asides from grade. 2. Tick unfinished business list (4/13).
LTG: 1. Cider Soak and Academic, before 1/1/18. 2. Font 7B+, before 1/1/18.

M - Woke feeling groggy and horrible. Think unusual consumption of bread and cake the day before responsible. Improved with coffee. Examining students during day. Sold rope acquired in Cheddar a few weeks ago after that, thank god! Red Spider evening. Board session. Slightly low on skin. Starting to feel hot inside! Reasonable goes on project replica and harder version. Ran out of skin. Couple laps up slopey campus balls. Core.
T - Set of weighted locks pyramid.
W - Rest.
T - Optimistic Portland trip. Heavy rain on arrival but forecast to clear. Bit of a wander round wet bouldering areas for bit of a reccy. Rain stopped. Hit up Cheyne Wears. Dried out however horrible haze out to sea and humidity around 97%. Chalk turning to paste on the holds. Got on Road Rage 7b+, probably the best route I've been on, but no hope of redpoint with conditions. Greased off on a few redpoints. Moves all easy though, so maybe next time with slightly better conditions! Mark did Illusions which was pretty impressive all things considered. Escaped in the afternoon when the rain started. 5 mins down the road, absolutely tipped it down. Roads flooded, visibility to zero with wipers on full, thunder and lightening. Really pleased not stuck down at Cheyne Wears, would have been a nightmare.
F - Anderson style finger board session post work. So hot, even at 11pm! Windows open, still felt really hard.
S - Rest
S - Had a chat with Mark on Thurs about benefit of this locks pyramid thing I've been doing. Feeling that perhaps it is less beneficial than other things I could be doing as mostly biceps are rarely limiting factor, and therefore locks not most useful way to spend time and detriment to recovery/injury risk.
Anyway, one pulley seemed slightly tweaky post fingerboard session, and I want to rest Monday, so figured locks were better than nothing and did it again. Felt good! To be fair I'm mostly open handing/pinching the rock rings, so it is improving forearms and grip. Don't think totally useless as wouldn't have been doing anything else.

Pretty good week given limited time and working the weekend. Cue a lot of complaining about conditions!

[tomtom]

Does anyone else have real difficulty trying to remember wtf they actually did each week?
anyway..

#trainingdiary

I make it all up every week.

My real name is Barbara from Rotherham and I'm a professional couponeer. I weigh 22 stone and sit on my fat arse all day watching daytime TV and eating processed cheese based products. 

[36chambers]

Does anyone else have real difficulty trying to remember wtf they actually did each week?
anyway..

#trainingdiary

I make it all up every week.

My real name is Barbara from Rotherham and I'm a professional couponeer. I weigh 22 stone and sit on my fat arse all day watching daytime TV and eating processed cheese based products.

I usually have to ask the gf.

[Luke Owens]

M: Lunch: 50 Crunches
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
10 Knee tucks
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
10 Knee tucks
50 Crunches

T: Lunch:
3 x 10 Press-Ups
3 x 20 Sec L-Hangs  (Paddle legs)
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
Shoulder antags with weights

Eve: Plas Power - Humid and warm!

3 x 5 min on 5 min off Low Intensity AeroCap

5 x 30 move Circuit (1:45 on 3:30 rest)

10 minute ARC warm down

W: Lunch: Core and Antags

T: Rhiw Goch - Bad decision going there in 20+ degrees. It's all steep powerful climbing on incut crimps. Almost did the last move on the 7A+ I tried years ago and did all the moves on the 7B. Felt like I should of been able to do one of the problems but they should feel easier in better conditions.

F: Rest

S: Rest

S: First time at Gallt Yr Ogof - Did 6A and 2 6B/+. Split a tip on a nails 6C so sacked it off. Tried a crimpy 7B in the sun and could barely pull on. Neither could my mate who climbs 7C so can't complain.

Went to Caseg Fraith - Fell off the last move of the 7A/+ reverse of Boneyard twice, got better beta to go to the top with the other hand and couldn't get back to my same highpoint. Kept powering out on a 6 move problem...

Went to Craig Y Llyn - Tried 2 7A's couldn't do one of the moves on both and felt knackered. Went for the 6C+ as a consolation tick for the day and completely punted the last easy move on my 3rd go. Then same as earlier couldn't get back to the same point.



Anyone got any tips of how to get multiple decent goes on problems on a full day out? I feel tired after about 3 goes on a problem at my limit and then it's downhill after that, even if I rest for ages between goes.

[SA Chris]

I usually have to ask the gf.

She'll only remember if you are wrong.

[tomtom]

Anyone got any tips of how to get multiple decent goes on problems on a full day out? I feel tired after about 3 goes on a problem at my limit and then it's downhill after that, even if I rest for ages between goes.

Some problems are just like that... they just sap all your strength. If you can only get out for a full day every now and then (so it feels like a wasted day after 3 attempts) try picking somehwere with a range of problems.. e.g. if you get tired after doing something overhanging / powerful - go somewhere where theres a crimpy wall or a dyno etc..

[Luke Owens]

Anyone got any tips of how to get multiple decent goes on problems on a full day out? I feel tired after about 3 goes on a problem at my limit and then it's downhill after that, even if I rest for ages between goes.

Some problems are just like that... they just sap all your strength. If you can only get out for a full day every now and then (so it feels like a wasted day after 3 attempts) try picking somehwere with a range of problems.. e.g. if you get tired after doing something overhanging / powerful - go somewhere where theres a crimpy wall or a dyno etc..

Good call, cheers Tom, I think the number of moves makes a difference for me too. I still seem to be OK on problems that are ~3 moves long even when tired.

As for changing the problem angle/type/style that's pretty obvious and something that completely slipped my mind!

Cheers!