[shark]

it's all choss anyway.

 

[andy_e]

it's all choss anyway.

Ah, so there is limestone bouldering in Yorkshire after all!

[SA Chris]

Yes, Wetherby.

Veels geluk Dom.

M- thumb fucked, giving climbing a rest did little.
T - mowed lawn. Well front lawn before it got dark.
W - walk and photo session. Got to a bit of the coast I've not been to in a while, took photos until it got dark.
T - core session
F - not much
S - another photo walk in morning. Lovely morning, spotted Black Guillemot. Afternoon in park flying kites with kids. Well, I say with, they were bored after 5 mins so went on playpark and left me to it.
S - walk in woods with kids.

Thumb worryingly sore, might get second opinion.

[36chambers]

W - walk and photo session. Got to a bit of the coast I've not been to in a while, took photos until it got dark.

that's a lot of selfies.

[SA Chris]

I bet you think this song is about you..

[Dexter]

It's been a while since I posted on here but getting back outdoors has psyched me back up so here goes

STG: Louis armstrong in the cave
MTG: Do a few more 8B's, probably keen roof, bigger belly and the ace
LTG: Hubble

M: Went to the cave, tried Louis armstrong and got all the moves done, also did rock atrocity
T: Wall session fairly knackered from monday but managed to finish up with some care and such
W: Rest
T: Another rest, did a tiny bit of core
F: Comp at the local wall
S: Went for a 6k run and did some core
S: Wall session, fairly poor as it was way too hot

[cheque]

STG Get endurance again. Tick a route at Raven Tor.
MTG (by late Autumn 2016)- Finish film while making progress towards LTG.
LTG (by end Nov 2019)- 8a.

M- Rest.

Tu- Rest.

W- Bell Hagg. Soloing/ gardening whilst soloing up to HVS. Then bouldered a bit. Too much as I wore my skin quite a lot. Lovely evening :D

Th- Rest.

F- Rest.

Sa- AM- Raven Tor with sympathetic partner who also gets spanked every time they visit and wants to improve. We wanted to get to on Sardine or Tin Of but both were busy so ended up on the boulderier Super High Intensity Bodybuilding. After sorting the sequence I could make it to the first bolt (less pathetic than it sounds...) consistently but with very little left in the tank. With rising temps and diminishing skin I failed to stick the hard move between this and the next bolt, which I believe is the last hard one. Completely done but discussion somehow turned to how I've never learnt to climb continuous cracks, always freeze when attampting to lead them and are thus highly intimidated by Millstone...

PM- Millstone. Hot 'n' humid. Seconded Embankment 3 and Time for Tea Original with about 6 hangs on the rope each.  Seconded Dexterity clean but needed to fight. Lower back really tight/ painful by the end of the day.

Su- Rest. Sore as fuck. Sore in parts of my forearms I've never been sore in before. Back painful too but did loads of stretching and it feels largely better today.

Stormy weather (there's a cue for a song there) at the weekend put paid to filming at the seaside this week, but I'm back to the pattern of working on that most spare time with a few climbing sessions thrown in. Tried harder than I've tried for ages on Saturday though- makes me realise that I've long been in the habit of never trying 100%, even on a toprope or over pads. Learning to climb thin cracks (or, more realistically starting to learn) was awesome, as was flailing at the Tor. Hopefully back to both before too long.

[Coops_13]

STG: Heal knee
MTG: Get solid on 7B/+ boulder and 7b/+ sport
LTG: 8A & 8a

M:
T: Tried out bouldering on knee, physio said do 30 mins, did 50  Knee sore after... Then core session
W:
T:
F: Drove to Lake District (from London) 
S: Had an hour at Bowderstone before doing more conventional things with the girlfriend. Did Picnic Sarcastic, first tried four or so years ago. Tweaked some heel beta, chucked on a new shoe and sent!

S: Short walk up a few fells then drove home via Bolton Castle.

Very pleased to get Picnic Sarcastic, long-standing project of mine. Also, glad the knee held up climbing. Still not feeling quite right but I have a busy couple of weeks coming up so it'll get lots of rest

[petejh]

LTG: Hubble

Now there's a goal!


STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), by mid June
MTG: undecided
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Power & Longer bouldering phase

M. Fairhead. Descended to bottom of cliff, sat around playing eye-spy and the fizz-bang-boom game while waiting to see if it would get warm/dry enough to climb. It didn't so we bailed to Cushenden potato cave and played on the probs. Place needs bolting: Maple Canyon-on-sea.
T. Flew back.
W. Tried to go for a campus sesh but locked out. Frustrated with mill, not going to bother with it again.
T. Boardroom campus board after work. First sesh since last spring. Managed 1-4-6 on the small rungs (moon spacing, 22cm I think) both hands, 1-5-slap on the medium rungs.
F.
S. Gallery for a pump. Warmed up on the 6b, got halfway up a 6c then it started raining hard. Gallery's sort of good sort of a bit shite, still haven't had a good sesh there but I bet I could! Bailed to Hornby Crags on the orme. 6b, 6c+, 7a+. Good routes.
S. Pass. In a weird frame of mind. Tried to warm up on Edge Problem in 23 degree warmth, not a plan. Lazed around in the shade of the van in CC carpark for a few hours listening to Blood Sex and Money. Went to Jerry's Roof, couldn't hold even the big slopey ledge in the warmth. Hung around, eventually it cooled into the evening. Linked from tourist start through crux, could have finished it but didn't know where to go. Turned into a decent sesh eventually. Got home and watched some video beta for next time.

Strange week, work stressful, tired, post holiday blues. Psyched for Jerry's even though the holds are too big to be beneficial training for Mecca (and the start is a rubbish arse drag)

[Dexter]

LTG: Hubble

Now there's a goal!

gotta aim big, that's the point of a LTG right?

[monkoffunk]

I think I need to up my LTG, I've heard the oak is pretty good?

[ashtond6]

S - Two tier, repeated quality control 7a, totally totally spanked on Countdown... was terrible conditions though. But really 7a+? Checked the moves on mind of the turbot for the following day

Unless someone has fixed it the big sidepull at the start fell off 1/2 years ago and has made it much harder. The flake should still be in the bushes at the bottom.

It's up to 7b in the new guide isn't it?

Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

Seems bloody hard even for 7b! I couldn't even get to the 'crux' 

[AndyR]

Sat: stretching; fantastic session at Tunnel Point, a new and unique (for the region) basalt cliff halfway between Squamish and Vancouver. Managed my fastest ever redpoint of a .12c - it must be soft.

I like the sound of that - worth a visit?
When will your new supercrag be unveiled?

[Luke Owens]

Congrats Dom, effort Nai!

Not sure why but I forgot to post last week, here's a double:

25th April - 1st May

M: Rest

T: Lunch: 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
5 Leg raises (Feet to bar)
10 Knee tucks
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
5 Leg raises (Feet to bar)
10 Knee tucks
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)

Eve: Foot-on Campusing - 5 x 1:30min (3mins Rest)
Failed on 1:20min of 5th set.

W: Plas Power - Running late so did a quicker than usual warm up on problems up to 6Bish.

A mate had come to check out the boards so demoed some problems.

20' Board - 5+, 6A+, 7A, 7A, 7A, 7A+
45' Board - 6B+, 6C+, 7A

Tried to come up with some new projects on the board, got something cool going on with some pockets and pinches.

T: Stretching and Antags

F: Stretching and Antags

S: Llanddulas - Freezing cold, had to take on the 6b warm up as I couldn't feel a thing. Felt really crampy warming up.

Worked the moves on "Sticky Fingers" - 7b+. Did all the moves straight off apart from the last move to easy ground which despite tying in 3 times to try it I couldn't figure it out.

Did a link from the floor to the crux (about 10 moves) and arms were boxed, completely pumped solid, fitness is terrible.

S: Rest - Horrible amount of DOMs in my forearms, felt ill.

2nd May - 8th May

M: Foot-On Campusing - 8 x On until failure resting half of work time between rests. Rested 20 mins and did another 8 reps. Brutal.

T - F: ill

S:  Felt better went to the Cromlech with the little one - Tried "Ultimate Retro Party" (7B) couldn't figure out one of the moves, maybe do-able with more work.

Did "The Blunt" (6C) took ages, felt nails.

Had a quick look at "The Sting" (7B) couldn't pull on the crimps in +20 Degree temps.

S: The Pass - Wavelength Hillside - Did "Gav's Sitter" (7A) excellent underrated problem. Trashed some skin on it.

Went up the Meadow and did "Killer Weed" (6C+) and "Meadow Roof" (6C) both really good.

Nipped back down the hill to try "Arse Soul" (7A) fell off the last move 3 times, slopers were in the full sun so not too grippy!

[filz]

Congrats Dom!

M: farmer's walk, headstands, squat jump, plank, tabata
T: board climbing. Tired
W: rest
T: AnCap and AeroCap. Still tired. Bad session
F: rest
S: bouldering. Too hot, not much psyched and had some sore fingers so I didn't try hard, but had a couple of good goes on a 7b+ I'm hoping to do next winter
S: Board climbing. This was the only good session of the week

I'm starting a phase with some more AnCap and AeroCap.
My aim is to do at least a session a week focused on AnCap with some AeroCap at the end so I get to a decent form to try some routes.

[mr chaz]

STG more 8as (Mussel Beach amongst others)
MTG 8b , Turkey trip in the pipeline for November
LTG Hubble, before Dexter.

Alright week.

M. Power endurance on campus board. Starting to see improvement after a couple of weeks.
T. Light bouldering indoors.
W. 45 degree beastmaker board session.
T. Power endurance on campus board.
F. F*cking women  . Start of 2 day bender.
S. ... bender continues...
S. Went to wall for a nice lie down.

[Coops_13]

F. F*cking women 

Lad 

[Dexter]

LTG Hubble, before Dexter.

Oh it's on

[duncan]

Tempi Moderni should be plenty hard enough.

Tempi Moderni is a great suggestion and definitely on the list, it was the original objective of my last (2013) trip to Italy but high temperatures kept us on the N. Faces. The Dolomites are a possible venue for summer 2017. There are plenty of others like it, Romantic Warrior at The Needles, one of the big Verdon routes (not August but doable in a long weekend), La Guerre Sainte in Wadi Rum (not August or a long weekend): all magnificent and borderline possible. For me though, a proper long-term goal has to have a personal meaning beyond quality and the right difficulty.

The Rabada-Navarro has it as the subject of my first ever climbing slide-show at Uni., even though it is relatively easy. Chant du Cygne has it from reading The White Spider before I ever set foot on rock, but is probably a bit too exciting. The NIAD had it in spades.

RNWF on Half Dome was perfect, but since the two pitches dropped off it’s not the route Jim Erickson climbed, and it now feels a bit too dangerous. I’d love another Yosemite goal but it’s not really a summer venue and the obvious ideas, S. Face of Watkins or Freerider, are far too hard even to be BHAGs.

[Sasquatch]

STG - Drop weight
MTG - Local route projects - 8a/+?ish and 8c?ish
LTG - To Bolt

Week 2 of no climbing shoes...

M - Mtn bike 50min
T - Campus max ladders and Campus ancap
W - Strength work - 1hr, 20min bike ride
T - 60min mtn Bike
F - FB Max Hangs, Campus max ladders, Campus ancap
S - rest
S - FB Max Hangs, Campus Max Ladders

loads of hanging from edges this week.  actually felt good though, and managed to drop 3lbs over the week.

[webbo]

Mon. Board first climbing for 4 months. Just did the first part of my warm several times. No problems with mu Achilles.
Tue. Bike 18.10 miles 1 hr 4mins did a few hard efforts.
Wed. Physio. Bike 23.21 miles 1 hr 22 mins.
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. Day off. Bike 72.30 miles 4 hrs 19 mins hilly ride going ok.
Sat. Physio. Board similar session to Monday did a couple of harder things.
Sun. Bike 62.90 miles 3 hrs 29 mins. Did the first 50 miles at 19 mph+ then sort of blew up.
Pleased with how recovery is going. Review with surgeon next week.

[Hugh]

STG: 7B. Surely I can drag my arse up something at Neath soon...
MTG: Don't get broken. Get strong for Santa Gadea in June.

Another 2-in-1:

25th April:

Mon-Thu: Rest!
Fri: 4.5km run
Sat: More rest
Sun: FB, max hangs. Testing current max: worked up to 10s +28kg on 19mm edge - new p.b.

2nd May:

Mon: Bored of the usual stuff so did a few intervals at TCA (12 move x 4, 1:1 rest-duty cycle).
Tue: FB, max hangs. 10s +22kg x 3 19mm, fail at 7s rep 1, 5s rep 2, 3. Sloper 10s +28kg x 1, success. Poor session, probably still weak from max testing on Sun.
Wed: TCA, Moon board, smallish edges with dynamic moves. Still tired, skin fucked at end of session. Not sold on the Moon board, but it'll have to do for the moment.
Thu: Nowt.
Fri: TCA, mixed bouldering. Felt strong, power returning.
Sat: Run 4.5km.
Sun: FB, max hangs. 19mm 10s +22kg x 3. Success rep 1. 2, 3 fail on 9s. Sloper +28kg x 1, success.

[the_dom]

Thanks all 

[rodma]

Congrats dom.

My week was simple.
Spent Monday to Friday getting over shingles whilst knocking my pan in at work.
Saturday: van mods
Sunday: campussing at wall followed by completing van mods.

Too much time off training in the last two weeks, fingertips really tender. Still manage a couple of benchmark exercises but that may just be because I was still a little dehydrated.

Off to font this coming Saturday, so psyched regardless.

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

[a dense loner]

I know an empty gite you could stay at