[fried]

A week of pain, good pain.

M- Ached from Sunday's session on Jeu des jambes.
T - Ached even worst, found some muscles behind my armpits that I didn't know existed. This is unusual.
W - Indoors, still ached, but had a short but productive session doing steeper stuff.
Th - Rest
Fr - Rest
Sa - Took whole family to Canche aux merciers to do some kid's stuff and some yellows. 25° in the forest. Everyone tires quickly, so I have a few goes on Les doigts de l'Homme https://bleau.info/canche/3653.html, do the start, but can't repeat it. Have a few goes on Kaki Dehors next to it. Good finger workout.

Finish with a session on La grande classique https://bleau.info/canche/3646.html, work the sequence (which is all wrong), mis-slap on the topout, a video of me that the missus took shows me in horrible looking positions. Tired. Nearly fall asleep in the sun....
Su - I'm going to drink beer allday in the sun...with some wine to follow.

Fun week, that reminds me I need to do less slabs and more thuggy stuff, any recommendations ?

[JackAus]

I missed the last 3 weeks out of annoyance at my finger.

Quick summary of highlights:
Repeated Love Gun Stand V7 first go. Didn't hurt finger at all like I thought it would.
Fish Food V7 dyno.
Close to String Em Up V8/9. 2nd hold sharp on skinless fingers!

STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg. Finger recovery.
MTG: V9. Fear Factory List. 7/10 done. Have a fun NZ trip.
LTG: V11.

In abit of a mantle mood in prep for Castle Hill........

M: Rest.
T: St Leonards. New stuff. Did all bar hardest. Surprised myself. Flashed all bar 2? Finger limited me. Abit of core after.
W: Rest.
T: Twin Creeks and Funky Town.
TC for short time with mate to have a go on his project. Abit of a shitty landing and he only has one pad. Bad slopers were in the sun so couldn't do it but worked out all moves.
FT, old area lost in the bush near Fear Factory. Warmed back up (excluding bush bash walk in...) by doing jump start V6 mantle 3rd go. Had tried once before but couldn't even get established so very pleased to do this. Then finished off Green Goblin V4, weird slab with another tough mantle finish. Had bailed off this mantle last time here (18 months ago...). Then Skanky Ho V4, fell off mantle. 4m up, small pad, spikey tree, sharp rock... Heel popped when on top, plumetted backwards, just hit pad and shot off into the bush. Think I flipped, don't know... Somehow sprung between 2 small trees. Grazes all down inside of left leg and left forearm and sliced 3 tips open on the spikey tree leaf blades. They smart abit.... Still trekked all the way to the end for Hard Up Against My Belly V8. Could hold the positions but couldn't make any moves... Hard! Maybe when I have skin again...
F: Rest.
S: Frontline. Social climb with a group. Just did repeats. Eastern Block Arete V1, Crewcut V1, Sloper-dan Milosevic V5 2nd go (used heel for some reason... Never do this.), Boogie Knights V7 1st go, Who Killed The Kennedy's? V6 1st go, Lichen or Not V5 1st go, Hollow Mountiain Dreaming V7 2nd go.
S: The Villas. Short climb before meeting parents for mothers day. Warmed up by flashing a V4 and a V5. Then fell off weird slopey bulgy thing that is Help V6 and Help Into Rock On V7... Then jumped on Derailed V8. Was just down to one committing move that took a lot of attempts before I stuck it but I feel like I didn't do the problem properly. Haven't found a video of it and not many people have tried it because of the landing. Will try and find out and do it properly if I haven't already. Either way was good problem!

Who Killed The Kennedy's? Crux is now matching.




Derailed crux swing. Dyno out of a toe hook.

[the_dom]

Monday: Public holiday, so wandered the Topside in Cape Town - ticked a couple of 7s that I'd last done ages ago. Really fun afternoon out.
Tuesday: 20 min on the treadmill and some core work afterwards.
Wednesday: Deadlifts at lunch (elbow feels OK with the hook grip) and climbing in the afternoon. The local wall has been reset so did about 8 or 10 new problems in the 7A-7B+ish range.
Thursday: 20 min on the treadmill
Friday: Deadlifts at lunch and climbing in the afternoon. Did all the new problems in the 7A-7B+ish range and one or two older ones in the same grade range.
Saturday: 30 min on the treadmill. Got married.
Sunday: Morning session at the Topside. Was quite warm and I was quite hungover but was happy to drag myself up some 7s that I'd done years ago when I was strong.

A decent week - got some climbing in (and I got married - legally - the real celebration is in the Sud Tirol in early June - hence being able to get out for a boulder the next day, despite a rather brutal hangover)!

[tomtom]

Good post Jack...

An up and down week this week... Long bank holiday weekend ~ where I felt weak and had a headache nearly all weekend..

M: Dragged my arse out to Helsby - warmed up in the woods and went to play on the barrel buttress. Ended up getting getting up the 7A sit start that Elliot put up last summer... good.

Tu: Work (Hull) followed by doctors appointment in Manchester in the evening. He prescribes some blood tests (symptoms of general knackeredness are recurring) but also happens to be a dermatologist.. so he has a good prod of the carcinoma on my back, and says its definitely one of those (good a person says this rather than a letter based on a digital picture) - and that it doesnt look too bad and should come out easily. I feel suitably re-assured.

We: Felt trashed again - missed an important meeting in London. Felt like I was moping about at home, so went to Harmers and did most of the easier problems and I felt better for the movement..

Th: Two early morning skype meetings, then giving some blood samples. On to Rubicon :D Very weird session... I felt weak when I turned up and stuttered across the traverses, but then floated up the easy 6 straight ups... never felt that ~ straightforward before... odd.

OK - I have a hate hate relationship with the problems on Kudos wall. I can do a Millers Tale... but nothing else... no 7's at Rubicon for me.. I've had the closest times on A bigger splash - and a bigger tail has always left me snatching for the first LH crimp then twisting around and hurting my elbows. Anyway, I had a good go on A Bigger Tail (ABT) and instead of going up with the left, went right to the sidepull jug, and bizarrely found some footholds that worked and fairly casually reached up for the LH crimp. And dropped off in astonishment. I then was worse, then better, but ended up getting both high crimps fairly readily - then it got too hot. So rather surprisingly it feels like its going to go.. (shocked emoticon) - one for tomorrow morning...

I had plenty of beans left in the tank, so moved up to X - and spent 40 min flailing about on Pink Indians (that high crimp/edge/ripple really is shit isnt it!)... figured out some body position things and made some progress. Then core/arms went.

Fr: Waited in all day for some packages (wanted to get out but MrsTT decided to arrange a series of coffee shop/lunch meetings with friends etc..)... only two of three came Couple of MrsTT's cousins came up for the weekend in the evening.

Sa: Lazy morning, nice breakfast outside ~ picnic at Tatton, watched a film, then a huge curry.... a good (but lazy) day..

Su: Woke up feeling like I'd eaten too much the day before. Pottered around and headed to Helsby (woods) before it got too hot and sticky... reasonable session, but felt heavy, non, floaty, crimps were greasy.. did what I could and came home. 

[Duma]

Congrats Dom!

Goals:
Summer - lots of local sport, unfinished business with cider soak from 15 years ago, identify (and if possible do) candidates for:
8A and 8b by next June

69kg. (av.)

Body Audit: Shoulder a tiny bit tweaky still, but not an issue for the last week. Elbow felt a bit fonty on Tues but easier rest of week seems to have sorted it.

M:
T:  (think it was Tues) eve TCA on Red (6B+ to 7B+) problems. Good session, ticked off 5 or 6 I'd not done before that were mostly in the 7's I thought. Elbow felt a bit tweaky after.
W: Brief eve bimble Cheddar. most sub 6, but O/S a bouldery 7a so some power club benefit.
T: 1hr 30min mtb, sweaty fun. TCA with daughter after school, tried a red slab but no joy.
F: hr at TCA in eve, not much but managed a hard vert Red (~7B/+) and decent link (start to 30) on my wooden circuit project (8a+ ish)
S: work 12hrs
S: work 12hrs

[tomtom]

Congrats Dom!

Shit - forgot to say congrats too! Hope it didnt get in the way of training too much

[T_B]

M - P.M. Short 4Km run to get legs moving.
T - School lunch. Mainly 50 deg. Dragged my increasingly-large legs up Basic Jez, Woodology and Total Recoil. P.M. Burbage Skyline fell race. 1:00:52 (214th out of 338). Had wanted to get round in under an hour, so not too disappointed but lost a lot of time early on due to the crowds. However, did struggle for a while across Burbage North when half a dozen people passed me. Hoping I'm going to be better at longer races.
W -
T - School lunch. AnCap circuit (13-moves in 45 secs, 80 secs rest). 9 reps, with a couple of slips off. Better than a few weeks ago. P.M. Ran home from work.
F - Foundry lunch, LI AeroCap.
S - P.M. Kinder by Blackden Brook, descended then back up again to Fairbrook Naze. 12Km / 642m.
S - Short repeaters session, front 3 6 x 7 (x2). Couldn't have done back 3 or half crimp, definitely feels like I haven't been on the FB for a while.

Two good School sessions, one cool fell race and a brill weekend run.

[nai]

Congrats Dom

STG - Raindogs, Call of Nature and other Peak WIPS

M - extended weekend so family walk followed by a reluctant visit to a Carvery where it seems to be impossible not to have an attack of gluttony.

T - Weighed in heavy as expected. Tor windy and cold. 6 redpoints all failing about the same place. 3rd RPing session after 2 working sessions and startiong to feel a bit tiresome.

w rest

Th - Nettle after a lot of faff so short of time (river freezing and high, btw).  Straight on Stung without warming up so bolt to bolting barely trying any moves. Second burn worked all sections, 3rd fell off faffing with clips and feet. Reworked and reconsidered tactics but no time to go again. Poor effort, very amateur.

F - Somehow 1.5kg lighter than Tuesday.  Tor was warm enough for shorts, fingers weren't frozen by the time I reached the minging crimp on the crux and I only went and blinking well did it. 3rd go on the day I think and about 25th time from the ground, couple of minor post-crux wobbles but generally steady and solid all the way.

S 22km family bike ride but verrrry slowly so CV system not really challenged.

S - nowt, made a portable fingerboard and some minging crimps for my board.

Very happy to get Call done, in previous years I hadn't been able to link the crux or make the throw to the sika from the floor so it seems the training plan could well be working,  Super psyched to try Why Me? now, of all the Peak routes I have as WIPs this is the one I'd like to do most.

[Muenchener]

 STG (May): Frankenjura 7a 7a+ redpoint
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

Congratulations Dom.

Frankenjura long weekend

M: Bike one hour.
T: Wall, Boulderwelt with M jnr. Training goal for today: don't get hurt, don't get tired. But there was a new 6B/C circuit up, and it was hard to resist the temptation to go hunting for easy ticks. So I didn't. Ticked four, three of them flashes.
W: drive to Frankenjura
T: Frankenjura, Hexenküche. A 7a and a 6c+ that I had my eye on were wet, but onsighted a proper old skool Frankenjura 6b+ with proper old skool Frankenjura runouts, which felt like a pretty good start to the trip.
F: Frankenjura, Stierberger Gemsenwand. Did my first 7a+, which surprised me. yyyfy? Almost felt like an anticlimax tbh: the closest I've ever come to pure bouldering-on-a-rope. It was a direct variation on an easy route, and the actual climbing came down to three moves. Bouldered it out a few times, rested, did it on the third serious attempt. No big resting/psyching up for redpoint burns or anything. Still, a tick is a tick, you have to start somewhere.
S: Frankenjura, rest day. Pottered about on some easy routes and watched my mates exerting themselves.
S: Frankenjura, Weisse Wand. Wanted to have a look at the actual 7a+ proj, but it is a gleaming white south facing slab on little slopy edges, so given the freak sunny weather it wasn't looking good. Got on it anyway, got a couple of moves further into the crux section than last year and got used to falling off it from that position. So, progress. Progress is good. Wrapped up the day on a proper Frankenjura 6b: straightforward slightly overhanging pumpy pocket pulling. Lovely. It even had four bolts in fifteen metres instead of the usual three.

[Murph]

Congrats Dom. 

STG - Stop being so greedy and get the weight down to 63 (currently post-holiday 69). Train consistently. Get my 7A and easier ticklist ticked esp Nose, Early, Marks, Crescent, Sheep & Conan.
MTG - keep weight down. Train consistently. Get the 7B ticklist ticked esp Piss, G, Marks & Kidney.
LTG - 63kgs. Train. Harder than 7B.

2 weeks ago
M-rest. Proper knackered.
T-150 press ups, 30 pull ups, 45 leg raises, 45 minutes stretching
W-Works lunchtime. Multicoloured session including finding a few wasps fairly easy.
150 press ups, 30 pull ups, 45 leg raises, stretching including finding the secret way of touching toes. Who would have known my past difficulty was because of bending wrong?
T-Works session. Flashed every pinkle. Finished a few wasps but with more difficulty. Was supposed to be a hard session but got distracted.
F-lots of stretching
S,S-holiday to Oban area. Ate like a pig.

This week
M,T,W,T,F,S-more holiday
S-150 press ups, 21 pull ups with +8kgs, 45 leg raises, 40 minutes stretching. Pleased with all this considering and think I should up the leg raise difficulty or reps.
Finger board - pretty good session considering the rest and extra belly timber. Pretty much the same added weight as last FB session and up to +20kgs on 35deg sloper.

Next week - need to sort the weight situation out, get a couple of hard sessions in either on the board, wall or ticklist.

[shark]

Congrats Dom

11.0-2

M. Afternoon. Bank holiday. Up with Sonia and Poppy. Met Charlotte there. Nice and cool. Saltbeef and Wil also on the Oak. Was feeling confident that today would be the day. nice Cool conditions. First go dogging felt good on top traverese. Went for a walk round the Cove. Did some hangs when back then had a go. Straight away things felt wrong - like the conditions had crapped out. Got through to the horn though but struggled to get traction on foothold out right and fell going for sloper. Couldnt work out what happened. Came down and discovered that toe piece of my Whites had bagged with toes soft and squidgy. Trouble is when they go, they go. And I didnt have a replacement pair with me. Two more redpoints getting but not holding the horn. Final go tired did it in sections. Fuckity fuck. At least had a pleasant meal and couple of pints in the Listers. Good to watch Bosi do Rainshadow
T.
W.
T. PM. Up with Nick D and Heliya. Left late because of hot forecast. 19.5 degrees (compared to 2.5degrees the previous thursday) Cons x 3. Dogged up. 3 or 4 goes from ground failing to get past first bolt!  Wil and Tom turned up. Last go managed to get to undercut by third bolt and then in two sections to top. Dreadful performance. Despondent
F. Eve. Dragged sorry arse down Foundry as too warm outside for grit. Did some level 2s then eventually ticked tricky pink up middle of steep section. Got stuck into a butch yellow to its left and did in two halves. Was doing as well as IT Ed which was encouraging
S. PM. CragX Air temp OK but holds slippy. Dave H and Stone already there. Got up to matchig rail on JR 3/4 times but failing to hold funny pinch after. Bob H, Char and Johnny Brown turned up. Never seen it so busy. Gratifyingly they did no better than me. Headed to Tor. Circus. Had a few attempts on start of Ben's. Futile. Went home
S. Glorious sunny day. Family trip to the Churnet (good tip JB). Went up to Wrights with Nick. Excited to go to a new crag. Lovely countryside. Quite busy at crag. Spent over an hour before finally sticking the final hold on Rocket Ride 6C+ and then despatched Wrights Unconquerable 7A+ in 20 mins which was more my cuppa. Both great problems. Then went to Nick's for an extremely pleasant BBQ. Superb day out.     

Feel I squandered another opportunity to do the Oak on Monday. In need of a short break from it but will go back on friday if the cool forecast for then holds.

[ashtond6]

Good effort Nai!
Unlucky Shark, you couldn't have known - whites get bad randomly I find.

M - tired from weekend, went to rivelin, flashed 6B+, rained...
T - rest
W - Anston Stones, flashed 6B+, did a good 6C, struggled on the 7As. I thought the crag felt hard.
T - rest, long walk
F - rest
S - Two tier, repeated quality control 7a, totally totally spanked on Countdown... was terrible conditions though. But really 7a+? Checked the moves on mind of the turbot for the following day
S - Embankment to see some old friends, did Mind of the Turbot 7b 1st try today which was good. Had tried it last year but a long while ago. Spanked on Hungry Eyes but it was the end of a long weekend

[nik at work]

M - nowt
T - evening session outside, repeat a couple of routes.
W - nowt
T - nowt
F - pop out for the shortest of short sessions on the traverse wall. Just do the basic traverse then it' slime to leave. Pointless training wise but it was a nice afternoon weather wise.
S/S - wife away so entertaining children and dog.

Congrats Dom

[Wood FT]

S - Two tier, repeated quality control 7a, totally totally spanked on Countdown... was terrible conditions though. But really 7a+? Checked the moves on mind of the turbot for the following day

Unless someone has fixed it the big sidepull at the start fell off 1/2 years ago and has made it much harder. The flake should still be in the bushes at the bottom.

[monkoffunk]

STG: Font 7A+, hopefully will have some cool days bouldering soon!
MTG: 1. French 7c+, before 1/1/17. 2. Tick unfinished business list (4/13).
LTG: 1. Cider Soak and Academic, before 1/1/18. 2. Font 7B+, before 1/1/18.

M - Board session Red Spider. Pretty good! Did some moves that I couldn’t do before, similar to a project I have. Problem probably a lot harder though, steeper, smaller holds. Happy to get some links though. Must pull harder though, felt as if more effort to give!
T - Weighted lock offs pyramid rock rings. 7 sets: + 0-5-10-15-10-5-0 kg. 1 set is 7 sec on 3 off in 7 positions. At least 5 min rest between sets.
This was kind of an experiment. I don't know if it's pitched right at being enough (to get results...), but not too much (...whilst avoiding injury), for one session. Want to try it out as a supplementary tool for days when I'm on long shifts but when I've been doing something fingery the day before so don't want to get on finger board.
W - Core session followed by conditioning micro work out.
T - boulders at Red Spider. I suck balls. Can't climb anything. Oh well. Hopefully recruitment for Saturday. Also poor problem selection. Harsh on skin.
F - Rest
S - Cheddar falling off Seven Months later. Several goes. It was hot but no excuses. Fell off top section about five times including once with hand on last hold. Good resistance training though.
S - Rest. 

Not a bad week training in the end, but not a good week achieving anything. Will get out this Thursday, hopefully do a bit better.

Congrats all, sounds like lot of hard work going on!

[duncan]

Well done nai and Dom.

STG (June): rehab. finger & knee. 6c at Ceuse (Zagreb); sea-cliff E4.
MTG (September): Excalibur, Wendenstock; Rabada-Navarro, Naranjo de Bulnes; sea-cliff E5.
LTG: Something long, hard and free and in condition in August, tbc since demise of N.W. face of Half Dome.

M - Westway bouldering with offspring. Various red ~V3 and attempted white V3/4.
T - Knee exercises.
W - Westway Routes; Aerocap (5-6a). 7-8 minutes on x 5 sets, without buddy tape. ~250m.
T -
F -
S - Portland with Mike Highbury. Low tide 12-4pm, so went to Coastguard south. Objectively poor conditions: most of the crag was wet when we arrived, hot, humid and windless so dried slowly or not at all. Lovely to be by the sea and had a good day nonetheless. Did seven routes including the excellent Walking the King, mostly wet but the holds are so big it makes little difference.
S - Battered, sore shoulder. Picnic in the park in sun. Shoulder maintenance.

A pretty good week, attempting some slightly harder bouldering and had a good trip to the seaside. Wanted to try something a bit tougher outside but wasn't the day for it.

4 weeks to Ceuse. Continue bouldering and start PE in earnest. Don't get injured. Shoulder is a little tweaky, need to get on the shoulder exercises again as had been neglecting them slightly with the knee issue. Coming week set to be busy at work so may do more at home.

[nai]

S - Two tier, repeated quality control 7a, totally totally spanked on Countdown... was terrible conditions though. But really 7a+? Checked the moves on mind of the turbot for the following day

Unless someone has fixed it the big sidepull at the start fell off 1/2 years ago and has made it much harder. The flake should still be in the bushes at the bottom.

It's up to 7b in the new guide isn't it?

Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

[Nibile]

STG - go and try the route at least once before Summer really kicks in. Not easy though, lots of committments. Board project is over, temps in the low twenties already.

Mon - some weights. God I was weak... Good to be back training though.
Tue - rest.
Wed - standing ab-wheel, 3 x 2 with slight pause. Front lever pulls 6 x 2. Still a bit down but noticeably better. Muscle snatch 8 x 3. Snatch pulls 10 x 2. Nice one.
Thu - climbing class. Foot on campusing, one arm lock offs x 10. Brilliant. Hill sprintss x 6.
Fri - rest. Tired. Night out. Lots of alcohol.
Sat - drove to Melloblocco for Ben Moon's book presentation, very tired from the night before.
Sun - bouldering. Hot and crowdy, terrible skin. Had lots of fun though.

Mixed week, had to recover from my stomach bug and I was still very weak, but then it got better. Very little time meant no board climbing, but good foot on campusing session.
Not happy about current form, I've been very inconsistent. Very tiring weekend with too much booze and food.
Congrats Dom!

[Muenchener]

LTG: Something long, hard and free and in condition in August, tbc since demise of N.W. face of Half Dome.

Tempi Moderni should be plenty hard enough.

[Duma]

went to Coastguard south. Objectively poor conditions: most of the crag was wet when we arrived, hot, humid and windless so dried slowly or not at all. Lovely to be by the sea and had a good day nonetheless. Did seven routes including the excellent Walking the King

That's a great route, I miss Portland evenings by the sea.

[csl]

STG - the next 6 weeks

Go to Ceuse fit and strong, climb Privilege du Serpent
Lose a bit of weight - currently around 73kg
7c outside - away this weekend if weather plays ball so hopefully get up something.

MTG - next 3 months

Get some routes i've tried ticked off - Tennessee, VoTB, New Dawn, Dominatrix
or
Try some new ones and do them... - Gunfighter, Directoonima

LTG - end of year

8a

Mon

Rest

Tue

Biscuit Factory - Hard Boulders + AeroPow

Awful session on hard boulders - had no power. Dont think i ate enough in the day and felt awful at the wall in the evening.
Did manage an ok session of PE - linked boulders x 4 and laps on the circuit board.

Wed

Arch Building One - AeroPow

4x4 Boulders
1 min Foot on Campus into 15 move board problem x 5

Easier circuits after - varying levels of pump.

Thu

Castle - random bouldering

Lots of boulders up to V6. Most of the V4-6 circuit.

Fri

Rest

Sat

Rest

Sun

Pretty good aeropow session.

Made up a 18 move circuit on the 30º board. Did lots of laps on it, pretty pumpy and sustained so going to work on lapping this over the next few weeks.

Good week with lots of Power Endurance training - my limiting factor is painful skin, but mixing up styles and walls seems to be helping. 1 month till Ceuse so need 3 more weeks like this then a short taper. Heading out on the weeknd so hopefully get a measure of how im feeling on rock.

[36chambers]

Good work on Call Nai and congrats Dom

STG: Go to Crookrise. Go sport climbing.
MTG: Yorkshire Classics
LTG: 8B

M: Called in at Ilkley as driving past. Took a huge chunk out of my little finger falling off whilst warming up. Downhill from there.
T: Almscliff. GF sent Crucifix Traverse 7A. I was just pottering around.
W: New problems at a secret Crag.
T: Built a shelf above the stairs for storing the pads. Proud.
F: Almscliff. Split tip trying Matt's Roof 7B+. 
S: Brimham. Taking it easy. Climbed Pocket Drop Traverse 7A+ and Red Roof 7A+. Both good problems that I'm surprised I've overlooked till now.
S: Recently bought a mountain bike, went to Stainburn Forest to test it out. Didn't die. Pretty good day. 

No training and a warm week on the grit. Although I was quite happy just pottering about and not trying anything hard. Keen to try out this sport climbing lark, although I'm reluctant to voice my aims in case I find out that I'm still getting scared on 6a's. 

[andy_e]

W: New problems at a secret Crag.

[Coops_13]

Keen to try out this sport climbing lark, although I'm reluctant to voice my aims in case I find out that I'm still getting scared on 6a's.

get on it!

[36chambers]

W: New problems at a secret Crag.

All will be revealed eventually. I've already said too much...  it's all choss anyway.

[shark]

it's all choss anyway.

 

[andy_e]

it's all choss anyway.

Ah, so there is limestone bouldering in Yorkshire after all!

[SA Chris]

Yes, Wetherby.

Veels geluk Dom.

M- thumb fucked, giving climbing a rest did little.
T - mowed lawn. Well front lawn before it got dark.
W - walk and photo session. Got to a bit of the coast I've not been to in a while, took photos until it got dark.
T - core session
F - not much
S - another photo walk in morning. Lovely morning, spotted Black Guillemot. Afternoon in park flying kites with kids. Well, I say with, they were bored after 5 mins so went on playpark and left me to it.
S - walk in woods with kids.

Thumb worryingly sore, might get second opinion.

[36chambers]

W - walk and photo session. Got to a bit of the coast I've not been to in a while, took photos until it got dark.

that's a lot of selfies.

[SA Chris]

I bet you think this song is about you..

[Dexter]

It's been a while since I posted on here but getting back outdoors has psyched me back up so here goes

STG: Louis armstrong in the cave
MTG: Do a few more 8B's, probably keen roof, bigger belly and the ace
LTG: Hubble

M: Went to the cave, tried Louis armstrong and got all the moves done, also did rock atrocity
T: Wall session fairly knackered from monday but managed to finish up with some care and such
W: Rest
T: Another rest, did a tiny bit of core
F: Comp at the local wall
S: Went for a 6k run and did some core
S: Wall session, fairly poor as it was way too hot

[cheque]

STG Get endurance again. Tick a route at Raven Tor.
MTG (by late Autumn 2016)- Finish film while making progress towards LTG.
LTG (by end Nov 2019)- 8a.

M- Rest.

Tu- Rest.

W- Bell Hagg. Soloing/ gardening whilst soloing up to HVS. Then bouldered a bit. Too much as I wore my skin quite a lot. Lovely evening :D

Th- Rest.

F- Rest.

Sa- AM- Raven Tor with sympathetic partner who also gets spanked every time they visit and wants to improve. We wanted to get to on Sardine or Tin Of but both were busy so ended up on the boulderier Super High Intensity Bodybuilding. After sorting the sequence I could make it to the first bolt (less pathetic than it sounds...) consistently but with very little left in the tank. With rising temps and diminishing skin I failed to stick the hard move between this and the next bolt, which I believe is the last hard one. Completely done but discussion somehow turned to how I've never learnt to climb continuous cracks, always freeze when attampting to lead them and are thus highly intimidated by Millstone...

PM- Millstone. Hot 'n' humid. Seconded Embankment 3 and Time for Tea Original with about 6 hangs on the rope each.  Seconded Dexterity clean but needed to fight. Lower back really tight/ painful by the end of the day.

Su- Rest. Sore as fuck. Sore in parts of my forearms I've never been sore in before. Back painful too but did loads of stretching and it feels largely better today.

Stormy weather (there's a cue for a song there) at the weekend put paid to filming at the seaside this week, but I'm back to the pattern of working on that most spare time with a few climbing sessions thrown in. Tried harder than I've tried for ages on Saturday though- makes me realise that I've long been in the habit of never trying 100%, even on a toprope or over pads. Learning to climb thin cracks (or, more realistically starting to learn) was awesome, as was flailing at the Tor. Hopefully back to both before too long.

[Coops_13]

STG: Heal knee
MTG: Get solid on 7B/+ boulder and 7b/+ sport
LTG: 8A & 8a

M:
T: Tried out bouldering on knee, physio said do 30 mins, did 50  Knee sore after... Then core session
W:
T:
F: Drove to Lake District (from London) 
S: Had an hour at Bowderstone before doing more conventional things with the girlfriend. Did Picnic Sarcastic, first tried four or so years ago. Tweaked some heel beta, chucked on a new shoe and sent!

S: Short walk up a few fells then drove home via Bolton Castle.

Very pleased to get Picnic Sarcastic, long-standing project of mine. Also, glad the knee held up climbing. Still not feeling quite right but I have a busy couple of weeks coming up so it'll get lots of rest

[petejh]

LTG: Hubble

Now there's a goal!


STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), by mid June
MTG: undecided
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Power & Longer bouldering phase

M. Fairhead. Descended to bottom of cliff, sat around playing eye-spy and the fizz-bang-boom game while waiting to see if it would get warm/dry enough to climb. It didn't so we bailed to Cushenden potato cave and played on the probs. Place needs bolting: Maple Canyon-on-sea.
T. Flew back.
W. Tried to go for a campus sesh but locked out. Frustrated with mill, not going to bother with it again.
T. Boardroom campus board after work. First sesh since last spring. Managed 1-4-6 on the small rungs (moon spacing, 22cm I think) both hands, 1-5-slap on the medium rungs.
F.
S. Gallery for a pump. Warmed up on the 6b, got halfway up a 6c then it started raining hard. Gallery's sort of good sort of a bit shite, still haven't had a good sesh there but I bet I could! Bailed to Hornby Crags on the orme. 6b, 6c+, 7a+. Good routes.
S. Pass. In a weird frame of mind. Tried to warm up on Edge Problem in 23 degree warmth, not a plan. Lazed around in the shade of the van in CC carpark for a few hours listening to Blood Sex and Money. Went to Jerry's Roof, couldn't hold even the big slopey ledge in the warmth. Hung around, eventually it cooled into the evening. Linked from tourist start through crux, could have finished it but didn't know where to go. Turned into a decent sesh eventually. Got home and watched some video beta for next time.

Strange week, work stressful, tired, post holiday blues. Psyched for Jerry's even though the holds are too big to be beneficial training for Mecca (and the start is a rubbish arse drag)

[Dexter]

LTG: Hubble

Now there's a goal!

gotta aim big, that's the point of a LTG right?

[monkoffunk]

I think I need to up my LTG, I've heard the oak is pretty good?

[ashtond6]

S - Two tier, repeated quality control 7a, totally totally spanked on Countdown... was terrible conditions though. But really 7a+? Checked the moves on mind of the turbot for the following day

Unless someone has fixed it the big sidepull at the start fell off 1/2 years ago and has made it much harder. The flake should still be in the bushes at the bottom.

It's up to 7b in the new guide isn't it?

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Seems bloody hard even for 7b! I couldn't even get to the 'crux' 

[AndyR]

Sat: stretching; fantastic session at Tunnel Point, a new and unique (for the region) basalt cliff halfway between Squamish and Vancouver. Managed my fastest ever redpoint of a .12c - it must be soft.

I like the sound of that - worth a visit?
When will your new supercrag be unveiled?

[Luke Owens]

Congrats Dom, effort Nai!

Not sure why but I forgot to post last week, here's a double:

25th April - 1st May

M: Rest

T: Lunch: 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
5 Leg raises (Feet to bar)
10 Knee tucks
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
5 Leg raises (Feet to bar)
10 Knee tucks
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)

Eve: Foot-on Campusing - 5 x 1:30min (3mins Rest)
Failed on 1:20min of 5th set.

W: Plas Power - Running late so did a quicker than usual warm up on problems up to 6Bish.

A mate had come to check out the boards so demoed some problems.

20' Board - 5+, 6A+, 7A, 7A, 7A, 7A+
45' Board - 6B+, 6C+, 7A

Tried to come up with some new projects on the board, got something cool going on with some pockets and pinches.

T: Stretching and Antags

F: Stretching and Antags

S: Llanddulas - Freezing cold, had to take on the 6b warm up as I couldn't feel a thing. Felt really crampy warming up.

Worked the moves on "Sticky Fingers" - 7b+. Did all the moves straight off apart from the last move to easy ground which despite tying in 3 times to try it I couldn't figure it out.

Did a link from the floor to the crux (about 10 moves) and arms were boxed, completely pumped solid, fitness is terrible.

S: Rest - Horrible amount of DOMs in my forearms, felt ill.

2nd May - 8th May

M: Foot-On Campusing - 8 x On until failure resting half of work time between rests. Rested 20 mins and did another 8 reps. Brutal.

T - F: ill

S:  Felt better went to the Cromlech with the little one - Tried "Ultimate Retro Party" (7B) couldn't figure out one of the moves, maybe do-able with more work.

Did "The Blunt" (6C) took ages, felt nails.

Had a quick look at "The Sting" (7B) couldn't pull on the crimps in +20 Degree temps.

S: The Pass - Wavelength Hillside - Did "Gav's Sitter" (7A) excellent underrated problem. Trashed some skin on it.

Went up the Meadow and did "Killer Weed" (6C+) and "Meadow Roof" (6C) both really good.

Nipped back down the hill to try "Arse Soul" (7A) fell off the last move 3 times, slopers were in the full sun so not too grippy!

[filz]

Congrats Dom!

M: farmer's walk, headstands, squat jump, plank, tabata
T: board climbing. Tired
W: rest
T: AnCap and AeroCap. Still tired. Bad session
F: rest
S: bouldering. Too hot, not much psyched and had some sore fingers so I didn't try hard, but had a couple of good goes on a 7b+ I'm hoping to do next winter
S: Board climbing. This was the only good session of the week

I'm starting a phase with some more AnCap and AeroCap.
My aim is to do at least a session a week focused on AnCap with some AeroCap at the end so I get to a decent form to try some routes.

[mr chaz]

STG more 8as (Mussel Beach amongst others)
MTG 8b , Turkey trip in the pipeline for November
LTG Hubble, before Dexter.

Alright week.

M. Power endurance on campus board. Starting to see improvement after a couple of weeks.
T. Light bouldering indoors.
W. 45 degree beastmaker board session.
T. Power endurance on campus board.
F. F*cking women  . Start of 2 day bender.
S. ... bender continues...
S. Went to wall for a nice lie down.

[Coops_13]

F. F*cking women 

Lad 

[Dexter]

LTG Hubble, before Dexter.

Oh it's on

[duncan]

Tempi Moderni should be plenty hard enough.

Tempi Moderni is a great suggestion and definitely on the list, it was the original objective of my last (2013) trip to Italy but high temperatures kept us on the N. Faces. The Dolomites are a possible venue for summer 2017. There are plenty of others like it, Romantic Warrior at The Needles, one of the big Verdon routes (not August but doable in a long weekend), La Guerre Sainte in Wadi Rum (not August or a long weekend): all magnificent and borderline possible. For me though, a proper long-term goal has to have a personal meaning beyond quality and the right difficulty.

The Rabada-Navarro has it as the subject of my first ever climbing slide-show at Uni., even though it is relatively easy. Chant du Cygne has it from reading The White Spider before I ever set foot on rock, but is probably a bit too exciting. The NIAD had it in spades.

RNWF on Half Dome was perfect, but since the two pitches dropped off it’s not the route Jim Erickson climbed, and it now feels a bit too dangerous. I’d love another Yosemite goal but it’s not really a summer venue and the obvious ideas, S. Face of Watkins or Freerider, are far too hard even to be BHAGs.

[Sasquatch]

STG - Drop weight
MTG - Local route projects - 8a/+?ish and 8c?ish
LTG - To Bolt

Week 2 of no climbing shoes...

M - Mtn bike 50min
T - Campus max ladders and Campus ancap
W - Strength work - 1hr, 20min bike ride
T - 60min mtn Bike
F - FB Max Hangs, Campus max ladders, Campus ancap
S - rest
S - FB Max Hangs, Campus Max Ladders

loads of hanging from edges this week.  actually felt good though, and managed to drop 3lbs over the week.

[webbo]

Mon. Board first climbing for 4 months. Just did the first part of my warm several times. No problems with mu Achilles.
Tue. Bike 18.10 miles 1 hr 4mins did a few hard efforts.
Wed. Physio. Bike 23.21 miles 1 hr 22 mins.
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. Day off. Bike 72.30 miles 4 hrs 19 mins hilly ride going ok.
Sat. Physio. Board similar session to Monday did a couple of harder things.
Sun. Bike 62.90 miles 3 hrs 29 mins. Did the first 50 miles at 19 mph+ then sort of blew up.
Pleased with how recovery is going. Review with surgeon next week.

[Hugh]

STG: 7B. Surely I can drag my arse up something at Neath soon...
MTG: Don't get broken. Get strong for Santa Gadea in June.

Another 2-in-1:

25th April:

Mon-Thu: Rest!
Fri: 4.5km run
Sat: More rest
Sun: FB, max hangs. Testing current max: worked up to 10s +28kg on 19mm edge - new p.b.

2nd May:

Mon: Bored of the usual stuff so did a few intervals at TCA (12 move x 4, 1:1 rest-duty cycle).
Tue: FB, max hangs. 10s +22kg x 3 19mm, fail at 7s rep 1, 5s rep 2, 3. Sloper 10s +28kg x 1, success. Poor session, probably still weak from max testing on Sun.
Wed: TCA, Moon board, smallish edges with dynamic moves. Still tired, skin fucked at end of session. Not sold on the Moon board, but it'll have to do for the moment.
Thu: Nowt.
Fri: TCA, mixed bouldering. Felt strong, power returning.
Sat: Run 4.5km.
Sun: FB, max hangs. 19mm 10s +22kg x 3. Success rep 1. 2, 3 fail on 9s. Sloper +28kg x 1, success.

[the_dom]

Thanks all 

[rodma]

Congrats dom.

My week was simple.
Spent Monday to Friday getting over shingles whilst knocking my pan in at work.
Saturday: van mods
Sunday: campussing at wall followed by completing van mods.

Too much time off training in the last two weeks, fingertips really tender. Still manage a couple of benchmark exercises but that may just be because I was still a little dehydrated.

Off to font this coming Saturday, so psyched regardless.

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[a dense loner]

I know an empty gite you could stay at

[rodma]

I know an empty gite you could stay at

Haha :D

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[Nibile]

Maybe Uncle still has the keys...