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Esoteric Peak 7s (Read 12420 times)

El Mocho

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Esoteric Peak 7s
April 28, 2016, 08:12:15 am
Although Grit season may be coming to an end (not if the last few days are anything to go by...) was after some suggestions/list of Esoteric or quality new 7s...

Did Gathering Storm the other day, nice

Jonboy has done loads over the years, which are the best of the bunch?

I know I could look through the new problems bit here or go on Peakbouldering but a) I'm lazy and b) was after peoples recommendations.

I guess you could include the odd Lime one.

Joepicalli

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#1 Re: Esoteric Peak 7s
April 28, 2016, 09:16:02 am
Picalli's pickle off-width roof crack at Cratcliffe.

andy popp

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#2 Re: Esoteric Peak 7s
April 28, 2016, 09:18:05 am
Have you done everything up at Howshaw Tor?

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#3 Re: Esoteric Peak 7s
April 28, 2016, 09:29:52 am
BB have you done those things in Bamford Quarry?

Bonjoy

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#4 Re: Esoteric Peak 7s
April 28, 2016, 10:08:05 am
I keep a record of new stuff for adding to the next guide, so rather than be selective, here are all the new grit 7s I’ve put up since the last edition, plus a few that made the last one but are deffo esoteric and/or underrated. I’ve left on the star ratings I’d propose if there was no consensus already (* = normal star, ** = bold star in guide). Have added the odd explanatory note. Most stuff is described on pb.info, with exception of the last five which I haven’t written up yet. There’s been loads of other new 7s put up by the likes of Iain, Jamie and Ned since the last guide, if I get chance I’ll try and dredge my brain for a list of these too at some point.


** Panopticon - 7c – Howshaw. On my vimeo
** Black Rhino 7a - Howshaw
**Gathering Storm 7b+ - Doll Tor
**Stiletto 7b+ - Wimberry – Excellent SS arete on lower tier of crag. Worth pegging mat down due to slippery grass landing. On my vimeo
**Green Lipped Muscle 7c – Cratcliffe – Traverse, probably buried under larch needles, brilliant climbing. Video on Nathan Lee’s vimeo.
*Forest Casual 7b – Black Garden
*Sweet Release 7c – Wharncliffe – In the guide but unrepeated as far as I know. Traverse with a great crux sequence.
*The Cherub’s Bit 7a – Turning Stone – In guide but deffo esoteric. Blank padding slab, a bit squeezed (a direct start would solve this) but worth a clean.
Nice Pinch, Shame about the Ledge 7a – Turning Stone
*Riding the Stang 7a+ - Turning Stone – Probably needing a re-clean
* Roller Bowler Currant 7b – Filthy Q
Pleasant Street 7a - Cratcliffe
* Wind Shark 7b+ - Filthy Q – Maybe needs a re-clean. Way better than it looks and deserves some attention
* Pinchers’ Wall 7a+ - Cratcliffe – One mover. On my vimeo
** Invasion of the Cider Women Direct 7a – Cratcliffe. On my vimeo
* Sweet Chariot 7b+ - Filthy Q. Silly eliminate, awesome moves (morpho). On my vimeo.
Want Not 7a – Burbage N
Shadow Shark 7a+ - Filthy Q
* Asylum Sika 7b – Burb N
Hangman sans block 7a – Stanton in Woods. Eliminate
* Dangle Grinder 7a – Kinder, Upper Tor, next to proper classic highball Rimming Roger 7a
Dollop 7a – Doll Tor
Trollop 7a – Doll Tor
* After the Rain 7a – Kinder, Upper Edale Rocks
Where’s Huffy’s 7a – Kinder, Upper Edale Rocks
How Now Brown Prow? 7a – Kinder, Pagoda
** Crayon Angel 7a – Kinder, Ashop Edge. Classy highball arete on boulder
* Smells like Tinned Peaches 7b – Kinder, Ashop Edge
The Fork 7a+ - Stanton in Woods
Bonfire of the Manatees 7a - Cratcliffe
Bigmouth Strikes Again 7a – Big Mouth Rock (near Secret Garden). Deffo worth a detour if going to nearby crags. On my vimeo
Right Hand Man 7a+ - Secret Garden. On my vimeo
* Petit Jesu 6c (7a SS) – Curbar. Good crimpy bulge. Sit start is a bit pokey.
Piggy Biscuit 7a - Baslow
* House of the Holey 7c – Cratcliffe. On my vimeo
* Quercus 7a – Cratcliffe. Did as a route (E4 6b) with runners, but prob better as a highball. Top will need re-cleaning
* Moo Cow SS 7b – Shining Cliff. On my vimeo
* Iron Eyes 7a+/7b – Birchen. Pockety roof into arete. On my vimeo
Scuttlebutt 7a - Birchen
* Frog Eat Frog 7a+ - Stoney Ley. On my vimeo
Party Pooper 7a+ - Bradley Quarry Boulders. Direct version of Swinger’s Party
* Bread and Circuses 7a – Curbar (Loafstone). Venue well worth a visit for grade six highballs, expect moderate scrittle.
* Stoneground 7b – Curbar (Loafstone)
Wolf in Cheap Clothing 7a – Bradley Quarry. Nice lightning feature in grottly quarry
Wet Nettle 7b – Bradley Quarry Boulders. Weird kneeling start, needs a sitter.
* Gravy Boatsman 7a+ - Froggatt (Dreamboat Boulder). Good prob, reasonably clean at present I think
Fiddler’s Arete SS 7a - Froggatt
Gentleman’s Left Hand 7a - Froggatt
* Sneakin’ the Beak in 7a+ - Howshaw. Standing version of Broke Beak
Paul Pot 7a+ - Howshaw
Slanting Arete Low 7a – Derwent (Back Tor)
** Broke Beak Mountain 7c+ - Howshaw. On Dave Mason’s vimeo
* Andy Capp SS 7a – Mother Cap Quarry
* Mother Goosed 7b – Mother Cap Quarry. On Emlyn’s vimeo
The Crow from Below 7a+ - Derwent (Hueco Boulders)
Cap’s Lock 7a+ - Mother Cap Quarry Boulder
Capoeira 7a+- Mother Cap Quarry Boulder
** Dad’s Arete – A Belly Full of Brad Berries 7b+ - Hillcar Wood
* Twix 6c (SS 7a) – Stanage, up and right of Shirley’s. Highball steep double arete. Landing slopey but ok if you have a scrap of rope to tie it off.
Greyfoot 7b – Rowtor Wood. Inferior early finish to excellent 7c Blackfoot (On my vimeo)
* Pinch Punch 7b+ - Bradley Quarry Boulders. Board style sideways thing. On my vimeo
** Birdsong 7c – Bradley Quarry Boulders. Bring kneepad. On my vimeo
New Hats for Me 7a+ - eatswood
* eatswood Roof 7b+ - eatswood
* Lonesome Thorn 7a – Dovestones Quarry Boulders. Good slappy prow. On my vimeo (really crap quality vid).
Tusk n Bean 7a – Wimberry. On my vimeo
* Rubble Rouser 7c+ - eatswood. On my vimeo
* Mr Dobalina 7b – Dobb Edge. On my vimeo
Underwood 7b+ - eatswood. Eliminate
Witch’s Milk 7b - eatswood
* Lip up Fatty 7b - eatswood
* Chicken & Mushroom Scoop 7a – Kinder, Seal Stones
*June Whitfield 7a – Millstone. Techy highball below April Arete
Ram Raider 7a – Ramshaw. New boulder on RHS of crag
*Knights of the Round 7b – Stoney Ley. On my vimeo. Finish moves to excellent 7c Green Knight
* Blocksmith 7a – Kinder, Upper Tor. On my vimeo
*Sir Gawain 7a+ - Stoney Ley. Early finish to Green Knight
Hot Toddy LH 7a+ - Froggatt. Reachy SS
Georgie Porgie 7a+ - Froggatt. On Haydn’s vimeo
* The Duke of Nuts 7b – Stoney Ley
Boobafina 7a – Stoney Ley
T-Bonier 7a+ - Black Garden.
Solo Polo Vision 7a – Black Garden
**Elephant Hawk Moth 7a – Crich Tors. Brillaint highball roof. Partial ascent on my vimeo
Wind Power 7a+ - Wind Hill Farm Rocks. On my vimeo
Mudbugs 7a+ - Burbage South
**Highrider 7b+ - Crich Tors. Even better than Elephant Hawk Moth
Jumbo SS 7a – Eagle Tor
Heart Arete low start 7a – Eagle Tor. Not quite a SS, start with foot on base block.
Mein Craft 7a+ - Hen Cloud
Meullerosis 7a+ - Froggatt
<arete near Barrel> 7a+ - Froggatt

andy_e

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#5 Re: Esoteric Peak 7s
April 28, 2016, 10:18:15 am
Where do you get all these names from? Incredible!

grimer

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#6 Re: Esoteric Peak 7s
April 28, 2016, 10:30:29 am
I think that answers Mocho's question.

Bonjoy

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#7 Re: Esoteric Peak 7s
April 28, 2016, 10:33:08 am
Where do you get all these names from? Incredible!

The spare names list of course!  ;D

Quote
•   Fight or Flight < pumpy bold route>
•   The Idiots are Winning
•   Cenotaph Cornflake
•   Pear of Despair
•   Death by a Thousand Cuts < gnarly jamming>
•   Exploding Head Syndrome < powerful route>
•   Derbyshire Neck < bold route>
•   Bubble Gun
•   Chairman of the Bored
•   Inflection Point <mantel>
•   Chocolate Lodger
•   Stig of the Pump < for Dukes Quarry/or lip trav out of Stigmata>
•   S6 Girls / The Only Way is S6
•   Too Big to Fail < Highball/solo>
•   Yesterday’s Tomorrow
•   Elegant Sufficiency <minimal slab>
•   Girth Certificate / Girth Control
•   From Dust We Are <Dirtlow>
•   Dispatchcock <spatchcock move>
•   The Grateful Ned
•   Cloud Nein
•   Croissant Neuf
•   Pareidolia < rock looking like face>
•   Casu Marzu
•   Minister of Sinister
•   Back of Beyond <remote>
•   How Short, or…? <on Howshaw>
•   King Crab <trav>
•   The Kitchen Sink <shit filler>
•   Radical Overhaul <Mantel>
•   Snake Oil/ Serpentoleum
•   Chiggers With Attitude
•   Snow Joke <Snowball>
•   Twin Beaks, Beak Oil, Beak Dance, Beak of the Week, Beak Chic,
•   Snakin’ the Bacon
•   Lost Boy
•   High Summer <Moorland grit>
•   Conie Shelmardine <Conies prob>
•   The Crepes of Wrath
•   Off License Men
•   Separate Feehallity <roof crack by Ned>
•   Turn/Turning the other Cheek <mantel next to another mantel>
•   Sod’s Lawyer
•   Hedonic Treadmill
•   No Stone Left Unturned <Turningstone>
•   Brownie in Motion
•   Bigaretecia <big arete>
•   1000 Pounds of Muslim Man
•   Dead Cat Bounce
•   Special Measures
•   Acid Chaz
•   Stone Flower
•   Rose Among Thorns <rose move>
•   Pogrom
•   Tortology <at crag with Tor in name>
•   Squeeze Mong <basic compression>
•   Wang Span <reachy compression>
•   Twitter Ye Not
•   Oh Whatta Feelin’ <roof climb>
•   Choad in the Hole

Bonjoy

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#8 Re: Esoteric Peak 7s
April 28, 2016, 10:39:08 am
I think that answers Mocho's question.
Never knowingly undersold. Got to use the list for something whilst Cofe's writing the second installment of Ted Bolger's biography

andy_e

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#9 Re: Esoteric Peak 7s
April 28, 2016, 10:39:33 am
Please keep doing more climbs so those become a reality! I particularly enjoy the tortuous wordplay which combines two or more features such as the crag name, the first ascentionist, the move types and the rock. For example, a lowball problem which is easier for the short at Howshaw Tor.

Bonjoy

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#10 Re: Esoteric Peak 7s
April 28, 2016, 10:42:48 am
Sometimes the name is too good not to put up a (shit) problem just to use it. There's a prob at Curbar called Boysen's Crack - couldn't resist doing crap lines either side and calling them 'I got the Boysen', 'I got the Remedy'

andy_e

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#11 Re: Esoteric Peak 7s
April 28, 2016, 10:45:04 am
Belly full of Boysenberries (you can have that one on me)

SA Chris

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#12 Re: Esoteric Peak 7s
April 28, 2016, 10:49:56 am
A marvellous insight into your mind.

What is a spatchcock move?

Kitchen Stink?

El Mocho

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#13 Re: Esoteric Peak 7s
April 28, 2016, 11:19:26 am
What is a spatchcock move?

+1

(I'm getting quite horrible images of Bonjoy and Ned, please correct me)

Thanks folks, done a few off that list but there are plenty I didn't know about/had forgotten about.

Fuck Bonjoys done a lot.

andy_e

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#14 Re: Esoteric Peak 7s
April 28, 2016, 11:27:45 am
I'd assume it's where you spatchcock yourself against the rock. That said, a google image search comes up with this:

How's that mental image doing now BB?

edit:


Bonjoy

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#15 Re: Esoteric Peak 7s
April 28, 2016, 11:33:59 am
Oh dear.
Not sure who came up with Spatchcock, we used to call it Frogging. A position where you’re facing the rock with both knees bent and pointing outwards in opposite directions. I’m too inflexible to do this, so can’t see this name ever graduating from the shortlist.

SA Chris

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#16 Re: Esoteric Peak 7s
April 28, 2016, 11:49:32 am
I can see why now, up against the wall like a small roast chicken.

Will Hunt

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#17 Re: Esoteric Peak 7s
April 28, 2016, 03:00:01 pm
•   S6 Girls / The Only Way is S6
•   Too Big to Fail < Highball/solo>
•   The Grateful Ned
•   High Summer <Moorland grit>
•   Acid Chaz

These are the best  :lol: :clap2:

I am still waiting to create:

  • Sunday Best
  • English Rose

mark20

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#18 Re: Esoteric Peak 7s
April 28, 2016, 03:19:13 pm
Some great names there!
The other day James Thornton said he's on the look out for a new problem so he can call it 'Illusions Of Ganja'  :lol:

36chambers

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#19 Re: Esoteric Peak 7s
April 28, 2016, 03:27:44 pm
I'm looking forward to the day when I can use the name "Biggus Dickus"

SA Chris

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#20 Re: Esoteric Peak 7s
April 28, 2016, 03:34:24 pm
Is this the place where you reserve problem names then?

In that case I reserve the rights to;

Cistern Chiphole
Carpool Toenail
Batterfang https://www.wordnik.com/words/batterfang
Tom Cox's Traverse http://www.marineterms.com/marine-terms/sea-words/tom-coxs-traverse.html

tomtom

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#21 Re: Esoteric Peak 7s
April 28, 2016, 05:00:44 pm
I'm looking forward to the day when I can use the name "Biggus Dickus"

Thats a great line to read out of context...

36chambers

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#22 Re: Esoteric Peak 7s
April 28, 2016, 05:10:37 pm
I'm looking forward to the day when I can use the name "Biggus Dickus"

Thats a great line to read out of context...

8)

cofe

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#23 Re: Esoteric Peak 7s
April 28, 2016, 05:13:39 pm
I'm surprised no one has mentioned Burning Lark Sunset at Hepstow Brow, or Raped by a Kestrel at Congleton Knoll.

Footwork

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#24 Re: Esoteric Peak 7s
April 28, 2016, 05:15:10 pm
A friend is waiting for a route called 'Gutter Slut Strut' to fall down so he can steal the name.

 

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