[quejada]

I think the title of the topic is quite self explanatory, but I'll be trying Tcrack next weekend and need some clarifications on the proper beta: is the block down left, near where you start with your hands, in or out? I've seen some videos where people use is to heel hook it to match on the crack (making it look way easier) and on peakbouldering.info it talks about the block down right being out, but in the latest peak guide book it says the "blocks down and right(as in, the 2 blocks, the one down and the one right) are out". It looks like that if you have to toe hook where you left hand is to match the crack the problem gets substantially harder. but probably that's the proper way, I've seen videos of people doing it that way as well.
anyway, clarifications needed
thanks
q

[Johnny Brown]

The starting block is split by a crack. Traditionally the block left of the crack is out. So basically same hands as feet; no heels left of the chalk where you start for hands.

Low down the crack curves right to form a ledge. I don't have any qualms about starting with my feet on this rather than smearing them on blank rock an inch higher.

The block on the right is obviously not in at all.

Traditionally the slopers at the left hand end of the T were not used either - some people heelhook or heel-and-toe here. No biggie, but the positive chip in this sloper should definitely not be used.

[Fiend]

All sounds a bit fucking Pinches Wall to me 

[dave]

+1 What Nutkins said.

All sounds a bit fucking Pinches Wall to me 

Don't be daft, nothing on pinches wall has this many rules.

[Johnny Brown]

Yeah, it does. Luckily it climbs very logically. It's pretty obvious that over use of the start boulder would mean you just rock left and then walk round the back.

[Steamboat Stello]

I am always a bit confused by this as well.

Compare this:



With this (starts at 1:36):



I did it the 2nd way, which looks nicer but hard to say that the 1st way isn't also kosher?

[quejada]

Yeah comparing these 2 videos there's at least half a grade of difficulty between them, if not a full grade. The use of of the block make it look really easy compared to the 'pure' version, which I definitely prefer, albeit harder.
I'm usually quite allergic to eliminates and silly rules, but it this case I think it really does make a difference. I think the explanation given by Johnny Brown is makes perfect sense so I'm gonna stick with it.
cheers

[dave]

The bottom vid is closer to the oldschool convention, but both are legit (assuming the guy in the top vid isn't using the chip).

Really isn't a great problem for my money, the best way climbing wise is probably the hardest and most eliminate way. For instance the moves hanging out off just a toehook to match the T bit of the crack are great moves, but totally unnecessary.

[Johnny Brown]

Well both of those videos show the same rules for the foot block, so it's really just two sequences. I think the no toehook, left sloper sequence is only an option for the tall.

[Steamboat Stello]

I agree with Dave, the toe-hook move is really cool so I'd just do it that way. It somehow doesn't really end up feeling that eliminate when you do it that way anyway and you get old school kudos 

[r-man]

I think the no toehook, left sloper sequence is only an option for the tall.

Nope, I've done it that way. 5ft9 ish. Don't remember it being particularly reachy.

[Steamboat Stello]

So if quejada wants to do a non-eliminate, 3 star, 7b prob on peak grit which is similar style to T-crack what should he/she go and do? 

[Johnny Brown]

I'm normally the first to pour scorn on eliminates, but T-crack climbs too well. As I said, the start block is massive (it's also the descent) so it's obvious that to make a problem some rules are required.

Similar grade/ style: Blood falls, Ram air, Mark's roof, The Nose, Early doors etc

If you insist on a roof with toe-hooks in pockets then Pat's roof at Rowtor.

[quejada]

I know it's kinda off topic, but while in the area, I was thinking of trying also Razor Roof Link Up, can anyone tell me how badly this line was damaged by that idiot that few years ago went hammering down some of the holds at Cratcliffe and Robin Hood stride? is it still doable? has the grade changed much?
thanks

[dave]

If you're talking the R-L problem, it barely makes any difference of any. If you're talking the L-R problem then it depends on your sequence, not a massive difference but will have changed some people's sequence. Reckon the way I do it now is actually easier then my way before it broke.

[Johnny Brown]

Yeah, it's basically only one crimp on RZA roof that has gone. New sequence required for me, a bit harder but probably not worth a grade change.

[ferret]

you can always do it with no block starting from the undercuts at a grade harder. second video sequence climbs very nicely, i've seen a very tall climber go all the way to the top hold with his feet on the block, dunno how he lives with himself.