[fried]

Mon - Thurs - Too much work, out of Paris and no motivation or energy to get to a wall.

Fri - Tired, but went to the wall and had a really good session, think I needed it. Polished off a couple of '6B' problems, but just felt better, more fluid and more in balance than last week.

Sat - Cooked all day for the missus' birthday. Didn't drink too much.

Sun - Wanted to go to Cuvier and siege Nescafe, but the weather window looked tight. Went indoors and had an O.K session on some more difficult stuff.

A bit more free time next week, hope the weather plays fair.

[csl]

STG - the next month

Lose some weight
Do lots of PE training
Boulder in Scotland

MTG - next two months

Be fit for Ceuse and climb Privilege

LTG - this year
8a
Mon - rest
Tue
Building One - Hard Boulders + AeroPow

Ok session, didn't really try any hard enough boulders. Good Aeropower, did boulder 4x4's and then 5 reps of foot on campus.

Wed
Biscuit Factory - AeroPow

Circuit Laps x 8

Thu
Building One - Hard Boulders, up to V6. Again nothing hard enough.
Fri - rest
Sat
Biscuit Factory - good session on the comp wall. Flashed a few hard things then so close on the V7 and V8 in the middle. Nice and basic climbing. Tried hard. Made up a problem or two on the steep board also.
Sun - rest

Ok week - not quite enough focus but good volume. Off to NW Scotland for the weekend on thursday, non climbing trip but aiming for a day at Torridon bouldering.

[mindfull]

BW: 67kg

It's been a while, but after having a kneecap fracture and following surgery in December I could do only weight training for upper body, but as the summer nears and I should be recovered fully enough to do real climbing training, I'll start posting through the process again.

STG: Upper body weight training, physio exercises for the legs.
MTG (Summer): Getting back into french 7th grade climbing.
LTG: God shave the queen (8a), Freyr

MO: FB training
1. Pullup:
Pullups: 8xBW
Hammer pullup: 8xBW
Chinup: 8xBW
2. Bench press:
10x30kg
8x35kg
5x40kg
5x45kg
3x50kg
1x55kg
1x60kg
1x62kg
1x64kg
1x66kg (grinder)
3. Clean
5x5x36kg
4. OH Push Press
5x5x40kg
5. BB Shrug
4x10x54kg
6. Incline DB press
3x8x20kg
7. (F/S/R) delt. raise
(3x) 4x8x8kg
8. Over head squat
5x5x20kg
9. Standing calf raise
5x10x20kg
10. DB lunges
5x10x10kg
11. Kneeling ab rollout
4x10xBW

WED: Pull
1. Frenchies (5sec locks):
4x2xBW
2. Clean
5x5x36kg
3. BB Shrug:
4x10x54
4. (F/S/R) delt raise
(3x) 3x8x8kg

THU: Push
1. Incline BB bench press
2x10x40kg
8x40kg
6x40kg
2. OH push press
5x5x40kg
3. Incline DB chest press
4x8x20kg
4. French press
4x10x14kg

FRI: Legs
1. Bike
10min.
2. Pistol squats
4x10xBW
3. Standing calf raise
4x10x20kg
4. Walking lunges
4x10xBW

SU: Push
1. Bench press
10x30kg
8x34kg
5x38kg
3x40kg
1x44kg
1x48kg
1x50kg
1x54kg
1x58kg
1x60kg
1x64kg
2. OH push press
5x5x40kg
3. Incline DB press
4x8x20kg
4. French press
4x10x14kg

Hope to get a campus session in next week.

[Coops_13]

STG: Heal knee for holidays in next few weeks
MTG: Get solid on 7B/+ boulder and 7b/+ sport
LTG: 8A & 8a

M:
T:
W:
T: Beastmaker "5A" workout, completed all 18 sets but cheated, a lot. Stuck to it as far as fingers could handle, wrist sore on warm-up, fine in session.
F:
S: Beastmaker "5A" workout, completed 16 of 18 sets as finger felt tweaky, lots of cheating again (using mix of intended hold and larger hold for other hand. Big night out, knee hurt quite a lot...
S:

Knee only got marginally better over the week, while performing all physio exercises. Saturday night put me back a bit, seeing physio again tomorrow...

[nai]

STG - Raindogs, Call of Nature and other Peak WIPS

M - Tor, Call. Baltic. Had at least 10 redpoint attempts all failing getting to or from the sika but getting progressively better, eventually managed a couple of attempts at the rollover to jug move when way past my best. If I can pick up next time from where I left off maybe I've got a chance.

T - Short fingerboard session

W rest

Th  - Malham. Boiling and bright. Horrible.  Put the clips in Raindogs, briefly tried a few moves before realising how futile it was. Did Yosemite Wall for a first 7a+ onsight and then Against the Grain for a second.  Back on Raindogs briefly when it cooled down but was done in.

F - Bouldered in garage completing a new problem I set 3 weeks ago.  Drove to Tor to try Rattle & Hump (although really I was hoping to meet someone and get a belay on Call but despite seemingly mint connies there was nobody there). R&H start holds wet so I went to try Kidneystone at Gardoms instead. Spent an hour reminding myself why I'd given up on it previously and went home for 1/2 AeroPow boulder session.

Eve had a big steak dinner and the best part of a bottle of red. Wouldn't normally post such trivia but....

S ..... was granted an afternoon pass completely out of the blue. 

Rocked up at the Tor in the hope of scrounging a belay regretting overdoing training and drinking yesterday.  Had 7 attempts, held the sika every time but never well enough to make the next two moves. Again final attempts were the better ones, maybe need to spend time trying the throw a few times each session before starting redpoints.  Linked through crux to top again last go, basically 4 hard moves in.  Not bad given the less-than-perfect preparation.
Core Eve.

S 3x10 mins LI AeroCap

Decent week although slightly disappointed not to get Call, hope to be back on it Tue or Wed rested and detoxed. Play nicely, weather. Please.

[Muenchener]

STG (April) under 80kg. This week's average: 81.2. 1.2kgs in the remaining week is a tall order, but should be possible.
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: Rest day. Shoulder physio exercises
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. Light strength maintenance (hopefully) session with M jnr
W: Shoulder physio
   Wall, Thalkirchen. Light bouldering to warm up, eight routes to 6c.
T: Bike one hour.
F: shoulder physio.
S: Wet weekend. Wall, Thalkirchen. Nine routes up to 6c. Particularly pleased with a 6b onsight on a sector that is 18 metres high and overhangs 6 metres. Easy moves, but that kind of steepness is well outside my comfort zone.
S: Rest. Start of the taper for, coming soon: Spring Frankenjura Season.

A question to the audience: how does one, in fact, taper? I'm off to the 'jura in ten days, weather permitting. I read something somewhere about keeping the intensity of training up but the volume way down?

[shark]

11.0-2

M.
T. Malham Up with Mina and Ryan P - met others there. Busy on catwalk. Lots of partner swapping. Climbed with Nathan from Leeds and Mike from Berlin and Hayden (Lime caller). Beautiful day. Should have gone for a later start. Cons x1 then x2. We all took refuge in shade of boulders by stream. F&EE x 1. Warm up go on Oak. Did throw straight off. Then horn to top in two sections I think. Go1 Went from 2nd bolt (4 handmoves and 7 footmoves from ground) Despite Haydn jabbering and me barking at him to concentrate midmoves managed to link to the top.  First time Ive ever seriously tried this link and a massive confidence boost. Was buzzing after. Went for a walk around the top to calm down. Go2 From ground to slipping off holding the horn. Go3 From ground to setting up before throw 3-5min rest then unexpectedly did throw to the top. Haydn redpointed second go and stripped. Cons x2 and led Appetite (first time this year) to warm down. Clearly it is tantalisingly close now. Also weather forecast getting cooler / cloudier. Would be good to have two days rest and go Friday but not an option so up on Thursday. Decided plan going forward is to go from ground but on each redpoint attempt that gets past horn to rest briefly where I fall and continue to top so appropriate An/AeroPower is still trained even though it compromises subsequent redpoint attempts on the day and probably try throw to top for last go of the day.
W. Turned 52
T. Malham. Wanted 2 days ret but couldnt make it work. Up with Nick D and Sam H met Andy C there, Busy again. Meant to be a little cloudy but scorching. Sheltered in shade of boulders by Beck for a couple of hours. Felt curiously relaxed about t all though. Cons x 1 and x2. Dooged up Oak. Go 1 From ground to top traverse falling coming into sidepull with right hand. Plan was meant to be that I would pull straight back on and go to top but given that Id put so much effort in that I couldnt even form a coherent sentence this wasnt possible. Go 2 Slipped off horn Go 3 Slipped off horn. Rest and to top with one fall. First time through horn move from ground so given the temps and only having one rest day not too shoddy.
F. PM Rushed weights session. DB 1 x Bolton Complex, Curls x 3, High Undercut exercise x 3, Gaston exercise x 3, BB 1 x Deadlift (145kilos) Drove to Edinburgh
S. Ratho for YCS Final with Tom. Fell asleep on a sofa and woke up to Elbow Bursitis  . Used cold packs and anti-inflammatories. Tom didnt finish to 6pm. Drove to Blackpool. Elbow worse
S. AM Sonia ran Blackpool marathon. PM Drove back to Sheffield

Eventful week. Feel massively more positive about the Oak (and weather). Bursitis is a set back nut seems to be receding with compression and think Im ok to climb with it - just need to be careful not to knock it.   

Tommy came 24th out of 35 in YCS Final and first of the Peak finalists. In some ways a disappointing result but the way his birthday falls means he is competing with other boys potentially up to 2 years older. He only has one YCS left to do and I expect that will be the end of comps for him as he is more interested in climbing outside with his dad   

Mrs Shark got a big tick getting sub 4 hours in the Blackpool Marathon

[petejh]

Muench - Couple of sesh's per week, finish fresh.

STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), by mid June
MTG: undecided
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Bouldering phase.

M. Core and mobility sesh
T. Tremeirchion. Tried 36 Chambers, good sesh. Held hold above heel hook on last go but ran out of light/energy to finish it off.
W. Boardroom. Spent glorious spring evening doing aero endurance laps on auto-belay. Grim but necessary. First endurance type training since... forever? 6bs feeling as pumpy as expected.
T. Dinbren to get reacquainted with a rope and harness. 3 laps of a 6b. 6c+ os, 6c os fail in dark. Fitness status: no forearm endurance detected.
F.
S. Core and mobe in a.m. Tremeirchion in p.m. Sent 36 Chambers quickly, 2nd go after warming up. YYFY! Felt airy as I'd given my girlfriend two of my three pads. Tried to pad out my remaining pad with jacket and sweater underneath to cushion the fall a bit more:

S. Dinbren. 7 pitches 6b - 7a. os or 2nd go. Fitness status: forearm endurance of someone who's never seen a climbing rope.


Pleased with 36! Gorges du Tarn next week to test out my 3-bolt fitness. Lucky they're all short there.

[shark]

S. Core and mobe in a.m. Tremeirchion in p.m. Sent 36 Chambers quickly, 2nd go after warming up. YYFY! Felt airy as I'd given my girlfriend two of my three pads. Tried to pad out my remaining pad with jacket and sweater underneath to cushion the fall a bit more:

Effort - must be particularly sweet coming back from injury.

Went there once and John Welford failed on it (and then his knee imploded)

[petejh]

S. Core and mobe in a.m. Tremeirchion in p.m. Sent 36 Chambers quickly, 2nd go after warming up. YYFY! Felt airy as I'd given my girlfriend two of my three pads. Tried to pad out my remaining pad with jacket and sweater underneath to cushion the fall a bit more:

Effort - must be particularly sweet coming back from injury.

Went there once and John Welford failed on it (and then his knee imploded)

I come back from injury on average every 6 months -what was that saying about insanity being repeating hte same mistake over and over. But yes, it is sweet!

[36chambers]

STG: another 8A before summer?? Ben's Groove sitter 7C+
MTG: Yorkshire classics
LTG: 8B

M: quick full body workout
T: Almscliff. Five weeks since I last tried Exorcist (Long) 8A and I managed it first go with minimum faff YYFY. So that's the roof ticked as far as I'm concerned (bar the uber eliminates).
W: Caley. First proper session on Ben's Groove Assis 7C+. Took a while to figure out the moves but progress was made. Fingerboard afterwards. 
T:
F: quick full body workout
S: Caley. BG assis round 2. Finalised beta and have now done all the moves. Feels way easier than it first did . Definitely a goer, although I'll be lucky to get decent connies before summer kicks in.
S: Rained on the way to the crag so indoors for a few hours. 1 min on 1 min off foot on campusing.

Tweaky finger has never felt better. But I'm feeling pretty trashed after this week. Fingertips are a mess. Would like to fingerboard twice a week, but I'm not willing to compromise outdoor sessions. Will fully commit come summer. 

[Muenchener]

Thanks Pete

Clearly it is tantalisingly close now.

 

[petejh]

Titty fucking christ shark I'll never again complain of having a 'bit of a tweaky elbow'!  Effort on the Oak!

[monkoffunk]

STG: Font 7A+, before summer gets hot. (Still time if I actually get on one)
MTG: 1. French 7c+, before 1/1/17. 2. Tick unfinished business list (3/13).
LTG: 1. Cider Soak and Academic, before 1/1/18. 2. Font 7B+, before 1/1/18.

M - on nights.  Core/conditioning/stretches first.
T - nights. Board session red spider. Awesome, awesome, awesome. Could definitely get strong on it. Stretches.
W - nights. Core/4 sets of locks. Don't know if enough to be helpful for anything.
T - nights over. Rest day.
F - stretches for back. Feeling a bit stiff.
S - Bouldering on Cuttings. Very poor tactics. Should have had half the number of attempts, would probably have climbed something. Climbed nothing.
S - Routes on Cuttings. Better tactics. Rested and waited for blazing sun to come off wall. Hall of Mirrors done. Hardest on the unfinished business list, good milestone. Need to find a good project and psyched on some low 7 volume too.

[ashtond6]

M - rest
T - Stanage Plantation, did wall end slab direct, bunny wailer 6C second go and 'not to be taken away' for the first time
W - rest
T - Burbage South with Cheque, did a 6C+/7A second try, a 6B and a 6B+. Failed on a heel hooky 7A roof (antistyle)
F - Stoney,  onsighted a 6b+ warm up, then tried Virgin King 7b+. Thought the crux was really hard but didn't spend long on it and it went dark quickly!
S - Cheedale Embankment, spanked on the 6b+ and 6c warm ups. The harder routes were all taken but did one of the 7a+ 2nd RP. should have done it 1st go but I went the wrong way at the top whilst pumped.
S - tried embankment again but it was raining so went to Rubicon. Bit damp and exhausted from 4 days on. Did millers tale sit 6C. Tried too old to be bold, struggled without beta. Tried one of the new 7a's but it was wet so just did laps on the traverses

[Duma]

Goals:
Shadow Walker tbc
8A and 8b by next June

69kg. (av.)

Body Audit: Thumb pretty much better. Neck/Shoulder still sore - got some stretches from Rupert so hopefully see some improvement soon...

M: < 5hrs sleep due to child stress, but thought should have a go anyway, so back to Cheddar with Rosea - great conditions again, bit cold if anything. Dogged up SW to warm up, redid from undercuts to top straight off which was nice. Got a bit cold belaying though before first attempt, got through 1st crux but numb fingers at undercuts. couldn't manage the extended clip before top crux which wasbit disheartening, but realised after wind had blown sling onto crucial spike so effectively shortening it. Took tape off wrist and taped sling in position. 2nd attempt better warmed up, through to undercuts and felt like getting reasonable amount back. through top crux, new foothold for last clip worked well, then real fight through last easier moves to belay. Really pleased to do this - great route, first of the grade for me (8a+), felt like I had to fight, and also had to learn to use the rests rather than just sprinting through as is my usual tactic. Rosea did Valley of the Blind next go too so top day.
T: TCA for bit of a play on the new red (6C-7B) circuit, managed three, and the moves on a few more. ok session
W: TCA with clo briefly during day, quick play on newly installed moonboard, but not much really. eve TCA for moonboard launch, fairly short but good session, hard on the skin but felt like worked fingers and core.
T:
F: early morning buildering session at Dove st wall - hr of pleasant edging in the mid 6's neck/shoulder seemed much worse after so went to see Rupert that afternoon, did a bit of massage and gave me some stretches
S: 3 mile run, 23 min
S: Hartland Quay, Carnage wall. did the easy warm up a few times, then managed Carnage about 6th go? Commenced work on Supercede (proper sw classic and poss candidate for my "8A before 40") managed starting moves individually, then working on the stand (gets 7C+), making decent progress but not got to finishing moves, Jonny is very close to the stand when he rips the last crimp before the lip off the wall! bit of a shame as although it looks to be still doable, it's not likely to be acheivable for me anymore. Oh well, a day in the sun by the seaside when one ticks a classic 7B can't be bad.

[monkoffunk]

through top crux, new foothold for last clip worked well, then real fight through last easier moves to belay. Really pleased to do this - great route, first of the grade for me (8a+), felt like I had to fight, and also had to learn to use the rests rather than just sprinting through as is my usual tactic.

Well done, awesome effort!

[T_B]

84.9Kg

M - School lunch. Bouldering, mainly 50 degree. Then campussing for first time in ages. Surprised to do 1-4-7 on either arm fairly easily.
T - School lunch. AnCap. Adjusted circuit to make it harder. Now seems bang on - 13 moves. Resting double climbing time, managed 5 reps.
W - Ran home - felt awful. Tight hammy and calf.
T - Tor p.m. first visit of the year. Trying sections of S'Band and attempts at PUTP. Slapped towards the gaston a couple of times. Quite happy given I've not been doing loads.
F -
S -
S - 12Km on the flat slow with my bro. Well rested and felt v easy.

Light week. PUTPBand assessment sess revealed lack of PE (not surprisingly) and moves generally feeling a bit hard. Next wk running in the wk then shock horror potential for lots of climbing on the Bankie, hope it isn't a washout.

[duncan]

Well done Duma

STG (June): rehab. finger & knee. 6c at Ceuse (Zagreb); sea-cliff E3.
MTG (September): Excalibur, Wendenstock; Rabada-Navarro, Naranjo de Bulnes; sea-cliff E5.
LTG: Something long, hard and free and in condition in August, tbc since demise of N.W. face of Half Dome.

M - Westway Bouldering; fridge (20-30 degree board) 10 x ~V2.
T - Knee exercises, Shoulder maintenance.
W -  Westway Routes; Aerocap (5-6a). 7-8 minutes on x 5 sets.
T - Shoulder maintenance, knee exercises.
F -  Lucia di lammermoor - not bad: some wacky Regietheater touches and a rather limp conductor but well sung and its a pretty indestructible piece.
S - Swanage Subluminal, with Bridbeast and many others. A lovely day. Led Graunchy Grippers, Stroof, (E1s) and Philatus (E2/3). 
S - Stroll around Kew Gardens. Shoulder maintenance, knee exercises.

For the first time in 6 months what I’m doing feels felt closer to training than rehabilitation. Good to finish Philatus, E3 climbing but you can step into the Severe at several points so not quite the real thing.

Plan: don’t go mad, at least one bouldering or fingerboarding session a week, continue aerocap making it shorter and sharper as get closer to Ceuse trip. Day outside over bank holiday if weather cooperates.

[SA Chris]

Knackering week.

M- first day back after hols. Did a core session in evening.
T - climbed outdoors. Gutted to find fat seep across crux crimp on traverse project. Chalked it up as best I could, had one good attempt, but each time I was getting fingertips damp and fingers slipping off later in problem. Sacked it off and did a new problem up a great rising seam, maybe about 6b (probably harder crux if short?), then another one with some shoddy rock at the bottom, but good higher up, maybe 6a.
W- wall session - felt OK, but heavy, and sore knuckles from hard crimping the day before. Managed a few new problems, and repeated a few others.
T - nothing
F - some weight, packed bag.
S - Flew to London, walked around Greenwich and Canary Wharf in evening.
S- Rowie doing London Marathon. Up far too early, meant I got to watch Women's bouldering finals! Did a long walk from start, missed her in crowds, so walked to Greenwhich, missed here there, train to Tower Bridge, amazingly saw her crossing, then missed her at St Paul's, as she had an amazing finish (positive splits on last 2 5km stretches). 3:51 finish time for first marathon. Mad dash back to hotel and then flight out of City.

Broken and overweight today 13st 13. Back on the no sugar no booze wagon.

[Nibile]

STG - current board project. Go and try the route at least once before Summer.

Mon - board climbing. A bit tired from the Sunday journey. Tried two new problems that I recently set. One is absolutely brilliant. Underclings galore. Ab-wheel, two singles with full stretch pause: first one 1'20", second one 55". Chuffed. Overhead and shoulder carry 2' + 1', very very hard. Weights complex 3'. Heavy session, really pleased. Pat on the back.
Tue - rest.
Wed - board climbing. Good progress on the project despite feeling very tired before starting. Nearly did all the hard section, good going. Snatch complex x2, very tiring.
Thu - climbing class, light campusing. Hill sprints.
Fri - board climbing with friends. Good session, good goes on project, it's hard. Quite high volume.
Sat - rest.
Sun - board climbing. Despite 20 degree and 60% humidity, got colser than ever to climbing project. Good! Just three goes though. Hard. Overhead/shoulder carry 2'+1' x2. Brutal. Weights complex x2. Fast and furious session.

Good overall week. Current project is truly amazing. Figuring Aero/An Pow training out. Still lazy on the Aero Cap. Power is on.

[mr chaz]

STG Mussel Beach
LTG 8b

M.
T. PE on the campus board. This set up is much steeper with feet further back than what I have previously trained on. 6 x 1min on/1min off on large rungs. Max effort to complete this - shocking! Got some work to do...
W. Quick power/strength session working problems on the 45 degree board.
T. PE again. This time alternating between medium and large rungs. Feeling better than Tuesday. I hope to be doing this twice over in a session shortly.
F.
S.
S. Bouldering inside, couldn't afford the fuel to get out anywhere 

[bigironhorse]

M. Tor bouldering - Did weedkiller and cave problem
T. Circuits/intevals at works - 20x 1min on, 2min off. Is this a good strategy?
W. Puntering at yarncliffe, zapple is good.
T. Rest
F. Core workout
S. Stoney bouldering nout new, went to tor and tried Ben's roof a bit.
S. Lawrencefield puntering, cleaned/climbed the highball blunt arete right of gingerbread slab. Really good.

[Three Nine]

T. Circuits/intevals at works - 20x 1min on, 2min off. Is this a good strategy?

That's the dumbest question like eva.

[nik at work]

Nice one Duma 

M-F - work
S - A.M. work, P.M. grab an hour at the training traverse
S - D.I.Y.

Should just cut and paste last week... Going to go on the BM this week (tonight maybe?).