Advice please So the wrist doc came back with: "we don't know what's wrong with your wrist so either you keep climbing or we do surgery to figure it out"! My knee is still a few weeks off being better so I thought I'd start doing some fingerboarding. I've never really fingerboarded before so after some advice.I have the Beastmaker app so was just going to try the easiest (5A) exercises and then go from there, is this a sensible idea or are there any better suggestions?Also, how would you suggest warming up, given I can't go and climb easy routes at the wall with a busted knee?
Get strong for Santa Gadea in June.
Quote from: Coops_13 on April 20, 2016, 03:13:27 pmAdvice please So the wrist doc came back with: "we don't know what's wrong with your wrist so either you keep climbing or we do surgery to figure it out"! My knee is still a few weeks off being better so I thought I'd start doing some fingerboarding. I've never really fingerboarded before so after some advice.I have the Beastmaker app so was just going to try the easiest (5A) exercises and then go from there, is this a sensible idea or are there any better suggestions?Also, how would you suggest warming up, given I can't go and climb easy routes at the wall with a busted knee?I've been in the same boat, ruptured Achilles. I usually do abs to get going, crunches,body lowers, lying cycling and lying leg raises then do some upper body weights and the do finger boarding.
Quote from: Coops_13 on April 20, 2016, 03:13:27 pmAdvice please So the wrist doc came back with: "we don't know what's wrong with your wrist so either you keep climbing or we do surgery to figure it out"! My knee is still a few weeks off being better so I thought I'd start doing some fingerboarding. I've never really fingerboarded before so after some advice.I have the Beastmaker app so was just going to try the easiest (5A) exercises and then go from there, is this a sensible idea or are there any better suggestions?Also, how would you suggest warming up, given I can't go and climb easy routes at the wall with a busted knee?On the wrist business, I haven't read back through all your posts to find out exactly what is going on, however I'm assuming that from your most recent consultation that the MRI was clear and that your waist doc is an orthopaedic surgeon? I'd need a damn good reason to let anyone operate on my wrist. No guarantee surgery will establish what is wrong or make it better. I'd venture that it's more likely to make things worse, especially (and obviously) if no diagnoses is found. I think in general terms that a wrist that is bad enough to need an op shouldn't be climbed on, and a wrist good enough to climb on shouldn't be operated on. However it is impossible for any internet climber to give you decent advice on what to do without a bit more detail, and even then I'd take it with a massive pinch of salt at best, if it's anything other than don't climb on it (which it seems to have been so far). If you are going to climb on it then that has to be your decision and you might make it worse. It all depends on what actually happens when you climb, severity and timing of onset of pain etc. Anyway I don't know if that is useful, may be able to give better advice with more info! P.S. I think getting on a beastmaker with a wrist injury if you've never been on one before is a terrible idea.
Yeah the MRI showed all areas relating to the pain I've been having as being fine, wrist doc is an orthopaedic surgeon. The pain isn't all that bad, I just have downtime from climbing with a damaged knee so I thought I'd use the time to get my wrist looked at. It "popped" last July and bouts of physio, steroid injection etc. have improved but not removed all pain. I can climb on it fine without pain most of the time, the only restrictions are discomfort doing press-ups and while warming up etc. I climbed from January to March without worsening it, but also without it getting fully pain-free. I agree with you about the surgery, definitely staying away from that unless things get badThe advice I was requesting was more about the specific fingerboard routine people would suggest. I've heard the Beastmaker "grades" are sand-bags so was just wondering if there were any other suggestions. Cheers for your thoughts
Quote from: Coops_13 on April 21, 2016, 01:10:32 pmYeah the MRI showed all areas relating to the pain I've been having as being fine, wrist doc is an orthopaedic surgeon. The pain isn't all that bad, I just have downtime from climbing with a damaged knee so I thought I'd use the time to get my wrist looked at. It "popped" last July and bouts of physio, steroid injection etc. have improved but not removed all pain. I can climb on it fine without pain most of the time, the only restrictions are discomfort doing press-ups and while warming up etc. I climbed from January to March without worsening it, but also without it getting fully pain-free. I agree with you about the surgery, definitely staying away from that unless things get badThe advice I was requesting was more about the specific fingerboard routine people would suggest. I've heard the Beastmaker "grades" are sand-bags so was just wondering if there were any other suggestions. Cheers for your thoughtsI had something similar with my wrist but with no specific 'pop'. I do press ups using a set of dumbbells now so no unnatural bending of the wrist. Pain comes back if I don't. Think a focus on core and conditioning sounds like a great idea. If you are getting on a beastmaker in a non supplementary fashion, i.e. the only thing you are doing, and with a bad wrist, be really careful as its a good way to get more injured. Not sure about the specifics of the app.
