[lagerstarfish]

My ego is very fragile curently

I think you are awesome

 

[Wood FT]

to try Breakfast 7A on the assumption it would be in the shade. It wasn't.... Repeated goes at Breakfast but none of us got up it.   

I have only managed to do Breakfast on the 1st or 2nd go every time I've done it, and then only when it's cold

this means I can't remember my beta

I class each ascent as either an Idiot Flash or a Semi-Senile Repeat

Yes well done  - you are awesome or tall or have fat guppying hands or never climbed on it in the sun or something. You are clearly tooo good to be wasting your talent on such lowly graded fare.

don't get me wrong, Shark - I've failed spectacularly on many occasions (especially when it's warm). It's just that when I have succeeded it's gone down quickly and has been cold enough to not be able to fall off

repeated goes have always ended in failure for me

My ego is very fragile curently

come climbing with me Shark, i'll get your ego back up to full inflation or your money back!

[Nibile]

My ego is very fragile curently

As your spelling is.
 
Sorry Shark, I just couldn't resist. No offense, really I know it's a typo but it was too good an occasion!
Now get on The Oak!!! 

[monkoffunk]

STG: Font 7A+, before summer gets hot. (Still time!)
MTG: 1. French 7c+, before 1/1/17. 2. Tick unfinished business list (2/13).
LTG: 1. Cider Soak and Academic, before 1/1/18. 2. Font 7B+, before 1/1/18.

M - Indoor boulders. Intended board session. Sucked into trying hard problems from recent comp. more discipline for rest time, wasn't really training max power which is what I wanted. Stretches.
T - Stretches.
W - Indoor boulders. Hard for hour or so. Better resting. Then flashing easier problems with less rest for an hour or so.
T - Stretches.
F - Drizzle in Bristol. No one wanted to climb routes so bouldering in Avon gorge which was dry. Worked on the Bitter and Twisted RL traverse 7B and the start (crux) of Bulking Agent 7b+. Some progress. Actually got quite into it. Core workout. Stretches. Few cursory hangs on finger board nothing proper.
S - Grandmothers 90th. Big family party. Much cake and wine. Laryngitis coming on.
S - Slighting feeling effects of day before, 7.45 start, managed to convince the girlfriend to go for a stroll. Quick hit to Bourton Coombe for Cut-Throat 7a+ and then Avon Gorge for Paiste 2002 7a. Back home in time for brunch with residual family. Laryngitis fully set in meant thumbs up for take. Quote of the day from Ellie pre first route "I find it hard enough to understand what you want me to do at the best of times." Perfect job though! That's two routes from the unfinished business list. Nice to come back and find them easy. Encouraging!

[duncan]

STG (June): rehab. finger & knee. 6c at Ceuse (Zagreb); sea-cliff E3.
MTG (September): Excalibur, Wendenstock; Rabada-Navarro, Naranjo de Bulnes; sea-cliff E5.
LTG: Something long, hard and free and in condition in August. TBC since the demise of the N.W. face regular route on Half Dome.

M - Knee exercises: squats, step-ups.
T - Westway Bouldering; fridge (20-30 degree board) to ~V2. Hard work.
W - Knee exercises, Shoulder maintenance. Spectacular DOMS!!
T -  Westway Bouldering; oven (vertical to 20 degrees) to ~V3. 
F - Shoulder maintenance, knee exercises. DOMS.
S - Swanage Boulder Ruckle and Subluminal, with Falling Down. First day on rock for 3 and a bit months, first time placing gear for more than 6 months (and considerably longer for FD). We did Finale Groove and a bunch of shorter HVS/VSs at Subluminal. Briefly attempted Philatus (E2 or 3) but dampness and inability to see small runner placements due hopeless near-sight stopped play.
S - Stroll around Highgate Woods.

What a great week. Climbing on real rock, muscles aching more than finger or knee, it’s been some time. Felt pretty good on the sharp-end, albeit very much home territory. Swanage was fun, I’ve not climbed at Subliminal for years, it’s like Wimbledon-by-sea: first time I’ve seen a pashmina at a sea-cliff. I’m thinking of getting one for cheque’s film. Other wildlife sightings included a Peregrine with a smaller bird of prey (FD suggested a kestrel or hobby) in it's claws, which was released or escaped as it flew past Finale Groove.

A couple of unexpected issues: buddy-taping fingers makes manipulating cams awkward and I urgently need bifocals or I won’t be placing any gear smaller than a rock 5! Enjoyed my first date with FD, hopefully he wasn’t too traumatised by our southern ways.

Plan: more of the above.

[36chambers]

I thought Breakfast was desperate for 7a, skin of my teeth kind of stuff.

STG: another 8A before summer??? 
MTG: Yorkshire classics
LTG: 8B

M: Bouldering indoors. Max hang benchmarking session.
T: Antagonistic wall painting/rest
W: Antagonistic wall painting/bouldering indoors. Easy session.
T: Antagonistic wall painting/rest
F: GF was running a university trip to go hiking/kayaking/toproping around Llanberis. Last minute dropout, so I was offered a cheap trip to north Wales (with the proviso I could bring pads but may have to get the bus to the Pass).
S: Cromlech boulders. Foolishly tried to flash Ultimate Retro Party 7b whilst warming up. Numbed up and ripped off going for the finishing jug. Resulting in missing chunks from the tops of my fingers, blood, 10 minutes of severe hot aches and much squirming on the pads. Sent shortly afterwards. Wandered over to Jerry's Roof and was surprised to find no one there (in fact, considering the perfect weather, I only briefly saw two climbers the entire day). Managed Bus Stop 7b+ and Bus Stop Right Hand 7b+, which I thought were both absolutely brilliant. Having two pads and no spotters and having fallen off BS, from the lip, and landing on my ass next to the pads, I didn't even bother trying Jerry's. Excellent day out on my tod.   
S: Went tradding alongside the topropers on some pleasant, obscure buttress. No guidebook or grades, very enjoyable.   

I've only ever been to the Pass in November or February and it's always been bitterly cold and miserable, so it was a very nice change to be lounging in the sun between attempts on a beautiful day .

Having ticked my PE based winter projects and having self-diagnosed myself with piss weak finger strength. I'm thinking of making finger strength my main priority for the foreseeable future.

   

[Muenchener]

I urgently need bifocals or I won’t be placing any gear smaller than a rock 5!

But when you get them, you will also learning very quickly properly look down when placing your feet. But that's something you should be doing anyway, and generally the only time I find varifocals a problem in that respect is when I'm already scrabbling desperately and probably about to fall off.

[duncan]

I urgently need bifocals or I won’t be placing any gear smaller than a rock 5!

But when you get them, you will also learning very quickly properly look down when placing your feet. But that's something you should be doing anyway, and generally the only time I find varifocals a problem in that respect is when I'm already scrabbling desperately and probably about to fall off.

Thank you. That's partially why I'd been avoiding them, good to know the adjustment is . As well as my usual stick-fingers-in-ears and whistle approach to impairment and having to deal with gouging UK opticians

[fried]

Well done Munch (and anyone else who I failed to notice when I skimmed the thread!)

M - Rest
T/W - Nothing. Planned to climb on Tuesday, but couldn't face the journey to the wall, too tired to start BMing after a year break.

Th - Indoors, nice session, mixture of easy stuff and getting stuck into some of the harder 6Bish problems.
F - Rest
S - Nothing
Su - Franchard Cuisiniere - Wasn't sure if it was a good choice with overhight rain, but it turned out fine, dry and still cool. Had a short session on an off-circuit problem and got my 4th 6A of the year https://bleau.info/cuisiniere/17350.html, not a classic, but good fun (and soft). Did some reds and a nice white slab, happy as I'd previously failed on a couple of them.

Managed to entice a group of French to go and try La Superbe https://bleau.info/cuisiniere/21244.html. Even with their encouragement I still couldn't force myself to jump. I needed a good old-fashioned British barracking.  In the mean time we started trying the arete of Comete https://bleau.info/cuisiniere/9947.html which if one of the reason I was in Cuisiniere, too hard for me, but managed to leave the ground (just!), a couple of the French got it which made us all happy. Another lovely day in the forest. Nice to have some company sometimes.

[bigironhorse]

M:Rest
T:Rest
W: UoS vs Hallam Comp - Climbed well came 7th - followed by some circuits
T: Routes at foundry
F:Rest
S:Regretted not going out - rest
S: Stanage - highlights where Help the Young (one of the best problems at the grade on grit?) and Cave Eliminate

Must rest less in future!

[Wood FT]

S: Stanage - highlights where Help the Young (one of the best problems at the grade on grit?)

It's brilliant isn't it?

[tomtom]

S: Stanage - highlights where Help the Young (one of the best problems at the grade on grit?)

It's brilliant isn't it?

Yes

[tommytwotone]

LTG: 7something


M - back to work after Font, nowt
T - nowt
W - Climbing Lab after work - first time there climbing properly and had a good blast. The topout prow thing is fun / took me back to the old skool days of Mile End (though not as high!) and the stuff up to Font 6bish I did was nicely set. Have taken a 10 pass card to give it a road test - as it's far and away the best wall if you've got kids in Leeds I can imagine I'll be doing a bit of climbing a deux with Una.
T - Gym on lunch: sub 1:50 500 row then 100 x swissball rollouts then shoulder complex routine of 4 x 4 x 30 secs on / 30 secs off.
F - nowt
S - nowt
S - nowt - nice day but having a family day in Harrogate. Driving past Cliff bathed in sunshine was a bit gutting.

[filz]

Good effort Muenchener and habrich 

M: nothing. Wrist aching from Sunday.
T: fb max hangs. Good session
W-F: nothing
S: went bouldering for a couple of hours. Windy day with really good conditions. Felt strong.
S: ring dips and pushups, front levers, L-sits

This should have been the last training week in preparation for my small trip to the peak, instead between work, not sleeping well at night and more work I didn't manage to train how I wanted to. Next week I was planning to rest, now I suppose I'll do some training.

[the_dom]

my first 7a-in-a-day, 

Nice! 

[the_dom]

Mon: Lunchtime deadlifts, afternoon bouldering and deadhangs.
Tues: Trail run
Wed: Lunchtime deadlifts and afternoon bouldering. Really good bouldering session - did 14 problems in the 7A - 7B+ range in 75 mins (not all new problems). Totally broken by the end of it.
Thurs: 30 mins on the treadmill
Fri: Massive day - pre-work surf, lunchtime deadhangs and afternoon kettlebell workout.
Sat: And on the saturday, he rested.
Sun: Bouldering (came close to my 7C+ project) and one arm max hangs.

Really, really good week. Wednesday was about as good a day bouldering indoors as I can remember.

[mr chaz]

LTG 8b

M.
T. Foot on campus board session.
W.
T. 45 degree board.
F.
S.
S. LPT. Second try on Mussel Beach. Crux moves felt much easier on this visit. Shocking endurance meant I could only manage to link up to start of the crux. Looking forward to getting back on in a few weeks after some PE training. Went to look at Fish Pie in Pidgeons Cave. Got the beta all wrong, no chance! Need to go back with more pads and a better sequence.

[webbo]

Mon. Turbo 40 mins.
Tue. Out with daughter and grandson looking at houses then babysitting while daughter went for an interview. Too knackered to do anything when I got home.
Wed. Physio.
Thu. Weights and deadhanging extended hangs to 6 secs with 18.75 lbs added and increased weight on repeaters to 20lbs. Later turbo 45 mins.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Physio. Planned to go for a ride but it kept pissing down. Same weights and deadhanging as Thursday. Turbo 50 mins.
Sun. Bike 40.10 miles 2 hrs 22 mins felt ok. Also did this 7 mins faster than pre injury. Family walk 45 mins.

[duncan]

The main event was a completing my first ascent project, the last of six lines on the same wall that I have been working on at Rogues Gallery here over the last couple of years. The possibility that I would never do it has been hanging over me since early in the year, so getting the thing done is a big stress relief and minor confidence boost. It's probably the hardest new route I have put up though I have really no clue on the grade. I have given it .12d (=7c) for now. The key breakthrough - which will mean little to anyone except me and my friend Chris - was discovering that I could abandon a new-school heel-hook-side-pull-match in favour of an old-fashioned stem-and-twist manoeuvre, reducing time spent on the crux sloper. Also pre-brushing the sloper very thoroughly.

Well done! Gripped have reported it.

[Murph]

Evening all, think I'm going to join in if that's ok. I started a training plan last week and accounting for myself on here should help keep me honest. Plus, utterly inspired by the Isaac Buckley video and think I need to channel some of that enthusiasm.

Goals
STG - by June - get the easier things on my wish list ticked, mostly that means 7As such as Early Doors, Sidetrack, Marks, but also a few 6s such as Conan, Nicotine, NTBTA and so on.
MTG - by September - get at least one of the 7Bs on my list ticked, main targets Piss, Kidney, G, Marks.
LTG - regularly crush 7B then who knows...

M- push ups / pull ups / leg raises 96/27/30.
Fingerboard routine:
+24kgs small edge: 6/6/7/6s
35 deg sloper: 3s/10s, +4kgs 4s
45 minute stretches - 4 inches off of touching toes. Major weakness.

T- gentle bouldering lunchtime works. Push/pull/leg 100/27/36. 40 minute stretch.

W- 2 hour works session. Quite good session but felt weak. 115 push. 30 min stretch.

T- gentle bouldering lunchtime works. Push/pull/leg 113/29/36. 30 min stretch.

F- Curbar boulders in the morning. Climbed slacktrack that was a good laugh. Tried deadpoint low more than a few times, should have warmed up properly by doing the easy way first. Also tried bad lip that wont climb itself in a hurry - need to try hard. Aim to get both of them and sidetrack strict before getting distracted with other stuff.
Push/pull/leg 120/29/36. 40 min stretch.

S-
S-

Weight: 67 so a fair bit above my fighting weight of 63.

[rodma]

M: rest
T: campus at the wall. As mentioned in another thread, managed my first ever 1-6, leading with my right only. Close on left, but don't hold it.
W: rest
T: campus at the wall. Best 147s since last October. Cheatily manage (i twisted) 1-5-8 leading with my right and manage 1-6-8.5 leading with my right. Still no left success yet, but feel close.
F: pizza
S: swimming with the wee guy in the morning: never done this on my own before, it's a bit epic.
wall session in the afternoon. Mrs Rodma and I take the wee guy to the wall and take turns to climb. Fits ok no meltdowns from anyone.
S: kyloe in. Apologies to anyone else that was there for the wee guy having random screaming fits. Repeated a few classics and one arse drag. A tiring day out.

A good week this one.

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

[TobyD]

I reckon I'm now ready to film on any seacliff in the country and really psyched to start getting out with keen people! 

i'm keen cheque.

[tomtom]

A good week this one.

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

You've been due one of those for a while. Good stuff.

[nai]

I urgently need bifocals or I won’t be placing any gear smaller than a rock 5!

But when you get them, you will also learning very quickly properly look down when placing your feet. But that's something you should be doing anyway, and generally the only time I find varifocals a problem in that respect is when I'm already scrabbling desperately and probably about to fall off.

Haha, this is so true, problems of the aging climber.  Being on steeper stuff makes things easier, I think my slab climbing days are over.

[shark]

Sometimes you are up too close and can't look down - in my case usually on redpoint so I know where the foothold is already. I did think of reverting to a normal pair for climbing but my brain is scrambled enough already