[shark]

11.1-2

M.
T. Malham in a 5 with Ryan P Mina Andy Cave and Maddy. Not feeling confident or up for it and then further dejected to find the route and a lot of the crag wet. Did Cons x 1 then x2 Then did a bit of solo aiding shenanigans. TR F&EE x 2. Wandered upstairs which was surprisingly dry Ben Moon and Ben Pritch there - Ben just having done Main Overhang some 30 years after doing the second ascent. Had a chat and went back down. Toss up between a play on Predator or Raindogs. Decided on Raindogs as less hassle and less likely to open up cut on fingertip from sunday. Start of Raindogs wet including foothold below first bolt so started bridged using undercut pocket just above. Did it with a rest to the belay. Go1 Lowered down to 2nd bolt and pulled rope and the led to falling off last move. Holds fairly greasy Go 2 led it from undercut pocket to top :-) Go 3 Same point to falling off last move. Go 4 fell going for final pinch. Pretty good performance on Raindogs. PE or AeroPower or AnCap or whatever it is must be improving -
W.
T.AM Was going to go to RHS to try Al-Queda with Toby W but weather was drizzly so met him at eatswood. Ended up trying ER twice 1st go had a footslip whilst holding two crimps on rail at end 2nd go fingers slipped off crimp and finger jam at end Go3 Failed to get through  crux . Went home hustled Tommy out for After School club. Decided on Baslow cos iffy weather but turned out OK. Did some warm ups. Then manned up and did the superb Hot Ziggurty (6C highball) which felt straightforward the way I did it. Joined by Cheque. We all did Balls Out which was a superb 6B arete. Failed on The Ripper 7A+ which was aptly named up as it opened up my tip again which I cut at Ramshaw at weekend.
F.
S. PM Changeable weather. On a whim popped out to Remergence instead of training. Nobody out there bouldering! Ben Moon wandered up with family (can't get away from him) Bit too warm in the sun. Had a few goes wary of opening my tip again. Kept putting hat on sloper in effort to keep the sun off. Dozed in sun then rewarded by it clouding over for a bit. Had a few good goes but didnt quite get the left hand slot. Threatening squall on horizon turned up and walked out in a hailstorm
S. Stanage Pole raising. Limply held stability rope 4. Beautiful day. Then went to Burbage West with the boys to try Breakfast 7A on the assumption it would be in the shade. It wasn't Saw a bright green lizard enjoying the sun on walk in. Repeated goes at Breakfast but none of us got up it.   

Another frustrating week of no Oak action. Going there on tuesday but with my luck will probably be wet again or too hot or most likely both.

[Muenchener]

STG (April) under 80kg. Saw 81 on the scale a couple of times.
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

In which endurance training starts to pay off.

M: Knee & shoulder rehab & general mobility.
T: Bike one hour
W: Shoulder physio
   Wall, Boulderwelt. Had planned to do routes but was too late from work (having spent the morning at the physio) so did a short sharp endurance session of three sets of four circuits, with minimal rest between circuits and ten minutes between sets. Fun? No. The aim isn't fun now, it is fun in the 'jura in May and in Spain in the autumn.
T: Colleague's leaving party. Multiple sets of half-litre curls.
F: am shoulder physio.
   pm half an hour mobility, foam rolling etc.

S: High altitude sport cragging, Leonhardstein. Fantastic day. Huge south facing crag in the Bavarian Alps with immaculate rock quality, mostly user-friendly bolting, idyllic landscape - and a longish, steepish approach which, combined with an iffy weather forecast, meant nobody else was up there today. The weather turned out to be perfect, and we had the entire place to ourselves with no sound except the birds and the river. A good setting for my first 7a-in-a-day, 
To my surprise it would seem that training actually works. The 7a in question had a very tricky technical crux at mid height, followed by ten metres of reasonably straightforward but quite steep climbing without any really good shakeouts (fell on the very last move on my last but one attempt). The ability to keep pressing on on moderately hard moves whilst getting quite pumped turned out to be rather useful, as did the ability to put in four good redpoint attempts in a day.

S: Thalkirchen. Yesterday's demonstration that my endurance training is working was good motivation to spend a rainy Sunday afternoon at the wall putting in a dozen rounds of aerocap on easyish routes.

[nai]

STG - Raindogs, Call of Nature and other Peak WIPS

M - walked in to the Embankment, took one look, walked straight back out and went to the Tor.  Short of time so just 2 burns on Call of Nature.  Worked a better sequence from flake to crux and managed to link through to the sika. Sika itself was wet so didn't want to pull too hard on it and risk losing my tips. Top wall needs work but another short but productive session.
Eve - 10 mins Core

T - AM AeroPow Foot on Campusing, great first set, smashed PB - 5:19 1st rep. Faded quickly set 2.
     Eve - LI AeroCap

W rest

Th - Call of Nature. Pretty minging - damp, cold, still, humid.
Sika still wet but managed to dry it temporarily and link from the throw through the crux to top.
First redpoint attempt ended when i managed to Z-clip at the 3rd Lowered off, took a moment and tried again but didn't make the throw.  Linked post crux (4th bolt) to top, feeling fairly solid on the top wall now. Three good sessions in a row, will be on redpoint next time but have to be prepared for a stinker.

F - nipper off school with tonsillitis so AeroPow boulder workout in garage rather than at Foundry, not as effective but better than nowt.

S - weighted pullups & 3x10 mins LI AeroCap, core

S - rest

Back on Call tomorrow if the weather's playing ball, forecast to be overcast but with a decent breeze on the crag so hopefully connies will be ok

[ashtond6]

Nice lizard picture Shark.
Good effort muencher!!

M - rest
T - the works, didn't climb brilliantly but did some nice problems. Maybe max 6C
W - soloed tegness pinnacle on a walk
T - froggatt after work, did some of the problems on the hairpin boulder then did Isla Grace 4th go. Then bushwhacked to glass slipper but realised 2 shoes from 2 different pairs had fallen out of my pad during the bush walk! So relieved to find them both
F - rest
S - rest
S - worst hangover ever

[csl]

stg: the next month

Lose a bit of weight
Do lots of power endurance training
Boulder in Scotland

mtg: summer

Be fit for Ceuse and climb Privilege

ltg: this year

8a

Mon

Arch - hard boulders and aerocap

A few things up to v6 and some attempts on harder. 5 on 5 off on circuit board

Tue

AnCap + AeroPow

Ancap on the hardest circuit on circuit board
4 x4 on boulders and some foot on campus

Saturday

Portland

Did Englands dreaming at blacknor which was ace, then went to the cuttings and got pretty stumped by hall of mirrors again!

Sunday

Cheddar
Quick warm up at the wave and then went to Pride Evans and did Sing a mean toon kid. Pretty happy with this as i didnt really fancy my chances when i set off, but it felt pretty steady once on the hard climbing. Keen to come back for directoonima

This coming week aim - step up the pe and try and shift some of the pounds i seem to have piled on.

[shark]

Nice lizard picture Shark.

Amazing colours. His/her partner was brown

F - rest
S - rest
S - worst hangover ever

2 days rest for a drinking session ! Impressive preparation 

[Duma]

Great effort Muenchener!

[Duma]

Goals:
Shadow Walker
8A and 8b by next June

69kg. (av.) need to pay more attention to this (mainly by buying less (moor) beer, tricky as I've realised they are based just down the road from tca...)

Body audit: thumb def on the mend this week, still feel it in the background but much happier about it. Seem to have somehow strained/cricked right shoulder/neck last weekend, been pretty uncomfortable this week but making an effort to sleep in sensible position and it's eased off a bit, hopefully a short term thing.

M: TCA lunch, circuits on new undercutty purple on 30 degree board. Sash and Ali were training on the woody (rip) so felt I ought to use a bit of structure - circuit took me 3 minutes if I hesitate on every move, so did 4 reps of that with 3 min rest between reps (failed on penultimate move on 4th rep) then chatting so forgot to reset timer, so had approx 8 minutes rest before last rep.
T: 5 mile run, 42 min.
W: TCA, set new wood circuit on 30 degree board. Came out a fair bit harder (8aish) than I intended (7b+ish), and wasn't that pleased with it but ran out of time. Decent workout wielding the driver and trying sequences though.
T: TCA with daughter after school, not much energy or psych, but managed to repeat fingery white first time on the 15 degree circuit board that took me a few tries last week.
F: nowt, knackered working evening
S: long work day
S: long work day

Back on SW tomorrow, fingers crossed it's dry and a week of not much training doesn't have too negative an impact.

[lagerstarfish]

to try Breakfast 7A on the assumption it would be in the shade. It wasn't.... Repeated goes at Breakfast but none of us got up it.   

I have only managed to do Breakfast on the 1st or 2nd go every time I've done it, and then only when it's cold

this means I can't remember my beta

I class each ascent as either an Idiot Flash or a Semi-Senile Repeat

[shark]

to try Breakfast 7A on the assumption it would be in the shade. It wasn't.... Repeated goes at Breakfast but none of us got up it.   

I have only managed to do Breakfast on the 1st or 2nd go every time I've done it, and then only when it's cold

this means I can't remember my beta

I class each ascent as either an Idiot Flash or a Semi-Senile Repeat

Yes well done  - you are awesome or tall or have fat guppying hands or never climbed on it in the sun or something. You are clearly tooo good to be wasting your talent on such lowly graded fare.

[cha1n]

Goals:
Shadow Walker
8A and 8b by next June

Such conservative goals Duma, you could easily do 8b and 8A this year?!

[TobyD]

Another frustrating week of no Oak action. Going there on tuesday but with my luck will probably be wet again or too hot or most likely both.

It was bone dry today, and not supposed to rain tomorrow.

[Duma]

Goals:
Shadow Walker
8A and 8b by next June

Such conservative goals Duma, you could easily do 8b and 8A this year?!

Well I'll try, but I'm forty next summer so that's the (arbitrary, self imposed) deadline!

[nik at work]

M-F - work
S - work a.m. grab a p.m. hour at the training traverse while the big parasite is at a party.
S - emergency diy

Another classic week. Surprisingly good performance on Saturday but not enough.

[nai]

Nice one Muenchener    sounds brilliant

[T_B]

84.2Kg

M - School lunch. 10 x 13 moves of pink, with 2 mins rest (shorter rest than last week).
T - Foundry lunch. LI Aero. P.M. Ran home (7.9Km)
W - Ran to work.
T - P.M. Burbage South boulders after some debate, ended up being pretty windy and v good conditions. Did some warming up then tried Little Pig. Really cool problem. Worked a sequence and Dave quickly sent. I managed to get the mono twice but couldn't claw it in. One to come back for.
F - Lunch run 8km. Over the top of the ski slope. Sort of not a bad lunch run but it feels pretty creepy up there. Semi bonk on the way back along Penistone rd.
S -
S - A.M. Ran 3Km to collect wife's car from next to Picture House Social. Dithered about whether to run or climb. In the end headed out at 6pm for planned 3 x Derwent edge run. Saw 3 people in 2 hours. Absolutely stunning up there, I flippin love Derwent edge. 15.7Km / 803m of ascent. Even checked out some of the bouldering which I'll definitely come back for in the summer.

Have run over 40Km this week, so will have an easy week next week and plan to climb Thurs pm again. Enjoying climbing without the pressure of expectation and being on a massive upwards trajectory running-wise. Middle age is here!

[moose]

Another frustrating week of no Oak action. Going there on tuesday but with my luck will probably be wet again or too hot or most likely both.

It was bone dry today, and not supposed to rain tomorrow.

Aye, amazing how much drier Malham was this weekend compared to Thursday - when it was gopping (especially surprising given heavy rain on Friday).  Someone did the Oak on Saturday so it's presumably in nick - get to it Shark!  Just hope for some cloud - Saturday was primo but on Sunday the sun made the upper tier routes feel a bit painful.

[Nibile]

STG - go try the route at least once before Summer.

Mon - board climbing. Very little volume, good intensity. Did a couple of new problems and set a cool project that should be doable even now. A couple of laps on the circuit, average, nothing brilliant.
Tue - rest.
Wed - FOA, max speed pull ups, front levers. Tried to figure out some training for the route as suggested by Tommy. Cool. Dumbbell complex Tabata, overhead carry Tabata. Yes!
Thu - climbing class. Feet on campusing 4' x2. Hill sprints.
Fri - dumbbell complex, overhead carry. Very tired.
Sat - rest.
Sun - 340 km of turns and mountain passes with my motorcycle. Exhausting but great.

A few strange weeks as of late. Putting in good trainin but also some proper partying, must address this. Temps steadily rising, very hard to keep going especially on the board. Let's see how things go. Hard to mix climbing and weight training at the moment because both hammer the forearms pretty heavily.

[Coops_13]

STG: Heal knee, wrist, fingers....
MTG: Get solid on 7B/+ boulder and 7b/+ sport
LTG: 8A & 8a

M:
T:
W: MRI Arthogram on wrist, checking to see if my TFCC is fucked...
T: Physio for knee
F:
S:
S:

Almost recovered from virus, physio exercises going well for knee. Physio said knee was in good shape and I hadn't lost any muscle really! Seeing wrist doc later today, fingers crossed I don't need surgery for this!

[tomtom]

Effort Muenchener..

M: Beastmaker for first time in ages. Trashed after three sets of ((7on3off x 6) x 3) - even using large holds..

Tu: Beastmaker again - only managed two sets... Clearly not training regularly on the BM makes you weaker on the BM...

We: Work AM - then dashed to Curbar on way back to Manchester. Part of my reason for BMing was to get some basic strength back to get Gorilla Warfare/Early doors done (at last..). Anyway - headed straight for the pit and faffed around on GW and Early doors for a bit... My problem with both these problems is getting to sharing the two final wall crimp/holds efficiently.. I always try and do it low (given up on Lagers toe method) and thug accross it - but the final moves really sap whatever power I have. Someone suggested whacking a heel on the slopey rail (the one Jihad comes from) and having previously thought "thats a stupidly high heel" - it worked and those moves felt (in comparison) piss. Next go, I did GW - but dabbed (teeny one) on a thick mat someone had left on the block GRR.. Big rest and 20 min later it went. About bloody time, been 6 years or more I've been trying that silly problem...

Then set about Early doors (that I've done the top of a few times) but the sloper just felt horrible, and despite others doing it my had just squirmed about on it and I didnt have confidence to commit. Still - came and did what I wanted to, so left happy.

Th: Manc Depot.

Fri: Long day out in the field with Work, lots of driving

Sa: Only fancied a short session, so met up with R-Man at Wilton 4. Discovered the 7C+ think I felt close to doing was desparate (well the next move I'd not got to was!) but worked and sent a new 7A SS arete with R-Man.. nice problem and only a slightly ironic name



Su: Helsby - again only wanted a smallish day out. Warmed up in the woods - then headed to Barrel Buttress to play on RonB'sMoustache.. was no-where on that, seemed to have some sort of core failure.. but did a really cool eliminate on Harolds Wall next door.. thin holds and balancy near slab padding...

[Wood FT]

Another frustrating week of no Oak action. Going there on tuesday but with my luck will probably be wet again or too hot or most likely both.

It was bone dry today, and not supposed to rain tomorrow.

Just hope for some cloud - Saturday was primo but on Sunday the sun made the upper tier routes feel a bit painful.

The cloud came yesterday but with it came bitter numbness, I'm not complaining though. The cat walk felt much better in comparison

[cheque]

Nice one Muenchener! 

W - soloed tegness pinnacle on a walk

Oh yeah, that's my kind of Power Club entry. 

STG (next month or so)- get big wall fitness required for making film. Done well in 2.5 weeks- probably at medium-wall fitness currently.
MTG (by late Autumn 2016)- Finish film while making progress towards LTG.
LTG (by end Nov 2019)- 8a.

M- Rest. Upped the ante to 15kg in schoolbag this week.

Tu- Walk out to Stanage from Redmires- took 22kg, soloed two super-easy routes when there.

W- Rest.

Th- Baslow with Shark and son. Did the Balls Test- first 6B (guide says 6B+, seems generous though) since before month-long break. Good to climb with other people again- I love pottering around on my own but there are so many factors in that which (for me at least) mean I don't climb well and lose confidence.

F- Rest. Didn't even carry weight around.

Sa- Solo seacliff logistics mission to secret location- let's call it "Crag G"  Very different to last visit- physically hard work but not overwhelmed by it this time, ticked my objective for the day within the time I'd hoped. Totally enjoyed the exposed abseiling/ aiding/ jugging too. The power of preparation! Sunny day with 3+ teams on main cliff, (at least one of whom were pretty surprised when a guy with tons of gear hanging off him abbed in above them  ) got sunburnt.

Su- Putting Stanage Pole up. Basically a brisk walk and a bit of pushing. Beautiful weather all day but just too knackered to climb- sore from head to toe and falling asleep all afternoon.

Sacrificed climbing for film prep work this weekend- it will be worth it in the end. I reckon I'm now ready to film on any seacliff in the country and really psyched to start getting out with keen people! 

[Nibile]

Oh, and nice one Muench! 

[lagerstarfish]

to try Breakfast 7A on the assumption it would be in the shade. It wasn't.... Repeated goes at Breakfast but none of us got up it.   

I have only managed to do Breakfast on the 1st or 2nd go every time I've done it, and then only when it's cold

this means I can't remember my beta

I class each ascent as either an Idiot Flash or a Semi-Senile Repeat

Yes well done  - you are awesome or tall or have fat guppying hands or never climbed on it in the sun or something. You are clearly tooo good to be wasting your talent on such lowly graded fare.

don't get me wrong, Shark - I've failed spectacularly on many occasions (especially when it's warm). It's just that when I have succeeded it's gone down quickly and has been cold enough to not be able to fall off

repeated goes have always ended in failure for me

[shark]

to try Breakfast 7A on the assumption it would be in the shade. It wasn't.... Repeated goes at Breakfast but none of us got up it.   

I have only managed to do Breakfast on the 1st or 2nd go every time I've done it, and then only when it's cold

this means I can't remember my beta

I class each ascent as either an Idiot Flash or a Semi-Senile Repeat

Yes well done  - you are awesome or tall or have fat guppying hands or never climbed on it in the sun or something. You are clearly tooo good to be wasting your talent on such lowly graded fare.

don't get me wrong, Shark - I've failed spectacularly on many occasions (especially when it's warm). It's just that when I have succeeded it's gone down quickly and has been cold enough to not be able to fall off

repeated goes have always ended in failure for me

My ego is very fragile curently