[boxmonkey]

There's a thread over on UKC titled "world class UK routes". Started, i think, by some people planning a UK trip and who wanted advice on specific routes to tick.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=638225

The thread got quite interesting. Views were mixed. Some people claiming the UK didn't have specific world class routes, but it did have routes and crags you'd visit for the history. Or a visit was worthwhile to experience such a huge variety of rock in such a small space.

I just wondered what the view from the bouldering side is. Without changing their question at all - what are the UK's world's class bouldering problems and spots? Do people travel to the UK specifically for bouldering? Where do they go? The Peak presumably. Do people get beyond the peak when they visit?

I don't know. I foun the UKC thread interesting although I agree with most of the commentators - box ticking UK routes kind of misses the point of coming to the Uk. Maybe the same is true of bouldering...

[submaximal gains]

As a simple answer to a simple question how's this:

Niccolò Ceria has said The Storm (7B+) is world class, and in general peak grit is a world class area; he's been pretty harsh about areas he's thought were overhyped (grampians, bishop) so I'd take his opinion.

https://www.instagram.com/p/9iz0TeM00x/

[dave]

As a simple answer to a simple question how's this:

Niccolò Ceria has said The Storm (7B+) is world class, and in general peak grit is a world class area; he's been pretty harsh about areas he's thought were overhyped (grampians, bishop) so I'd take his opinion.

https://www.instagram.com/p/9iz0TeM00x/

So good he chalked the fuck out of the top hold.

[Muenchener]

Malc's Arete?

Doesn't have to be world class hard to be world class class.

[sxrxg]

Off the top of my head for the UK I would rate these problems as good as anything I have done/tried abroad:

- Crescent Arete, Stanage
- Matterhorn Arete, Cliff
- Caseg Groove, Caseg
- Rouses Wall, Carrock
- Picnic Sarcastic, Bowderstone
- Malcs Arete, Torridon
- Tetris, Roaches
- Jerrys Roof, Pass

I have also admired these lines and can see that they must be world class...

- Careless Torque, Stanage
- Cypher, Slipstones

[turnipturned]

I think we have a lot of World class boulders in the UK. But we don't have any world class venues. The Problem is that we don't have a concentrated area/ venue of world class problems like magic wood, font, joes valley etc. Therefore, for someone planning a trip they would probably have to do a lot of travelling.

There is also a lot of 'history' in the UK. Which often means the history is far greater than the boulder problems. For instance; the Ace. (Which I personally think is a load of junk)

[Fiend]

 

Scotland:

Mestizo - most other stuff at Dumby is not even national class in line. I assume Sabotage would qualify tho

LDV / Monkey Spanking / Spanking The Monkey - world class lines, world class problems, not a world class setting

Gale Force

Romancing The Stone

Brin Done Before

Torridon - world class venue / setting, not just for Malc's slopey lunging above a bog


Loads of other national class stuff Ruthven Farr etc etc but not distinctive enough to be world class.



Edit: I am thinking along the lines of "if this problem was transported to Font would people be queuing to do it / posting endless videos of them dabbing on it")

[tim palmer]

I think we have a lot of World class boulders in the UK. But we don't have any world class venues. The Problem is that we don't have a concentrated area/ venue of world class problems like magic wood, font, joes valley etc. Therefore, for someone planning a trip they would probably have to do a lot of travelling.

I would disagree with you slightly, I think the main areas in yorkshire have enough to provide an amazing trip with a tour guide and miraculous weather. 

There is also a lot of 'history' in the UK. Which often means the history is far greater than the boulder problems. For instance; the Ace. (Which I personally think is a load of junk)

but…..

High fidelity and Ben's groove sit start at caley are stone-cold world class problems.

Heaven in your hands are brandrith is also good as anything anywhere I have ever been.

Brad pitt must also be there I think.

Not sure I would include matterhorn arete or jerry's roof tbh.

[JamieG]

My 2p.

I think to be world class it needs three key properties:

Good setting (e.g. views, atmosphere, etc.)
Inspringing line (e.g. I think it has to look impressive)
Interesting moves

(a bit of history too doesn't hurt)

Lots of problems have one or two of them but very few manage all three.

For example, 'not to be taken away' is often quoted as one of grit's best lines. I think it is in a great setting (see the number of photos taken of it!) an impressive line, but i don't think it climbs very well. A very frustrating first move, that a lot of people french past and then a bit of a slog up the ramp (personal opinion). Compare that to Crescent arete which is in the same setting and equally impressive looking, but climbs really well too.

[Will Hunt]

I think to be world class it needs three key properties:

Good setting (e.g. views, atmosphere, etc.)
Inspringing line (e.g. I think it has to look impressive)
Interesting moves

 

we don't have a concentrated area/ venue of world class problems like magic wood, font, joes valley etc. Therefore, for someone planning a trip they would probably have to do a lot of travelling.

 

Thinking about problems in Font which are regarded as classics of the area (and thus therefore achieving world class status), there's plenty of problems in Yorkshire and the Peak which can match them in terms of quality of movement and line, but in Font there is just a higher density of world class problems. You've got so many crags and boulders that are just minutes drive from each other.


I think Not To Be Taken Away is world class at it's grade. If you're climbing much harder than you need to be, the top moves can feel unbalanced compared to the cruxy start, however I distinctly remember being tested by those upper moves when I first did it.


Some thoughts from Yorkshire:
McNab - though probably not the sit? The first move to the undercut isn't particularly nice I don't think.
Hen Arete, Bird Flu, and to a lesser extent Hen Pecked at Hen Stones probably just miss out because of their short size but the quality of movement and location are hard to surpass.
Underhand? Is the setting a bit grim? Almslciff isn't really that nice is it?
Trust
Suavito
The Gemenid Trail


I might be getting a bit carried away here and just listing very good problems in Yorkshire 

[r2d2]

 Suavito? Not sure about that being 'world class' even local class compared to similarly graded local problems like Sean's arête on Curbar. 

[Will Hunt]

Really? The moves are flawless in their genre, its a very strong line, its in a very pleasant location. The only thing that could possibly improve it would be to get rid of the unpleasant boulder on the left.

[tim palmer]

Underhand isn't even the best problem of the grade at almscliff

[Wood FT]

Suavito? Not sure about that being 'world class' even local class compared to similarly graded local problems like Sean's arête on Curbar. 

At least Suavito tops out

[Wood FT]

For example, 'not to be taken away' is often quoted as one of grit's best lines. I think it is in a great setting (see the number of photos taken of it!) an impressive line, but i don't think it climbs very well. A very frustrating first move, that a lot of people french past and then a bit of a slog up the ramp (personal opinion). Compare that to Crescent arete which is in the same setting and equally impressive looking, but climbs really well too.

+1

and this has nothing to do with the fact I can't even get off the floor on NTBTA

[Footwork]

Yeah underhand is a wank choice for a 'world class' list. Compared to Gargantoit sit which is similar grade and style of climbing it's just not as good. I think the problem is spoilt by having no definitive finishing holds and top out. World class lines should have just one way to the top, no extensions!

In comparison

Fluide came to my mind. Perfect block of rock. Lovely lines (twin cracks that run out) followed by one undercut that has to be used to reach the top. Setting is lovely when the bluebells are out and you're completely alone which is oft the case.

[Footwork]

Suavito? Not sure about that being 'world class' even local class compared to similarly graded local problems like Sean's arête on Curbar. 

At least Suavito tops out

  One of the best feelings you'll get in climbing is topping out. I hate dropping off

[tim palmer]

For example, 'not to be taken away' is often quoted as one of grit's best lines. I think it is in a great setting (see the number of photos taken of it!) an impressive line, but i don't think it climbs very well. A very frustrating first move, that a lot of people french past and then a bit of a slog up the ramp (personal opinion). Compare that to Crescent arete which is in the same setting and equally impressive looking, but climbs really well too.

I quite like that awkward first move, because when you do it, you feel you have to press on to the top even though it is quite scary and I don't think the climbing is entirely trivial.

[Andy F V2.0]

I think to be world class it needs three key properties:

Good setting (e.g. views, atmosphere, etc.)
Inspringing line (e.g. I think it has to look impressive)
Interesting moves

(a bit of history too doesn't hurt)

Lots of problems have one or two of them but very few manage all three.

Horror Arete at the Kebs ticks all those boxes.

[Will Hunt]

Underhand isn't even the best problem of the grade at almscliff

I haven't that much experience at the Cliff at that grade. What would you promote over Underhand? I think the climbing is really good, it's just the enclosed location, and the general setting of Almscliff that I'm struggling with. I know it feels like a comfortable home to lots of locals but I think if I was arriving from outside the area I might think "What a dump", in the same way you might think that about Bas Cuvier.

I think the problem is spoilt by having no definitive finishing holds and top out.

I don't get this. You hit a really obvious jug and then you continue in exactly the same line up the edge of the roof via about one or two easy juggy moves (which are actually quite fun). Underhand Extension could never be world class but the normal finish to Underhand is entirely logical.

Horses for courses obviously!



Fluide. I had considered it but had ruled it out on the basis that its a one-move-wonder dyno. Not the stuff that the finest problems are made of. Its a great problem, but not quite world class.

[andyd]

Underhand;
Fluide; more than just a one move wonder

[cheque]

I think the climbing is really good, it's just the enclosed location, and the general setting of Almscliff that I'm struggling with. I know it feels like a comfortable home to lots of locals but I think if I was arriving from outside the area I might think "What a dump", in the same way you might think that about Bas Cuvier.

The opposite's true I'd think- familiarity breeds contempt and my experience is that locals are always down on their home crags while visitors from other countries see the good parts as far more significant than the bad.

As a hopeless romantic I like to think that the visitors are right. 

[Will Hunt]

Fluide; more than just a one move wonder

Well. It does only have one tricky move on it 

[tim palmer]

Underhand isn't even the best problem of the grade at almscliff

I haven't that much experience at the Cliff at that grade. What would you promote over Underhand? I think the climbing is really good, it's just the enclosed location, and the general setting of Almscliff that I'm struggling with. I know it feels like a comfortable home to lots of locals but I think if I was arriving from outside the area I might think "What a dump", in the same way you might think that about Bas Cuvier.

pistol whip, stu's left, the keel, slopey traverse, topcat traverse etc

I don't know why you think almscliff isn't a nice, I think it is lovely, amazing views, it is green etc.   

I think the real standout problem at the cliff is chiasmata, really good quality rock, a bit spicy, the only real down side about it is it doesn't top out.   

[Fiend]

Most Almscliff problems aren't even Yorkshire-class, let alone national class, people only climb there because it's insta-drying and roadside  .

Edit, fucking hell just checked out what Underhand is. Surely that's not the best problem within at 30m radius let alone at Almscliff